The "Lift Specs" are:
1) Zero camber
2) Right side caster maxed out while still having zero camber. Left side slightly less caster to compensate for road crown while still maintaining zero camber
3) Stock toe in which is 0.08 inches each side, or 0.16 total INCHES of toe...which equals about 0.32 degrees toe in
Compare to stock specs:
Camber: Factory Service manual has minimum of 0.1 degrees and maximum of 1.1 degrees camber each side
Caster: 1.7 - 2.7 degrees
Toe In: Exact same for lift or non lift
Bottom line is: the lift specs are basically the same as stock specs, except we specify zero camber for better tire wear...and since camber and caster are both controlled by UCA bolts and are competing objectives.....we prioritize and sacrifice some caster to keep camber low...so at 0 camber, you may only be able to max out the passenger side to 1.6 degrees, etc.
Toe in is independently adjustable with the tie rods...so that doesn't impact camber or caster.
I got mine done at Firestone. The guys aren't the most knowledgeable for custom alignments, but they have great customer service at my location. I was in the shop explaining exactly what I wanted done and they were willing to listen and let me go back to the rack and help out the tech.
I ended up with 0.2 positive camber and 2.1 caster on each side. Perfect toe in. Best alignment I have had since lifting. Grass roots center link was the key in getting a reliable alignment...the stock style has too much play that the measurements changed drastically just backing it off the rack and re-loading it on. Not the same with the grass roots center link. I had outer edge tire wear on previous alignments, but it isn't the specs, I don't think. The stock style center link is unreliable at holding the tie rods and the front edge of the tires properly, that even if the computer says it is aligned, it changes constantly while driving due to the play in the ball joints, studs, and the flexing of the center link on the arms. Toe in causes bad outer edge tire wear...and I think the toe in is the culprit when the center link flexes, as that essentially shortens the tie rods and brings the front edge of the tires inwards.
I have researched and studied these alignment specs to no other. The lifted alignments aren't much different from stock, other than we specify we want as close to zero camber as we can. Everything else more or less lands in the "green zone" that the computer will show.