- Location
- Amarillo, TX
Ok, so, if you're looking to get into crawlers, expect to spend $800-$1000 before you're set up very well.
First things first, decide if you want a "scaler" or a "comp" style crawler.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages, and, both also come with their own "rules" if you're going to run with any groups that play by USRCCA rules.
Comp crawlers are usually radical looking beasts with huge tires and awesome flex and crawling capabilities. You can find MOA (Motor On Axle) rigs that can drive nearly anywhere (axial xr10 is an example), and, with the correct setup on electronics, you can run front and rear axles independent of each other. In "super class" you get into massive rigs where 4 wheel steering is legal too. You have shaft driven comp rigs (AX10) as well. They can be made to perform awesomely, but, because they have a centrally located motor and transmission (and sometimes a dig), their weight distribution isn't as good, and are usually more top heavy.
Scale crawlers are half model, half crawler, and should look and drive like a 1:1 scale vehicle. The SCX10 is a good example of that.
You also have the guys that're in between, like the axial wraith. THESE are where I'd go personally. I love the wraith, and, if I didn't already have 2 custom builds, I'd be buying a wraith kit.
here are a few links...all are RTR's
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTDC&P=ML
Rubicon SCX10
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBWEP&P=ML
Honcho SCX10 (truggy style rig)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAZUT&P=ML
Wraith
Now, I'd suggest keeping an open mind, and doing a kit version instead.
(The only exception is if the RTR is both 2.4GHz and Waterproof.)
The kit won't have any electronics, but, that's typically ok, because, you're going to want to improve the stock "crap" anyway. It's also not preassembled, which means, you'll know exactly how everything goes together and comes apart so when you need to fix things, you're already familiar.
Kits typically include upgraded parts over RTR's, and, when you grab the parts that aren't already upgraded (steering knuckles and C hubs for starters, CVD shafts if not already included for the second point, do them both right away, they're your most commonly destroyed parts)
For the REST of the story:
Radio: if it isn't a frequency hopping 2.4ghz one, you don't want it. Upgrade. Interference between rigs is annoying as hell, and, potentially dangerous and costly.
ESC: make sure it's tunable. End of discussion. If you can't adjust the ESC to fit your needs, you need a better ESC.
Batteries: lets presume that you're new to the hobby, since you don't have a buttload of NiMH/NiCd packs and a charger for them, you're buying a charger and batteries anyway. GO LIPO. Yes, they cost more. It's because they're worth it. Stick to reputable packs that you can buy places like towerhobbies.com, or buy maxamps.com packs.
Stick to 2S or 3S packs (I'd stick to 2S personally) and you want the highest possible "C" rating for discharge capacity. The C rating is the number of times the amperage rating of the battery that the battery can discharge in a burst rate safely. This means a 2S LIPO that's a 5000mah pack, with a 30C burst rating, can discharge a burst of 150A constantly. If the same battery had a 20C constant, the battery could deliver 100A constant load.
The reason it's important to have the largest C rated battery possible, is because with a high rated battery, you can drop battery size (and thus weight). You're giving up run time, but, on most rigs, a 2S 5000mah pack should last you 12-14 hours of constant usage. No real need for that size. A 1200-1500mah pack is plenty.
Get a GOOD charger, I recommend the Triton EQ2, in an AC/DC model. You'll also need charging connectors.
Wiring/Connectors: be ready to switch out to Deans brand high current connectors, they're worth the few dollars you'll spend.
Servos: here's the HUGE money pit. You want the strongest and fastest servo you can afford, metal geared is good, titanium geared is better. 300oz/in is your MINIMUM mark and 0.18sec is the SLOWEST you want.
BEC: this is an essential piece of electronics. Castle Creations makes a great one. The function of a BEC is to isolate power direct from the battery to run the radio and servos, rather than running through the ESC's onboard BEC, as the onboard usually only pushes a minimal amount of amperage, and, if the motor is bogging, or battery is getting low, you can lose radio connection and you WILL lose a lot of juice to your servo(s) as well.
This should be a good start to help the ideas flow...rather than jumping blindly into a very expensive hobby...
First things first, decide if you want a "scaler" or a "comp" style crawler.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages, and, both also come with their own "rules" if you're going to run with any groups that play by USRCCA rules.
Comp crawlers are usually radical looking beasts with huge tires and awesome flex and crawling capabilities. You can find MOA (Motor On Axle) rigs that can drive nearly anywhere (axial xr10 is an example), and, with the correct setup on electronics, you can run front and rear axles independent of each other. In "super class" you get into massive rigs where 4 wheel steering is legal too. You have shaft driven comp rigs (AX10) as well. They can be made to perform awesomely, but, because they have a centrally located motor and transmission (and sometimes a dig), their weight distribution isn't as good, and are usually more top heavy.
Scale crawlers are half model, half crawler, and should look and drive like a 1:1 scale vehicle. The SCX10 is a good example of that.
You also have the guys that're in between, like the axial wraith. THESE are where I'd go personally. I love the wraith, and, if I didn't already have 2 custom builds, I'd be buying a wraith kit.
here are a few links...all are RTR's
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTDC&P=ML
Rubicon SCX10
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBWEP&P=ML
Honcho SCX10 (truggy style rig)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAZUT&P=ML
Wraith
Now, I'd suggest keeping an open mind, and doing a kit version instead.
(The only exception is if the RTR is both 2.4GHz and Waterproof.)
The kit won't have any electronics, but, that's typically ok, because, you're going to want to improve the stock "crap" anyway. It's also not preassembled, which means, you'll know exactly how everything goes together and comes apart so when you need to fix things, you're already familiar.
Kits typically include upgraded parts over RTR's, and, when you grab the parts that aren't already upgraded (steering knuckles and C hubs for starters, CVD shafts if not already included for the second point, do them both right away, they're your most commonly destroyed parts)
For the REST of the story:
Radio: if it isn't a frequency hopping 2.4ghz one, you don't want it. Upgrade. Interference between rigs is annoying as hell, and, potentially dangerous and costly.
ESC: make sure it's tunable. End of discussion. If you can't adjust the ESC to fit your needs, you need a better ESC.
Batteries: lets presume that you're new to the hobby, since you don't have a buttload of NiMH/NiCd packs and a charger for them, you're buying a charger and batteries anyway. GO LIPO. Yes, they cost more. It's because they're worth it. Stick to reputable packs that you can buy places like towerhobbies.com, or buy maxamps.com packs.
Stick to 2S or 3S packs (I'd stick to 2S personally) and you want the highest possible "C" rating for discharge capacity. The C rating is the number of times the amperage rating of the battery that the battery can discharge in a burst rate safely. This means a 2S LIPO that's a 5000mah pack, with a 30C burst rating, can discharge a burst of 150A constantly. If the same battery had a 20C constant, the battery could deliver 100A constant load.
The reason it's important to have the largest C rated battery possible, is because with a high rated battery, you can drop battery size (and thus weight). You're giving up run time, but, on most rigs, a 2S 5000mah pack should last you 12-14 hours of constant usage. No real need for that size. A 1200-1500mah pack is plenty.
Get a GOOD charger, I recommend the Triton EQ2, in an AC/DC model. You'll also need charging connectors.
Wiring/Connectors: be ready to switch out to Deans brand high current connectors, they're worth the few dollars you'll spend.
Servos: here's the HUGE money pit. You want the strongest and fastest servo you can afford, metal geared is good, titanium geared is better. 300oz/in is your MINIMUM mark and 0.18sec is the SLOWEST you want.
BEC: this is an essential piece of electronics. Castle Creations makes a great one. The function of a BEC is to isolate power direct from the battery to run the radio and servos, rather than running through the ESC's onboard BEC, as the onboard usually only pushes a minimal amount of amperage, and, if the motor is bogging, or battery is getting low, you can lose radio connection and you WILL lose a lot of juice to your servo(s) as well.
This should be a good start to help the ideas flow...rather than jumping blindly into a very expensive hobby...
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