- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
What do you guys use to clean/clear out rusted threads in the hole that now needs a bolt in it? PB?
Rusted bolt threads
- Thread starter TKDx00
- Start date
- Location
- New Mexico
I keep a small selection of plug taps in common sizes for chasing out threaded holes. Whenever I feel even the slightest bit of "drag" when loosening a fastener, I run the tap over the threads and clean everything up with WD-40 or Kroil.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
The title is misleading... It should read "Rusted Bolt HOLE threads" my apologies.
AND actually, I've dsecided to weld these puppies on instead of bolting them. But thanks for the WD-40, KROIL and Vineger.
AND actually, I've dsecided to weld these puppies on instead of bolting them. But thanks for the WD-40, KROIL and Vineger.
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- Location
- New Mexico
The tap really does all of the cleaning, the WD-40/Kroil just cleans out the particles. If I were tapping new threads, I would want to buy the high quality taps but for chasing out existing holes, a cheapo harbor freight set would work very well.
-Rok
-Rok
- Location
- Columbus OH
I like using a little bit of grease as a cutting oil, it helps lube the bit and it tends to hold on to the shavings and what not. If you do not have a tap you can cut a slot in a bolt and use it as a tap to clean out the threads, it will not cut new ones, but it will clean out old ones.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Great tips from all. Thanks. I got frustrated while putting on the sliders. The new bolts wouldn't go into the holes that are located next to the leaf pack support bracket. That's when I found the rust. So I started welding them on. lol. Ran out of light after doing a few of the Grandpa things. Can't say no to them. lol
- Location
- Greenville SC
I use thread chasers, I have a set that I use all the time when its not getting borrowed by my friends who take them all the time. They are like dull taps, they won't cut new threads so you don't have to worry about a sharp tap messing up your hole, and they usually start easier than a tap, they will reform slightly messed up threads. They have saved my butt numerous times on
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Thanks Mirage...I think I'll look into those.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Gonna post this here...
Does anyone know what the bolt size is for the Idler Arm? There are 3 that hold it on and one at the bottom. The 2 front ones of the 3 need to be removed to add the brace the rear just needs to be loosned. Anyway the 2 that need to be removed are RUST WELDED on and need to be cut off. So far other bolts I have cut on the X have been 1/2" of various lengths. I trying to find out if that is the same with these so I can replace them with Grade8.
Does anyone know what the bolt size is for the Idler Arm? There are 3 that hold it on and one at the bottom. The 2 front ones of the 3 need to be removed to add the brace the rear just needs to be loosned. Anyway the 2 that need to be removed are RUST WELDED on and need to be cut off. So far other bolts I have cut on the X have been 1/2" of various lengths. I trying to find out if that is the same with these so I can replace them with Grade8.
- Location
- machesney park IL
I believe they are 10mm 1.50pitch which is closer to a 7/16" I'll have to look after work.
- Location
- Washington
They might be close but everything on the X is metric. IIRC at least two of the idler arm bolts go right through the frame to a nut so you can replace it with the biggest SAE bolt you can get that will fit. Not sure on the 3rd.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Those are the 2 I'm talking about. I said 1/2" because those are the ones I can get pretty easy. The Metric ones are harder to find and more expensive. I can get standard Grade8 1/2" bolt, nut, flat and lock washers for just about the price of the metric bolt alone.
- Location
- Washington
Gotcha I thought you meant that you've cut off 1/2" bolts from the X.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
I'm taking the advice of a couple of owners here with trucks I like. They've said to replace the rusted bolts when you upgrade. So bolts like these that are NOT thread specific and simply fit thru a hole to a nut, I'm replacing with standard Grade8 1/2" cause I get a little deal on 'em. Every little bit helps the cause.
- Location
- New Mexico
You may want to measure the hole diameters before you buy the bolts. The closest inch size to a 10mm bolt is 3/8" and that's about .020" bigger than the 10mm.
- Location
- Greenville SC
Something to think about here, not a big worry with the idler arm bolts, but if you start doing that to more things, but now you need to carry twice as many tools if you haul them around with you on the trails. I only carry metric with me because that is whats on my car and truck, my tool bag has enough in it without adding SAE stuff. Also its another reason I hate working on fords and chevy's because you end up playing the is it metric or standard game with some fasteners.
- Location
- S.Subs of Chicago, IL.
Mirage, up to this point I've owned at one time or another 11 vehicles: 1 Nissan(Xterra), 2 Fords(Bronco, Crown Vic), 3 Chevys(2 Luminas, Caprice Classic), 5 Toyotas (4 Celicas, 1 Corolla). I actually have just as many Standard tools as Metric. So I have 2 bags of tools ready the drop in the back when needed.