- Location
- Morristown, NJ
This is NOT a How-to thread for the titan swap itself. I have already made that thread HERE. :drink:
I can't even count the threads asking about TS pricing...or the PM's I've gotten on how much my setup costs....so, without further adieu, this thread is for those souls who don't want to do the research and are disparately trying to piece together a titan swap...
Now. first thing's first....decide how you want to use your TS and your budget. There are almost infinite options for this setup...and equally as many places to get parts from...so I'm not going to sit here in my chair and be able to tell you exactly how much this shizzle is going to cost. I don't effin know. It depends on if you install OEM coils with spacers in your rig vs TOP of the line 2.5 ext rez S.A.W. coilovers....or PRG vs. OEM uppers....ect.
lets roll.
The M205:
First things first. lets start with the core of the swap (if you are 4x4 and would like to keep your rig that way). The glorious M205:
a sexy ass 8" ring gear aluminum carrier that will keep your truck moving on the trail through thick and thin...
This unit can cost you anywhere from 350 bucks used - 1300 or so for a new unit (from Brian-Jerseyparts..and only if he likes you )
www.car-part.com is a great place to look for this diff and units typically range from 500-950 bucks used. I would say look for a 07+ diff with under 50k on it if at all possible. That should prob fetch an average of 700-800 bucks or so...but again...every place and location will sell it for a different price. I would also inspect the gear rotation and the seals if at all possible and you are getting the diff locally.
It gets a little trickier...but not much...
Some time in 07 Nissan, with all their little bags of tricks, decided to have DANA redesign the Diff to be stronger...and to have larger pullout force C-Clips (1000N instead of 600N). You can easily spot a new gen (stronger) M205 but a third rib on the outer structure of the diff. This ribbing runs laterally on the diff casing and can be seen in the following thread which goes overs the differences in depth:
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24697&highlight=M205+differences
Old Style:
New Version:
You SHOULD replace the seals on both sides of this dif if you buy it used. The seals are 20 bucks each from cherry hill and easy to install.
The Spindles:
This part is really easy because...STOCK SPINDLES WORK! You can also use titan spindles but you will need to upgrade the brakes and will need new hubs to use them.
The UCA's:
You have two options...plain and simple. PRG and OEM.
PRG Uppers = $600 or so from greg at www.prgproducts.com
OEM can be had for anywhere from 25-75 dollars at junkyards on car-parts.com. Make sure you know how many miles are on these, as the ball joints can be worn out on higher mileage units. Cherry hill will also stock them however, I do not know the price of a new OEM unit from nissan. My guess is NOT 50 bucks...
The ball joints CAN be replaced with MOOG parts if you get one for a steal with a trashed joint.
The LCA's:
For most, the OEM lower control arms are just fine. You can get them new(ish) for a little over 100 or so on rockauto.com and for about 50-75 bucks each if you search on www.car-part.com.
The Steering System Extensions:
Two options...plain and simple. The titan MOOG inner and outer tie rod replacements (maybe Sleeper00 can get us a part number) or the PRG tie rod extenders from Greg. I am not sure how much the MOOG kit costs, however it would assume it is a bit more expensive than the extenders from PRG which run about 60-70 bucks or so.
Links for Options:
*MOOG steering stuff (you will need inner and outers for BOTH sides) - http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/tie_rod/nissan/titan.html
-MOOG Part # EV800216 (Inner)
-MOOG Part # ES800032 (Outer)
This setup will run ~ $75 - $80
*PRG Tie Rod Extenders - www.prgproducts.com (ask greg for them...it's a special part)
The Brake Lines:
You have two options:
*OEM Titan Brake Lines - they are only good to about 8" of wheel travel or so, however, for milder titan swaps they will work and are cheap. I recommend just upgrading to the stainless though.
*PRG Stainless Steel Brake Lines. The Xterra ones work just fine for the titan swap.
You can get a set right here:
http://www.prgproducts.com/shop/product/braided_stainless_front_brake_lines_-_xterra/
or just give Greg a call and order them.
The Coilovers:
This one is neverending...with MANY different options and many different price points. There rule of thumb here is....if it fits in an Xterra...it will work with the titan swap. Titan's have different coilbuckets that we do...so we still need to use a coilover with the correct bolt pattern for our coil bucket...regardless of what suspension we are running. plain and simple.
"Can I use a titan coilover with the titan swap?" NO! :cheers:
this can range anwhere from 60-70 bucks (alldayfab spacer) to $1400+ (ext rez 2.5 S.A.W. Racerunner coilover with baddassery written all over it!)
The Halfaxles:
Couple options here...but all the same part more or less. You can buy them New...and sell your house and children to do so (man they are $$$$$$$$!!!)
buy them from Rockauto.com remanned for 50-60 bucks each (what I recommend and what I actually do)
Or get them from a Junkyard (car-part.com) for 50-100 bucks used.
Sample Material List From the First Iteration of my Swap:
1.) Titan M205 (if you are doing the drivetrain swap)
2.) Titan CV Halfshafts x2 (if you are doing the suspension AND drivetrain swap) OR Pathfinder V8 halfshafts x2 (if you are retaining the stock track width)
3.) Titan Upper control arms x2 - right and left (either PRG or Stock)
4.) Titan Lower Control Arms x2 - right and left (stock)
5.) (12) M205 Halfshaft Flange bolts (call brian at Cherry hill Part# 39606-17V0A)
6.) (3) 19mm Diff/Frame Bolts (Part #: 54726-7S000) (to replace the old ones...do not reuse the old ones.) You will need nuts for two of these. (Part #: 08918-3442A) the third one uses a nut that is welded into the frame itself....(you can get all this from Brian at cherry hill)
7.) (8) 14mm new front DS bolts (Part #: 37120-4P00A) /nuts (Part #: 37171-7S00A) (call brian)
8.) (2) new 32mm halfaxle/hub nuts (brian at cherry hill) (Part #: 40262-A60001)
9.) optional - M205 flange seals (Part#: 38542N)
10.) 2.0 Radflo Coilovers ($800 shipped roughly...from PRG)
11.) 3 quarts of 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil (if you are swapping in an M205)
12.) 3 quarts of 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil (if you are swapping in an M226)13.) PRG tie rod extensions (call Greg and ask for them)
13.) E-locker Wiring Harness (if you opted to swap in an M226 w/ E-locker) (Part#:24168-EA800)
so as you can see....the options are limitless. it is up to you to determine what kind of coin you have...and what you need your TS to do for you! Good luck and happy modding!! :cheers:
Please feel free to add anything you feel I may have missed!!
-Rook
I can't even count the threads asking about TS pricing...or the PM's I've gotten on how much my setup costs....so, without further adieu, this thread is for those souls who don't want to do the research and are disparately trying to piece together a titan swap...
Now. first thing's first....decide how you want to use your TS and your budget. There are almost infinite options for this setup...and equally as many places to get parts from...so I'm not going to sit here in my chair and be able to tell you exactly how much this shizzle is going to cost. I don't effin know. It depends on if you install OEM coils with spacers in your rig vs TOP of the line 2.5 ext rez S.A.W. coilovers....or PRG vs. OEM uppers....ect.
lets roll.
The M205:
First things first. lets start with the core of the swap (if you are 4x4 and would like to keep your rig that way). The glorious M205:
a sexy ass 8" ring gear aluminum carrier that will keep your truck moving on the trail through thick and thin...
This unit can cost you anywhere from 350 bucks used - 1300 or so for a new unit (from Brian-Jerseyparts..and only if he likes you
)www.car-part.com is a great place to look for this diff and units typically range from 500-950 bucks used. I would say look for a 07+ diff with under 50k on it if at all possible. That should prob fetch an average of 700-800 bucks or so...but again...every place and location will sell it for a different price. I would also inspect the gear rotation and the seals if at all possible and you are getting the diff locally.
It gets a little trickier...but not much...
Some time in 07 Nissan, with all their little bags of tricks, decided to have DANA redesign the Diff to be stronger...and to have larger pullout force C-Clips (1000N instead of 600N). You can easily spot a new gen (stronger) M205 but a third rib on the outer structure of the diff. This ribbing runs laterally on the diff casing and can be seen in the following thread which goes overs the differences in depth:
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24697&highlight=M205+differences
Old Style:
New Version:
You SHOULD replace the seals on both sides of this dif if you buy it used. The seals are 20 bucks each from cherry hill and easy to install.
The Spindles:
This part is really easy because...STOCK SPINDLES WORK!
You can also use titan spindles but you will need to upgrade the brakes and will need new hubs to use them.The UCA's:
You have two options...plain and simple. PRG and OEM.
PRG Uppers = $600 or so from greg at www.prgproducts.com
OEM can be had for anywhere from 25-75 dollars at junkyards on car-parts.com. Make sure you know how many miles are on these, as the ball joints can be worn out on higher mileage units. Cherry hill will also stock them however, I do not know the price of a new OEM unit from nissan. My guess is NOT 50 bucks...
The ball joints CAN be replaced with MOOG parts if you get one for a steal with a trashed joint.
The LCA's:
For most, the OEM lower control arms are just fine. You can get them new(ish) for a little over 100 or so on rockauto.com and for about 50-75 bucks each if you search on www.car-part.com.
The Steering System Extensions:
Two options...plain and simple. The titan MOOG inner and outer tie rod replacements (maybe Sleeper00 can get us a part number) or the PRG tie rod extenders from Greg. I am not sure how much the MOOG kit costs, however it would assume it is a bit more expensive than the extenders from PRG which run about 60-70 bucks or so.
Links for Options:
*MOOG steering stuff (you will need inner and outers for BOTH sides) - http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/tie_rod/nissan/titan.html
-MOOG Part # EV800216 (Inner)
-MOOG Part # ES800032 (Outer)
This setup will run ~ $75 - $80
*PRG Tie Rod Extenders - www.prgproducts.com (ask greg for them...it's a special part)
The Brake Lines:
You have two options:
*OEM Titan Brake Lines - they are only good to about 8" of wheel travel or so, however, for milder titan swaps they will work and are cheap. I recommend just upgrading to the stainless though.
*PRG Stainless Steel Brake Lines. The Xterra ones work just fine for the titan swap.
You can get a set right here:
http://www.prgproducts.com/shop/product/braided_stainless_front_brake_lines_-_xterra/
or just give Greg a call and order them.
The Coilovers:
This one is neverending...with MANY different options and many different price points. There rule of thumb here is....if it fits in an Xterra...it will work with the titan swap. Titan's have different coilbuckets that we do...so we still need to use a coilover with the correct bolt pattern for our coil bucket...regardless of what suspension we are running. plain and simple.
"Can I use a titan coilover with the titan swap?" NO! :cheers:
this can range anwhere from 60-70 bucks (alldayfab spacer) to $1400+ (ext rez 2.5 S.A.W. Racerunner coilover with baddassery written all over it!)
The Halfaxles:
Couple options here...but all the same part more or less. You can buy them New...and sell your house and children to do so (man they are $$$$$$$$!!!)
buy them from Rockauto.com remanned for 50-60 bucks each (what I recommend and what I actually do)
Or get them from a Junkyard (car-part.com) for 50-100 bucks used.
Sample Material List From the First Iteration of my Swap:
1.) Titan M205 (if you are doing the drivetrain swap)
2.) Titan CV Halfshafts x2 (if you are doing the suspension AND drivetrain swap) OR Pathfinder V8 halfshafts x2 (if you are retaining the stock track width)
3.) Titan Upper control arms x2 - right and left (either PRG or Stock)
4.) Titan Lower Control Arms x2 - right and left (stock)
5.) (12) M205 Halfshaft Flange bolts (call brian at Cherry hill Part# 39606-17V0A)
6.) (3) 19mm Diff/Frame Bolts (Part #: 54726-7S000) (to replace the old ones...do not reuse the old ones.) You will need nuts for two of these. (Part #: 08918-3442A) the third one uses a nut that is welded into the frame itself....(you can get all this from Brian at cherry hill)
7.) (8) 14mm new front DS bolts (Part #: 37120-4P00A) /nuts (Part #: 37171-7S00A) (call brian)
8.) (2) new 32mm halfaxle/hub nuts (brian at cherry hill) (Part #: 40262-A60001)
9.) optional - M205 flange seals (Part#: 38542N)
10.) 2.0 Radflo Coilovers ($800 shipped roughly...from PRG)
11.) 3 quarts of 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil (if you are swapping in an M205)
12.) 3 quarts of 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil (if you are swapping in an M226)13.) PRG tie rod extensions (call Greg and ask for them)
13.) E-locker Wiring Harness (if you opted to swap in an M226 w/ E-locker) (Part#:24168-EA800)
so as you can see....the options are limitless. it is up to you to determine what kind of coin you have...and what you need your TS to do for you! Good luck and happy modding!! :cheers:
Please feel free to add anything you feel I may have missed!!
-Rook
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