The Free Xterra Build

ThatGuy

Need Bigger Tires
Supporting Member
Location
Big Island
its not talent and skill bud, I'm certifiably too retarded to pay someone that knows what they're doing
Yeah but at least you can get your truck running again!! I rebuilt some Yamaha two stroke track bikes but that is about it. Cam shafts and coolant confuse me!
 

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
Yeah but at least you can get your truck running again!! I rebuilt some Yamaha two stroke track bikes but that is about it. Cam shafts and coolant confuse me!
so, as far as an x and dropping the pan, its little things, like in a video I watched a dude was taking the cv shaft bolts out with a ratchet wrench, thats wasted time, if you have manual locking hubs, which you should heathen, rotate the axle/bolts to where they're facing the rear of the vehicle and with a socket/wobble/extension you can impact em out

you'll never beat an individual task by miles, but a little bit here and there has you beating book time by miles
 

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
C6202D15-0EAA-4FAE-AF7D-05DB8E3D4CEA.jpeg9F9B25E4-AF5D-4258-9FD1-1D5E378518C4.jpeg
there it is! Bumpers are complete, lights are installed and operational as Is the winch, I’ll get my post count up later with some night shots, the amber backlight really is cool
 

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
center link, camber bolts, wipers, atf, and transmission filter are on the way, now to go rent a uhaul and take it home for the oil pan
 

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
Dropped the front diff to access the oil pan, here is how I did it if anybody is looking for a how to
1. Jack the front of the vehicle up and support it on jack stands, remove the front tires

xonstands.jpg
2. Disconnect the front drive shaft from the front differential, the bolts are 14mm, and if they haven't been out before, nissan used red loctite from the factory, heat is your friend here, if they give you a hard time heat the nut with a torch for a bit, despite that, I still had to cut one out with a die grinder

xdriveshaft.jpgbolt.jpg
3. with the driveshaft unbolted, you can now move to the cv shafts, they are held in with 6 12mm bolts per side, using locking hubs, you can lock the shaft, rotate it, undo the bolts, and then rotate it again to get the others, I took a pry bar and locked it into the lug studs to hold the shaft from spinning, you can impact these, I used a 6 inch extension with a wobble
cvshaft.jpg
cvshaftcombo.jpg
4.) remove the guard that you remove to access the oil filter, 4 10 mm bolts, remove the sway bar, 14mm bolt and nut where it contacts the lower control arms and 4 14mm bolts to the cross member, I discarded this as with my suspension set up and intended use for the truck, it will have minimal impact on the way my truck rides/drives
oilfilterguard.jpgsway bar.jpg
5.) with that removed, you can focus on the crossmember and differential hard mounts (4 17mm bolts and nuts at the front, 2 17mm bolts and nuts at the rear) before you do that though, if its never been out before, the cross member is also tack welded in, I used a die grinder
crossmemberbolts.jpgcrossmembernut.jpg
6.) with all that removed, you can lower the crossmember, I'm fortunate enough to have access to a forklift to make this part easier, if ya don't a good floor jack and a 2nd pair of hands will be handy, remember, don't remove all the bolts till you get something to catch the differential with.
xfrontdiff.jpg
7. applaud yourself and have a beer, the biggest part of getting to your x's leaking oil pan (hopefully not as bad as mine was) is over
 

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
Did not get hardly anything done, New pan is on and torqued tho I still have to put the brackets for the transcooler lines on, the plates, starter, and diff back, I did torque to spec, fill it, and I replaced some hose clamps on the power steering hoses as it was visibly leaking and the hose seemed fine, the hose clamp style, not so much, adjusted alternator beltredline.jpg
 
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