coolant leak.

[MisterH]

It's 2013. I noticed a puddle that looked like some coolant in the crossbar. Within 9 months, it has gotten a new water pump, thermostat, and radiator. Not sure what's leaking. Temps and all are fine.

 

[MisterH]

Since the new OEM thermostat and OEM caps, I noticed the temperature range is different than before. I always get nervous seeing it move up. I hope it's normal.

 

[RikRong]

Is the thermostat actually OE or is it a different brand? Non-OEM thermostats don't get along with the Xterra very well. Did you place the pressure cap on your coolant reservoir and the non-pressure cap on the radiator? How well is the system bled/burped?

 

[MisterH]

Is the thermostat actually OE or is it a different brand? Non-OEM thermostats don't get along with the Xterra very well. Did you place the pressure cap on your coolant reservoir and the non-pressure cap on the radiator? How well is the system bled/burped?

Everything is OEM. Spring OEM cap on the pressure tank and the radiator have non-spring OEM cap. The thermostat is OEM. Bleed and burped just fine—pressure vacuum on the radiator cap.

 

[MisterH]

I checked OBD 220 nearly all the time, and the highest, 228. I am wondering if the temp for the engine needs to be changed.

 

[TerryD]

You don't need to change the temperature.

With the engine warmed up, are your hoses all tight? It's common for the plastic tees at the fire wall to fail and not pressurize the system so it over heats.

Is that high temp while sitting and idling or at speed on the road? Does it cool off when you start driving?

 

[MisterH]

You don't need to change the temperature.

With the engine warmed up, are your hoses all tight? It's common for the plastic tees at the fire wall to fail and not pressurize the system so it over heats.

Is that high temp while sitting and idling or at speed on the road? Does it cool off when you start driving?

It seems idle fine and lower speeds. It seems like more speed more volume and a potential air gap is found. It's been block tested and a new water pump.

 

[MisterH]

Anything is 25 mph, and the temp gauge is 4 o'clock position. It moves to half above 30 mph and stays there. I checked the radiator's coolant, which was 6 to 8 oz low. Gun shy because, after owning this car since December, cooling has been the issue.

 

[TerryD]

Who's doing the system bleeding?

 

[MisterH]

Mechanic initially with a vacuum, but I have checked. Since, because temps and making sure the thing is full of coolant. Where it can't get air, I am taking it to work today. It's a 30-mile commute, and see how it goes.

 

[TerryD]

I've seen vehicles suck old/failing radiator hoses shut when the engine speeds up. You'll have to raise the hood and have someone raise the RPM to around 2000 the. Examine the hoses.

Did a previous owner put some kind of stop leak in it? It seems like a water flow issue. Generally heating when moving is a water pump issue or an issue with a hose or even the radiator being full of debris from the outside or the tubes stopped up internally.

 

[MisterH]

I dropped it off at the shop. It was getting warm again. They’re going to look at fans and the rest. The water pump was replaced in Dec or January. Was it aftermarket? Probably. The shop did it, and it wasn’t cheap. It cost me 1200. The radiator was replaced about the same time, that was 700.: The heater works just fine. It was burning hot. They did put in 170 OEM thermostat. I wonder if the pressure tank isn’t the issue or if the tube from the radiator is to it.

 

[MisterH]

It's fixed or seems okay. I think, finally, the OEM thermostat was put in. I question if they did before. It stays at the 4 o'clock 99% of the time. In the mail, I got an OEM one with an OEM gasket for a backup.