The Strengths (and Pitfalls) Of Bilstein 5100's

scoyoc Mar 26, 2020

  1. scoyoc

    scoyoc Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    111
    Location:
    Moab, UT
    I thought I would take this conversation to a new thread instead of hi-jacking the "Dumb questions" thread.

    Cautionary note: I might have had one too many martini's to explain my self adequately, so be warned... :D

    That's what my buddy, the guy who helps with the wrenching, has be spouting the whole time, and I feel that I don't fully understand this yet... it might take a few renditions. :D My buddy and I frequently talk about how building 4WD's and 4-wheeling is an iterative learning process that you have to experience first hand to fully grasp. Thanks for the illustration and explanation, that cleared things up quite a bit.

    This conversation has me re-thinking my set up... I've currently got the front set up with 5100's set at the lowest spring perch from stock (0.5") and the stock springs giving me about 1.1" lift. The back has Alcan leaf springs with 1.5" lift, 4x4parts.com adjustable shackles set at the lowest setting (0.5"), and 2"-2.5" 5100's giving me 2.25" lift.

    I'm not really looking to run the big stuff (e.g., Rose Garden Hill [7] or Moab Rim [7] for reference), I just want a little more than stock to be able to sail over moderate trails like Fins 'n' Things (4) or Hell's Revenge (5). I would really like to reduce the wheel lifts and I'm beginning to get frustrated with this setup, but don't want to got for a full T-swap, I just want a little more travel.

    Here's what I'm thinking at this point to upgrade the front so it match's the the rear better: Bilstein 6112's with a 600# springs. The question is how to level it out with the rear end? A spacer or increase the spring perch? Do you think the 6112's with 600# springs will add any lift?

    To preface, the next phase will be to go with 33" tires, once I wear our my current set of BFG KO2's...

    I'll be interested to hear what you think of your new springs... Do they do a 600" option? I haven't looked into All Dogs...

    Anyway, ramblings from a cooped up, half drunk man. Time for another martini I think... or maybe just a glass of box wine... Maybe I should post on the "What are you drinking" thread... Let me get a drink first.

    Cheer's boys. I hope you are all healthy and able to get out on the trials.

    Cheers,
    Matt
     
    Xterrorista, TheCrabby1 and TerryD like this.
  2. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    Same here, I just want a little more clearance and articulation. All Dogs did have lighter spring options but also suggested with steel bumper, steel winch and under armor that I'd be happier with the ~650#. I plan to have a buddies shop throw them together and install for me since I don't have the space and would rather not die by spring.

    I'll letcha know.
     
    scoyoc likes this.
  3. TerryD

    TerryD Total Tease Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,967
    Location:
    Covington, Va
    My post from Dumb Question thread:
    Lemme try this. It may take a few renditions...

    View attachment 13414

    The shock sets the travel window for the suspension. Your suspension can not move more than the shock's travel. A spacer lift moves the travel window down.

    You have the same travel as when it was stock but you've moved that window down to gain the lift. You "up travel/down travel %" is unchanged from stock (assuming you don't have coil bucket contact but that's for later). If you had 4" down travel, you still have 4" of down travel.

    When you lift by using heavier rate springs, longer springs or the preload adjustment on the 5100s or Rads or whatever, you are keeping the travel window the same as without the spacer and changing your "up travel/down travel %" within that window.

    Let's say (because I don't have a stock X or access to the actual measurements) you have a shock that has a total stroke of 8". At OE ride height you have a 50/50% of up/ down travel. 4" up and 4" down.

    You add a x" lift top spacer to that shock to lift the vehicle. You have not changed the weight of the vehicle or the spring rate. So you get x" of lift by lowering the entire travel of the shock but you maintain your 50/50 split in up/ down travel.

    Now. Let's say you pull that spacer and instead you use the 5100's adjustable spring seat to get x" lift. Now what you've done is gained x" of lift by subtracting x" from your down travel amount and adding it to the up travel amount. You are still operating in the same hypothetical 8" of travel, but you are in a different location in that travel window. (4" + x") up and (4" - x") down. Adding a heavier rate spring to lift or a longer spring will have the same effect as moving the spring seat.


    First things first, we're playing with IFS. IFS with short OE control arms will not post impressive travel numbers. You can get usable travel out of them but even in highly modified form they will not do what a SFA does in mostly stock trim. It's the nature of the beast.

    Bilstein 5100:
    • Affordable good quality front shock
    • Valved to provide OE ride with OE spring rate (~430in/lb IIRC)
    • Same mounting length as an Extended Radflow (+0.25")
    • Not rebuildable so you just order two new ones and dumpster the old ones
    In my experience, having had the Fat Bob's Garage coil-over converted 5100s with 600lb/in springs on them, they will not control those spring rates. I even spoke with Greg at PRG and he said that the 5100 isn't designed for that and that it would suffer. Having run them for even the little amount of time I did, I will agree whole heartedly. It hopped and bounced and just wasn't good. I bought a set of Extended Rads with 650lb/in coils ASAP and the ride was 1000x better, even going with a heavier spring rate and still running an OE bumper and no winch or skids.


    Stock Width Suspension: You are very limited in what you can do to it and maintain any down travel that won't adversely affect the life of your ball joints, TREs and CVs. According to PRG's suspension post, you have about 2" of down travel over stock that you can gain before you bind the CVs and start causing issues. That requires some form of aftermarket control arm to get that added droop and either longer shocks or a spacer.

    My setup is as follows in the front:
    • Extended Rads w/ 650lb/in coils
    • SPC UCAs and coil buckets ground for full swing clearance
    • 0.5" thick (1" lift) spacer on top of the Rads
    With this setup, I have roughly 2.75" of lift the way my coil overs are set, carrying a full Shockworks bumper and Warn Zeon winch with synthetic line. I only have about 2 inches of down travel though. It can ride a little rough in the rocks because of this. Am I happy with this setup? Mostly... On the highway it rides GREAT. It carries that heavy load on the front end very well and handles good. We take it on family trips all the time. It's 80% my DD. With this setup, I have enough up travel that my upper ball joints are hitting my inner wheel wells on full compression.

    Now, some things I've been thinking about:


    THE most common lift for a 2nd Gen Xterra is spacers in the front. It's cheap, quick and gains you clearance. It also operates within the limits of the ball joints, TREs and CVs. I've been wanting to put a 1.5" lift spacer on top of my Rads and then adjust the preload to where I wind up with about the same 2.5-2.75" of total lift.

    That would increase my down travel in the front by roughly 1". That's a lot of work (but not much money really) for an increase in down travel of 1" but I'd like to try it. That will put me right up against the maximum amount of down travel that the OE width front suspension is capable of.

    And with all that said:

    To buy just my front setup as it sits from Nisstec would be $1631.05 before tax or shipping. Add another $180 to that because I put new LCAs on when I did the lift anyways.

    A Titan swap using 2.0" body Rads, SPC UCAs, and the extended brake hoses from Nisstec is $1675.60 + shipping and tax. Add in $180 worth of LCAs and a set of the QX56 CVs (can't find part # right now) and that's only about $200-300 more total than my setup and almost double the total travel.

    And it's not written anywhere that you HAVE to try to run 35's or really high lift on a Titan Swap. You could easily run ~3" of lift total and 285s on stock wheels and have great wheel travel, the same ground clearance as my setup and for not much more monies. I've actually considered this as my next step. I'm happy on my 285s, I'm happy on my 2-3" lift but that little bit of added front travel would be helpful.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2020
    Prime, Xterrorista, Zack. and 2 others like this.
  4. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    *I'm done 2nd guessing*
    GD'it!

    Makes a lot of sense to sell what I have and just pony up right now. You sob..
     
    scoyoc and TerryD like this.
  5. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    Another coffee whilst juggling priorities..
     
    scoyoc, Zack. and TerryD like this.
  6. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    So I've decided to go with the 5100s and the 650# lift springs from All Dogs. If I don't like how it handles I'll start sourcing the Tswaparoo stuffs.

    I think they'll work, they're real sexy lookin~
     
    scoyoc likes this.
  7. scoyoc

    scoyoc Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    111
    Location:
    Moab, UT
    Yeah, I've been thinking about @TerryD 's post the past couple days while juggling work and home-schooling (thanks COVID-19... :mad:). I just need a minute to think about it and author a coherent response.

    My initial not-completely though out plan is to go ahead with the Bil 6112's and 600# springs and maybe a 1" space, then delete my front sway-bar. That would maintain the the up and down travel while leveling out with the rear end a little (lifted 2.25" right now).

    But I need to digest @TerryD 's post a little more. Additionally, @IM1RU wrote a good post recently on a forum that shall not be named arguing the benefits of Radflo's in a similar discussion.

    It looks like I need to have a martini and think this all over. :D
     
    TerryD and Xterrorista like this.
  8. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    ufckin ufck. I'm allowed to say that, I've been drinking since 420. Ha, he said 420!

    Lemme go read this article.. I think you can link it, we don't like tnx but we'll take their info since it's half ours anyway, correct @Prime ?
     
    scoyoc likes this.
  9. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin Super Moderator

    Messages:
    38,208
    Location:
    Denver-ish
    Copy it from there and paste it here.
     
  10. JeffPro4x

    JeffPro4x Hot Pipe Super Moderator Supporting Member

    Messages:
    9,636
    Location:
    Glenside, PA
    Real talk: if you're even entertaining the possibility of Titan swapping at some point, just do it now. Save the cost of 6 different suspension setups. Wish I did.
     
    Xterrorista, Zack., scoyoc and 3 others like this.
  11. IM1RU

    IM1RU Wheeling Supporting Member

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    SLC, UT
    This is the response I wrote over "there" I believe this is what @scoyoc was referring to......

    Alrighty, here goes.

    First of all how high are you lifted now?
    Your ideal set up should not be based on lift height, but rather obtaining maximum droop and flex with whatever set up you buy. This takes time and the ability to measure flex and droop.
    At the very minimum you want to retain 2" of droop in the front, a little more is better (this is critical for flex, and not binding the ball joints / CV's) . If you are still running your sway bars, I recommend setting up the suspension without, and then re installing them, or better yet throw them away. You'll be amazed at the offroad difference

    I personally would recommend the following items:
    Front Suspension:
    Radflo 2.5" extended length coil overs with 600 - 650 lb springs depending on bumper / whinch (see comment below about bumpers).
    SPC UCA's (because they have easily replaceable ball joints that are greasable)
    Adjustable cam bolts
    (New Stock LCA's because your gonna have to cut)

    Rear Suspension:
    Alcans at whatever weight you need (My guess 400- 500 lbs over stock) and 2" - 2.5 " of lift.
    PRG adjustable shackles (set on lowest setting)
    Radflo emulsion or remote res shock for 2-4" lift
    Timbren bumstops

    Remember that the rear will settle, so do not try to match them at first. If you want it level, set the front about an inch lower than the rear, and give it time. Also remember that you want the rear to remain level while you tow, which means it won't be normally.

    I would not recommend going with the Aluminum plate bumper. The weight savings vs cost does not make up for the fact that aluminum will not take the beating steel will... They have failed on occasion (besides, your hosing your aerodynamics anyway, spend the $ on suspension).

    You need to take your Xterra loaded with the items you always carry and weight it at a CAT scale (front and rear axle done at the same time on different pads), and then again with what you take wheeling / camping. Compare those numbers with the stock weights listed in the FSM and add the tounge weight of your trailer. That will get you the real numbers of the "over stock" weight you need to order your Alcans.

    I am not familiar with Deavers but they are in CA, so that may make more sense.

    Keep in mind Alcans are made for retaining the stock pinion angle, and most likely will not need shims, but that is not guaranteed.

    That set up, will last you and your family for many many years, and can be rebuilt if needed.
     
  12. IM1RU

    IM1RU Wheeling Supporting Member

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    SLC, UT
    There seems to be a continuing misunderstanding regarding terms.

    1. Travel - This is the amount the wheel can travel up and down, and IT IS A FIXED NUMBER. The only way you can increase this number in the front is to T-Swap the suspension. That will increase your total possible travel in the front to 10.5" any number you read that is above that, is complete BS. It's just the way IFS is. There may be larger travel numbers available from custom long travel set ups like Dirt King or CJD, but I don't know that for sure.

    Point of reference- my T-Swapped front suspension travels 9" limited by bumpstops and limit straps.


    2. Articulation or (Flex) - this is the amount of travel as compared to the other side of the vehicle, or front to rear...... The easiest and cheapest way to let your suspension articulate is to get rid of the sway bars. Although this is not recommended if you are running STOCK suspension.

    Point of reference - any single wheel on my rig can be lifted 22" off the ground while still having all three others on the ground.


    3. Clearance - the actual amount of space between the ground and the lowest point on the underside of the vehicle. The ONLY way to get more clearance, is to put on larger tires. (i.e. 33's or 35's)

    4. Lift - the amount of height added to the Body / Chassis with either a body lift or suspension lift over the factory height set up.

    5. Droop - The amount the tire will continue to "sag" from it's normal full vehicle weight position. (i.e. like when you jack up the vehicle)


    When you lift (or even drop) via the suspension, regardless of how you do it, it is a give and take process. You cannot lift and gain travel. You can Swap and gain travel, but not lift, those are 2 different things. Again remember, the amount of travel available is a fixed number, so you either gain droop and loose compression, or loose droop and gain compression. Oddly enough, it is droop that you want to maintain..... a minumum of 2" - 2.5"
     
  13. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin Super Moderator

    Messages:
    38,208
    Location:
    Denver-ish
    This is exactly why I still have stock uppers.
     
    TerryD likes this.
  14. TerryD

    TerryD Total Tease Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,967
    Location:
    Covington, Va
    Good call. I added my post from the Dumb Questions thread to my earlier post to help clarify as well.
     
    IM1RU likes this.
  15. scoyoc

    scoyoc Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    111
    Location:
    Moab, UT
    & @TerryD & @Prime or whoever else can chime in...

    So what's happening when I set my spring perch on my 5100's to 0.5? Am I gaining or loosing droop?

    Now I feel enlightened and confused.
     
  16. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin Super Moderator

    Messages:
    38,208
    Location:
    Denver-ish
    Droop will not change. Lift will change. Overall travel will not change.
     
    scoyoc likes this.
  17. TerryD

    TerryD Total Tease Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,967
    Location:
    Covington, Va
    Droop from static ride height will be reduced. See the first half of my original posted quoted in my post here.
     
    scoyoc likes this.
  18. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin Super Moderator

    Messages:
    38,208
    Location:
    Denver-ish
    Yeah yeah
     
    TerryD likes this.
  19. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    Would this be Titan swap parts? I have that list started somewhere but had decided to put these on for the time being. Now.. I'm thinking since I couldn't get much done Mon, I may just start picking up things for the TS. I didn't want to drop 9 on Rads, 5 on UCAs plus all the smaller bits n pieces all at once but I've been saving for this so...

    I'm going to sleep and will read these educational posts again and come up with the best approach. What would be first to get done or wait till I've got it all in hand before starting? shiat, I'm chompin at the bit here.

    Plus, I've got this new diff cover for a 226 but I still have this c200...
     
    scoyoc likes this.
  20. IM1RU

    IM1RU Wheeling Supporting Member

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    SLC, UT
    The parts I listed were not for a T swap. However, if you plan on T swapping at some point, just save your $ and do it. Spending 2K to lift it now, and then 3K to t swap later is just silly.

    The list changes a tad, and get considerably more spendy.

    if you keep the R 180 You'll need:

    Titan length coil overs (again I recommend the 2.5" or even the remote res)
    SPC UCA's
    Titan LCA's
    R 180 Titan width CV's
    Extended brake lines
    Larger bump stops (I suggest Timbren), and you need to relocate them on the LCA

    Chances are good if you are running 33's you'll need to trim sheet metal.
     
    scoyoc, Xterrorista and JeffPro4x like this.
  21. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    Hmm.. thx for your responses. Well, my thoughts have been all over the place on this. Bare with me,
    I've been left on the trail several times by groups because I was too afraid to take my rig any farther after the scraping I was hearing underneath, so bigger tires and armor went on the list. Then I took my parents who were visiting on a mountain drive, super mild and got where I didn't feel comfortable going any further and ended up stuck doing a 5 point turn around. (pic) I
    could have easily winched out on my own so a winch went on the list.
    Yep, now I was bumper shopping too.

    Got coupons so ordered a SW bumper, armor and sliders in one swoop.

    While they were being built I found out with the extra weight, I'd need heavier springs. I did a bit of research and bought a Nisstec 2" spacer and adj. 5100s from a forum member, got 2" shackles and 5100s to get the rear up. (along with ubolt flip cuz I'm an impulse buyer)
    So now the hunt for springs.

    HALT! STOP! HANG IT UP!
    I feel a bit sicks so I head to the ER.. 91 days later, with a continuing schedule of chemo for next 2yrs, I'm released.

    Since then I'm cancer free but don't have the energy/stamina to really turn my own wrenches. I'm getting stronger but even after a year in remission I'm not 100%.
    While recouping I got some heavier lift springs to go with what I'd already bought.

    Now a wheeling buddy who's got a commercial automotive shop offered me 40% off the shops labor rate to install it all knowing I don't have the space or energy. So I had a winch shipped. Now I've got a disconnect switch on the way..

    *Would y'all put this shiat on the truck for the 8-10hrs of labor he quoted or sell it and just pony up for rads and alcans which I'd have to budget for and may be awhile?

    Being stuck at home, unable to work on my own due to HOA and knowing buddies small business needs work I just want to stop looking at all these parts and have it done for me but... I don't want to be pissed off and wanting to upgrade immediately, I mean I'm not looking to go on Hard trails just a bit more than a stocker can handle..

    My brain hurts. I wish I'd done more research before I got all this stuff. 20190622_160925.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2020 at 7:37 AM
    scoyoc likes this.
  22. TerryD

    TerryD Total Tease Supporting Member

    Messages:
    1,967
    Location:
    Covington, Va
    You're experiencing the full gambit of emotions we all go through as a rig evolves, but just all at once. So first things first, what is you "end goal" for the Xterra? I wanted a good mannered family adventure rig and I think I've hit my mark with what's basically the "ultimate OE width" set-up. Bur if you're looking for budget friendly performance, you've got about the best stuff for an OE with lift there is.

    If you're not looking to get crazy with your Xterra and just want an improvement ob it's capability then with the parts you already have, here's what I'd do.

    Get extended studs for the front 5100 and a 3/4" thick spacer for the top of it. Add some 500-550lb/in coils. That's nearing the top of what they'll handle but they should be fine as long as you don't try to baja it. You should only have to run the 1st notch up on the front ti get around 2" of lift. I've heard you can run the OME heavy load coils on a set of 5100s and they're like 530lb/in I believe. @IM1RU can correct me on that.

    I'm not sure what rear springs you have, but I'm assuming they are full packs? You'll want to extend your rear bump stop by the amount you lift with the shackles to prevent inverting the leaves and killing your pack.

    That will be a good OE width set-up and will carry the bumper and winch good. You'll want those installed before trying to adjust your ride height though.

    You'll also most likely want to keep your swaybar in place with those coil rates.
     
    Xterrorista and scoyoc like this.
  23. IM1RU

    IM1RU Wheeling Supporting Member

    Messages:
    448
    Location:
    SLC, UT
    @Xterrorista

    I truly hope your cancer stays in remission, and you continue a long happy life in good health. I'm afraid you are suffering though from the very same frustration we have all felt. Every single damn time I modded one thing, I needed to mod 2 more. For a while there my wife was ready to kill me. Now that I'm 25k into it... not including repairs, or all the shiat I carry in the back. I don't spend hardly anything.... tempting fate now....lol.

    The moral is, it's your rig, it only needs to be what you want it to be, with the mods you want, done how you want, with he gear you want. The important part is knowing what you want it to do.

    What works for me may not be right for you. There is no "one way to do it". I know people who have been thoroughly unhappy with OME leaf springs, and go to Alcan, I also know folks that have gone the opposite way. Each of them purchasing both sets.

    Suspensions are a whole game unto themselves, with so many options of what to do, and how to do it... even with the limited aftermarket support Nissan has.

    Regardless of what you do, at some point (if you keep the rig long enough) you'll make changes. It really isn't a once and done for anyone. It is however a money pit and a bad investment. So you either need to accept that as fact, and then go enjoy it.


    I'm afraid when it comes to Bilsteins all I know is what I took off and tossed. However, spring rates are just that. I still stand by my earlier assessment, 600 lb coils for plate bumper and winch. I think 550 lb coils might be too smushy.

    Think of it like this. There are basically 2 types of coils, progressive and linear. The type used on our rigs is linear... that means to compress a 500 lb spring 1 inch it will take 500 lbs, to compress it another inch it takes another 500 ls and so on. Doing a little math you can see how 50lbs difference in spring rate can actually add up quickly.
     
    Xterrorista, scoyoc and TerryD like this.
  24. scoyoc

    scoyoc Bought an X Supporting Member

    Messages:
    111
    Location:
    Moab, UT
    I like to think of mod-ing my X as an iterative process and an opportunity to learn. Something I don't expect to get right the first time, or potentially ever.

    For example, I just finished Phase 1 which was conceived about 2.5 years ago. The primary goal of this phase was to get a @Maxterra bumper with tire carrier and fuel can holders. To do that I need to upgrade my rear suspension, so I started with a set of Timbren bumpstops and Alcan leaf springs (w/ 1.5" lift because why not). To level it out a little put on Bil 5100's set to 0.5" in the front and kept the stock springs. This set up ran nicely form most trails, except the harder ones (see build page for examples) where I get a lot of wheel lifting going on. Mostly that's okay; a little heady at times. Only one real scare when my front passenger tire fell into a hole that I didn't know was there while going downhill. After putting on the rear bumper I wanted to beef up the rear shocks (put on a set of 2"-2.5" Bil 5100's) and put in an adjustable shackle. I got that all done last month.

    Maybe it's just me, but now I feel that the front end comes off the ground easier. But it's only been a month and I haven't repeated any trials yet to really get a good sense of how the new rear end has changed things. I really like the 5100's in the rear, that's a bit of a game changer. The ride might be a little stiffer, but the rough roads and mild 4-wheeling have felt much smoother and capable.

    Now I'm thinking about Phase 2: loose the wheel lifts and put on a winch, while maintaining the DD/family camper. I'm not looking to start hitting the Difficult trails where I really need 3+ inches of travel. All I really want to do is keep driving the caliber of trails I already drive, just without so many wheel lifts. I'm thinking that when I decide to get my next pair of front shocks/springs I can sell my 5100s with the stock springs already set up for that guy who is where I was at 2.5 years ago. That dude will be psyched and I'll get free shipping on my new shocks or winch. Everyone wins.

    Anyway, incremental steps is how I think of this game; you gotta try stuff out to see if it works for you. @Xterrorista, I think you have the makings of a great 1st phase to your build and you should probably run with it. If you want to re-work the front end in a month or so, you can sell those components with minimal loss, and some other dude will be psyched. Shoot, I had a 4-Runner buddy go through 3 sets of front shocks last fall (Icon's, something else, before he settled on Bil 6112's, I think...).

    Cheers!
     
    Xterrorista likes this.
  25. General_Tarfun

    General_Tarfun Wheeling

    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    That's the truth, when I pulled off my Bilsteins from the 1st time I replaced the shocks (no lift yet) I sold them quickly and for what I thought was a good price considering they had around 24k miles.
     
    Xterrorista likes this.
  26. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    I wanted a camping, easy/mod trail capable and streetable rig. I've got something alot newer and nicer for a daily but I tend to drive the X more..
    As far as I can tell I'm totally stock right now with 214k miles of worn shocks/leaves. I love the truck and figure if I set it up right I'd be willing to spend the money to swap another engine in when needed, but still runs like a top.
    I planned to do this all a bit at a time although health, weather and the HOA just kept pushing the parts I'd started buying to the side.
    I really want to do the work myself, learning what I don't know as I go but.. Now that the town's on lockdown, all I've been doing is looking at these pile of parts filling the dining room and parking next to my bumper and skids everytime I get to work. It has made me really debate taking the buddies offer of 40% off his shop labor to put it all on.

    If I can get a ride back from Longmont I think I'm going to drop it off tomorrow.. Oh wait, it's today already, damn.
     
    scoyoc, General_Tarfun and TerryD like this.
  27. Xterrorista

    Xterrorista Sliders Supporting Member

    Messages:
    919
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    IMG_20200317_212200_01.jpg
    Thx brutha! Feeling better all the time but I'm essential and need mod $ so still working.. I'm wearing all my PPE when I leave the house tho..
     
    scoyoc and TerryD like this.
  28. General_Tarfun

    General_Tarfun Wheeling

    Messages:
    428
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA

    I think it helps to do the work yourself in terms of learning how changes made to the suspension translate to driving performance. That said, 40% off labor is too good of a deal to pass on lol.
     
    TerryD likes this.
  29. JeffPro4x

    JeffPro4x Hot Pipe Super Moderator Supporting Member

    Messages:
    9,636
    Location:
    Glenside, PA
    The rear has a ton more travel than the front. Always has. You're just noticing it more now that you've modded the rear
     
    TerryD likes this.

Share This Page