Vibration when idling

Xterrian13

Test Drive
Location
NEW JERSEY
Hey anyone,

I have a 2013 Pro4X that runs great in every way. But when the truck is warmed up while at a stop light, I am experiencing a minor vibration. When I shift to neutral it is better, but still present. The engine is smooth and up to spec. Has anyone else encountered something like this as well?

Xterrian13
 

ryandavenport

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Middle Tennessee
Hey anyone,

I have a 2013 Pro4X that runs great in every way. But when the truck is warmed up while at a stop light, I am experiencing a minor vibration. When I shift to neutral it is better, but still present. The engine is smooth and up to spec. Has anyone else encountered something like this as well?

Xterrian13

The idle rpm is super low. In fairly certain there was a technical service bulletin to raise it at the dealership. It can also be fixed with a tuner. I have a 2007. It doesn't do it as bad because it doesn't idle as low as newer ones, but I still get vibrations through the cabin every once in a while.
 

metzican

Suspension Lift
Location
Lafaytte, la
Mine idled bad when at stop lights do to the rpms 600-800. I got a tuner not for this reason but I increased it and it runs great now.

What does yours idle at? if it is in the 900-1000 range I would wonder if something else is acting up.
 

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
Mine idled bad when at stop lights do to the rpms 600-800. I got a tuner not for this reason but I increased it and it runs great now.

What does yours idle at? if it is in the 900-1000 range I would wonder if something else is acting up.

Mine does this too. Just been living with it.
 

eddieb

Bought an X
Location
Orlando
My 13 idles at less than 500 rpm, probably closer to 450. I have similar vibrations, have gotten use to it. I believe the tsb only covers up to 2012, i have not tried my dealer, probaly because i have not had any good experiences with them other than initial purchase.
 

Alaric504

Test Drive
Location
16146
Same here. 650 RPM rough idle at stop in gear. Cleaned Throttle Body and replace d the MAF, (Hitachi). Out of gear in Neutral much smoother and same RPM. Coupling with the drive train may indicate other issues. Going to change the ATF to Valvoline Max Life. Simple drain and fill plan. Fluid looks clear and the under hood label requires Matic S not J. Any concerns if I do not completely remove all of the old ATF? Compatible in a mix with Valvoline?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
The idle rpm is super low. In fairly certain there was a technical service bulletin to raise it at the dealership. It can also be fixed with a tuner. I have a 2007. It doesn't do it as bad because it doesn't idle as low as newer ones, but I still get vibrations through the cabin every once in a while.
There was a TSB for all of the VQ40 powered vehicles on the idle speed.
 

Alaric504

Test Drive
Location
16146
Despite the TSB of which I am aware, I have managed to tame several beasts such as an Explorer and a Volvo S80. The Xterra just seems to want to idle rougher. No apparent issue with the engine mounts. I performed the idle relearn and various simple engine maintenance tasks, yet even though it idles precisely at 650 RPM, (checked by various OBDII devices). As this issue only occurs when in gear at a full stop, I have to conclude there is more of a transaxle or transmission coupling issue. This is why I asked about using Valvoline ATF to replace the Matic S. I have Matic S ordered, but I have had great success with Valvoline on other vehicles for everything but the ATF. My greatest concern is that I will not be doing the flush process, but a drain and fill. This leaves remnants of the previous ATF in the deeper regions of the trans and the TC.
Any thoughts on this?
 

FishCannon

Test Drive
Location
Tacoma, WA
Despite the TSB of which I am aware, I have managed to tame several beasts such as an Explorer and a Volvo S80. The Xterra just seems to want to idle rougher. No apparent issue with the engine mounts. I performed the idle relearn and various simple engine maintenance tasks, yet even though it idles precisely at 650 RPM, (checked by various OBDII devices). As this issue only occurs when in gear at a full stop, I have to conclude there is more of a transaxle or transmission coupling issue. This is why I asked about using Valvoline ATF to replace the Matic S. I have Matic S ordered, but I have had great success with Valvoline on other vehicles for everything but the ATF. My greatest concern is that I will not be doing the flush process, but a drain and fill. This leaves remnants of the previous ATF in the deeper regions of the trans and the TC.
Any thoughts on this?
Just do the drain and fill a few times and you'll be fine. If you're really concerned with it, or if your fluid looks and smells burnt, then take it to ta transmission shop and have it purged. Personally, I do a drain and fill once a year just to keep it fresh, and my transmission shifts like new (130k miles).
 

Matt34

Test Drive
Location
Colorado
I have the same issue, changed motor mounts because one was bad and still there. Got a Bullydog tuner and raised idle by 75 rpm and that pretty much solved it for a long time. Only once did I get a CEL (P0507) when it was really hot out and idling with the AC on max. I have since dropped it to +50rpm and the rough idle is somewhat there but no more CEL after clearing the code.

The rough idle is really prevalent when you have full Aluminum Skids as they will hum.
 
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