The Metal Shop

RATTFINK

XN OG Admin.
Founding Member
Location
Conroe, TX
Welcome to The Metal Shop. This area is only for members to discuss what you are building, techniques, tips, products, tools used, skills, etc.

*This area is not for selling products. If you want to sell a product, you need to contact the site Admins and pay for XN sponsorship*
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Question about rear bumper swing arm material. Square tube vs. DOM tubing. My intention was to use 2x2x3/16" or 1/4" wall. I get a deal on the square 1/4" wall.

For strenght what would be the DOM thickness since it doesn't take as much to be as strong. And what's the ave. going cost difference per ft?
 

Maxterra

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
West Haven, UTAH
Most, as I do, use 1/8x2x3 for the swingarm itself, and then use 1-3/4 x.120 or .134 DOM for the tire mount.
1/8x2x2 is also more than enough for the tire mount.

The 1/4" wall is way too heavy, as is the 3/16 IMO

If you've not got a tube bender or notcher for the round tubing, just go with square tube.

In quantities under 40', the .120 wall 1-3/4 Dom is running about $5/ft
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Most, as I do, use 1/8x2x3 for the swingarm itself, and then use 1-3/4 x.120 or .134 DOM for the tire mount.
1/8x2x2 is also more than enough for the tire mount.

The 1/4" wall is way too heavy, as is the 3/16 IMO

If you've not got a tube bender or notcher for the round tubing, just go with square tube.

In quantities under 40', the .120 wall 1-3/4 Dom is running about $5/ft

Swing arm: 2x3x1/8"
Tire mount: 2x2x1/8"
I'm gonna quess the braces for the tire mount are 1.5x1.5x1/8".
Unfortunatly I don't have a bender so square or rect. are my only options.
$5 a ft. ummm square/rect will work just fine for me...lol

What about the pivot that holds the bolt, 3" of DOM is what I was thinking, but again at what thikness?

Thanks Max
 
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Maxterra

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
West Haven, UTAH
On the hinge "tube" I use 2" x 3.25 lg round stock and bore out to 1.25" for the bronze flange bushings and 1" bolt.

Could probably hook u up with one if u need.

Close up of the hinge.
IMG_3474.jpg
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
You BORED it out???!!! HOLEY CRAP...how often do you sharpen your bit??? Or maybe I should ask how many do you go thru? Unless you're one of those fancy smancy fabers that have a lazer or hi-pressure water...lol

Actually that's just about what I figured it should be, but I was going to look for the DOM already with the hole and get 3"s of it then drill press the zerk hole. If I can't find the DOM I'll be in touch...thanks.

Creepy...I can't take pics until after the fact on doing something, it's just me in my garage. I tried to take a pic as I worked but got a lens full of blur and sparks and burned da crap outta something I didn't want to ...lol
 

Maxterra

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
West Haven, UTAH
I'm waiting for the new hinge plates to come in. The one in the pic is far too labor intensive to build anymore.
Ought to be in within a couple of weeks.
 

J Everett

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Houma, LA
Light basket #2? You have any pics of the first one? I'm having a difficult time visualizing the end product.
 

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
YEah..Im planning on building a full rack for me and maybe one other..

This one is going to a member here to try out..
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
I used a 3/4 diameter 7" barrel hinge for the swing arm on my tire carrier. We'll see if it's strong enough...
aeebc3d3-50bc-bcec.jpg

This is a hinge used for big gates and safes...



Sent from my brain using technology
 
S

Steeze

Guest
Tire carrier hinge from AtoZ fabrications... it's bomb-proof!

Here are the components with the exception of the bearing rings which are already installed.



One ring on each side. These hold the bearing and are the hardest part to install... I use a mallet and a big socket takes a minute but the rest is cake after that.



Bottom view with the bearing seal... these needed to be welded before final assembly. You wouldn't want the heat distorting things, however I think the rings are ok.



Top with the retaining washer and castle nut. Tighten it down, put in the cotter pin, and top it off with the dust cap. Of course you'll want to add some axle grease or something but that's it. Definitely recommend it...



 

Creepy Cruiser

Sliders
Site Sponsor
Founding Member
Location
6 Feet Under
Tire carrier hinge from AtoZ fabrications... it's bomb-proof!

Here are the components with the exception of the bearing rings which are already installed.



One ring on each side. These hold the bearing and are the hardest part to install... I use a mallet and a big socket takes a minute but the rest is cake after that.



Bottom view with the bearing seal... these needed to be welded before final assembly. You wouldn't want the heat distorting things, however I think the rings are ok.



Top with the retaining washer and castle nut. Tighten it down, put in the cotter pin, and top it off with the dust cap. Of course you'll want to add some axle grease or something but that's it. Definitely recommend it...




Do you have a link to them?
 

metzican

Suspension Lift
Location
Lafaytte, la
Tire carrier hinge from AtoZ fabrications... it's bomb-proof!

Here are the components with the exception of the bearing rings which are already installed.



One ring on each side. These hold the bearing and are the hardest part to install... I use a mallet and a big socket takes a minute but the rest is cake after that.



Bottom view with the bearing seal... these needed to be welded before final assembly. You wouldn't want the heat distorting things, however I think the rings are ok.



Top with the retaining washer and castle nut. Tighten it down, put in the cotter pin, and top it off with the dust cap. Of course you'll want to add some axle grease or something but that's it. Definitely recommend it...




That looks very stout. Is it me or does it just look like a trailer spindle with the bearing housing?
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Hey all you METAL HEADS...sorry I couldn't resist...

Anyway... I've NOT been having any luck finding a way to bend 2" od x .120 wall DOM tube. No one seems to have a mandrel bender OR they just don't want to do the job. However I finally found a place in Chicago but they want $150 to bend 2 90* bends in 2 tubes for a bumper.

Is that expensive? Cause I have no clue as to what something like this should cost.
 

ThePlasticOne

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Boston, MA
My shop officially charges $150/hr for labor, although we don't always charge for full hours. And putting two bends in a single piece of pipe by hand is harder than you might think - half a degree off on the Z plane and you'll either have wasted a pipe or you'll spend a lot of time and energy torquing it into spec.
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
So the $150 I was quoted was most likely an hourly rate and not $34.50 per bend. Somehow that doesn't sound as bad. Still $150 though.

Another place quoted me $300. He said it was due to sets up cost. The first tube would be the most expensive and the rest gradually would get cheaper.
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Another Metal Inquiry... I'm looking for someone in the Chicago area that has a plasma cutter and is willing to help out a fellow X owner? I have a job for you.
 

ThePlasticOne

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Boston, MA
Last week I helped my shop build a new mini-furnace. This week we're going to cast some aluminum!

1044458_10200226854854108_1826811428_n.jpg


Not making anything special, just a few little toys and trinkets. Next time I'll see about making some Xterra emblems or something.
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
HEY... A friend of the wife's family has offered to let me use his plasma cutter. It's a 110V and will cut up to 1/4". I need a crash course on how to use it... CAN ANYBODY out there gimma some info?!?!?! I've got plenty of scrap steel to practice on.
 

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
it is a lot like an arc welder with an air compressor hooked up to it. The arc melts the metal, and the compressor blows it out of the way.
 

rokdaddy

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
New Mexico
Check to see if it has it's own built in compressor (most 110v plasmas do). If It doesn't, you will need to hook it up to an external compressor.

I'm going to guess that cutting 1/4" steel with a machine running on 110v/20A service will give a pretty rough cut - thinner stuff will give you a cleaner cut. But that's what angle grinders are for; just make sure you "color" outside the lines enough.

Have fun... plasmas are awesome.


-Rok
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Thanks guys... I do have a compressor just in case it doesn't. I also have an angle grinder for neatness if needed. My idea is to cut some letters in a C8x11.50 channel to take some of the weight off for the rear bumper and corner pieces. The Waterjet and Laser cutting services here want $20 per letter. Which is waaaaaay out of my price range.
 

ThePlasticOne

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Boston, MA
In my experience, most plasma cutters with onboard air aren't the best tools in the world. External compressor or bust!


it is a lot like an arc welder with an air compressor hooked up to it. The arc melts the metal, and the compressor blows it out of the way.

Technically incorrect. The arc ignites pressurized air, creating a focused stream of directed plasma, which oxidizes the metal (at least with air cutting), compromising its structure. The oxidiation in combination with the heat contributes to the melting of the metal, which is pushed away by simple air pressure.
 
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