Xterra intermittent start problem.

ARCTICboy

Test Drive
Hello....

Just wondering if anyone can help me out. I have a intermittent starting problem on my 2002 Xterra SC.

- Starter has been replaced 5 months ago
- Plugs, plug wire, cap and rotor replace 8 months ago
- Fuel pump and fuel filter replaced 1 year ago
- Battery replaced 1year ago
- MAF replaced 5 years ago and is clean.

No check engine light and only code was a Knock sensor code.

It doesn't seem to be a heat or cold issue, has started in -30 and +5 so far this winter.

When it does refuse to start it turns over fine but never seems to catch, almost like a fuel starvation issue. It has only once died on my while driving, no jerking or any preliminary signs just total shut off from the motor. 20 minutes later it restarted and was fine.

Could it be a sensor or possibly the Distributor?

Thank you for reading this
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Marcus
 

harryron

The Grumpiest of Mid-Westerners
Location
ohio
The first place I would start is checking to see of the battle terminal are tight.
 

Gravity

Test Drive
Location
Desert
I just had an issue with the distributor. You can read my thread in the same topic. I was getting a start, but then die like a fuel cut issue. The distributors on these trucks seem to be pretty finicky. I could definitely see it being a cam sensor or ignition coil issue, which requires that the distributor itself be replaced. Just given all of the other parts you've replaced, that's the one real suspect.

You could try spraying starting fluid into the intake while it turns over. If it starts when you do that it might be worth looking into the fuel system more. Did you check the sender unit that provides power for the fuel pump? They're known to corrode at the 90 degree connector on top of the fuel tank.

I'd also check and clean your engine and battery grounds, since that's pretty easy and should be done anyway.
 
Ugh ! I feel your pain !! I've been chasing a similar problem around on my 2000 for a few months ! I would drive around at full temp, pull in somewhere, shut down and come back out 20 mins later only to have it refuse to start. It would crank over fine, would almost catch and sorta wheeze and I would get a sort of misfire and it would belch a could of smoke out of the air cleaner box that made me think it was crankcase crud ! Scanned it for coeds and checked live data with a scan tool and it revealed nothing was wrong ! Thinking it was very similar to having a flooded carburetor, it would sometimes fire up again if I held the throttle wide open and cranked it over to clear the cylinders. With that logic in mind, I pulled the upper intake and begrudgingly did a new set of Hitachi pink injectors and a new Beck Arnley FPR. Had it do it again after a brief stop at work. One of our customers who is a mechanic said crank position sensor. Changed that out too ( but that's another pain in the ass problem to deal with ! ). Problem persisted ! Aaargh !! Frustration is now starting to set in !! hahaha !!

Read more forum posts than I care to remember, and came to the conclusion it had to be the distributor. I called work ( I work for an auto parts supplier ) and we had a NEW Cardone distributor in stock ( at many of our stores, part # 84-58600 ) so I grabbed one of those cuz it has a lifetime warranty ( which is awesome !! ). Took about 10 mins to re and re and check the timing. Took the truck out for a rip, got up to full temp, pulled into my local Tim Hortons for a coffee and waited 22 mins ( usually how long it took before it would refuse to start ) and tried it again and she fired right up with NO issues for the first time in I dunno how long ! When I talked to the service manager at my local Nissan dealer a few days ago ( he knows I'm a former mechanic and current parts man ), he suggested a few things that I had already checked out, and finally also came up with it likely being the distributor.

Kinda choked that I blew a wad of ca$h and the time doing injectors and crank position sensor, but at least they're done now, and with close to 287,000 kms on them, they likely needed to be done anyway !! Just glad I didn't start replacing other stuff ( that doesn't throw fault codes...) that didn't need to be !!

Anyways ! Distributor !!! If I hadda problem like this again on ANY VG33E , I would point my finger almost immediately at the distributor ! They apparently go away frequently and won't even throw a fault code to give you a clue that that is in fact the problem ! Way cheaper and easier fix than doing the injectors !

Now I can focus my efforts on gettin the scratch together to get my Coastal Offroad winch bumper !! Yay .... eh !!
 

XterraMaui

Test Drive
Ive had this happen in a frontier, changed distributor and same crap happened. Turns out one of the wires on the plug for the distributor was loose and backing out of the connector. Pushed back in until it locked and that was that.
Another thing to consider is anti theft system if you got one. Sometimes the drivers door lock switch/sensor falls off and cause issues cause it doesn’t recognize the door being unlocked bu the key and assumes someone is trying to break in.
 

Mike.F

Test Drive
I have a 2000, and it was the distributor. If I remember right, these have the pickup coil inside the distributors just like the old fox body mustangs, and they cook eventually, due to heat breaking down the heat sink gel. Just throwing it outt yhere....
 
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