The Free Xterra Build

relentless044

Bought an X
This will be my build thread for my 02 xterra that as seen in my intro post, was free to me :)
My plan is to not get too radical with it, 31's, a tad of lift (PML) and clean it and maintain it.
Body armor and what not will be my biggest expenses
Just looking to overland and wheel a little and have a decent back up in case my daily driver is down for whatever reason (or because I like driving different vehicles here and there)
121269555_10223289862291151_4716505443960133553_o.jpg

So far, I've tracked down a few parts from a wrecked 00 that I need to pick up, rear leaf spring, rear bumper, hitch, nothing too exciting yet
 

relentless044

Bought an X
No pictures since its all just plain jane parts
Ordered timing kit, tune up stuff, starter, picked up a leaf spring, rear bumper, and factory hitch from a rolled 2000.
Anyone know where I can get the clamps for the springs?
 

Jwelch

Bought an X
Location
Michigan
Welcome to the world of Xterras! On the leaf spring did you just pick up a new secondary leaf because the old one cracked right behind the spring perch? I don't know of a factory replacement of the clamps beyond a new pack, you can get aftermarket clamps like this one from 4wheel parts or at most auto parts stores but the gen 1 xterra leaf springs are 2 3/8" wide rather than 2 1/2" wide and I haven't been able to find any 2 3/8" wide spring clamps. I had my secondarys crack on both sides and when I went to replace them I just bent the spring clamps out to pull them from the pick and pull and bent them back in. Is it a perfect way to do it? No but it does nothing but prevent the springs from splaying out into the tires and to keep them aligned. It can also control how the pack unload's through travel but as I don't think this is going to be a full on rock crawler so you shouldn't have any issues. I run my leaf packs in the same way and have nearly 4k miles like this. Anything works as long as it keeps the springs aligned.

Good luck on the build man can't wait to see where it goes!
 

relentless044

Bought an X
Welcome to the world of Xterras! On the leaf spring did you just pick up a new secondary leaf because the old one cracked right behind the spring perch? I don't know of a factory replacement of the clamps beyond a new pack, you can get aftermarket clamps like this one from 4wheel parts or at most auto parts stores but the gen 1 xterra leaf springs are 2 3/8" wide rather than 2 1/2" wide and I haven't been able to find any 2 3/8" wide spring clamps. I had my secondarys crack on both sides and when I went to replace them I just bent the spring clamps out to pull them from the pick and pull and bent them back in. Is it a perfect way to do it? No but it does nothing but prevent the springs from splaying out into the tires and to keep them aligned. It can also control how the pack unload's through travel but as I don't think this is going to be a full on rock crawler so you shouldn't have any issues. I run my leaf packs in the same way and have nearly 4k miles like this. Anything works as long as it keeps the springs aligned.

Good luck on the build man can't wait to see where it goes!
I couldn't tell you exactly which leaf broke but I don't think it was the secondary (I am 150 miles away from the x which is at my dads) 2 3/8ths i wanna say maybe a trailer supply store.

And no, no rock crawling for this one, :) just a mildly capable rig for over landing and easy to moderate trails, if I wanted to crawl rocks I have much better starting points in any # of my fords
 

relentless044

Bought an X
I have received what I think is all the parts to make it run again and do vital engine maintenance.
I'm thinking since I can't find one on this site, I will create a how to on doing the vital job of timing belt/water pump change. (complete with tasteful beer selection, how much to drink, and where you should stop if you should accidentally over step that beer #)
 

relentless044

Bought an X
Well, replaced the starter (2 beers) and if I jump across the starter it starts, with the key, it doesn't even click. Fuses are good, at least the ones I think are involved. Any common culprits?
 

HolyGhost

Bought an X
Well, replaced the starter (2 beers) and if I jump across the starter it starts, with the key, it doesn't even click. Fuses are good, at least the ones I think are involved. Any common culprits?

Auto or manual?

Grab the FSM from niccoclub. From my 01 FSM should be more or less the same for all 1st gens. Make sure all the fuses for each system are good. Easy way to check is for 12v at the starter during a START condition. That's at the terminal "S" or the solenoid terminal. Circuit gives 12v to close the solenoid giving the starter 12v from the battery.


VG33E M/T MODELS
=NGSC0004S02
Power is supplied at all times
through 40A fusible link (letter e, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
to ignition switch terminal B.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
through ignition switch terminal ST
to clutch interlock relay terminal 5.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
through 10A fuse [No. 11, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to clutch interlock relay terminal 2 and
through 10A fuse [No. 5, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to vehicle security relay terminal 2 (models with power door locks).
If the vehicle security system is not triggered (models with power door locks) and clutch pedal is depressed,
ground is supplied
to clutch interlock relay terminal 1
through vehicle security relay terminals 3, 4 (models with power door locks) and
through clutch interlock switch terminal 1
through clutch interlock switch terminal 2
through body grounds M14 and M68.
The clutch interlock relay is energized and power is supplied
through clutch interlock relay terminal 3
to starter motor windings terminal S.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
If the vehicle security system is triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied to vehicle security
relay terminal 1 through smart entrance control unit terminal 40, disengaging the clutch interlock relay and
preventing starter motor operation.



VG33E A/T MODELS
=NGSC0004S03
Power is supplied at all times
through 40A fusible link (letter e, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
to ignition switch terminal B.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
through ignition switch terminal ST
to park/neutral position (PNP) relay terminal 5.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
through 10A fuse [No. 12, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to PNP switch terminal 1 and
through 10A fuse [No. 5, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to vehicle security relay terminal 2 (models with power door locks).
With the selector lever in the P or N position, power is supplied
through PNP switch terminal 2
to PNP relay terminal 2.
If the vehicle security system is not triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied
to PNP relay terminal 1
through body grounds E12 and E54 (models without power door locks) or
through vehicle security relay terminals 3, 4 (models with power door locks) and
through body grounds M14 and M68.
The PNP relay is energized and power is supplied
through PNP relay terminal 3
to starter motor windings terminal S.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
If the vehicle security system is triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied to vehicle security
relay terminal 1 through smart entrance control unit terminal 40, disengaging the PNP relay and preventing
starter motor operation.
 

relentless044

Bought an X
Auto or manual?

Grab the FSM from niccoclub. From my 01 FSM should be more or less the same for all 1st gens. Make sure all the fuses for each system are good. Easy way to check is for 12v at the starter during a START condition. That's at the terminal "S" or the solenoid terminal. Circuit gives 12v to close the solenoid giving the starter 12v from the battery.


VG33E M/T MODELS
=NGSC0004S02
Power is supplied at all times
through 40A fusible link (letter e, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
to ignition switch terminal B.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
through ignition switch terminal ST
to clutch interlock relay terminal 5.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
through 10A fuse [No. 11, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to clutch interlock relay terminal 2 and
through 10A fuse [No. 5, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to vehicle security relay terminal 2 (models with power door locks).
If the vehicle security system is not triggered (models with power door locks) and clutch pedal is depressed,
ground is supplied
to clutch interlock relay terminal 1
through vehicle security relay terminals 3, 4 (models with power door locks) and
through clutch interlock switch terminal 1
through clutch interlock switch terminal 2
through body grounds M14 and M68.
The clutch interlock relay is energized and power is supplied
through clutch interlock relay terminal 3
to starter motor windings terminal S.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
If the vehicle security system is triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied to vehicle security
relay terminal 1 through smart entrance control unit terminal 40, disengaging the clutch interlock relay and
preventing starter motor operation.



VG33E A/T MODELS
=NGSC0004S03
Power is supplied at all times
through 40A fusible link (letter e, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
to ignition switch terminal B.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
through ignition switch terminal ST
to park/neutral position (PNP) relay terminal 5.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
through 10A fuse [No. 12, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to PNP switch terminal 1 and
through 10A fuse [No. 5, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
to vehicle security relay terminal 2 (models with power door locks).
With the selector lever in the P or N position, power is supplied
through PNP switch terminal 2
to PNP relay terminal 2.
If the vehicle security system is not triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied
to PNP relay terminal 1
through body grounds E12 and E54 (models without power door locks) or
through vehicle security relay terminals 3, 4 (models with power door locks) and
through body grounds M14 and M68.
The PNP relay is energized and power is supplied
through PNP relay terminal 3
to starter motor windings terminal S.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
If the vehicle security system is triggered (models with power door locks), ground is supplied to vehicle security
relay terminal 1 through smart entrance control unit terminal 40, disengaging the PNP relay and preventing
starter motor operation.
I totally just got around to checking all of my internet life.
the correct fuse is listed in your troubleshooting guide here, I haven't cleared the codes for the tcm yet, but when I hoped in it and drove it around it seemed like it had more oomph than before (like it was using 1st gear and wasn't before)
I will say, nissan's naming for electrical circuits is kinda weird
 
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relentless044

Bought an X
I haven’t done anything since I got it to run, been busy trying to get a cdl in the covid world. I did put the first tank of fuel in it, soon I hope to have a clear shop
 

relentless044

Bought an X
So I know this isn't the most entertaining thread in the world at the moment....

I'm limited by time, at this stage in my life I'm trying to get my cdl because I work for a company that if I had one, I would be up near 6 digits a year income, and well, thats a lot of shiatbox nissan/ford parts.

In addition to that, the x, and my bronco, and my hi boy, are at my dads, which I go to every other weekend (my only days off) but trips there are to practice on truck driver me, and well, seeing as how the old man's place was the family business, I always wind up doing other things :(

I got a quote from a shop to do the timing belt of $500, I just don't feel like paying $500
 

relentless044

Bought an X
I did valve cover and a general tune up this weekend, a few pictures explain how I felt about 2 hoses at the very back, that little vg has some pep to her, got on it while in a light left hand turn and she broke the rear loose :eek: granted the tires are bald as shiat but I was not expecting that, must have been the red valve cover paint, according to the previous owner, this timing belt still has 35-40k of life left soooo, run it
156879078_256131326190845_4409946876070240354_n.jpg

159115330_477002523330639_5992223257261343607_n.jpg

156646800_459575591900521_2264161572746058011_n.jpg

158004031_202127405002759_7528298133847435347_n.jpg

one of the plenum bolts that rounded off
158845415_191021092398657_6900182911593142985_n.jpg
 

relentless044

Bought an X
They are 265/70R16, I am gonna run em, and for what I'll be doing in CO they're probably good enough, the question is how ridiculous is gonna look with a pml lol, is it even worth doing at that point or wait till I go bigger
 

relentless044

Bought an X
and I ordered the pml, and warn hubs, and a nisstec sticker pack (most important piece)
Went with nisstec over 4x4parts as nisstec was like $50 cheaper to ship, albiet no idler arm brace (how crucial is that anyway? I've heard people bitch about calmini but their brace seems a bit better than automotive customizers, and I used them once, for a set of shackles for my isuzu and had no bitches..... but that was years ago
also ordered from rock auto the stuff to rebuild the brakes

I'll have a few things interior to do and odds and ends but it will be driveable (safe lol)
I'd like to get a winch bumper and rear and the cool ppi rear cladding pieces but I'm not sure thats all gonna happen by the august overland trip :)

Bye stimulus money
 

BEEFY

I Smile when Gasoline Can Freeze
scored some tires and wheels from a 1st gen tundra, hopefully they fit correct (they have a 5" backspace vs the 5.5" of the stockers) and they have some 265/75R16 coopers on them, came with lug nuts, hopefully it all works, if not, I just scored some tiresView attachment 17000
also
View attachment 17001
The rims and tire will fit but the Toyota lug nuts are a different thread pitch
 

relentless044

Bought an X
some goodies came in :)
1616382257295.png
determined by the spin test that the rear end is open, then became a sad boi when I found out that its basically arb or nothing, aussie even had a locker for my isuzu amigo, but not an x? Come onnnnn
 

Jwelch

Bought an X
Location
Michigan
thats ufcking it, its getting a 302 and tons
Someone wants to party:cool:, while not the most streetable option you could always do the old Lincoln lock rather than dumping 1200+ into an air locker and compressor system and put a lunch box locker in the front. My rear is getting welded in the next few weeks.
 

relentless044

Bought an X
Someone wants to party:cool:, while not the most streetable option you could always do the old Lincoln lock rather than dumping 1200+ into an air locker and compressor system and put a lunch box locker in the front. My rear is getting welded in the next few weeks.
I do and I don't, rolling my ass off potato salad? not so much, but having a mildly built truck that I can still drive on the street? yesssss

It does kinda chap my ass that I was able to do a aussie for a ufckin 89 isuzu amigo but I can't for an xterra? you realize how many more x's there are than 89 amigos?
 

Jwelch

Bought an X
Location
Michigan
You can do a swap to the 31 spline axle shafts and brake parts and use a mechanical locker for cheaper than an arb if you can find all the parts from a junkyard.

 

relentless044

Bought an X
although I am a poor, I keep thinking about the benefits of on board air for an overland truck (aka wheeling it'd probably do stock just for really long periods of time)
The poors are into off roading now....
 

relentless044

Bought an X
I will have to check with the ginger to see if she is ok with spending the money for a home on the nissan, I will attempt the good ol what good is a house, you can't drive it, be right back
 

relentless044

Bought an X
anyway, also realized my plan isn't going to work, or so I think, you see, I bought the nisstec shackles to pml it, nisstec shackles are 2" lift, pml will give 1.5" so I'd need additional pieces such as uca, or hd torsion bars, to get the front to 2" of course I guess I could always stink bug it, but the real hard truth that overland people (me) need to swallow is its all mostly easy, you learn how to drive (I'd like to think that considering I'm 30 and been wheeling since high school all over the southwest) i'm a decent wheel hand, so I may just fix it and clean it up for overland co august 2021
 

relentless044

Bought an X
So after consulting the manager this is what we came up with:
As cool as the xterra is, there is also a bronco at home that has more off road potential than the x does, said bronco also has sentimental value to both of us, so if I'm going to build one and invest tons of money in strictly off road mods, it should be the bronco. This is not to say the xterra will never be heavily modded, but in the interm, since I have to refigure lift and lockers, I should just keep going on repairing a life time of neglect and overland co with it in august in basically stock form (its an overland trip, not who can climb super gnarly rutted rock hill)

Translation: There is not currently money for you to build 2 vehicles and me to buy my high end make up, you must choose which one you are going to heavily modify because we are going to buy a house. If you really think you can sleep in a car you're welcome to, by yourself. But as things improve progress you're welcome to build toys as you like
 

relentless044

Bought an X
So, went to work on the x, but got put to work on my dads jeep (cj7) that started overheating and cutting out last summer while I was wheeling it over black bear pass, pulled the head, and well., shiat
1617570689628.png
Found out more about how I'm xterra stupid, as according to the interwebs nissans auto hub design is actually quite good and my warn hubs were basically a waste, but ah well,
 

relentless044

Bought an X
Oh whale, when I do the front wheel bearings I'll go ahead and put them on anyway, I've been reading of weak ass steering on these, and found hd tie rods, and the obvious already mentioned idler brace, how critical is the grassroots center link? be ok with the moderate wheeling I intend to do without it?
 

Prime

Some Kind of In Charge?
Admin
Location
Denver-ish
The grassroots is cool. Again. I was on 33s and not easy on things. Idler arm brace, HD TREs, and I never had an issue.
 

relentless044

Bought an X
The grassroots is cool. Again. I was on 33s and not easy on things. Idler arm brace, HD TREs, and I never had an issue.
well, I'm sorry but I genuinely didn't know what you had done to your truck, but this is the perfect info I needed, thank you
 
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