Failed Head Gasket.. (Contains Club Xterra Links)

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
Blah: 2003 Xterra SE 4x4, 175k on the ticker...

So about a month ago, I posted this (on Club Xterra): Leaking Thermostat Housing

* Issue resolved, and confirmed it was that damn little hose connecting the upper and lower thermostat housing thing-a-ma-jig.

The New Issue

Take a look for yourself

What are my options, realistically speaking (because budget doesn't necessarily allow me to go get a new engine and swap it) and what are some suggestions along the way?

* Here's more detail:

If you want an up close look at what I found (the last one was for reference elsewhere, but it got included by accident). That's what I believe is referred to as the #6 piston in the back on the driver's side. I really, really should have inspected this better before doing all the effort of saving for the parts I needed before finding this.

Now, as stated previously, the truck never actually overheated, i.e. redline on the freeway, but it did get hot (the needle never reached the red zone on the temp gauge). It began to climb in temperature when I was about five blocks from my house, at which point I had to stop about every block, let it cool off, and then drive another block until I got home.


AKaDJm8.jpg
 

SteeevO

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
fontana,ca
pull the heads and have them inspected for warpage. maybe have them rebuilt. take a look at other components while you're in there. You might get lucky and just need a new gasket. otherwise, You may be best off just taking your chances getting a running motor from the junk yard and dropping it in.
If you're handy with tools and work efficiently, one person can do a motor swap in these trucks in one weekend.

You really aren't going to know what your best option is until you pull the heads and investigate a bit further.
 

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
Frankly, the motor has been beaten to hell prior to me, and I can see that more clearly now than ever. I gave it a thorough once over before buying to spot any issues and barring a valve cover gasket needing replaced (it was used, can't nit-pick too much) and a cracked exhaust manifold, it was fine. Even ran fantastic and never had issues.

So naturally 11 months into ownership and well after the seriously lacking warranty ran out it does this.

Will be shopping for engines to see what I can find. Thanks for your input, friendo. If I do a swap or anything I'll be sure to write up a good guide. Haven't really seen one.
 

SteeevO

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
fontana,ca
Im actually going.g through a vg33 rebuild right now that will go into my pathfinder. Im waiting until the Gen 1 SAS is done to really dig into it and post progress. Hopefully that will help as well.

Sent while mobile, typos likely.
 

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
I'm thinking the easiest would be to do an engine swap. Dream build would be the vg33/vg30/ pistons from a Q45 build I've seen from some time ago (will find a link when I can). It was pretty slick but I doubt I could do that with any efficiency and it's way more cost than I can afford.

Part of my trouble is that my area doesn't have much in the way of newer Xterra parts.
 

SteeevO

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
fontana,ca
Yeah that vg34 build put out nearly 250hp.

There are also stroker kits available
On a bored out vg 33 block you can end up with a 3.6L motor and put out around 300Hp.

Basically a stroked vg33

Sent while mobile, typos likely.
 

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
Yeah that vg34 build put out nearly 250hp.

There are also stroker kits available
On a bored out vg 33 block you can end up with a 3.6L motor and put out around 300Hp.

Basically a stroked vg33

Sent while mobile, typos likely.

Might be over my head, but any idea on cost for that vg34 build in a ball park guess-timate? I'll be doing my own research into it but I'm thinking that I'll likely end up doing a plain ol' head gasket repair to get up and going.
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
I think the most difficult part for the vg34 build would be finding someone who can machine the piston heads to match the reliefs on the stock ones.
 

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
I think the most difficult part for the vg34 build would be finding someone who can machine the piston heads to match the reliefs on the stock ones.

You are correct. I'm going for an in-vehicle rebuild to get Edgar back on the road. Don't really have access to pull the engine out anyway. If I ever find a donor motor, I'll do that build and then swap it all but that'll be in the long run.

Right now I'm contending with getting the M**** F***in' cam sprockets off as I cannot find the camshaft holding tool anywhere local. If I can't dig up a DIY solution by morning I'm going to rush order one from Amazon.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
You are correct. I'm going for an in-vehicle rebuild to get Edgar back on the road. Don't really have access to pull the engine out anyway. If I ever find a donor motor, I'll do that build and then swap it all but that'll be in the long run.

Right now I'm contending with getting the M**** F***in' cam sprockets off as I cannot find the camshaft holding tool anywhere local. If I can't dig up a DIY solution by morning I'm going to rush order one from Amazon.

Easiest way is to leave the timing belt on and loosen the bolts.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack
 

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
Easiest way is to leave the timing belt on and loosen the bolts.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack

Ended up holding them in place with a latch strap. Will likely investigate how to build a holding tool with some parts from a hardware store. For now, they're off and now I'm studying to get the AC Compressor, Alternator, and Power Steering Pump off in the morning after I'm off work.
 

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
Minor update:

One of my cylinder head bolts stripped while I was GINGERLY trying to remove it. A few reasons that could have happened but it's not the least of my concerns. Also found that the exhaust manifold bolts were, contrary to everything I'd been reading, super-duper easy to back out (almost no effort at all actually). These two things combined tell me things.

I'm investigating how to get a stripped hex head bolt out. Anyone with a few brilliant ideas is welcome to chime in. Anyone willing to give a motor away will be awarded beer (kidding).

I should just move this to be a build thread, and it would be the worst of all time. XD
 

mac11

Bought an X
Location
Nashville
I would get a socket that not quite fits over the outer portion of the head, and use a hammer to drive it on. turn it off and throw both away.


youre planning on replacing the head bolts, correct?
 

Cameron23

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Kansas
I did this when I was changing valve cover gaskets. Get the next size up in hex drive and "lightly but forcefully" hammer it into the hex it worked on the first try for me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
I did this when I was changing valve cover gaskets. Get the next size up in hex drive and "lightly but forcefully" hammer it into the hex it worked on the first try for me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Works well with internal sockets (Allen, torx)
intake_bolt.jpg


For a hex bolt, you have to go smaller.
 
Top