Okay. So. The cross member that the torsion bar adjusters are sitting in. That flat surface all the way across the truck is 0 degrees. As you loosen and tighten the bolt that runs through the adjuster it changes the angle of that adjuster relative to the cross member.
Tightening the bolt lifts the adjuster up resulting in more rotational force directly on the lower control arm. This is transferred to downward force and lifting the truck up.
Over time and because of weight, the torsion bars lose their rotational resistance and sag. Eventually you'll tighten up that adjuster so much that it essentially bottoms out on the cross member and can't be tightened anymore. When this happens, you have to reindex the torsion bars. Essentially set them back to their factory tension. Due to the sag, that will have changed relative to the splines on the bar itself.
So when you pull the torsion bar out entirety and remove the adjuster you put an angle finder on the adjuster and hold it at 40° inside the slot in the cross member. That means that the wing of the adjuster at a 40° angle relative to the 0° of the cross member.
While holding it at that 40° point, reinstall the torsion bar so that there is no pressure on the adjuster and the bar locked into both sets of splines (on the control arm and the adjuster). Once the bar is in the splines, feed the bolt up through the adjuster, put the nut on the back and start tightening.
When the adjuster is back flush with the cross member, you should be at roughly stock height. From there you can crank them even more to get the lift required for the PML. Keeping in mind that you want ½" of gap on the upper bump stop to allow for down travel of the suspension. You may not get a 1½“ of lift. Everyone's mileage varies with that. But the bump stop gap is important.
