Uneven Rear Brake Wear

westslope

Wheeling
I installed new rear brake pads not so long ago, and then burnished the brakes. I recently removed the rear brakes again to install new brake pad retainers as the originals sent by Rockauto.com were the inccrrect size (see Rear Brake Pad Retainers Do Not Fit).

I have only used the vehicle about 4 occasions since installing the rear brake pads but the pads to not appear to be correctly installed/working properly. The inside rotor is wearing as you would expect but the outside rotor is only wearing on the outer half.

Before installation photo of rear rotor follows:

IMG_4126_1.jpg


After installation and minimal use photos follow:

IMG_4211_1.jpg

IMG_4212_1.jpg


The brake pads are Raybestos Element 3 EHT1101H procured through rockauto.com:


IMG_4214_1.jpg



IMG_4215_1.jpg



The new brake pad retainers look identical to the original ones. They fit tightly into the caliper but the brake pad itself is very hard to maneuver into position.

I am putting CRC synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease on the retainers and the back of pads.

Should I attempt to file the brake pad ears so they fit a little easier into the brake pad retainers? Just drive the Xterra for a while hoping the pads will settle into place?

Suggestions?
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Wow, that contact patch is terrible. Somehow the pad is being pushed in more on that outer section, I'd think the force of the caliper being applied would force it flat regardless of the hardware. The thin metal brackets shouldn't be able to hold the pad crooked when that caliper starts to squeeze.

Did one of the metal clips with the 'EHT' logo that sit between the pad and the caliper get folded over? How are the slide pins?
 

westslope

Wheeling
G_T: Everything is fine except for the fit. Nothing got folded over or bent. I agree; I thought the force of the calipers would oblige the brake pads to become fully parallel (flat) with the rotors. The uneven wear occurred with the original brake pad retainers (cleaned and lubricated) as the ones that came with the replacement Raybestos brake pads were the wrong size.

One set of slide pins were new and lubricated with Syl-Glyde Silcone brake lubricant. The other set were old but thoroughly cleaned and re-lubricated as I had failed to order two pairs (dumb ass..... situation now rectified).

I suspect what that I should do is first file the calipers where the brake pad retainers fit; previously I had used a wire brush and then brake cleaner to clean up. There might be more rust build up than I fully realized.

Then I should lightly file off the edges and contacting surfaces of the brake pad ears. (Once I finish working on the EVAP canister and breather modification.)


FWIW, the vehicle performed well and seemed to brake well. I had not replaced any front brake parts but had thoroughly cleaned and lubricated them last autumn. The rear brakes are not as important as the front but I certainly want them fully functional all the same.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
G_T: Everything is fine except for the fit. Nothing got folded over or bent. I agree; I thought the force of the calipers would oblige the brake pads to become fully parallel (flat) with the rotors. The uneven wear occurred with the original brake pad retainers (cleaned and lubricated) as the ones that came with the replacement Raybestos brake pads were the wrong size.

One set of slide pins were new and lubricated with Syl-Glyde Silcone brake lubricant. The other set were old but thoroughly cleaned and re-lubricated as I had failed to order two pairs (dumb ass..... situation now rectified).

I suspect what that I should do is first file the calipers where the brake pad retainers fit; previously I had used a wire brush and then brake cleaner to clean up. There might be more rust build up than I fully realized.

Then I should lightly file off the edges and contacting surfaces of the brake pad ears. (Once I finish working on the EVAP canister and breather modification.)


FWIW, the vehicle performed well and seemed to brake well. I had not replaced any front brake parts but had thoroughly cleaned and lubricated them last autumn. The rear brakes are not as important as the front but I certainly want them fully functional all the same.


Sounds like a good plan I think, if there isn't a ton of rust on caliper you can probably go nuts on the pad ears. Like you said the rears are a minor part of the braking force but it would drive me nuts too.
 
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