SAS Axles

[SASXA]

Okay so I'm running a ford f250 axle housing with Wagoneer inner axle shafts and chevy 3/4 outter stub shafts. All are yukon chromoly shafts. I have a question, I just broke my outer shaft off at the hub. Well inside the locking hub I took it all apart and found the last 2 inches broke off, on the splines, anyone have any other recommendation for an outer stub shaft? I'm having a hard time beliving I still broke it before a locking hub or my already half broken driveshaft and I'm thinking it's a manufacturing defect that broke it. Below is a picture of the end that's broken off because the axle shaft isn't out yet.

 

[outlaw_xterra]

that sucks

 

[NismoFire]

Holy torque, Batman! In for an answer.

 

[granitex]

I would just replace it with the exact same thing, I know a couple of guys running that same setup with 37's and a lot of skinny peddle to go with it.

Is this the first time that you have broken it?

what was the situation behind it.

 

[SASXA]

First axle shaft ever broke on this vehicle since it being built. I wasn't actually on it hard at all when it broke either I had just gotten to the hill and when I pressed the gas they said my driver tire wasn't spinning so I got out re locked it and went at it again, ended up having to take the bypass and I almost flopped it on the bypass because the tire hit a small rut I didn't see and when I slid down to hit it a little harder the front went back faster then the rear and slid me sideways. Sent an email to yukon about it since it broke at a very weird spot.

 

[drbandkgb]

What ever you did it bent that's for sure...

 

[SASXA]

I sent them an email saying what a great product it is for the last like 2-3 years, but sadly I won't be able to afford another. Off to junkyard to buy $100 in spare parts. 3 hubs, and an extra of each axle shaft and another drive shaft for the front. One of them things. Got yukon gears and u joints and every axle shaft in the rig. Gonna change out my weak point to the hubs, someone said mile marker are the cheapest to pick up new or I can go to a JY. People that are sas! Spare parts! I'd also recommend yukon to anyone they've put up with 4+ years of stress on gears and 2+ years on axle shafts and u joints!

 

[midget]

Honestly Ive read alot of bad reveiws on Yukon products. It doesnt mean there bad but your not the only one having issues with them.

 

[Powerguy37]

I've never broken a shaft yet and I get into it quite a bit. I'm running chromoly inners and stock outers with 35's. I've put a lot of stress on it over the past few years without snapping one. Seems to me it is a defect in the shaft for it to break like that.

My thought process on running stock outers is that it will be the week point and break before trashing something more expensive. Replacing the stub shaft is a whole lot cheaper than hubs or gears.

 

[TKDx00]

I don't know what the length of the OEM axles are but I see people using wheel spacers. My guess is to push the wheels out 2-3 inches further. Can someone explain to me... If you get solid axles 2-3 inches longer than stock wouldn't they still work? I understand the Calmini swap is designed for a specific axle but wouldn't it or something similar still work?

 

[TheFauxFox]

I don't know what the length of the OEM axles are but I see people using wheel spacers. My guess is to push the wheels out 2-3 inches further. Can someone explain to me... If you get solid axles 2-3 inches longer than stock wouldn't they still work? I understand the Calmini swap is designed for a specific axle but wouldn't it or something similar still work?

Spacers are usually used in the FRONT with Waggy axles. If I recall the measurements, the WMS is 60.5" whereas our h233b axles are 62.5". Reason two is because the brake calipers on the Waggy axles (can't speak for other axles) will not allow for us to fit our stock 15" rims, though, I think 16" will work.

 

[TKDx00]

Spacers are usually used in the FRONT with Waggy axles. If I recall the measurements, the WMS is 60.5" whereas our h233b axles are 62.5". Reason two is because the brake calipers on the Waggy axles (can't speak for other axles) will not allow for us to fit our stock 15" rims, though, I think 16" will work.

I understand. What about those that get custom axles? I'm guessing if you pay for it you can get whatever you want. So is it fair to say getting a front axle made or purchasing a D44's or D60's @ 62.5 will negate the need for spacers or does the axle need to be 64.5? Or do I still need more skoolin?

 

[TheFauxFox]

I understand. What about those that get custom axles? I'm guessing if you pay for it you can get whatever you want. So is it fair to say getting a front axle made or purchasing a D44's or D60's @ 62.5 will negate the need for spacers or does the axle need to be 64.5? Or do I still need more skoolin?

I'd bet you'd get what you want with customs. Lookin to buy?

 

[AZhiAZiAM]

if anyone is near cali, there is a guy around here that builds axles anyway you want it. good prices too.

 

[TKDx00]

I got bitten by the SAS bug while I was looking for engine gaskets. Gaskets led to a 302 v8 which led to a subframe which led to steering which led to axles which led to D44s which led to D60s which led to 35s which led to regearing which led to TC gears which led to... I'm still being led...lol

 

[NMTerras]

Greg, the more I try to learn about swapping the more I learn I need to learn...

The best setups I've seen are 63" wms to wms...the trick is finding axles that are the right width with the right lug pattern, or going custom. If you really want to see a pic-heavy how to (pics help me more than words) go check out alpine spirits build thread on ronin wheelers, starting page 8.

The calmini kit is designed to go with a narrower axle (early 80s wagoneer) that is a little narrow, thus the need for spacers. My preference is a something at stock (62.5) or slightly wider, because id like to ieep my h233b rear, thus I search and search for a donor...

 

[TheFauxFox]

I'd bet you'd get what you want with customs. Lookin to buy?

Cough cough, I have a 44 ready to go...

 

[NMTerras]

Cough cough, I have a 44 ready to go...

Tell me more...

 

[NMTerras]

Donor vehicle? Width?

 

[TheFauxFox]

Donor vehicle? Width?

D44 from a Waggy
-spacers
-5.13 geared
-Has coil buckets but I also have coil overs + mounts
-and a lot more. Like I said, pretty much ready to go.

 

[Alpine Spirit]

Size of spacers?? Any other mounts on the axle?

 

[NMTerras]

No spacers for me...holding out for an axle that doesn't need em.

 

[TheFauxFox]

PM me about it if you're interested. 1.5".

[/threadjack]

 

[Alpine Spirit]

Gonna be hard to find the right width with a drivers side drop for the Tcase.

As for the spacers I figured folks would want to know, I have a few sets from different revisions to the truck.

 

[NMTerras]

Gonna be hard to find the right width with a drivers side drop for the Tcase.

As for the spacers I figured folks would want to know, I have a few sets from different revisions to the truck.

Oh I know...and I know how your crew solved it. Working on something similar. Or completely different. Hard to say at this point!

 

[AZhiAZiAM]

I gotta say, if your looking for the perfect axle width, without a HUGE cost of custom then I would suggest the HP D44 out of a 77ish Ford F150 (I think 150, might be a 250) with the weld on wedges. You can then cut the long side down (or have a shop do it for minimal cost) by roughly 2 inches. This gives you and axle that is 63 wide (running waggy knuckles). The really cool thing about this is that you can run a standard waggy long side shaft in the now shorted long side and a regular Ford shaft in the short side. No need for custom cut axle shafts. Just a thought (though if you have read Kevin's build then probably already know all this)

i believe the 70's were the f250's. i was looking at one for a ranger. the trimming was very minimal like you said.

 

[NMTerras]

Yup I'm on the lookout for one of those

 

[AZhiAZiAM]

Yup I'm on the lookout for one of those

they are all over the central valley :/

 

[ChiXterra]

i believe the 70's were the f250's. i was looking at one for a ranger. the trimming was very minimal like you said.

You'll want a 1978/79 D44 out of the the F-150 or Full Size Bronco. Those years had a disc brake system up front. Also, if you don't want to trim the tube down, then run a Ford 9" rear, works out to be the same width, which will give the truck a wider stance. Even with the wedges, I recommend cutting down the stock radius arms and sleeving DOM onto them. That's if you still want to use a radius arm setup. This will allow for heims at the rear of the arms with a nice frame mount. Unfortunately, that D44 would be hard pressed to use anything other than the stock radius arm mount due to the cast wedges.


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[NMTerras]

That's an option. Also considering splashing for an h233b diamond front and keeping the stock h233b rear. Research phase is ongoing...

 

[TKDx00]

That's an option. Also considering splashing for an h233b diamond front and keeping the stock h233b rear. Research phase is ongoing...

A little birdie told me that one of our sponcers is in the process of turning our H233B into a front axle. But it's several months down the road still..shhhhhh. And you didn't hear/see this from me.

 

[NMTerras]

^^ RR sells an H233B diamond axle housing right now. In terms of a full kit, it's down the road a ways still as I understand it. But, as part of a custom fabbed set up, it should be good to go now

 

[SASXA]

I would be careful on what 78-79 ford truck you get the hp or hd d44 or d60 you get, I believe most of them have cast mounts on them. Cast mounts are usually the down fall of those axles, don't ask me why but people recommend not getting them unless everything is set-up pretty much the same. But the hp44 in the f150's don't have high steer. The d44 out of f250s comes with high pinions and high steer, don't take my word for it but I believe they also have reverse cut gears. And some f250's also have the d60 high pinion and high steer.

 

[ChiXterra]

I would be careful on what 78-79 ford truck you get the hp or hd d44 or d60 you get, I believe most of them have cast mounts on them. Cast mounts are usually the down fall of those axles, don't ask me why but people recommend not getting them unless everything is set-up pretty much the same. But the hp44 in the f150's don't have high steer. The d44 out of f250s comes with high pinions and high steer, don't take my word for it but I believe they also have reverse cut gears. And some f250's also have the d60 high pinion and high steer.

They indeed are cast onto the tubes, but would work. You can cut down the stock radius arms, and splice DOM onto them. You'd then run the DOM with Heims and mounts to the frame. You are forced to run coilovers on those axles though. The D44 is reverse rotation, because they flipped the rear D44 to make it work, and reverse rotation gears are a bit stronger as consequence.


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