Vg33e to Vg33er swap. Who has done it?

xEndlessfight503x

Bought an X
Hey all,
My Vg33e popped a head gasket and since I'd like more power, I feel now is the time for an S/C swap.

Now, before the "they don't make that much power..etc" talk comes in. I am aware and don't mind. I love boost and have some future M90 plans. I've built plenty VG cars, S12, Z31 and an M30. But have yet to swap an X. My plan includes a stock S/C setup with an N/A bottom end to start.

If anyone has links or helpful tips, I am all ears.
 

harryron

The Grumpiest of Mid-Westerners
Location
ohio
I know a guy that has done it but he doesn't really get on here I'll see if I can find him and tag him.
 

BenM

Test Drive
Location
Ohio
Hey partner!

I recently swapped my intake to SC. I have a copy pasta I'll find and post it here when I get home.

It's pretty straightforward, and if you have the heads off its a perfect time to do a light polish on them and replace the knock sensor, and put headers on if you're feeling froggy.

I'll try to get the info for you in about 30min
 

xEndlessfight503x

Bought an X
You rule, @BenM. I did the headers like a week before the head popped. Doh. Haha.

I’m slapping some early Z31 cams in while I’m there and would love to convert it to SC too.
 

BenM

Test Drive
Location
Ohio
You rule, @BenM. I did the headers like a week before the head popped. Doh. Haha.

I’m slapping some early Z31 cams in while I’m there and would love to convert it to SC too.

Nice!

Here is the copy pasta, I forgot until just now. I apologize.

SC Swap list:
What you need working from the Throttle body to the SC to the heads and down

-Throttle, for backup, plus throttle cable. (plus MAF for backup)
-Brake Booster Line (slightly different shape and possibly different valve location)
-Intake tube (from throttle to blower, plus all the tubing connected under the intake, (vacuum and coolant hoses)
-pcv valve and hose from SC *see note 1*
-Blower and attached bypass valve
-Intake adapter
-Fuel Rail and injectors with it. (pull the fuel rail, injectors are attached to the rail, and grab all the little o-rings and plastic spacers)
-Intake manifold

-Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) ..................*see note 2*
-Pulley Bridge for AC/blower plus belt if it looks okay.
-A/C Compressor (ACC) .............*see note 3*
-Harmonic Balancer ...............*see note 3*
-ECM .............*note 4*
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-Note 1: The PCV valve on the NA motor is attached directly to the intake plenum, on the SC engine it's attached to the passenger side valve cover. You can either pull the cover or make a homemade PCV line with two pieces of tubing. The homemade line is what I did and it runs fine.
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-Note 2: You don't actually NEED the BCS, the reason I put it on the list is for people that don't want a constant Check Engine Light (CEL). If you swap the ECM, and you should, it will look for the BCS and when it doesn't see it, it will throw a code for serial link fault and/or turbo something or other. For daily operation it is absolutely fine to run the blower from only vacuum and atmospheric pressure to regulate the blower bypass. You will want to make sure you always run quality 92+ octane though as the ECM will have no way of limiting the boost if it needs to go into limp mode (ie for misfire or knocking).
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
-Note 3: I've been told from someone who did the swap before me that you can run the S/C off the stock balancer and ac compressor by using a GM belt. I have more recently heard that the pulleys (NA and SC) are different sizes on the balancer and will cause a different pulley ratio for the blower. You can measure this to confirm, I have not. That being said it is recommended that you use the 6 rib balancer and ACC pulley, especially if you upgrade pulley sizes or switch to a solid coupler (which almost every reman kit uses).
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
-Note 4: Regarding the ECM, I've been told the NA ECM will run the blower fine, but very rich at idle. If you drive almost all highway it wouldn't be a problem but if you do any real amount of stop and go or city driving (or offroading) it's recommended to get the SC ECM so you aren't running a rich idle, plus the fuel maps are designed for boost. I've heard from other sources that the NA ECM can act ufcky when it sees boost. ***My suggestion is to swap to the SC ECM*** Either way you will get a CEL, the above mentiond BCS or a EGR Valve for 02-04 NA ECMs.
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
Note 5: Unless you get a fresh reman SC, and I don't know if they are available, you will most certainly need whatever donor SC you find rebuilt, either yourself or sent out. If you do it yourself the Cobalt SS uses the same inner parts according to what I've read in the D22 SC group. My rotors weren't bad enough for me to send them out or to buy new. I personally got a full rebuild kit from the UK and only needed to replace the coupler, oil and needle bearings. If you are comfortable with engines and porting/polishing you can follow some youtube videos to learn how to port and polish the blower so it runs more efficiently and slightly cooler. Be careful though, if you widen the outlet too much you'll lose boost, if you widen it just enough you'll run a bit cooler.
..........................................................................................................................................................................................
Note 5a: If you rebuild the blower yourself, DO NOT drain the oil anywhere except a garage, shed or outside. The used oil is by far the worst smelling substance on planet earth. ***This is NOT an over exaggeration***
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Note 6:
You can use a UHMWPE intake spacer for an NA motor for the SC, you just need to modify it slightly to fit the SC pattern, i've seen the pics of this myself. You'll need longer bolts for the intake adapter and possibly a body lift (or cut a hole in the hood)
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Note 7: I only had this happen to 1 bolt during my entire install, but one of my intake bolts yielded during install and nearly broke off in the intake manifold. Make sure you inspect all the bolts you pull and tighten everything in 3 phases even if the FSM doesn't say to. Finger tight, 1/2 spec, full spec.
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Attached you will see the FSM instructions for bolt sequences and torque specs. If they don't upload properly please let me know and I will send them to you directly.

Goodluck!
 

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BenM

Test Drive
Location
Ohio
Hey all,
My Vg33e popped a head gasket and since I'd like more power, I feel now is the time for an S/C swap.

Now, before the "they don't make that much power..etc" talk comes in. I am aware and don't mind. I love boost and have some future M90 plans. I've built plenty VG cars, S12, Z31 and an M30. But have yet to swap an X. My plan includes a stock S/C setup with an N/A bottom end to start.

If anyone has links or helpful tips, I am all ears.


I just now actually read your main post in full.

I think you'll be fine, the power difference is night and day, even without doing anything extra. You'll love it.

-Ben
 

Wilson530

Test Drive
Hey, Ben Im in the middle of this supercharger install but I dont have the bcs so where does the vacuum from the the bypass actuator go too if i dont have the bcs?
 

BenM

Test Drive
Location
Ohio
Hey, Ben Im in the middle of this supercharger install but I dont have the bcs so where does the vacuum from the the bypass actuator go too if i dont have the bcs?


The bottom one stays open to atmosphere. The top one goes into the blower.
 

xEndlessfight503x

Bought an X
@BenM In doing this are you making full boost? I have my Boost by-pass valve hooked up to both sides and It does make boost. Also, I did not add the Boost control solenoid.

@Wilson530 Feel free to check out my build, I have documented the Vg33e to Vg33er swap a bit and will be adding more shortly.
 

Wilson530

Test Drive
Thanks Ben, so that means that the 90 degree bend next to the fuel regulator, behind the supercharger I can cap it off? If so can the bend be use for a boost gauge?
 

xEndlessfight503x

Bought an X
Thanks Ben, so that means that the 90 degree bend next to the fuel regulator, behind the supercharger I can cap it off? If so can the bend be use for a boost gauge?


That is correct. I have one line hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator and the other to a boost gauge.
 

Verz

Test Drive
Location
UAE
Hello

@BenM im desperately seeking your help.

I'm doing a swap of the vg33er into my pathfinder 2002 which has the vg33e.

I managed to get a complete SC 3.3 engine, transmission, ecu, harness, 4x4 and accessories.

The engine is in now and everything seems fine. Except the fact that there is 1 extra plug in the sc harness that should go into my gear shifter while my original harness has only the other 2 plugs. And my shifter doesn't have a matching female plug and I'm stuck. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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