Removing leafs

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Okay so I think I was in over my head with the 3 leaf AAL I think it may have been too much lift in the rear. Is there any way to just remove one of the 3 leafs of the kit or will I have to take them off all together. I don't know if it helps any but I plan on doing the rear tire carrier and a fridge in the back here soon.

I don't think it will be enough to bring it down that much but I have cranked on my torsion bars to where I have a half inch of gap with the low profile bump stops installed and the rake is still crazy.

I also just installed revolvers in the rear but I don't think it makes a difference. My stock springs must have still been good. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1432418002.407581.jpg
 

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Yeah that's what I was thinking I was just trying to run it through you guys to see if it was possible. Will removing one of the factory leafs make a big difference?

I'm asking because I plan on getting the tire carrier and a fridge and I know the leafs will probably settle a little since they are new but do you think they will settle enough?
 
Yeah that's what I was thinking I was just trying to run it through you guys to see if it was possible. Will removing one of the factory leafs make a big difference?

I'm asking because I plan on getting the tire carrier and a fridge and I know the leafs will probably settle a little since they are new but do you think they will settle enough?

I wish I could be of help... My AALs from 4x4parts is sitting under my bed with the rest of my lift. But it looks to be that you can take one leaf off of the AAL. But as to it settles, from what i've read, it settles very little bit nothing major. If you plan on getting a tire carrier/fridge... I would keep it on. Thats my two cents. But it's all up to you buddy.
 

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Hope that's a good enough picture, I also have to adjust the torsion bars a little more the right side is sitting slightly higher than the left side. And I am in desperate need of an alignment. Pulls hard to the left, camber and toe are out, and when I turn right it makes like a whurring sound if that makes sense.

I suppose I might have to remove one leaf and some other things to finish it all up.
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
Has the front already been lifted to the max?
Sounds like it's lifted too much up front to me.

If you have low profile bumpstops and only have 1/2 inch gap you will not be able to get it aligned properly. It might be ok to drive but you will have a positive camber and chew up the outside edge of your tire. Also looks like you still have about the same rake or less than my truck.
 

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Prime- well as intender stated I have the low profile bump stops installed, and I cranked on the torsion bars until I measured half inch bump stop gap, so I'm guessing yeah it's maxed out.

Intender- you nailed it, I have negative camber on my front passenger side tire. What would you recommend doing?

I still have to change my tie rod ends on both sides (should have done it while I was in there but I was in a hurry to get it out of the shop) anyway, I am going to install my body lift tomorrow and do the tie rods, but advice is highly appreciated and in dire need of. So the rake is normal from rear to front? Like if I'm looking at the body on the bottom it looks straight but personal preference tells me to lower the rear down and try to even it out but I mean I'm all about function over form. I just want it to perform good and look good, if at all possible by lowering it some, but if you could Barney it to me some since I'm very new to the off road community, how is the front too high? And how do I correct my issues.

If it helps any I am going to do my body lift like I said tomorrow and than get my 33s

And my current parts list is as follows:

4x4 parts 3 leaf AAL with overload removed
Revolver shackles
Bilstein 0-3in shocks front and rear
Upper control arms
4x4 parts TRA
Calmini idler arm brace
Bandit IA bushings
Centric drilled slotted rotors
EBC green stuff pads
Front and rear SS extended brake lines

Hopefully that helps
 
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USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Any inputs? Sorry to be pushy on this post guys but I plan on getting most of this work done tomorrow since I am going underway soon and want to get this out of the way
 

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
personally I would remove the shortest leaf in the pack and see where that leaves you. For articulation, longer thinner leaves work better than shorter ones with more arch. Braking down a spring pack is really not a bad job, just remember to use new u-bolts when you re-assemble everything, and a new center pin.
 

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Okay now for that job, can I go to like a regular auto parts store and buy some of the u bolts they sell there or would you just recommend buying them from 4x4 parts. I know I've heard you guys say to always replace them, does it matter if I've only driven maybe 3 miles on them since install?

And also where do I buy the center pin at?
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
I'd wait and see what the added weight does before messing with it.

:D

Everything may settle, plus, adding weight reduces lift.

You WANT the front ~ 1.5" lower than the rear...but, you do need to lower the front enough to be able to get a decent alignment. That bumpstop gap is a reference point, and, if you change stops, you have to also change your reference point.

IE: If the low profile stop is 1/2" shorter than the OEM one, you need ~ 1" of UCA gap instead of at least 1/2" (I don't know which new stops you added...but you can measure the difference if that helps)

If you lower the front a bit as you need to, it will also change your rear lift height.

As you have a lot of variables, do one at a time so you can see what is going on/reduce the trial and error aspect.
 
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Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
As for the froont lift being too high. The 1/2 inch bumpstop gap is with the factory bumpstops. With low profiles thats prabably about an 1/8 too far. I know several guys that drive around with less than that, its just more than suggested.
 

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Okay than so as far as the bump stop issue goes, I understand what you guys are saying now, I got the low profile ones from 4x4 parts. So raise the front about another half inch to get the bump stop gap correct for the aftermarket bump stops.

As far as leafs go, I think I may give it just a little to see how far it settles with the tire carrier and fridge/freezer along with my other every day carry stuff.

So now with me lowering it in the front how exactly will I achieve the full 3 inches of lift to get a more even look?
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Okay than so as far as the bump stop issue goes, I understand what you guys are saying now, I got the low profile ones from 4x4 parts. So raise the front about another half inch to get the bump stop gap correct for the aftermarket bump stops.

As far as leafs go, I think I may give it just a little to see how far it settles with the tire carrier and fridge/freezer along with my other every day carry stuff.

So now with me lowering it in the front how exactly will I achieve the full 3 inches of lift to get a more even look?


Assuming you have new UCA for that 3" front lift, you will HAVE a 3" front lift if you adjust the front UCA gap as described (LOWERING, not raising by the way...you're too high now)

The Revolvers add almost nothing...but, I THINK you are saying you didn't realize you WANT the front ~ 1.5" lower so you get better mpg and handling/braking?

(IE: A little while ago, you wanted it "level")

:D
 

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
I do have the upper control arms.

Okay yeah I had no idea, understanding the suspension geometry and how all this works on a lifted vehicle is very new [emoji1]

Yeah the revolvers brought the rear down a little from the old adjustable shackles

Yeah I definitely would like it level, so by adjusting the front upper control arm gap to 1inch is how I am going to achieve that?
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
You dont even need to go to 1 inch. Probably 3/4 would be plenty. Thats assuming you have the low profile bumpstops and not the ultra low profile ones.

And if you lower the rear end it will bring the nose up some. Making it more level. In this case the front tires are the fulcrum point in a lever. As you lift the rear it pivots the nose down. If you drop the rear it will bring the nose up. If you want it completely level you would probably have to remove the whole AAL.
 

USN X

Bought an X
Location
San diego
Yeah I just got the low profile ones from 4x4 parts, I think as far as the rake issue, I don't think it will ever be perfect without giving up some kind of gain, like the performance gain ( extra added weight I can handle with AAL) would not be worth taking off just for looks, I think it would be fine once I get the tire carrier and fridge for weight back there and once the springs settle in some. Me and a buddy put weight on the back and it bought it down decent enough to where I don't mind the look of it.
 
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