- Location
- Western Massachusetts
I don't know what prompted me to do it, but I decided I'd make a dashboard mount for my digital camera. I'm pleased with it, and it was pretty simple and basically free; so I thought I'd share.
STEP 1: Gather your materials.
(1) 1/4-20 x 3/4" socket head cap screw (3/4" is the length of the threaded section of the screw). The standard thread size for the tripod mount on cameras is 1/4-20. You may want to verify this on your camera before proceeding. (But the standard thread size for the tripod is 1/4-20).
(1) Rubber grommet, the kind for putting in a hole in sheet metal to protect wires from the sharp edges. The grommet should fit snugly over the threads of the bolt.
(1) 1/4-20 Nylock nut. (Or whatever thread bolt you used [again, should be 1/4-20]).
(1) Drill bit. I used a 7/32", you want the hole to be a little tight for the bolt to to through.
(1) Razor blade, utility knife, pocket knife, set of sharp teeth...something to cut the grommet.
STEP 2:
CAREFULLY slice the grommet into 3 pieces. The top and bottom of the grommet (the parts with the beveled edges) you need to keep. The middle section of the grommet isn't necessary and can be tossed. It's easiest to force the grommet onto the 1/4-20 screw when cutting.
Leave ONE half of the grommet on the screw, remove the second. You'll need it later on.
STEP 3:
Dismantle your center console area and check for wiring underneath the dash cover. If you try this DIY, and drill into wiring under your dash cover, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE. NOT ME. I didn't find any wiring under there, but who knows what may be different from truck to truck. Just putting it out there to cover my butt.
3a) Remove the trim around your transmission/transfer case sticks.
Just grab it by the opening on your T-case selector and give it a yank upwards. If you're a 4x2, buy a 4x4 before continuing with this DIY. Nah, if you're 4x2 I'm sure you can find a suitable place to pull up on this trim.
3b) Remove the 4 Philips head screws that hold the stereo/heater control trim on. Then grab hold of the trim (I find it's easiest to pull from the edge of the vents) and give it a tug, straight back away from the dash.
3c) Inspect (as best you can) the area below the dash cover for wiring harnesses or anything else that you don't want to drill into.
STEP 4: Drill the hole. No need for a power/battery powered drill here, it's just plastic; just drill through it by hand with the drill bit. (Besides, there's no way you could fit a drill between the windshield and dashboard).
STEP 5: Now it's time to get the screw through the hole. The head of the screw needs to be on the inside of the dash, so it's got to come out from the inside. This can be tricky depending on how fat your hands are, how flexible your fingers are, and where you put the hole. I tried the "tie a string to it and pull it through" technique, and it didn't work.
Instead, I took a small scrap of paper, and put it flat over the hex on the screw head. Then I took my 3/16" Allen key and stuffed it into the hex. The paper filled the gap around the hex and held the screw tight to the wrench. This way, you don't drop the screw into the Never Never Land which exists behind your dash.
5a): Now that you've got your hole drilled and your screw held tight to your Allen key, carefully finagle the bolt through the hole. This may take a while...be patient.
Once the bolt comes through, grab it with your fingers/pliers and pull it up tight. Hold it in place and put the second half-grommet over the bolt, and then the Nylock nut. Screw the nut on until it just starts to deform the grommet.
Put your dash back together, and you're done!
Here's the view from the dashcam:
And how the camera looks mounted:
Enjoy!
Here's a demo video:
[video=youtube;cnJH58q39S8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnJH58q39S8[/video]
STEP 1: Gather your materials.
(1) 1/4-20 x 3/4" socket head cap screw (3/4" is the length of the threaded section of the screw). The standard thread size for the tripod mount on cameras is 1/4-20. You may want to verify this on your camera before proceeding. (But the standard thread size for the tripod is 1/4-20).
(1) Rubber grommet, the kind for putting in a hole in sheet metal to protect wires from the sharp edges. The grommet should fit snugly over the threads of the bolt.
(1) 1/4-20 Nylock nut. (Or whatever thread bolt you used [again, should be 1/4-20]).
(1) Drill bit. I used a 7/32", you want the hole to be a little tight for the bolt to to through.
(1) Razor blade, utility knife, pocket knife, set of sharp teeth...something to cut the grommet.
STEP 2:
CAREFULLY slice the grommet into 3 pieces. The top and bottom of the grommet (the parts with the beveled edges) you need to keep. The middle section of the grommet isn't necessary and can be tossed. It's easiest to force the grommet onto the 1/4-20 screw when cutting.
Leave ONE half of the grommet on the screw, remove the second. You'll need it later on.
STEP 3:
Dismantle your center console area and check for wiring underneath the dash cover. If you try this DIY, and drill into wiring under your dash cover, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE. NOT ME. I didn't find any wiring under there, but who knows what may be different from truck to truck. Just putting it out there to cover my butt.
3a) Remove the trim around your transmission/transfer case sticks.
Just grab it by the opening on your T-case selector and give it a yank upwards. If you're a 4x2, buy a 4x4 before continuing with this DIY. Nah, if you're 4x2 I'm sure you can find a suitable place to pull up on this trim.
3b) Remove the 4 Philips head screws that hold the stereo/heater control trim on. Then grab hold of the trim (I find it's easiest to pull from the edge of the vents) and give it a tug, straight back away from the dash.
3c) Inspect (as best you can) the area below the dash cover for wiring harnesses or anything else that you don't want to drill into.
STEP 4: Drill the hole. No need for a power/battery powered drill here, it's just plastic; just drill through it by hand with the drill bit. (Besides, there's no way you could fit a drill between the windshield and dashboard).
STEP 5: Now it's time to get the screw through the hole. The head of the screw needs to be on the inside of the dash, so it's got to come out from the inside. This can be tricky depending on how fat your hands are, how flexible your fingers are, and where you put the hole. I tried the "tie a string to it and pull it through" technique, and it didn't work.
Instead, I took a small scrap of paper, and put it flat over the hex on the screw head. Then I took my 3/16" Allen key and stuffed it into the hex. The paper filled the gap around the hex and held the screw tight to the wrench. This way, you don't drop the screw into the Never Never Land which exists behind your dash.
5a): Now that you've got your hole drilled and your screw held tight to your Allen key, carefully finagle the bolt through the hole. This may take a while...be patient.
Once the bolt comes through, grab it with your fingers/pliers and pull it up tight. Hold it in place and put the second half-grommet over the bolt, and then the Nylock nut. Screw the nut on until it just starts to deform the grommet.
Put your dash back together, and you're done!
Here's the view from the dashcam:
And how the camera looks mounted:
Enjoy!
Here's a demo video:
[video=youtube;cnJH58q39S8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnJH58q39S8[/video]
Last edited:
I was worried about seeing the thing all the time as well, but it's so small I don't even notice it anymore (unless the camera is on it).