- Location
- Big Island
What’s leaking? Your X looks awesome!
The Free Xterra Build
- Thread starter relentless044
- Start date
Oil pan, probably
- Location
- Big Island
Ouch.
I had to replace the gasket on mine. Wasn’t easy cause of all the trans axle stuff. But beautiful gen1 truck. Wish mine was that cool
Ive looked at youtube vids and looked at my x, I think I can do it in a day, then its cure time
- Location
- Big Island
And let me clarify, I had mine done. I don’t have the skill and talent of most you guys here
its not talent and skill bud, I'm certifiably too retarded to pay someone that knows what they're doing
- Location
- Big Island
Yeah but at least you can get your truck running again!! I rebuilt some Yamaha two stroke track bikes but that is about it. Cam shafts and coolant confuse me!
so, as far as an x and dropping the pan, its little things, like in a video I watched a dude was taking the cv shaft bolts out with a ratchet wrench, thats wasted time, if you have manual locking hubs, which you should heathen, rotate the axle/bolts to where they're facing the rear of the vehicle and with a socket/wobble/extension you can impact em out
you'll never beat an individual task by miles, but a little bit here and there has you beating book time by miles
yay wiring
Storage bin turned into a switch panel 
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
Nice! Looks like you need to clean your trim panels as much as I do...
Out of curiosity, why only three switches? You could easily fit another two switches in there...
That’s all the lights I have
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
I only have three at the moment as well. Bumper, roof light bar, and backup lights, but I also plan on adding some to the rack (eventually). I wired up 4 switches and all my Relays as well, so it can just plug them in.
Previous owner Deff slacked on cleaning
- Location
- Covington, Va
About $50 over blue book and less than my deductible......
After a brief momentary lapse of reason I got my little lights wired
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
Those are bright! I like it.
And the driving lights ain’t even wired up yet
there it is! Bumpers are complete, lights are installed and operational as Is the winch, I’ll get my post count up later with some night shots, the amber backlight really is cool
ufcker looks badass don’t it 
- Location
- Burtonsville, Md
Please , Please throw some dirt on there !! It's just too dam clean 
Ordered the slightly bigger compressor and tire inflation kit from desert ray who seemed pumped to have a customer that wasn’t inquiring about angry eyes for a jk
called the desert rat recommendation for compressor/locker installation, $12-1300
lets go with that
lets go with that
My little light control panel turned out slick me thinks, however the radio I bought ain’t gonna work
Hello darkness my old friend 
center link, camber bolts, wipers, atf, and transmission filter are on the way, now to go rent a uhaul and take it home for the oil pan
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
Pretty!!
Dropped the front diff to access the oil pan, here is how I did it if anybody is looking for a how to
1. Jack the front of the vehicle up and support it on jack stands, remove the front tires
2. Disconnect the front drive shaft from the front differential, the bolts are 14mm, and if they haven't been out before, nissan used red loctite from the factory, heat is your friend here, if they give you a hard time heat the nut with a torch for a bit, despite that, I still had to cut one out with a die grinder
3. with the driveshaft unbolted, you can now move to the cv shafts, they are held in with 6 12mm bolts per side, using locking hubs, you can lock the shaft, rotate it, undo the bolts, and then rotate it again to get the others, I took a pry bar and locked it into the lug studs to hold the shaft from spinning, you can impact these, I used a 6 inch extension with a wobble
4.) remove the guard that you remove to access the oil filter, 4 10 mm bolts, remove the sway bar, 14mm bolt and nut where it contacts the lower control arms and 4 14mm bolts to the cross member, I discarded this as with my suspension set up and intended use for the truck, it will have minimal impact on the way my truck rides/drives
5.) with that removed, you can focus on the crossmember and differential hard mounts (4 17mm bolts and nuts at the front, 2 17mm bolts and nuts at the rear) before you do that though, if its never been out before, the cross member is also tack welded in, I used a die grinder
6.) with all that removed, you can lower the crossmember, I'm fortunate enough to have access to a forklift to make this part easier, if ya don't a good floor jack and a 2nd pair of hands will be handy, remember, don't remove all the bolts till you get something to catch the differential with.
7. applaud yourself and have a beer, the biggest part of getting to your x's leaking oil pan (hopefully not as bad as mine was) is over
1. Jack the front of the vehicle up and support it on jack stands, remove the front tires
2. Disconnect the front drive shaft from the front differential, the bolts are 14mm, and if they haven't been out before, nissan used red loctite from the factory, heat is your friend here, if they give you a hard time heat the nut with a torch for a bit, despite that, I still had to cut one out with a die grinder
3. with the driveshaft unbolted, you can now move to the cv shafts, they are held in with 6 12mm bolts per side, using locking hubs, you can lock the shaft, rotate it, undo the bolts, and then rotate it again to get the others, I took a pry bar and locked it into the lug studs to hold the shaft from spinning, you can impact these, I used a 6 inch extension with a wobble
4.) remove the guard that you remove to access the oil filter, 4 10 mm bolts, remove the sway bar, 14mm bolt and nut where it contacts the lower control arms and 4 14mm bolts to the cross member, I discarded this as with my suspension set up and intended use for the truck, it will have minimal impact on the way my truck rides/drives
5.) with that removed, you can focus on the crossmember and differential hard mounts (4 17mm bolts and nuts at the front, 2 17mm bolts and nuts at the rear) before you do that though, if its never been out before, the cross member is also tack welded in, I used a die grinder
6.) with all that removed, you can lower the crossmember, I'm fortunate enough to have access to a forklift to make this part easier, if ya don't a good floor jack and a 2nd pair of hands will be handy, remember, don't remove all the bolts till you get something to catch the differential with.
7. applaud yourself and have a beer, the biggest part of getting to your x's leaking oil pan (hopefully not as bad as mine was) is over
- Location
- Prince George, BC, Canada
You're a third of the way to sas at this point also. Just saying
No Sas here hossYou're a third of the way to sas at this point also. Just saying
I am never going to financially recover from this
- Location
- Covington, Va
That's the off-roading hobby in a nut shell....
Did not get hardly anything done, New pan is on and torqued tho I still have to put the brackets for the transcooler lines on, the plates, starter, and diff back, I did torque to spec, fill it, and I replaced some hose clamps on the power steering hoses as it was visibly leaking and the hose seemed fine, the hose clamp style, not so much, adjusted alternator belt
Way bigger pita than it has any right to be but new pan is on and sealed and it’s alive
No more saggy headliner or torn up visors
- Location
- Caldwell, ID
Looks great! I still need to do this to mine.