XterraGT's 2001 Build/Log

XterraGT Mar 15, 2014

  1. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    XterraGT's 2001 Build/Log (Pictures Ahead)

    This will be my build thread, but until I get everything associated with buying an aged vehicle taken care of don't expect too much in the way of mods. But I will try and document all work done to my new (to me) toy.


    My Xterra: 2001 XE all power options as far as I can tell, no sunroof. I have the window sticker and the dealer added options list too :D Consist of Teflon Paint Sealant, Undercoating, the striping package, and wheel locks for a total price of $25.444.90 out the door in October 2000 in Lancaster, PA. She's a V6, 5 speed, silver. 109,968 when I bought her, a little over 110,000 today. The dealer I bought it from did a full reconditioning at a seperate dealer, exterior, interior, and underhood.


    Today the X is going to sears for an alignment and tire balancing. I'm chasing a nasty vibration/shake in the wheel anywhere from 30 mph up most noticeable around 40. It's not always present but rears its head when the road is very bumpy. I have noticed she bounces a lot and Ive been driving 1/2 ton pickups for 7 years.


    There's also a vibration through the shifter in 3rd more noticeable the lower the RPM but a post in repair yielded no advice so I will keep everyone posted.


    I am making the dedication to try and perform all service I can myself including the timing belt/water job I've been reading and rereading. My current plan of attack is:


    -Timing Belt/Water Pump
    -Seafoam through intake
    -MT Oil (checking for metal from 3rd)
    -Engine Oil as needed with ZMaxx (I'll be running MaxLife)
    -Rear/Front/XCase Oil's
    -Plugs/Wires/Cap
    -O2's
    -TB/MAF cleaning
    -Reset ECU


    That should be a solid base and those items will be completed as time and money allow. After all that is done then its time for the more fun stuff right.


    Pics


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    And Post #2:

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    So the guy said alignment and balances were way off, these have made the drive better but the underlying shake still remains. Charlie on the FB group has pointed me towards U-Joints so they will be inspected next. The alignment and balancing was important as they are things I can't do in the driveway.


    Sears did note a tiny tiny PS leak unknown source, and a small oil leak unknown source. PS they believe is a hose clamp but I'll check further eventually. Oil I know is visible from the drivers underside appears to come from above bellhousing and runs back the middle of the trans before it drips, I'll trace that sometime. Their main recommendation was to do the PS belt but it was behind stuff so I let them know I'm doing the timing belt dont bother.


    Other than that I put a Reese tow ring on the back for quick hookup, assembled a box with ratchet straps, bungees, my tow strap, jumper cables, and a quart of oil in the back. Also put some cheap shift knob on and put the stock in the glove box incase I don't like it.


    That about covers today. Oh yeah also made sure my fuel light works and gave it a full load of 89 to run down and then do a filter.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2014
  2. XTorrey

    XTorrey First Fill-Up (of many)

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Grand Junction, CO
    1st gen valve covers are notorious for cracking and leaking. Might want to glance at those while you're under the hood. :)

    Sent from the wastelands of Tatooine
     
  3. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    I'll add it to the list, thanks. The only problem I haven't read a fix for yet is my rough 3rd gear. Today I noticed that when I drop under 2k rpms the shake almost tries to push it out of third gear. Every other gear is smooth so I'm guessing that's a tranny rebuild... How ever with the wide spread low gears of the X I find easy to skip 3rd unless I really need it.

    On a good note I picked up some stuff to drop my Infinite speakers in, just need a $10 for the rear. And since I already own the speakers there's no money invested there.

    Sent from mobile
     
  4. Muadeeb

    Muadeeb Bastard Admin from Hell Admin

    Messages:
    16,755
    Location:
    Dallas
    PS leak is most likely the clamp on the underside of the tank. Tightening it will help, but replacing the clamp with a normal worm gear style will be better.

    2x in checking the valve covers, they're notorious for leaking too. Passenger side is cake to pull and look at.

    When you change the tranny oil, if you do have metal chunks, SilverDude did an excellent write up on rebuilding it.

    Sent via wild ferrets on crack
     
  5. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Cool, ideally I wanna source a spare tranny and rebuild it that way I only have to swap a tranny and the X case, It should last till I need a clutch. Yeah I read over the valve cover job and will do spark plugs/clean TB/ clean MAF/ and maybe intake all in one shot there. Probably Cap/rotor/wires too. And I checked out the P/S clamp issue too thanks. My only question right now is when I do timing belt if I should replace the water hose clamps with standard clamps also or reuse stock?
     
  6. Muadeeb

    Muadeeb Bastard Admin from Hell Admin

    Messages:
    16,755
    Location:
    Dallas
    Clamps are cheap, I'd replace them.

    Sent via wild ferrets on crack
     
  7. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Sounds good I'll pencil them onto the parts list

    Sent from mobile
     
  8. XTorrey

    XTorrey First Fill-Up (of many)

    Messages:
    211
    Location:
    Grand Junction, CO
    I had some issues with bad vibration when the fluid was hot and my X was doing continuous, steeply angled mountain trail climbs. Normal road driving didn't cause the same issue, so I thought maybe it was frothing. The transmission fluid was BAD when we checked it-no metal shavings, but it was pretty gross looking so we wound up doing two drain/fills with drive time in between the first and second to make sure that the fluid was nice and clean (no flush because of the high mileage). It still vibrates a bit, but not as bad as before so I'm going to try a transmission cooler to see if it's still having some frothing from the heat, angle of climbing, and the shallow pan. The supercharger keeps my engine a little hotter, plus we live in the desert so it couldn't hurt either way. If that doesn't help, it's going to be rebuild time for her.
     
  9. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    I have a manual tranny so I don't believe there's any cooler involved (didn't look haha) but I do plan on draining/inspecting and refilling with AmsOil. The nasty vibration I'm referring to is only noticeable with your hand on the shifter knob, clutch engaged, in 3rd gear. I've ran 2nd gear high and 4th low to make sure its not speed related, only in third and the lower the rpm you can physically feel it bumping as it spins, under 1700 it almost want to push the shifter out of gear. But like I said TB is #1 priority, I just avoid 3rd for now. It still drives fine in 3rd, unless your hand is waiting for the next gear and you feel the underlaying issue.

    The other vibration I have is normally around 40 and shakes the wheel, already did the alignment and balancing right of the bat. I was referred on the ClubX FB group to do U-joints, so after the tranny oil change I will be looking into replacing all 4 U-joints and see if my driveline settles down.

    Then Valve Cover gaskets and P/S hose clamps and roll on with the rest of my complete PM bumper to bumper until I'm convinced every fluid and major issue has been resolved (this may take awhile). I think I'm gonna look into polyurethane engine/tranny mounts, the Idler arm bracket and bushings, pretty much just work her front to back until I have a restored vehicle to use and begin the offroad mods.
     
  10. Muadeeb

    Muadeeb Bastard Admin from Hell Admin

    Messages:
    16,755
    Location:
    Dallas
    If you're thinking engine mounts, get the HD ones from Rugged Rocks. And for the IAB, the one from Total Chaos looks to be the beefier option

    Sent via wild ferrets on crack
     
  11. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    10-4 thanks! I'll be doing a good bit of research on each item of my punch list as I get to it. Right now I've been reading TB procedure, tips, downloading the FSM and continuing to update my tools and parts list for that job. Might go do some small things today to the X, getting tired of reading.
     
  12. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Work Completed 3-22-14

    So working and gym all week keep me disconnected from reading like I would want but more importantly keeps the X parked for 5 days. Researching my brains out and figuring out the timing belt job has me ready to dive in as soon as the last parts arrive and I get a Saturday morning not cold and not raining (hopefully next weekend). I'm awaiting 2 orders from Courtesy, an order from Sears, and I need to pick up some RTV and hose clamps. Other than that I have the FSM, I'll be organizing the work bench tomorrow and getting all these new tools and reference materials ready. But in the meantime I need to drive and/or work on this beast (not yet)! So finally around 4PM today I started on a list of weekend projects.

    First I replaced the shift knob. I went cheap, kept a pattern on it so others in the house can figure out the ol' H. I went with red...I don't care for red BUT have decided with red as Nismo's color and the sticker package being red, I'll go ahead and use it as the accent color for the X. The shifter boot has dropped an inch but I am confident a body lift will resolve this along with shortening the height, although I still wish to attempt to locate and/or work on a short throw solution. Maybe even angle the shifter back like most trucks. (I have several ideas on these items and will pursue later)

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    I also started adding some 2nd Gen flare that was saved from Dad's 2005 X. Rubber floor mats bearing the Xterra name. I like these kind of things for several reasons. #1 The old X lives on. I put a lot of my totaled Ranger acc's on my aunts and its always cool to see it again. #2 It's an official Nissan product, and #3 It says XTERRA right on the mat! I have the rear mats but they are a bit big but I don't wanna cut them, I'm looking into how to make them fit my truck. If I can't they'll be up for sale/trade. I also need a rubber mat for the rear. Anyways driver's side:

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    Passenger:

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    They are not exact but cover very well, and you can't lose with the name.

    Some blind spot mirrors:

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    Oh yeah Friday evening I got a sweet package from MA. Had a nice T-shirt and one of these:

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    Also added this, KCCO!

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    Light stuff done, fun time. I have not been impressed with the sound quality of the stereo since I bought it. No matter how I set the equalizer. So easiest item is speakers. I have 4 6.5" Infinity's I pulled from the 98 Altima before we donated the car. I purchased these new and installed them about 5 years ago, only used 2 months before I threw the chain on that old KA (250k miles) So I dusted these off, removed 2 of them from Altima housings and dug into the doors.

    Speakers, 2 old housings, 2nd Gen rear floor mat:

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    Specs, 180W peak, 60W RMS:

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    6x9 to 6.5" adapters and Nissan to aftermarket plugs. Now I work on vehicles and do custom 12V wiring all day at work (Emergency lighting, sirens, and most importantly public safety 2 Way communications) so cutting off the factory plugs and putting spades on and wiring would have saved $30 in connectors but I was there and they had them, makes my life easier... **Note this is more important later

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    Begin drivers door removal. I LOVE this generation Nissan its identical to the 98 Altima so I was very familiar once I dug in. Similar screw locations everything. I mean heck, the X has the same door handles, locks, handle trim, headlight multiswitch, mirror controls, dimmer switch, keys, window controls, etc.

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    Now for the next pic there's a clip that goes here. For some people who have never removed them they are easy to break (also 14 years old). Now I could've done this last week but with temps in the low 30's, this old plastic is very fragile, today I was in 50's so I jumped on it. Also I read a lot of forums tell people these pins are one time use because the OP destroyed theirs pulling it out. Use the right pry tools, I have a pic later. Real cheap if your doing any interior work I'd buy some.

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    Door panel ready to go:

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    Door panel removed:

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    What the heck???

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    Looks like 1 of the previous 2 owners replaced the speakers with some Pioneers. So I immediately think I'll need a HU to clean up my audio, but I have MY Infinity's and I already ripped panel 1 down. ALSO, I took time to remove 2 speakers from the Altima adapters, only to find the exact adapters... lol oh well. Also not pictured, the Pioneers used the Nissan to aftermarket adapters I mentioned earlier. This is now relevant because I can return my adapters and get that $30 back OR install these Pioneer's in the Rent's Versa that sounds hollow as all hell.

    New/old Infinity:

    [​IMG]

    Now this is just personal preference but when I install speakers if I don't install a tweeter I unhook the factory one. This takes the stock HU treble adjustment from throwing off me setting the new speakers, and every HU I've ever bought is 4 channel. I'm sure an audio expert can correct me on my logic but I just do this. Anyways I disconnect and zip the old so it doesn't rattle around on the plastic liners

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    Some of the pry tools I own. These are all cheap at Harbor Freight. The yellow plastic ones come in a set of 6 with varying ends and my go to pry tool comes in a set of 6, 3 this length, 3 like 2 foot long with one short and one long of the 3 different heads. I use the smallest one in my main tool bag but keep all the rest in the secondary tool bag in the work truck. (None of this is important except use them for the push in clips and to work around the edges and pop the pins on the panels.)

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    I started to realize the daylight was gonna be an issue so no pictures of the passenger door. But the front was completed as planned. Now to the rear.

    Heeeeey, more Pioneers:

    [​IMG]

    Surprise! I got more 2nd Gen goodies! We tried to see if the cargo nets from the old X would work when I bough it but found there was floor hooks but nothing mid way to clip to till the ceiling. Introducing another ACC taken before the insurance company got her. The adjustable tie downs from the cargo system. These are nice and simply designed, making them easy to retrofit and look right doing it!

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    Now I could have taken my time and measured and made sure everything was symmetric because I do plan on being anal with my new truck. BUT, racing the sunlight makes it feel like work so I just mounted all 4 on the fly by eye. At this point I'd say I'm commited:

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    I guess I jumped straight to the entire driver's panel completely mounted:

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    Notice I notched the support a little and not pictured is notching the edge of the upper panel where these components meet. You'll note later the rear driver's side needs the upper panel notched more closer to the mounting pin but the other 3 turned out flush.

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    New Infinity is adapter. Also utilizes extra space to offer tweeter mounting if wanted. Why 6.5 instead of 6x9? #1 I already had 4 6.5's. #2 I have 4 6.5's because I bought 4 instead of 2 and 2 and heres why. The 6.5 is a true circle, a 6x9 is oval, sound waves are round not oval. This creates leeway for bad quality but more importantly a 6x9 won't last as long as a 6.5 in the same setup because it will fall apart due to the weird wave. ***DISCLAIMER*** This is how it was explained to me and again I'm sure a true audio guy can school me on this, but this is why I've purchased the equipment I did, truth or no truth haha.But that Infinity looks sexy either way!

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    Finished product note rear needs more trimming to sit completely flush on upper to lower panel line:

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    More Nissan factory retrofitting goodness!

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    How I'll use it most, to keep my box with straps, tow hitch, jumper cables, quart of oil, and box of bungees from sliding. We have 2 cargo nets from the old X. One original one not so I'm going to run one in each position and kind of divide my storage, keeps everything very flexible.

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  13. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Hit the photo limit!:angel: I knew I was 3 over I didn't bank on having to find all the smileys in post 1...LOL

    Next project, the fog light mod. With light fading I decided removing a cover and jumping a wire was an easy task. No pics but end result.

    [​IMG]

    You'll notice an extra connector....I managed to end up with my Right headlamp on because the red/black coming to the 8 wire connector was not pinned the same as the guide for the 2004 I read. But I metered some stuff and corrected.

    I did this mod on the Ranger and F-150 always nice to have options. Photo adds more light than there was, the wiring picture was flashed.

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    But why stop at parking lights. I want to go Lo Pro sometimes with my version of blackout lights and go fogs with no tails.

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    Just know that if you wire to run fogs battery hot there will be no chime and you risk a dead battery but this is an old risk to me that I don't worry about. By the 3rd vehicle you have habits right?

    Now it's worth noting after my fog light mod I did my audio levels and it does sound much cleaner but leaves room to be desired especially on the FM Rx side so a HU will in order at some point. I did set the equalizer with MP3's on a tape adapter for a cleaner signal and got it happy just not great. I also realized after all this i had no gauge backlights, or radio buttons, or HVAC with the headlights. The X knew I was turning the headlamps on, the odometer and radio display changed with the switch, just no lights. So I checked all relevant fuses and as it became dark I became frustrated and jumped on the forums. After some searching around I saw a post point someone to at least check the dimmer.....so I ran outside fired it up and son of a... I rolled the dimmer off working on the column. So things to check, now you know.

    On the list for tomorrow:
    Drop the skid plate, 2 reasons, PB blast the crank bolt as step 1 of timing belt prep. This will happen a lot this week. #2 start tracking the oil leak on the driveway when parked facing downhill but not uphill. Remove the mud flaps. Remove the rear sway bar. I won't remove the steps until A they bend on a trail or B I get rock sliders. I have some cheap black aluminum pedals to install just because I'm bored. I'm also going to scope the P/S clamps. I need to write down the size I need and figure out what size clamps for the water hoses also. I'm probably going to test my harbor freight timing light and see if it was worth $20. If its not at 10* the lights junk, the 110,000 mile 14 year old belt is ready, or the distributor is off. I'll bank on the light being junk first haha, but if its spot on it'll be good to check with post TB. I also hooked up the code reader today, no codes so that can be crossed off the list. I also wanna figure out where to mount my CB radio in prep for April Fools (fingers crossed on TB job). I said whats the cheapest way to get a CB, oh yeah I had a crappy $20 cobra in the F150 I never used. Took it up the shop Friday, did almost 5W out, mic audio a little quiet but thats ok. Already owned is already owned right? Also check the Sirius out of the F-150.

    So timing belt is still heavy on my mind. I'm waiting on the 1/2" torque wrench that Sears couldn't located today (how are you missing $300 in inventory??), 2 orders from Courtesy are timing belt kit with an extra cam shaft seal. Order #2 is bypass hose, slinger, and new water pump studs. I picked up the last of any other tools including the bolts for the puller. I'm most nervouse on doing the 3 seals and seating the WP. Confused because if the kit comes with a gasket for the pump its RTV on the pump, then gasket, then block? I know just RTV on the therm.

    Can't wait till this is done so I can enjoy my X without the time bomb feeling.

    Long post, questions, comments, what ever, let me know X Nation!
     
  14. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Sunday Update 3/23/14

    Sunday funday update. It was much colder today and cloudy... But I started out removing mudflaps, looks good:

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    Next I eyeballed the quarter sized spot on the driveway I notice whenever face it downhill overnight.

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    So I crawled under the truck best I could. (I've lost 70Lbs since Nov and can even fit into my new NEXTerra shirt that I ordered as an XL, but damn this truck needs some lift) And from what I can determine without putting it up in the air is that its coming from between the bellhousing and block. This about bummed me out. I went topside and although I need valve cover gaskets there's no leaks running anywhere I can see around the top half of the bellhousing on either side. Idk if it was the weather or this possible discovery but it took the wind out of my sails. Rear main seal? Idk. It needs on a lift. :crushed: Heres a shot best I could with my phone 1 from drivers, one from passenger. Any input appreciated. If I'm really lucky maybe tranny or slave cylinder related because I'm planning on a rebuild sooner than later anyways.

    [​IMG]

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    Dejected I moved onto my cheapo pedal covers. Removed the rubber cover off el clutch and realized not near the space the pedal wants to be permanently mounted. On top of this the mounting bolts fall through the decretive/"grip" holes. This is where "custom" comes into using cheap un-needed components haha! Enter my impact and 5/16 self tappers off the work truck.

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    Countersunk, no, mounted solid, yes.

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    Repeated process on brake and swapped clutch screws to pan head philips instead of 5/16" hex to compare

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    I decided I liked the hex better, the screws are also 1/4" longer and get 2 threads through the back of the pedal. Now the skinny pedal. Well I ran into a problem. The gas pedal doesn't have a rubber cover, it's more a hard plastic fit onto the metal rod. Well I can't run self tappers into the plastic because they will eventually pull out. (Self tappers only mount well into solid metal, any kind of plastic, rubber, wood, fiberglass and you can pull them quite easily) Well I didn't have any real good looking coarse thread screws, and I've never had my 5/16 in coarse thread except spare out of one radio mounting kit and I had none on hand. So I bit the bullet and ran black philips pan head coarse threads into the gas pedal.

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    Silver silver black (duck duck goose, you run on goose and its the gas pedal....i thought it was funny.) Anyways, so I changed the other 2 to black screws also. Also very close on clearance but I can get a finger around it with it on the stop.

    [​IMG]

    Finished:

    [​IMG]

    So I went to test my harbor freight timing light and no dice. It tries to light but only enough for you to see if your looking towards the bulb. Might've been a bad connection my battery terminals were dirty. This is what $20 tools do, waste time and $20. I'm gonna take it to work and see if we can get it working on the bench, if not I'll return it. But while messing with it I idled my truck about 5 minutes and the X just pees itself. Facing downhill its just almost running water out of the front bottom weld of the muffler. Just an old system? Engine problem with vapor? Anyone?

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    The next section I went ahead and set the sway bar for off-road. Done.

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    I also aired the tires up from 33 to 48 (50 max cold) while I was infront of the garage. Just to document current tires are 31x10.5x15 UniRoyal Laredos Cross Country. If I air them down I might get some traction on the green trails! lol It ashame I really want at least A/T's before trying my first wheeling runs but hey if you run it stock you can appreciate the performance more later right?

    [​IMG]

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    That wraps today. I have noticed before that sometimes I have to really press the clutch hard to open the starter circuit and after the pedal covers all 3 times I've started it I really really gotta convince it I have the clutch in. Bad clutch switch? Thanks in advance for any input for any of the 3 previous post!
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014
  15. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

    Messages:
    37,775
    Location:
    Denver-ish
    The water is just exhaust condensation. Mine does it too. Any hole in the car back (of which there are many) leaks water on to the ground.
     
  16. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    I figured, it just seems so excessive. It just wants a new exhaust haha. But yeah to idle for under 5 minutes ran a stream all the way to my car...wierd.

    Sent from mobile
     
  17. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    After a little searching rear main seals (more like spending 30 seconds before bed) I chanced upon this:



    So I'm gonna keep that positive attitude, complete the planned TB job, valve covers and tune up (I'm gonna add a compression check when I do the covers and plugs and associated ignition electrical), all 4 U-joints, change all 4 drive line fluids, and further inspect the oil and drop the pan at that point and see if cleans up. Assuming I don't find any other major obstacles between now and then. Also decided I will drop the steps the same day I drop the spare tire for wheeling prep.
     
  18. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Saturday update:

    Well it's raining and it's supposed to rain tomorrow. Today was the original day I had penciled to start my timing belt but the kit isn't here yet, it did ship a couple days ago. Also waiting on the correct slinger to ship so I've decided to try again the weekend after the April Fools Run (4/12). But the weather has curbed Rausch Creek prep. So one day this week I'll have to skip the gym and drop my spare tire and strap it and remove my step bars. Also wanna pack my work tools, the GMRS/FRS portables I picked up, go over and repack the first aid kit, and run my Cobra mag mount antenna (temporary, expect a permanent install before ECXC).

    With the rain I didn't snap a lot of pics (more like 1 haha), but here's what all I did. Tested the 98 Altima headunit which I remembered to be better sounding than the Xterra. It worked and sounded good but was only a marginal gain. I don't have or wanted to go buy parts to install my Pioneer single DIN radio but maybe in the future. I'm sure I will at some point, it use to overheat and shutdown in the Camry but I think theres more room in the X dash, but the built in Sirius is nice, hard to operate without number keys though. So anyways I reinstalled the Xterra headunit and it seemed more clear on FM Rx so maybe the antenna was previously loose, no idea but she'll work until further notice.

    I installed my CB as previously seen on the forums (i forget where I just remember reading it haha). I just need my mag mount setup, thinking right behind the roof basket, might not be the best for reflective but @ 4.4 Watts for a 1 day offroad trip I think it will suffice.

    Also installed the Sirius I had previously used in my Ranger with the direct FM kit, leaves the tape deck adapter open for MP3's without needing to unplug it. Did A temporary Sirius antenna install on the dash (unpictured). It's quick and on the 30 minute test drive had 100% reception so it's working just as good as my sirius antenna on the dash of the work truck. I will put it on the roof at some point, too wet today to be running antennas all over Nissan's creation.

    Finished product:

    [​IMG]

    Is it Rausch Creek day yet?

    EDIT:

    I guess I should add both radios are tapped into the radio Cig Lighter so that they function with Ignition sense. I did this behind dash which leaves the plug open for use. The sirius pedestal is mounted using a swivel ball screwed into the top side of the cubby hole down there. The CB is friction mounted per that thread. The 3 wires for the Sirius are ran through the backside of that cubby hole, I drilled a 3/4" hole and put in a 3/4" plastic grommet in as I would on any professional install. I wouldn't expect any of these wires to be damaged by the plastic edge but hey, when you have the supplies on hand it's nice to look at it and say well it can't be done better.
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2014
  19. drbandkgb

    drbandkgb Titan Swapped / SAS'd Founding Member

    Messages:
    10,856
    I did a write up on Cx and XN about the cb install.. Looks great man...

    Lots of good info in your build
     
  20. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    I was drawing a complete blank on evertyhing about the CB except pics in my head and shave it slowly till its a force job haha. But thanks! :cool:

    With our surprise snow Sunday I was able to get out and use the 4WD, learned some things about the late 80's system. #1 at a stop light dont somehow but the XCase back to 2H without realizing it and expect to pull out quickly. I think I finally walked across the intersection in 3rd and when everyone else turned behind me, stopped and pulled it back into 4H. #2 If you take it out of 4WD and unlock the hubs because the state road is all clean, make damn sure when you put it back into 4wd in the borough because its a mess at a stop light, that its all the way in not just enough to get the light. And then grind it a hair to find out no shift on the fly and pull into the firehouse just to find out that it was only another half inch down... Learning curve, but done. :black_eyed:

    On a good note my CB antenna showed up today but on the advice of the CB/HAM guy at work (who is also selling me a SWR meter for $10) I didnt install the antenna. Instead I pulled the radio and were gonna set it up and tune it on the bench then I'll install everything and double check the ratios with the antenna between the tire and the roof rack. Not my exact logic but I'm gonna do it just because he thinks its a good idea, cant hurt. It was sunny and low 60's today and rain all week long so I better catch a small dry spell or he will hear about it haha!

    Speaking of good weather today I skipped the gym......BUT to complete some RC prep. After pulling the CB right quick I relocated my spare to the roof rack after debating how much of the cargo area it would take up. I strapped it down with 2 ratchet straps, so we will see how good that works come Saturday...

    I also removed the side steps and no sooner got one loose and realized why it was noted as a requirement! I think you can pickup both with 1 hand.... I thought it was gonna be more of a fight but a 3/8 removed them nice and easy. So pics:

    New look both sides:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And both side steps:

    [​IMG]

    April Fools! Well I guess they are in the picture... I was layin on the creeper, wrenchin, looking at the car, thinking, I haven't even cranked my good car since like a week before buying my X. It's been all Xterra, all the time. Then passed on starting it again because I was done so soon with the step removal which went so fast. 4 days till the X sees a little dirt.
     
  21. Yellow07s

    Yellow07s Test Drive Founding Member

    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    Dillsburg PA
    Nice start you have there! We will make sure you have some fun on the trails this weekend! Look forward to meeting you! Dave
     
  22. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    It's only a good start if I can pull off the TB job after RC, fingers crossed for the highway RPMs.

    UPDATE:

    So I flush mounted that CB and it looks good but what good is it without an antenna? Well my Cobra HG A1500 mag mount that showed up the other day got installed today. Believe it or not I have 10 pictures dedicated to the install and tuning of the antenna, I work on 2-way by trade... :bmmd: But not on CBs so it might get a little more tuning yet, just not in the rain.

    **I noted on my last post the right side of the pics were hazy and I cleaned the lense on my cell camera but i doesn't look much clearer in some of these. Workng on it...**

    Anyways mag mount installed:

    [​IMG]

    Not the best picture I was holding the camera above the roof line as I hadn't pulled my step stool out yet. Next I pulled everything I wanted moved in the interior to run this line. That would be both passenger sill plates, the weather stripping out of the rear of the B pillar, the plastic at the front of the passengers sill and pulled back the carpet in the front passenger floor board. All I can say is thank you to Nissan, this vehicle is easy to work on! The next picture I ran the antenna line into the vehicle over the weatherstripping then came to the top of the B pillar where it meets the headliner and tucked it in behind the plastic all the way in so the weatherstripping sits back in flush not ontop the coax.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Upfront here is where Nissan's engineers became my new best friends. Plenty of space and an easy access wiring trough make for an easy run. I was extra careful as I'm used to using a fish and just running coax but with a premade connector already installed I didn't want to have to do pictures on installing a new connector. **I can if someone needs to see it! Let me know!***

    [​IMG]

    Out the front:

    [​IMG]

    Around the bottom edge of the firewall padding all under carpet. And finally pops out the dash. Unseen from passengers door weatherstripping, only a radio head, I like it.

    [​IMG]

    Now things get interesting.I'm very familiar with VHF,UHF, 800 and tuning whips based on forward and reflective watts. The same principle applies here except by using SWR, which I can mathematically calculate, or can do solely based on the watts. However my watt meter only reads on the 100W scale, dealing down in the sub 5's is well, not the most accurate way. If I had my managers meter I can drop her down to the 5W scale and read it dead nuts on. So based on our CB and resident HAM's advice I purchased one of his SWR meters for $10, only for him to realize it was for VHF/UHF (if your not into radios think 150 MHz/450MHz, FM radio is 90 MHz, and CB is 27 MHz in AM)...Well he had another one he was willing to let go but being 3 meters in 1 and the fact he was selling it for a friends widow he needed $30. Seeing as they were on ebay at $60 I followed through. So now I got a fancy dancy SWR/watt/modulation meter to play with, along with my work watt meter.

    Moving along, to tune on a meter you need a male to male jumper which I can make from scratch but I have this nice shiny one that was factory built and on a repeater that was being tossed, needless to say I saved this cable since a crimp on connector/RG-58 cable wont be this nice. ***Again if pictures are requested I can make one but if you don't have antenna crimpers I can't really help more than supply the pictures. You can go solder on (and some would prefer) but when crimping I can't really recommend not doing it with the right tool.***

    [​IMG]

    My PDC600 3 way meter:

    [​IMG]

    And the most important tool I carry on my truck to keep food on the table, my trusty watt meter. (Some old heads might call this a Bird Meter)

    [​IMG]

    So to start off I wanted to test my recycled jumper and also see what my optimal readings out of my Cobra might be. So I put a dummy load on the watt meter. This gives the radio and the meter what they perceive as a perfect 50 Ohm load/antenna. Thus resulting with a maximum watt reading with zero reflective if all the connectors and equipment are good. In the field I would screw this onto the antenna mount on the exterior of the vehicle to check the coax to that point or in a building in the same manner. From here out W refers to watts, F to forward power, R to reflective power (watts coming back from the antenna into the radio aka Bad), and SWR is SWR

    [​IMG]

    That was the final pic BTW, i was "busy" the rest of the way lol. Also note at this point in time I started the vehicle so the radio receives an optimal voltage!! Especially once you start drawing with transmit. Probably not critical on the CB level with a 2A fuse but hey it's best to just do it.

    Reading on channel 1 with a DL through my meter with a 25MHz to 60MHz slug was 7.5WF and 0WR. Meter looks a little high as this should be about 5W but again I bought an SWR meter knowing that I just dont trust reading this low on a 100W scale. But the zero is right on so I moved forward and put the antenna line in place of the dummy load.

    Watt Meter Results:
    Channel 1 - 6F/1R
    channel 20 - 7F/maybe .25R (wishing i had that nicer meter I spoke of...)
    channel 40 - 7.5F/.5R

    Never used an SWR meter but demo'd this in the shop on this radio and antenna when I purchased it. So following my co-workers instructions he showed me on the bench came up with:

    SWR Meter Results:
    channel 1 - 1.09 (built in watt meter 3W)
    channel 20 - 1.15 (4W)
    channel 40 - 1.29 (4.75W)

    So the higher the frequency the happier the radio (high frequency is shorter wave length) so I need to shorten the antenna. Ideally I want 1 and 40 close with 20 tuned in about midway. For ****s and giggles I choked the antenna up in the mount to make it longer and it ran channel 1's SWR to 1.39 (2W) which makes sense. So I trimmed an 1/8" off the whip and reseated and retested. This time SWR 1st because it was already hooked up.

    SWR Meter Results 1/8" trim:
    channel 1 - 1.15 (2.55W)
    channel 20 - 1.2 (3.5W)
    channel 40 - 1.35 (4.9W)

    Watt Meter Results 1/8" trim:
    Channel 1 - 5.5F/.25R
    channel 20 - 6F/.25R
    channel 40 - 6F/.25R

    Very very confused. I went about as small an adjustment as I can make with my hand sized bolt cutters and everything went opposite.... Frustrated I choked the antenna up in the mount about as much as I had removed and got the following results.

    Watt Meter Results trimmed and raised:
    Channel 1 - 6F/.25R
    channel 20 - 6F/0R
    channel 40 - 6.5F/0R

    SWR Meter Results trimmed and raised:
    channel 1 - 1.05 (2.5W)
    channel 20 - 1.10 (3.5W)
    channel 40 - 1.20 (4.4W)

    As it started to drizzle again I looked at my hand written tables and tightened down the whip, removed my equipment, and installed the radio into the dash. According to the meters I can most definitely use this setup, antenna is kinda close to the spare tire currently mounted top side for RC. But I'm gonna run my results by my buddy at work and probably my boss and see what they think. Probably never saw anyone be this anal over a CB mag mount but I like to take pride in my work, especially when it's what I'm supposed to be good at right? :rollseyes:

    2 days till RC...
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2014
  23. Muadeeb

    Muadeeb Bastard Admin from Hell Admin

    Messages:
    16,755
    Location:
    Dallas
    Mmmmmm.... Bird watt meters.... Being a Broadcast Engineer, I totally get that. And the desire to min/max your own personal setups. With an SWR of 1.05-1.2, you're totally fine and I'd probably stop fussing with it. You're probably getting some reflection from the wheel being so close to it, but, again, I wouldn't worry about it.
     
  24. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Yeah a little off the tire, a hair off the rack, most all readings on the Bird are under 10% refelective, and with all being under 1.5 SWR I took the rain as a sign to stop! That and ideally I will permanently mount something so a tree cant knock it off, this is all for a temporary setup reading great out of the box. It's more a mental puzzle to stay sharp for work right? haha
     
  25. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Somewhat of a mid week update. I mean't to post this on Sunday but have been rather busy.

    Saturday was NEXTerra April Fools Run 2014 for anyone who didn't know. I had a total blast, once I got as used to rocks banging into steel as you can on your first time out. So before July 16 I need some skids, and preferably a PML, BL, and some MT's, maybe AT's as my street tires did ok i suppose. Funny how these items jump to the top of the list haha. I was very disappointed that after tuning my antenna not a soul could understand the cheap mic on my cheap CB, so that gives me something easy to tinker with. Also found a 25MHz-60MHz 5W scale slug for my watt meter, so I will be putting the radio back on both meters now that the tire is down. Probably install an NMO antenna on a fender mount anyways. So after a great day learning the basics of the trails on the advice of our group leader Dave (thanks again) I was able to confirm no damage at 9:30 that night in a parking lot when I double checked my tire pressures. All tires were holding pressure, since the under carraige finally dried, and since it was dark, I was able to carefully inspect with an LED flashlight, no damage. ***An added bonus of the RC mud, it dried over anywhere I thought I was leaking previously. Sunday this made looking at my oil leak easy.***

    From the rear:

    [​IMG]

    Dead underneath (added benefit of no step rails!):

    [​IMG]

    If anyone has any added thoughts with the clearer pictures let me know. I'm just assuming still oil pan or rear main, neither is simple unless I'm going with a new clutch, or locking the front diff....

    Wierd issue maybe, while doing a post RC check/shakedown I went to check my oil knowing I have a slight drip and after sitting for about 10 minutes in a parking lot eating on the way home. I did this mostly because my driveway aint level, anyways 2 sides of the dip stick read full and 2 sides read 5/8-3/4. Each of the levels cover 1 side with the H-L and 1 blank side. I did this several times and don't know what to make of it. I don't wanna blindly dump oil into a motor that barely holds much to begin with as I don't want further seal or leak problems. Anybody?

    Another bonus of RC, the beating and banging and grabbing gears in 4 LO may have re-aligned 3rd. At first I noticed sunday that it only shook under throttle no longer coasting, and a little later appears to be gone as long as you don't bump the shifter around once its in gear. Good deal, be interested to see how long that last.

    Other than that it's back to TB prep. Everything is here minus some RTV sealant I need and new hose clamps for the water hoses. Only hesitant about replacing the cam and crank seals and seating the water pump. Timing itself seems straight forward as long as you take your time and don't do anything stupid. After thoroughly being impressed by and enjoying the X offroad, praying everything goes smooth here. Oh yeah, it goes Water Pump, RTV, gasket, block correct? The FSM doesn't mention a gasket.

    As far as Rausch Creek Pics and videos, I'm working on sorting pics and vids for the members of my group. Then a picture dump on the NEXTerra AFR thread and probably picture dump in this thread. Followed by organizing/splicing/remastering the videos so there's not 30 short clips and post them up.
     
  26. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Double post! Copied and pasted from NEXTerra:

    I was in Dave's green group, these are somewhat in order. Working on video clips from 3 sources plus about 23 GoPro videos off the windshield to clip together. If your X is in them I'm working on getting you unedited film if I haven't already!


    Lined up not quite sure what to be ready for:


    [​IMG]


    Follow the leader (being new it's fun following a modified truck saying if it flexes and moves like that wth am I supposed to do??)


    [​IMG]


    The strap isn't for me we just left her hooked up...just in case. I attempted to back back through the mud and recover from the front but street tire fail:


    [​IMG]


    Dave had to winch him, disappointed we didn't get film or pics:


    [​IMG]


    Rider 2 filming backwards to Ben:


    [​IMG]


    Tony 3 wheeling:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Ben chillin:


    [​IMG]


    Nick 3 wheeling:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Idk:


    [​IMG]


    Lunch, the only picture I took all day:


    [​IMG]


    Post lunch:


    [​IMG]


    Off camber:


    [​IMG]


    Possibly 14:


    [​IMG]


    Ben makin moves:


    [​IMG]


    14 courtesy Dave:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    All done:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  27. DC xterra

    DC xterra Wheeling

    Messages:
    461
    Location:
    CT
    hey i saw you at raush this past weekend!
     
  28. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    I saw several X's I thought looked familiar and until I saw after pictures with SN's and then start connecting dots haha! I'm too new to really know anyone except the 4 trucks I spent the day with, but it's a start!
     
  29. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Started timing belt tonight. See THIS thread for helping me where I am currently stuck....

    Progress for tonight. Engine is stripped to timing covers and crank pulley. Jumping on it in the morning. Pretty good for under 3 hours of labor only using hand tools and taking it very slow as I know my way around the motor but never dove in this deep.

    Starting out. This motor bay was reconditioned clean before RC haha, also the hazing on the camera is getting worse I know.

    [​IMG]

    Draining coolant:

    [​IMG]

    Radiator out, most of this crap was on there before RC:

    [​IMG]

    Cooling system removed, belts:

    [​IMG]

    TDC:

    [​IMG]

    Since Im ahead of schedule I stopped for the night and started a in need of assistance thread. More progress tomorrow I'm sure.
     
  30. DC xterra

    DC xterra Wheeling

    Messages:
    461
    Location:
    CT
    cool man keep it up, u got questions ask away
     
  31. 2011XTERROR

    2011XTERROR Wheeling

    Messages:
    463
    Location:
    Texas
    just fyi, I have a second gen, but my exhaust leaks water a lot too. so, if I were you, I wouldn't worry too much. also, I like you XTERRA decal!
     
  32. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Will do, I did in the thread I linked in my previous post, but I'm fairly sure there is no real issue there. Impact will tell tomorrow.


    Yeah I just though the amount was excessive, but it is like 14 years old right haha. And I'm assuming the door panel striping kit ones? I'm trying to not destroy those via power washer. They didn't like when I took the RC mud off...



    On another TB/WP job related item. As I was removing components I noticed the water pump studs looked new and were only hand tight, I could remove them from the pump by hand, with no thread lock. I then also noticed a new hose clamp on the upper side of the bypass tube....somebody has been here. I'm diving in regardless as I have no documentation on any TB/WP service and a garage full of new parts and expensive tools just for this and future jobs. Radiator is out, im not stopping now!
     
  33. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Timing Belt Update:

    Started off firing up the air compressor and trying to break the crank bolt free. Cheap 260 ft/lbs Husky gun won't do it. Ended up laying the breaker bar on the frame and tapping the starter twice (once didn't do it). Once free pulled the top cover and double and triple checked my timing marks and TDC.

    [​IMG]

    Right cam aligned and marked (along with old, now spare belt). This cam was dead on.

    [​IMG]

    Left cam. This guy was off about 1/4 to 1/2 tooth, but no more than dead inbetween a single tooth.

    [​IMG]

    So I mentioned that I thought the WP studs looked new, not even hand tight, no lock tight. And a new clamp on the upper half of the bypass. Here are the studs:

    [​IMG]

    Clamp in question:

    [​IMG]

    Balancer removed:

    [​IMG]

    Not sure why this pic is here....Rausch Creek mud? Puttin it up anyway:

    [​IMG]

    Lower cover removed:

    [​IMG]

    Couldn't crack the cam bolts with out spinning them even with the belt on and a pry bar in the gear. Ended up just tapping them with the impact just enough to crack them. Not 100% on if that's a bad idea. I thought of it so probably.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now at this point I looked at the cam seals. And decided my luck they will leak when done. But I have the new ones and tearing down this far isn't the end of the world especially since I've done it once now. Cleaned the dirt off with WD-40 on a towel after the pics.

    [​IMG]

    Left seal:

    [​IMG]

    So made it to the bypass hose that may or may not be new:

    [​IMG]

    Once removed the hose looked fairly new, deffinately not old like the other radiator hoses, But no Nissan part numbers so on goes my known new part and clamps. Old goes into box as spare. Note even with the cover removed, PITA!! Idk how people manage this with the cover on. Then again IDK how people manage to do crazy **** all the time.

    [​IMG]

    About this time (around 12) the GF calls and is finally ready to be picked up...Breaktime. I tell you its hard to get used to a tight cable clutch and tight shifter than the X's hydraulic and long and sloppy trans.... ;) Just a month ago this statement was the other way around.

    [​IMG]

    After lunch, removed T-Stat. Something is up the gasket is around the outter edges around the bolts not where Nissan specifies. Removed water pump:

    [​IMG]

    I've never pulled a water pump, but this looks new to me. Also only a paper gasket installed dry, no sealant. Made for easy scraping. This will also go into the box as a spare. I've now come to the conclusion someone replaced bypass, T-Stat, and Water pump. And either didn't do the timing belt, or their new one was loose, because the deflection was very loose when I looked at it. Old pump:

    [​IMG]

    New pump and studs threaded with threadlock.

    [​IMG]

    Cleaned T-Stat housing, gently used t-stat, and new t-stat.

    [​IMG]

    Side by side, I believe its fairly new. I'm gonna have lots of spare parts after this job...

    [​IMG]

    Tried to clean up the antifreeze mess, gasket scraping mess, and eye ball the crank seal.

    [​IMG]

    Bit the bullet and went for it. Nervous because I do not wanna tear down again for water leaks... I installed paper and RTV red around block side of gasket. Hand tightened immediately. Waited 1 hour then torqued per RTV instructions. Will take 24 hours to fully set so around 4PM sunday I plan to be filling the radiator and begin bleeding. Also new tensioner installed in this pic. Stud looked good, will see how it goes along with the 3 seals.

    [​IMG]

    New TB on, tension set. I have roughly 1/2" deflection at right around 22 Lbs of force. Seems much better than old TB. Also tried to line the left cam up closer to the dot but after torquing the bolts (installed with oil per FSM) and tightening the belt it ended up in the same spot 1/2 tooth to the right. Tooth counts 40 and 43 look solid.

    [​IMG]

    So I've read a lot doing my research ahead of the job on people over tightening the TB and it whining when done. To alleviate this problem I recommend testing your TB tension like a man:

    [video=youtube_share;61XDGblP9nA]http://youtu.be/61XDGblP9nA[/video]

    I didn't grenade my motor! Awesome! Praying for no leaky seals or gaskets because the timing woks, no whine, and that motor sounds strong now. Upper cover reinstalled. GF disappeared so back to the blurry phone.

    [​IMG]


    Being on the downhill of the job I went ahead and replaced all 4 power steering clamps. Went ahead installed the alternator belt, put some tension on it. Rear it good with my new krikit gauge. Then rewatched the youtube video and realized I was reading the wrong side of the stick. But decided I'm not pressing on into the night since I have until 4 tomorrow to be ready for coolant.
     
  34. drbandkgb

    drbandkgb Titan Swapped / SAS'd Founding Member

    Messages:
    10,856
    Lots of hard work there man
     
  35. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    End of weekend update:

    So I woke up and determined to not have to go buy a strap wrench to tighten to torque this crank bolt threw it back into 5th gear and set my expensive craftsman torque wrench (bought it specifically for this bolt once I realized the 3/8 drive I purchased for the whole job was too small) to 100 ft/lbs. The crank moved about 1/4 to half inch but then slowed and the wrench clicked. Went ahead and bumped it up to 115, same results. 130, 140, and finally 150. So as far as I can tell she torqued.

    Sweet so I added more tension to the alternator belt until I got about 140 on the Krikit gauge. A little low yeah but the it seemed more than taught already. And turned to my next little project. I went ahead and got new bearings for the 2 idler pulleys thinking this should be easy as they're off the vehicle. Found out the perfect socket size to push them in/out was the 27mm impact socket. Bad news is the kit i got from harbor freight for this job for the 27 is all deep well. Don't fit in my tiny bench vise, and my vise doesn't give enough depth from the jaws to the screw for me to center everything... Oh well I have the bearings and they're fairly easy to remove if needed in the future, put the new bearings in the Xterra parts box. Shiny:

    [​IMG]

    Reinstalled PS/WP idler and belt. Water pipe and pipe to T-Stat hose and clamps:

    [​IMG]

    A/C belt installed, and fan. Also put blue thread lock on the fan nuts on the WP pulley. Never separated fan from clutch unit.

    [​IMG]

    Fan shroud, overflow tank, and stupid intake resonator. I should have just capped it off while out, but in wanting everything to be happy until I shake it down, reinstalled it. Although having the battery unhooked for 48 hours should reset the ECU... Awaiting radiator:

    [​IMG]

    CLEAN:

    [​IMG]

    And installed:

    [​IMG]

    Minus coolant she's done:

    [​IMG]

    Installed this key sticker that I never found hence I dove in only to find new lookin parts. But now its documented:

    [​IMG]

    Old antifreeze. Really dirty/black. But can't detect any oil at the surface, just green with lots black. I say this because it gets maybe interesting here shortly. This all being said I've never serviced a cooling system so maybe this is normal.

    [​IMG]

    End of pictures, 3 hours to kill till I have 24 hours on the RTV. Cleaned my battery post, garage, put tools away. Finally the time arrives. Only got under 2 gallons in before overflow from the bleed screw on the manifold. Topped off the overflow to max and fired up the truck. Sounds just good with all the accessories on it again. Got about 3 minutes of idle in and bleeding air bubbles before it overflowed the cap. as it continued to wait for full operating temp it started to push bubble out the bleed screw on manifold so I waited till it was more antifreeze then bubbles and then tightened it more until it stopped. Ran through Nissans procedure of revving then killed it for a cool down. No leaks so far! So I checked the oil level, buckle your seat belts.

    I thought it looked green on my blue shop towel. I about ****. Checked it again. Realized maybe yellowish oil + blue = green even though I've never seen that but usually the oil is black by the time I change it. Sears just put this in 3-400 miles ago. Didn't mention any color issues. The dealer changed the oil wiping any record of previous oil condition although when I asked Scott he had said it was fine (im sure). So it's been changed twice in the 500 miles I've owned the X and I've ever personally laid eyes on it. I checked it on a white paper towel and it was more yellow but still kinda green to me. Paranoid I knew I had 5 quarts of oil there so ran out and bought a filter with the work truck and changed the oil right quick.

    At minimum I got to install my new magnetic oil plug with new washer and torque it with my fancy new wrench I've been enjoying on reassembly. New filter, filled it again. Now the old oil looked good coming out but in the pan looked greenish if it sloshed it up on the sides. Dipstick came out same colors. A screwdriver in the oil bottle came out clear on both towels. So at this point I have no idea if I'm crazy paranoid or what. I did realize later I was using that pan for antifreeze so maybe green on the sides. But no oil at surface of old antifreeze sitting in bucket or oily sheen look. I think I'm just crazy, but my oil's changed. My only thoughts were antifreeze leaked into crank seal when I pulled the water pump, or maybe somehow a 15 second run with no coolant damaged a head gasket but I believe this to be highly unlikely. 15 seconds, is well, 15 seconds come on.

    Checked coolant level, perfect at bottom of cap. Refired up and cranked heat, didn't hear any noises that would hint to bleed more, so I went for a test run. Its noted that if your timing is off a tooth it might run fine but die at highway speed. Up until now I've avoided going over 3K RPMs just because unsure on the TB condition. Well I cracked 5.5K RPMs 3x in a row to hit 70 in 3rd, not too shabby! 4th didn't have much pickup and 5th I wasn't expecting any. But then again it is just a 100something horse 3.3, not dad's old 260hp 4.0L that was fuuuuuuuuuuun (picked off 105 once in that X). SO as far as I can tell she's running good.

    Returned home after getting milkshakes at the drive in. No drips after running her hard. Code reader shows No Codes. and finally dark enough to see my cheap harbor freight timing light (see not very bright) with the sun behind the trees to see notches. Last time I tested this I thought it wasn't working at all. Per Nissan's procedure I'm readin about 12* I believe. Past the 10* notch but not halfway which falls under 10* +-2*. Never did it before and crappy tool, but I believe that wraps up the weekend. Any concerns about oil and antifreeze can only be answered by time. Watch coolant level, oil condition, and watch the temp gauge. Other than that wait 3000 miles. In the meantime I'm gonna watch for leaks for and give it a little then put the radiator rubber cover on the bottom and front skid.
     
  36. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    Yeah it is. I stretched it out over a whole weekend. Now that I've done it once could probably knock it in 1 day. I'm really comfortable with components in a car just never touched cooling or timing. So set out, bought a bunch of special tools and went to it. I feel a clutch or oil pan job wouldn't be so bad now! Thanks to anyone who has ever posted how tos or pictures, greatest way to finally go for it. Now for that mess of antifreeze and oil in the driveway...haha!
     
  37. bigjim247365

    bigjim247365 Anime boobs & male genitals? Sign me up! Supporting Member

    Messages:
    31,370
    Location:
    Hainesville IL
    nice work!
     
  38. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    I believe this is finally done. 19 minutes, mobiles not recommended. Watch it before the copyright fools take it down!

    [video=youtube_share;Yhyw-eLmduk]http://youtu.be/Yhyw-eLmduk[/video]

    We cut this down from 53 minutes. First time editing, comments welcome. ENJOY!
     
  39. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

    Messages:
    37,775
    Location:
    Denver-ish
    Too late
     
  40. XterraGT

    XterraGT Bought an X

    Messages:
    67
    Location:
    Red Lion, PA
    No its up. Only blocked on mobiles. By not recommend I mean don't bother, watch it on a bigger screen! :D

    Sent from mobile
     

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