RoninJiro's Build (now diesel)
- Thread starter Roninjiro
- Start date
- Location
- Hainesville IL
mmmm IFS porn :smile:
great shots of your X wheeling!
great shots of your X wheeling!
She will get a custom roof rack when I get the time to build it and tap the threads clean. I will end up making the rack low and there will be a foldable platform hopefully so i can stand up there with another smaller RTT in the future. After that and lockers, and new tires... I am done I think with major mods
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- Location
- Central FL
Short of an sas I dont think there are any other major mods left...lol
Sent from my walkie talkie
Sent from my walkie talkie
ChiXterra
Wheeling
- Location
- Northern Illinois
midget
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- what cheer,Iowa
Cage & SAS.... just saying I cant belive you did the diesel first and arent making that IFS pucker from the extra tourqe.
ChiXterra
Wheeling
- Location
- Northern Illinois
Power is similar to the VG33 V6, so its not anything crazy.
midget
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- what cheer,Iowa
Ok i was assuming he stuck in a 4bt, I just went back and caught up. Makes more sense now i didnt know how the hell he couldve stuck a 4bt under the hood without an sas.
lol, I am not going to do a SAS, the truck is geared more toward long distance overland travel, thats why the diesel. I am trying to keep it as close to stock as possible (tried to, but diesel was a must for me). Also the IFS is easy to diagnose and repair for me. ChiXterra is going to do the SAS then the diesel conversion... so you guys will see a SAS'ed diesel xterra soon (j/k i think)!!
sorry no cage either. no rock crawler here :happy:
sorry no cage either. no rock crawler here :happy:
- Location
- Dayton, OH
awesome build man! I really like how clean the build is with everything you've done! (Just gotta get that roof rack back on, or the new one built so it doesn't seem so naked) 
- Location
- Rhode Island
Perfect day to install a fridge.
- Location
- SW OK & formerly Eastern NM
Sweet. Is it an ARB one?
- Location
- machesney park IL
I have the same fridge absolutly love it. Best investment I've made in camping expedition gear. Nothing is better then grabing a ice cold one or bringing perishable food like sirloin steaks into the backcountry. I've upgraded the plastic handles to metal to lash it down more securely. Also installed sermo's connectors. As the cig plug doesn't stay like it should when bouncing down a beach or gravel road.
Ben
Ben
- Location
- Hainesville IL
that fridge looks like a safe! lol.
ChiXterra
Wheeling
- Location
- Northern Illinois
In my dreams only..:dead:
The fridge is by whyter for all who are wondering, and yes the insulation is amazing on it. Had it down to 20 degrees an the beers that came out of it were amazing!!! The plastic handles do need to be replaced with metal ones, and mine is hardwired w/ fuse into the rear cig lighter circuit.
And ChiXterra... dreams usually just take awhile to come true.
And ChiXterra... dreams usually just take awhile to come true.
- Location
- machesney park IL
I just bought some weld on style metal handles. Then traced, drilled holes and spray painted. Others have used the basic shed handles found at hardware stores with the same result easy fix. There is write up on the ex portal where you can install the stock springs on the same handles I found to keep the spring loaded effect. I just put them on as I never really cared for the spring handles. I'm making a fridge slide if I'd ever get enough time to finish it. Its nice as it slides it out of the back so the lid has clearance to clear the cab ceiling and open fully. As it sits it won't open all the way but it is plenty to get most items in or out. Just can't see what you getting at as easy. Also installed a cooler light which turns on when you open the lid which is great for those night time snack attacks.
http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/500-1335/c802/Surface-Mount-Chest-Handle.html
http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/product/500-1335/c802/Surface-Mount-Chest-Handle.html
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thank you for the handle idea... the plastic handle is definitely not good for hold downs... also do you run yours 24/7? I tried that overnight and woke to a low redtop optima (had to jump it off, and the battery is old).
On another note... still having issues with the start of overheating on the highway...+70mph up hill, high revs.... I have troubleshooted everything and left with a possible collapsing lower hose, not enough air flow to the radiator (don't think that is a problem because a/c is ice cold) due to that winch mount plus the shrock bumper, or because I have no fan shrouds (not likely because I sit in traffic with no issues). The most likely culprit will require me to be out in the middle of nowhere so I can rev it up high enough to simulate my momentary high rev highway speeding. Sigh... I have never had issues with cooling systems like this before
On another note... still having issues with the start of overheating on the highway...+70mph up hill, high revs.... I have troubleshooted everything and left with a possible collapsing lower hose, not enough air flow to the radiator (don't think that is a problem because a/c is ice cold) due to that winch mount plus the shrock bumper, or because I have no fan shrouds (not likely because I sit in traffic with no issues). The most likely culprit will require me to be out in the middle of nowhere so I can rev it up high enough to simulate my momentary high rev highway speeding. Sigh... I have never had issues with cooling systems like this before
- Location
- machesney park IL
Nah, I just run it when I need it. To much weight and space for me to tote everywhere I go. On a hot day the truck cab could reach 120 degrees or so the fridge would never be able to keep up or provide cooling for the compressor. I would have it on a switch or connector you could easily disconnect. I to have had issues with dead batteries. It almost seems like its a guessing game if it will start. The fridge is supposed to have a low voltage cut off. It stops it from cycling when the fridge reaches its set voltage so the truck can start. It works sometimes but not all the time I've had voltage as low as 8 volts. One time deep in the backcountry. We were lucky a passerby was able to jump us. Really need to upgrade myself to a dual battery setup. Would make so much more sense when in the middle of no where.
Cooling? How much oil capacity? I know the vg33's have a small oil capacity which causes the heat to quicky increase on long grades or when working the engine hard. The solution is of course a oil cooler or aditional filters. Not having a shroud is really killing your efficency as well.
Ben
Cooling? How much oil capacity? I know the vg33's have a small oil capacity which causes the heat to quicky increase on long grades or when working the engine hard. The solution is of course a oil cooler or aditional filters. Not having a shroud is really killing your efficency as well.
Ben
- Location
- Conroe, TX
Fridge: Adding yet another mod to the list. Would you recommend a separate battery for the fridge? Maybe a motorcycle battery?
- Location
- machesney park IL
The idea is to have two batteries. One to start the truck. The other to run accessories like your cell phone charger, fridge or whatever else you can dream up when the truck is not running. This way you always have a fresh battery to restart the truck. Usually I just unplug the fridge after I set up camp. Its insulated and maintains the temp just fine. Then the next day when I start the truck I plug it back in.
I Have to make a custom shroud as the original xterra one is offset I think... either way it doesn't work with the diesel conversion as fan placement is different. I just don't have the time to fab up a fan shroud right now, and at the moment I am losing a lot of efficiency.
Oil capacity is about the same as the vg33, but when it overheats it does these things:
1. Climbs pretty damn quick
2. If i turn the heater on it drops quickly.
3. If I don't turn the heater on, it just keeps climbing unless I let off the accelerator (drop rpms), and when I let off it starts to drop.
4. happens with a/c on, but even when off it happens.
Oil capacity is about the same as the vg33, but when it overheats it does these things:
1. Climbs pretty damn quick
2. If i turn the heater on it drops quickly.
3. If I don't turn the heater on, it just keeps climbing unless I let off the accelerator (drop rpms), and when I let off it starts to drop.
4. happens with a/c on, but even when off it happens.
tried that years ago and was a horrible experience (high-powered e-fans, and still could not pull the same CFM's)... e-fan < engine clutch fan
James, your problem sounds a lot like one I encountered with a modified Civic. We built a motor that was revving so high the water pump was cavitating at high RPM's leading to over heating. A bigger water pump pulley and longer belt solved the issue. Not necessarily your issue, but it is is possible. You might not be over driving the pump, but it can still cavitate if the overall cooling system pressure is too low.
- Location
- machesney park IL
If its filling the overflow could be the cap.
Jason... that was an idea that scares the crap out of me, because that is not an option as pulley-pump-clutch are one piece.Dude, the overflow stays at level like it should, I was watching that also because I did replace the cap awhile back (tested the old one with my snap-on cooling system tester and it was bad). I am betting it is a really simple fix like I still have air in the system.
jmnielsen
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Lincoln, NE
That's spot on. Although yellow tops are a 'dual purpose' battery per say, as in cranking and deep cycle. A motorcycle would do a terrible job for running a fridge. It looks like the whynter fridge/freezer has a max draw of 2.5 amps. A common motorcycle battery is rated at about 12 amp hours.. so you'd get 4.8 hours run time. where a deep cycle battery rated at 120 AH would run it for 2 days before needing recharded (theoretically). I work with batteries all day everyday, so i felt like chiming in
/threadjack
this build has been awesome, I wish i had the cojones to throw a diesel in my 2nd gen. Maybe someday when my other motor blows. I'm only at 50k miles right now though.
jmnielsen
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Lincoln, NE
It really depends on how well you take care of them and the climate you are in. Extreme heat kills batteries fast, and winter is when you notice it. But if you take good care of them they should last- as in not using a cranking battery in a deep cycle application and vice versa. As for a specific time I would say 6 years is common. Many times 7-8 years. I've even seen some last 11 years. But i would expect about 6 years. Deep cycles usually have a little shorter life, cranking usually have a little longer.
ok that is some good advice... looks like I need two new batteries. I have about 6 years on this redtop and 3 or 4 on this yellow top
- Location
- Conroe, TX
Good advice for sure! My last red top lasted 6 years. Interstate batteries didn't last long at all.
Keep up the good work gents!
Keep up the good work gents!
- Location
- Hainesville IL
:weep:<-- my face when i read that and i have an interstate that i bought last year.
jmnielsen
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Lincoln, NE
Dang, I work at interstate batteries.. haven't ever had anyone with serious issues that we couldn't take care of
- Location
- machesney park IL
Go Diehard platinum. The Optima batteries have been plaqued with issues lately. Lots of threads on expo about optima's recent poor quality.
Ben
Ben
jmnielsen
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Lincoln, NE
You do know the same company makes both batteries? Basically the only difference is one is flat plate agm the other is spiral.
- Location
- machesney park IL
I don't believe that to be true unless someone can prove me otherwise. The Diehard batteries are made by Johnson control. As is the Optima series. However the Diehard platinum series are rebadged Odyssey batteries made by the military industrial company Enersyn.
Ben
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