Recent content by Slapdash Racing

I do.

After a rear line geysered on my, I'm replacing all my brake lines, hard and soft. It seems that all the lines take the same size fittings, except for the two fittings that go into each rear drum/cylinder. These seem to have a few extra threads and the hex part where you crank to get it out...

Much appreciated! For some reason, I didn't see this line in your previous post: "There are two lines out from the MC; one for the front, one for the back. One MC line to the block, two front caliper lines to the block. One MC line to a coupler, the rear drum line to the coupler. Bleed the...

So I could use something like this for the block? MC comes in where it says FR1 and the two fronts out on either side?

Haha, my ABS light has been on for a couple years now, so that part doesn't really bother me. And I like the idea of having extra space in there for something else, or just more room to work around other stuff. I'll pull the bulb if I ever need to pull the cluster.

Ahhh, OK, I get it now. So it's like a splitter. Does the 'block' have a different name when I search for it, like sometimes 'the diff' is called 'final drive'? Is it a distribution block? Thanks for shedding some light!

Hoping to revive an old thread here, but I'm about to do this on my rig after blowing a hard line at the right rear. So I'm going to be putting all new lines in and deleting my ABS module as well. Question to you Bklyn.X, what is the purpose of running the lines from the MC to the block? If...

Figured this out... eventually. Combination of looking at the old one, where the rust/dissimilar metal corrosion was occurring, and the logic of a slight lean aft for the engine/trans did the trick. Still can't figure out why Mr. or Mrs. Xterra (the designers) would block ONE bolt on the trans...

Hey Gang, Swapped my engine and trans mounts recently and when I went to drain/filter change the trans oil, I noticed that I couldn't even get my thinnest 10 mm betwixt the oil pan and the trans mount. Then I noticed that the mount itself sort of has a curved side and straight side. I put the...

Thanks for the follow-up!

My guess, and only a guess, is that the two heater hoses that run up to the throttle body were weeping for a time and settled down in where you found the corrosion. My rally car did that once (and old BMW) and I just spliced the hoses together and everything was good to go.

Update: For Sale - Abovementioned headers. I'm going stock manifolds. Don't feel like mucking about with engine codes, which are already plentiful.

Agree with ShortbutFunky, great instructions by the way. Just as another anecdote, My windows actually fell off once and slid down inside the door, luckily didn't break. I bought new regulators (scissor thing) and motors, reattached everything, lubed'em up and sadly, they acted just as before...

Hey Gang, Started researching replacing the cracked exhaust manifolds. I knew at least one was cracked, so I found a set of slightly used ebay headers about two years ago, with O2s attached. After reading about how much of a pain in the a$$ it was to replace, they stayed on the shelf. Well...

Yes, the weather seems to be going backwards around here too. Was 66 the other day, now it’s back to Arctic. Thanks for posting the alternative method. That sounds much more economical than my version, particularly since it’s going to be an oft-repeated process.