Racer Xterra - '03 SE X-TRA XTERRA 1 Ton Project

Racer Xterra

Bought an X
Location
Southern UT
Some of this is a re-post from my Ronin entry.... But this is the "New & Improved" version which will contain recent upgrades and activity:

April 2011

The surgery has begun
IMG_1598.jpg


Future doner R200 W/ ARB ready for new home
IMG_1593.jpg


The Twins - D60 front & 70 for the rear. They are waiting patiently here for the tubes to be chopped down to comply w/ UT vehicle regs...

P1010192.jpg


Update - The truck is ready to roll..... I'm currently going through a shakeup period to make sure all the important parts stay in place.

Here's a couple pics from the hills near my house....

IMG_1694.jpg


And another from the front...

IMG_1695.jpg


Here are some of the details thus far:

The front axle is a Ford D60 late ball joint model with customized high steer arms and brake setup by Frost Inc. Shafts are 35 spline w/ custom cut Dutchman long inner. Other shafts in front are stock Ford F350. The gearing is 5.13's with an ARB at the heart of the pumpkin. Protecting this investment is a massive steel diff cover fabed up by Ruff Stuff Specialties.

IMG_1699.jpg


Rear axle is a Dana 70 also equipped w/ ARB & 5.13's. Rear shafts are 35 spline custom axles from Dutchman and are also protected by a Ruff Stuff bomb proof diff cover.

IMG_1701.jpg


Both axles have been narrowed 6 ¼ inches to comply w/ local vehicle codes and remain street-able.

4 wheel disk brake setup w/ Caddy mid 70's calipers and parking brake. Chevy master cylinder setup is based upon Houdini's setup.

Shocks are Rancho 9000XL in back w/ Rancho Pro coil overs in front. The coil over selection is based upon Alpine Spirit's setup. Shock adjustments are controlled from in cab via wireless controller.

Rear is leaf sprung w/ 63 in Chevy springs & All Pro Johnny Joint setup. Spring selection was decided upon based on post by Ryan.

Tie rod and drag link ends are 1980 1 Ton Chevy.

Steering box has been moved forward 4 inches to make room for 37 inch tires.

IMG_1697.jpg


Custom High Steer for ball joint axle -

IMG_1698.jpg


Installation and all custom fabrication including high steer arms machined into ball joint axle & brake system done by Frost Inc of Washington, UT (RIP JESSE 1952 - 2012)

Pics from the initial shakedown run...

Stock front drive shaft with Tom Woods SuperFlex Ujoint
IMG_1706.jpg


Bottoms up!
IMG_1728.jpg


Modified front crossmember

IMG_1708.jpg


Antiwrap bar
IMG_1718.jpg


So Close - One issue folks will run into when SAS'ng
P1010002.jpg


Sometimes you need a good reason to upgrade parts..... This happened about a year into my SAS

I managed to break my drivers side outer stub shaft the other weekend while wheeling on the Maze trail outside of St George UT. Unfortunately it also destroyed the hub as well. There goes my money saved by not buying half shafts fund.

Broken30splineSpicerouter.jpg


Upgraded my outer stub shafts to Yukon 35 spline and also picked up a set of Yukon's low profile heavy duty lockout hubs. They are very stout looking and a lot more tucked away then the Spicer units they are replacing. They do not stick out much further then the drive flanges I've seen on the rock buggies out here.

YukonHeavyDutyLowProfileLockoutHubs.jpg


I checked in my previous posts on other forums, but couldn't find anything regarding my hydro assist. Soon after my SAS was complete I realized it was going to be a task to run the steering with the new 37's in place. After checking out some of the other rigs here in Southern UT, I decided to have a PSC hydro assist installed.

photo8.jpg


The shop that installed the steering assist also created a rock shield directly off the axle tube. So far the sheild has held up to the abuse I've thrown at it, as many of the hits would have easily damaged the cylinder.

photo9.jpg


This is one of my pre SAS mods... Dual Odyssey battery setup installed by Kodiak Industries:

photo10.jpg


View from the cockpit

photo11.jpg


The following mods are visible in this pic.

Rail shifter - Bottom center
Yaesu FT8800 - Top center
Warn offroad light controller - Above auto shift lever
B & M Tranny fluid tem guage - Above T-Case shifter
Kodiak Dual Battery control - Directly to the right of B & M guage
Suckdown winch control (Plan B) - Directly below fuel guage
Levo Guage - Below climate controls
Pioneer Radio / Touchsreen - Below levo guage
Winch disconnect button - Not visable in pic, but to the right of B & M guage
Cobra CB connection - To the right of Levoguage
Speaker for ham radio output - To the right of rail shifter
ABS light constant on Mod.... - Above fuel guage

37x13.5x17 Toyo Mud Country & 17" Spyderlocks for the trails.....

PlanB_Down.jpg


Allthough the BFG KM 2's worked great on the IFS setup, they did not hold up very well with the extra weight of 1 tons axles... I kept getting slashes on the sidewalls. The Toyo tires are a much heavier tire, so I'm hoping they'll hold up to the abuse.
b9b0701c-a9f4-43cd-a09e-ac75bbfcc3d2.jpg


These pics are from the Plan B trail in Sand Hollow / St. George, UT

Here's some pics/info from my suck-down winch setup

The winch is an inexpensive Milemarker ATV winch mounted on the inside of a Shrockworks bumper skid. I swapped out the steel cable w/ some synthetic line I had left over after I replaced the line for my main winch.

ATVWINCH.jpg


The tension plate that covers the line also acts as a debris shield.

Here's a view of the the mounting bolts from the front of the skid - The 2 center bolts secure the winch in place.

MountingBolts.jpg


And the view from underneath....

Mountcrossbarreturnspring.jpg


The line feeds over a crossbar that connects to the frame on both sides. The crossbar keeps the line out of the steering components. The spring keeps the cable, when slack, from going into the pulleys. The opposite end of the line connects to a mount at the top of diff housing via a carabiner.

RX
 
Last edited:

rokdaddy

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
New Mexico
Nice work, Racer. I knew that you were running Danas but I had no idea that you went with those monsters! Glad to see that you finally made it over.See you around.-Rok
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
hm.....nice mini-monster truck ;)

how much did the narrowing cost you?
also, as a strange side question, when you narrow the axle, and have to go to narrowed axle shafts, doesn't that weaken them?
 

Racer Xterra

Bought an X
Location
Southern UT
Thanks for the comments folks

dhyde79 - It cost me $350 to narrow both the axles. So far I haven't had any issues with narrowed axle housings. They hold up to my abuse pretty well.

I updated the thread with some more info....

RX
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
housings I wouldn't worry about, I was asking about the actual axle shafts, after all, if they're cut and welded, that *should* create a weak point....
 

J Everett

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Houma, LA
This is an absolute monster SAS. Thank gobble for the 5.13 gears. The VG33 would have a hell of time with taller gearing and that much additional weight. Great work all around.


housings I wouldn't worry about, I was asking about the actual axle shafts, after all, if they're cut and welded, that *should* create a weak point....

He ordered his shafts custom built to match the length of the shortened housings. No weld. Even if they weren't custom ordered, you just shorten the inner shafts and respline the end, never weld it back together.
 

rokdaddy

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
New Mexico
^^This^^

Welding axle shafts is bad for a bunch of reasons. Precision (straightness), temper, and metallic crystaline structure are the big issues that most folks are concerned with.

-Rok
 
Last edited:

Roadwarrior

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Another thing, I noticed that you comp cut your rear corners. I am very interested in how you did that slash, did you face any difficulties when cutting them.

I have a possible secret mod that I want to complete, but it requires comp cutting the corners (or at least it might look a little better that way).
 

Racer Xterra

Bought an X
Location
Southern UT
dhyde79 - J EVERETT is correct. Just the housings were narrowed. Custom length shafts can be ordered for not too much extra from axle manufacturers. For this project we used http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/ . So far these axles have been running strong.

Roadwarrior - The corners were a little tougher then I planned on. Several seams come together in the area I removed. If not sealed properly you'll run into all kinds of leaks. I ended up using some industrial strength roofing compound, and lots of it.

RX
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
He ordered his shafts custom built to match the length of the shortened housings. No weld. Even if they weren't custom ordered, you just shorten the inner shafts and respline the end, never weld it back together.

gotcha, that's what I was hoping....and wondering on the costs of...

^^This^^

Welding axle shafts is bad for a bunch of reasons. Precision (straightness), temper, and metallic crystaline structure are the big issues that most folks are concerned with.

-Rok

that's exactly what my worries were...same reason I don't like the idea of chopping a driveshaft and re-welding together....
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
dhyde79 - J EVERETT is correct. Just the housings were narrowed. Custom length shafts can be ordered for not too much extra from axle manufacturers. For this project we used http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/ . So far these axles have been running strong.

Roadwarrior - The corners were a little tougher then I planned on. Several seams come together in the area I removed. If not sealed properly you'll run into all kinds of leaks. I ended up using some industrial strength roofing compound, and lots of it.

RX

good to hear.... thanks for the info on the shafts, and, sounds like LOADS of fun on the cutting....
 

xterraminator

Wheeling
Location
Maple Ridge,BC
Sweet build! Keep the pics coming, thanks for sharing. Not sure why but I never knew about this post before. I will keep an eye on this.

Sent from Samsung Note 2 using Tapatalk
 

CaptainMorgan_SOS

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Alamogordo, NM
Nice! I am actually picking up a steering box and ram from Aaron (Penski) so I can do the hydro assist after GONE. Would have liked to do it before, but things just didn't work out.
 

Racer Xterra

Bought an X
Location
Southern UT
Build updated with dual battery pic.....

Thanks for the comments folks!

Captain - Penski does nice work, so you should be happy with the hydro assist....

RX
 

SASXA

First Fill-Up (of many)
How do you like your rail shifter? I was looking into the baja shifter personally but I don't think space will permit with now having 4 sticks to shift already. Also how did you wire it up, on a switch to go between the two different modes or is that your main shifter now?
 

Racer Xterra

Bought an X
Location
Southern UT
Hello SASXA - I like the rail shifter, however it is a little on the small side. I have it wired up so that I can switch between auto and manual mode. In the picture you can find the switch by looking to the left of the main shift button, I have it tucked away in that little cubby hole. I'll try to post a better pic of that area later on.

RX
 

Racer Xterra

Bought an X
Location
Southern UT
The PLAN B switch....While being higher off the ground has it's advantages, it also makes it a little unsettling in off camber situations. For this I installed a suck down winch (ATV). The winch sucks the front of the vehicle down to the axle and lowers the COG for the front end.

RX
 

Racer Xterra

Bought an X
Location
Southern UT
I came back from gone w/ a stretched transfer case chain. Doh! :dead: I'm hoping to find an Atlas at a reasonable price, but until then, I've ordered a replacement chain from GONE sponsor Boulder Nissan. I apparently ordered the last chain in Nissan's US inventory, so be careful and don't stretch your chain out until their able to replenish stock!

Updated main post with Wheel & Tire information.....

RX
 
Last edited:

xterraminator

Wheeling
Location
Maple Ridge,BC
"Sucks down the front of the vehicle" with a winch that's very cool. I'd like to see that operate in real life. Could see that coming in real handy.

Sent from Samsung Note 2 using Tapatalk
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
Hello folks - I've been pretty busy with work, but when I get some time I'll take some pics of the suck-down setup and make this my next update. RX

Indeed...

Buddy said his had less flex than he'd hoped, but, if memory serves he ran a tiny winch from inside the frame on driver side down to a pully straight down, then diagonal to a crossmember mounted pully dead center of frame width, back down to one spaced equally over to match the first then up to a hard mount inside the frame spaced away to match the winch. Result was tons of fine tuned height control, no lateral pull from the winch, and it would flex still while sucked down, but, he has to play out a bit to get full droop when he wants it...
 
Top