A/C compressor took a dump

Scott Peele

Bought an X
Location
Poway, CA
Today my A/C compressor started howling, followed by the smell of a burnt clutch, and some smoke coming from the compressor. Seems like I need a new compressor at 77,800 miles (2004 V6 N/A, 2WD). I looked at Rock auto and they list 4 different part #'s. How do I determine if I need one with shallow ports, deep ports, or a 4 groove piston style? I would like to order the compressor since it would be cheaper than having the dealer provide it.
Has anyone replaced their own compressor? I'm sure the process would involve purging and refilling the refrigerant, which is something I am not able to do.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Today my A/C compressor started howling, followed by the smell of a burnt clutch, and some smoke coming from the compressor. Seems like I need a new compressor at 77,800 miles (2004 V6 N/A, 2WD). I looked at Rock auto and they list 4 different part #'s. How do I determine if I need one with shallow ports, deep ports, or a 4 groove piston style? I would like to order the compressor since it would be cheaper than having the dealer provide it.
Has anyone replaced their own compressor? I'm sure the process would involve purging and refilling the refrigerant, which is something I am not able to do.

I've done it. Give me about 30 minutes...

Sent via wild ferrets on crack
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
I need to copy-paste this somewhere as this is the 2nd time I've typed this...

With deep ports, you can use hoses that are either deep or shallow whereas with shallow ports, you're stuck with shallow hoses. Just go with the deep ports for the sake of simplicity. You'll want a compressor, dryer, and ideally an expansion valve. This is what I ordered from Rock Auto:
ac%20shopping%20cart.png



As for the process...

Tools:
10mm socket
12mm socket
6mm allen (maybe, depends on the pump)
8mm wrench
12mm wrench
17mm wrench
19mm wrench
24mm wrench
27mm wrench
AC Manifold gauge
Vacuum pump
~25oz of refrigerant (with no oil or sealants if you can)
couple of oz of PAG-80 oil

Notes: the 17 and 19 will be used at the same time, as will the 24/27. They are only used to remove the evap core.
Rent the manifold and pump from Autozone or similar.


Procedure:
Take it to a shop and have them drain it. When I did it, they charged me about $40 to do this. Remove the hoses from the compressor, undo the drive belt, then unmount the compressor. DO NOT LET THE OIL DRAIN OUT. Set the compressor aside for now. Remove the dryer (located behind the grill, next to the condenser core) and trash it.

If you're going to replace the expansion valve, this is the time to do it. You'll have to take apart the dash to get the core out... Use the 17 and 19 wrenches to undo the high side hose, and the 24 and 27 to undo the return hose. Core is pulled out into the cab, and needs further dissassembly to get to the expansion valve. Honestly, I couldn't free the evaporator, so I never got this far. (Still have the expansion valve sitting in the garage).


Remember the compressor you set aside? Drain the oil out of the compressor into a container where you can measure how much comes out. That much new will go into the new compressor, + 5ml (0.2oz). The oil will go into the low side port (Should be the front one) and you may need to turn the pump to get it all in. Reinstall the hoses, evaporator core, and the do the dryer LAST. The dryer has a small amount of desiccant in it and will quickly loose its effectiveness if it's exposed to the atmosphere for too long.

Hook up the Manifold gauge to the AC lines and the vacuum pump to the manifold. Open the low and high valves on the manifold, and pull vacuum for about 30 minutes, then kill the pump and let it set for another 30. If the vacuum gauge doesn't move, then you're system is sealed and you're good to refill it. Close the high and low sides, and attach a can of refrigerant to the yellow hose of the manifold. Turn on the engine, turn on the AC system, and open the low side to allow refrigerant into the system.

While you're filling, you want to shake the can every so often, and even let it sit in some warm water. You do not want to let the can go up side down because the refrigerant is a liquid under pressure, and tipping it over can cause the liquid to get into the pump. This is bad because the pump is designed to pump gas, not liquid.

When the can is empty, close the low side hose, and remove the can. Put a new can on and repeat the procedure. If you're using the small cans, after two of them close off the hoses and check your pressures. 'Normal' will depend on ambient air temp and humidity, but at 85*, you'll want a high side of 185-225 psi and a low of 24-30. With your 3rd can, keep checking periodically until you get that range-ish.

When you're done, you should have about a 30* temperature difference at the vent compared to ambient.

A decent video of the process is available on You Tube!
[video=youtube;lglPJuBXVeE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE[/video]

I've probably forgotten something, but this'll get you extremely close.
 
Last edited:

Scott Peele

Bought an X
Location
Poway, CA
Wow....Thanks for all the info, Muadeeb. This process involves more tools and expertise than I have. (no manifold gauge or vacuum pump). Knowing what part #'s to order is extremely helpful, so thanks very much!:smile:
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Manifold and Vacuum are rentable from Autozone for about 225, and is 100% refunded when you return it. The PAG oil and refrigerant are also obtainable from AZ. As for the wrenches, the 27 took some looking. I am still running my factory expansion valve, but if your compressor smoked, then you'll probably want to try real hard to get at the valve.

If you don't feel up to the recharging, then go ahead and take it to a shop to do. I'd still rent the pump and gauge to verify the system is sealed, but it really isn't that bad. If you can do a timing belt, this is much less taxing.
 
Last edited:

Scott Peele

Bought an X
Location
Poway, CA
Had a shop do the belt at 70K, about a year ago. I could have done that with some help, but I am also hindered by not having the proper facilities for things like draining coolant. My HOA would throw a conniption if anything spilled. I think the same shop will charge between 300-500 for labor to replace all three parts.
 
Top