Fuses & Relays

[TKDx00]

I'm having trouble finding any fuses above 80a. Looking for a 150 - 200a plus holder to put between the Second Battery and the fuse block for the additional electrical stuff. Local Auto parts don't carry nor so called electrical houses (store).

Also, Anyone use circuit breakers instead of fuses (in general usage)? I read about one (200a) that's used between batteries instead of a fuse.

Lastly... MODS...if there's a general thread that covers fuses/relays that I didn't see, I guess this could be moved there.

 

[Muadeeb]

Going that large, you're in the fusable link area, not just a plain push in fuse. Here's a link to a 'ANL' style fusable link and holder for $20
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-20

 

[xterror04]

Moved to the electronics section....

And like muadeeb said you will have to use a fuseable link, a circut breaker would also work... Maybe check jegs, or summit racing

 

[Muadeeb]

You also asked about circuit breakers...

Biggest difference between a fuse and a breaker is a fuse will typically blow quicker than a CB. CBs work by passing the load through an electromagnet coil, and when the current is high enough, causes the contact to break. They also work via heat, so if you are close to the rated current for a long time, then you could cause a trip too. I've experience the thermal trip before with Christmas lights; we had a line of lights running 14.5A, and we would trip the breaker after about 30 minutes.

 

[TKDx00]

Thanks Guys... I use fuse and fuseable link interchangeably. My mistake, to me they serve the same purpose so hence the use of the word "fuse".

Blueeyes... that item is most likely cheaper ($20) than what I found listed for Blue Sea (no price shown) and what I was looking for. ANL types are what I need. Thanks again.

 

[Prime]

If you were dedicated on doing a fuse you can do car stereo stuff in the 100+A range.

 

[TKDx00]

Prime...The only "car stereo" place by me is Best Buy. I went to them 2 weeks ago. They don't carry anything close to what I needed. So I'm a little leery on how they can install high powered stereo equipment. I found that Cabelas sells the Blue Sea holder versions for $21.

 

[Prime]

That's strange that you have no dedicated independent car stereo places around. I ran to the one up the street for a chunk of 4ga wire and a 120A fuse when. I wired my fuse box in the trunk. They had everything I needed.

 

[Mirage]

http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php

The prices/quality on these blow away overpriced car audio stuff. I am using a holder from here and an 80 amp anl for my compressor wiring after I couldn't find anything not retarded expensive or gaudy looking from a stereo shop.

 

[NismoFire]

Prime...The only "car stereo" place by me is Best Buy. I went to them 2 weeks ago. They don't carry anything close to what I needed. So I'm a little leery on how they can install high powered stereo equipment. I found that Cabelas sells the Blue Sea holder versions for $21.

If you want that kind of stuff, go back into the Mobile Install bay..they've got all the adapters, wiring, etc hanging on a wall back there. It's all for sale, if you know where to look for it.

 

[TKDx00]

Nis...that's were I went. The "kid" looked at me and said "you want what?...why?" I asked him if he was the stereo installer? He said "yea that's me". I said "Oh, ok... thanks" and left.

 

[NismoFire]

Wow. Ours has everything you could possibly ever need on a wall behind the register in the bay. That's where I got my harnesses and filters for my head unit. That sucks!

 

[TKDx00]

Mirage...Outstanding link...thanks!!! I see many things I need/want/should of had.

 

[Diadaga]

Yes I know this is the Gen 1 area but yall got the thread going already.

I'm trying to wire my blue sea fuse box up and was planning to do an inline fuse. However, I have no car electronic shops within an hours drive. O Reilly has this and I think it would work but wanna check first.

Sent from my mansion in Grouchland

 

[TKDx00]

Check out the link Mirage posted. I'm sure there's something there for you. I found a few things I'm ordering.

 

[Diadaga]

Check out the link Mirage posted. I'm sure there's something there for you. I found a few things I'm ordering.

Haven't had a chance to get on a computer still on my phone but I will check when I get home.

Sent from my mansion in Grouchland

 

[Prime]

Yes I know this is the Gen 1 area but yall got the thread going already.

I'm trying to wire my blue sea fuse box up and was planning to do an inline fuse. However, I have no car electronic shops within an hours drive. O Reilly has this and I think it would work but wanna check first.

Sent from my mansion in Grouchland

Looks like it would work to me. A circuit breaker sounds like a lot less headache than a fuse if something were to go awry.

 

[Diadaga]

Ok got a chance to check out Mirage's link and that was the kind of stuff I was looking for today. So now I have two more questions for the electrically inclined people. First one is real easy and I don't think the second will be too much harder for some of yall.

1) What's the actual name for the flexible copper wiring? Not the stuff like you get at Lowes where it's just straight up copper with a single coating on it that hates to bend, but the stuff that bends easily.

2) I get the basic jist of the differences between a fuse and a breaker. Which would you guys recommend as an interrupter between the battery and my blue sea fuse boxes?

 

[Silver dude]

1) What's the actual name for the flexible copper wiring? Not the stuff like you get at Lowes where it's just straight up copper with a single coating on it that hates to bend, but the stuff that bends easily.

Stranded wire.

2) I get the basic jist of the differences between a fuse and a breaker. Which would you guys recommend as an interrupter between the battery and my blue sea fuse boxes?

I like that circuit breaker you posted. I'm a diesel mechanic and many of our vans use those for wheelchair lift power. They seem reliable I've replaced a few however it was do to corrosion on the leads or the reset lever being broken off. I wouldn't hesitate to install one they work very well and are easy to reset in the case of trouble.

Fuses are simple and compact only advantage they have over the breakers. That breaker is rather bulky by comparison.

Most important thing, mount them as close to the battery as you possibly can so they can serve a purpose. The whole idea on a main fuse or breaker is to disconnect in the case of a short to ground. If that main cable rubs thru or chafes and shorts to ground the fuse blows rather then smoking the wire possibly creating a vehicle fire. You want it at the battery to avoid a length of unprotected wire. If you have 2 foot of wire before the fuse or circuit breaker that 2 foot of wire if it rubs thru could create a bad situation. So make sure its close to the battery. If you must run a length of wire before a fuse or circuit breaker protect it with split loom to help protect the insulation and route it with caution.

 

[Diadaga]

Thanks Silver that helps a lot.

Sent from my mansion in Grouchland

 

[TKDx00]

Dude answered the first question.

2) I get the basic jist of the differences between a fuse and a breaker. Which would you guys recommend as an interrupter between the battery and my blue sea fuse boxes?

They serve the same purpose however I look at them like this...breakers are reuseable where fuses are not. Breakers are bulky(most), where fuses (most) are compact. Breakers cost more. If you have the extra $ and a place close to the power source, I'd use the breaker. In my case I won't have the room so I used a fuse at the main battery to my Blue Sea. When the AUX. bat. is installed that same fuse will become the Dual batterty relay and the Aux bat will get the fuse.

 

[Prime]

I see that your questions have been answered. So I won't waste the time. However.

1) What's the actual name for the flexible copper wiring? Not the stuff like you get at Lowes where it's just straight up copper with a single coating on it that hates to bend, but the stuff that bends easily.

You may also see it listed a Primary Wire. I know I bought the last few spools from Home Depot in he electrical isle.

 

[Diadaga]

I see that your questions have been answered. So I won't waste the time. However.




You may also see it listed a Primary Wire. I know I bought the last few spools from Home Depot in he electrical isle.

Is that the super floppy stuff cause I've gotten some wiring before that is literally a limp noodle.

 

[Prime]

No. The SUPER floppy stuff is a loose braid of an aluminum/copper mix or straight aluminum. You see it a lot in stereo wiring. Primary wire is pure copper and yeah, it's flexible but not wet noodle.

 

[Diadaga]

No. The SUPER floppy stuff is a loose braid of an aluminum/copper mix or straight aluminum. You see it a lot in stereo wiring. Primary wire is pure copper and yeah, it's flexible but not wet noodle.

Knowing that I'm surprised they used that for the wiring that came with my winch.

 

[Silver dude]

Strands is what makes the wire flexable. The more strands the more flexable it is. Welding cable and most audio wiring has a ton of strands as it needs to be flexable. Where as typical stranded wiring with fewer stands isn't as flexable.

 

[metzican]

While we are talking about this. Do people ever fuse up there winch? or do they just install a second solinoid?

 

[Silver dude]

Yeah that's a tough one as at full stall a winch could pull 250amps. Perhaps in that case a very large fuse could be used. I know I've seen people with bumper mounted emergency stop switches in case the solenoid gets stuck. They probably use a second solenoid in that case. With the solenoid disconnecting the power its not a big issue as the length of always live cable is pretty short.

Ben

 

[metzican]

Max amp pull for my winch is said to be 360amps. So yes its a very large pull. I like that E-stop button idea. Won't draw any more amps until you hit it. I will have to look into all this further down the line.