The Dumb Question Thread

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Ok folks. I got a good one. Is there ANYONE here that has Titan swapped and is like “AW HELL NO!!!” and now wants to sell off their nearly new TS RadFlo 2.5’s with 650# springs for a discount? I’m not even gonna bother putting this in the want ads That would be equally dumb. But hey..... ya never know.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Ok folks. I got a good one. Is there ANYONE here that has Titan swapped and is like “AW HELL NO!!!” and now wants to sell off their nearly new TS RadFlo 2.5’s with 650# springs for a discount? I’m not even gonna bother putting this in the want ads That would be equally dumb. But hey..... ya never know.
Not. Bloody. Likely.

Now, @Fromfrontier2Xterra sold me his unused stuff because he decided not to bother swapping.
 

jsexton

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Lewis Center, OH
What CNC millable/lathe-able material would be strong enough for the glamisdude style t-swap top hats?

follow up - anyone on here have the right program and skills to create the file?
That’s a tricky question without modeling it. 6061 would be fine but you are going to have to get awful thin to fit through the hole in the coil bucket and still fit a bushing inside. If you do this, stick with a mild steel.

that said, it’s pretty easy to get steel disks made and use a piece of 2” x 0.120 wall dom for the riser, then weld them. I’m sure it’s quite a bit cheaper this way too

I’ve made a handful of sets now.

F5736886-E9D2-4537-84AD-52D1F62E524E.jpeg2DA11ACD-BD2A-4B44-91A9-95002899F58E.jpeg
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Ok folks. I got a good one. Is there ANYONE here that has Titan swapped and is like “AW HELL NO!!!” and now wants to sell off their nearly new TS RadFlo 2.5’s with 650# springs for a discount? I’m not even gonna bother putting this in the want ads That would be equally dumb. But hey..... ya never know.

there’s a guy on tnx maybe selling his for $1100.

…I only go there for the classifieds, I swear!
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
there’s a guy on tnx maybe selling his for $1100.

…I only go there for the classifieds, I swear!
He’s MAYBE selling them. I already responded and waiting for him to update me. But they’re 600# and I’ve got a HeftyFab bumper and 10k winch. I’m hearing that’s probably too soft.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
He’s MAYBE selling them. I already responded and waiting for him to update me. But they’re 600# and I’ve got a HeftyFab bumper and 10k winch. I’m hearing that’s probably too soft.
I think that could be a little light. I'm running 650# coils on OE width and I think they're about right. And I've generally heard of you TS that going up 50# is a good idea because of the extra leverage from the added width.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
That’s a tricky question without modeling it. 6061 would be fine but you are going to have to get awful thin to fit through the hole in the coil bucket and still fit a bushing inside. If you do this, stick with a mild steel.

that said, it’s pretty easy to get steel disks made and use a piece of 2” x 0.120 wall dom for the riser, then weld them. I’m sure it’s quite a bit cheaper this way too

I’ve made a handful of sets now.

View attachment 19652View attachment 19653

My thought process was since I don’t have access to a welder (or probably enough experience with on either), a solid piece lathed/milled version would prevent me from having to put my faith in the welds of whoever I could find around here to make it for me. With that setup (in your picture) does the isolator slip right on?
 

jsexton

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Lewis Center, OH
My thought process was since I don’t have access to a welder (or probably enough experience with on either), a solid piece lathed/milled version would prevent me from having to put my faith in the welds of whoever I could find around here to make it for me. With that setup (in your picture) does the isolator slip right on?

no you use the style that comes with the shocks and trim to put one between the coil spring and the top hat if you want. I started skipping the one on the spring. Honestly they don’t see a crazy amount of forces, just holding the shaft of the shock so you are old getting forces from the damping. The coil bucket still holds everything up.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Is there a go-to easy fix for a cat shield rattle? I haven’t crawled under and dropped the skids yet, but poking my driver side one from the top I can tell that’s where the rattle is coming from. I’m guessing not as easy as throwing a band around it.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Is there a go-to easy fix for a cat shield rattle? I haven’t crawled under and dropped the skids yet, but poking my driver side one from the top I can tell that’s where the rattle is coming from. I’m guessing not as easy as throwing a band around it.
Exhaust tape. I bought some for mine.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
How little pre-load is too little? Like if you would barely have to compress the springs to get the strut mount would it be a big problem?
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
What do you do when the zerk point doesn't let you pump anything in? Is this a "locking" one or is there something different I need to do? I pumped some grease into my UCAs no problem, then I went to add some a the point on the Maxterra bumper, and not only would not a drop go in, but I had a hell of a time getting the gun nozzle back off. Outward appearance is exactly the same as far as I can tell.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Place a flat blade screw driver against the ball and tap it with a hammer to pop the ball loose from its seat.
As it turns out, I think it’s that it’s extremely tight and extremely small. I poked the ball and a little of my grease came out. I tried to put more in and couldn’t, but then noticed red coming out the bottom too. So it seemed like nothing was going in but it actually was. Overall maybe a pump and a half completely flushed the old grease out.
 

CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
This is a Odd Question? fitting for the Dumb Question Thread.. haha Cut and pasted section of the Photo library screen shot

My Ipad, photo section. The library for all my photos.. Just noticed this.. WTF?. I Be no Time traveler!!

June 27, 3838771 BC-May 19 2021.. That Thar is a Wide spread of years!!..

Found the dates rather odd.. Dam Apple Gone sour!!. But I Did wish for 7 Brand New factory fresh 2007-2009 Xterras.. Nadda yet!!. figures..

odd dates.png
 

CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Dude. How are you not a bagillionaire!?!? you had a camera in 3838771BC?!?! Those early primates would have made you a deity!

/also you're really old
I stole the Banana off the Rock From them Chimps . and they went APE... I hit Fast return button.. Back to safe 2021!!!.. But forgot the piles of Gold. Stuck back in the Poor minions clan.

One messed up Software Glitch in apples Ipad..
 
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ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I have an exhaust leak. At the passenger cat flange and from that pipe into the muffler. This past weekend was the first time submerging the whole thing in water on the trail (no choice) and I’m guessing the rapid contraction did it.

Is this a simple matter of tightening things up, or is it better practice to go ahead and get a new gasket for the front? Tightening the clamp is really the only option for pipe to muffler. I could do exhaust tape I suppose.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I have an exhaust leak. At the passenger cat flange and from that pipe into the muffler. This past weekend was the first time submerging the whole thing in water on the trail (no choice) and I’m guessing the rapid contraction did it.

Is this a simple matter of tightening things up, or is it better practice to go ahead and get a new gasket for the front? Tightening the clamp is really the only option for pipe to muffler. I could do exhaust tape I suppose.
What type of clamps does it have?

And are the flange leaks on OE gaskets or something that came with the system?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
The gaskets are aftermarket. I actually don’t know what brand - @xterraography bought a pack and had them left over. The clamps are this type:
View attachment 19825
You can order better clamps. I think Summit sells some nice ones. Similar design but two bolts and a "full circle" style band.

As for the gaskets, I've had no luck with aftermarket gaskets in my exhaust system.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
You can order better clamps. I think Summit sells some nice ones. Similar design but two bolts and a "full circle" style band.
As for the gaskets, I've had no luck with aftermarket gaskets in my exhaust system.
I’ll see if the dealer has OE gaskets
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
The gaskets are aftermarket. I actually don’t know what brand - @xterraography bought a pack and had them left over. The clamps are this type:
View attachment 19825
If it’s the gasket for the connection here (secondary cat to muffler) I had good results with a Remflex gasket. I forget what is made out of but it compresses like 40% to seal any gaps. I think it was listed as being for mopar, but was universal.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Which rear wiper blade is best for a 2nd gen? I went to change one of ours out the other day and only then realized it’s an odd mounting setup.

Sounds like a Trico 14B or older Murano rear blade are sometimes recommended.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Which rear wiper blade is best for a 2nd gen? I went to change one of ours out the other day and only then realized it’s an odd mounting setup.

Sounds like a Trico 14B or older Murano rear blade are sometimes recommended.
I just did a 14B in Duralast (AutoZone) about a week ago.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
You can order better clamps. I think Summit sells some nice ones. Similar design but two bolts and a "full circle" style band.

I’ll see if the dealer has OE gaskets
They had two and I got them. But since the stud on the one side is stuck in the cat I’m unable to wiggle the pipe deeper into the muffler, which means I basically have to take the exhaust all out. This truck is a pain in the ass sometimes.
 

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
Which rear wiper blade is best for a 2nd gen? I went to change one of ours out the other day and only then realized it’s an odd mounting setup.

Sounds like a Trico 14B or older Murano rear blade are sometimes recommended.
I run one from a Honda Odyssey (I think 2009?), it is longer and clears more of the window, uses the same mount. I had to upgrade the spring to keep it tighter on the window, though, the stock one doesn't have enough tension.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
I just did a 14B in Duralast (AutoZone) about a week ago.

Thanks. I stopped at Autozone on the way to work this morning and that one was out of stock. I'll try another store this weekend.

I run one from a Honda Odyssey (I think 2009?), it is longer and clears more of the window, uses the same mount. I had to upgrade the spring to keep it tighter on the window, though, the stock one doesn't have enough tension.

Thank you. I had read on TNX about some people using a 16", and it looks like that's the size for that vintage of Odyssey. I was thinking 14" would be a little improvement without having to upgrade the spring and without adding much strain to the motor and assembly, but maybe I'll look into the 16".
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Thanks. I stopped at Autozone on the way to work this morning and that one was out of stock. I'll try another store this weekend.



Thank you. I had read on TNX about some people using a 16", and it looks like that's the size for that vintage of Odyssey. I was thinking 14" would be a little improvement without having to upgrade the spring and without adding much strain to the motor and assembly, but maybe I'll look into the 16".
Just fill the back off the X with all your stuff like mine, and then you'll never see out the back anyway.:p
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
The overload had this one really long bracket. The two smaller brackets contain all but what’s now the bottom leaf. Do I need to add another bracket that contains the full pack?

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