The Dumb Question Thread

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Is there a more secure method to install fog lights in the factory bumper? There’s the metal grip that fits over plastic tab on the outer side, and the single screw on the inner side. Well I guess because mine have gone in and out so many times, the plastic tab doesn’t really have anything for the teeth to grab on to.

Anybody have a recommended fix? Stronger plastic added on to the original to extend/widen it? Some sort of adapter for screws/bolts to hold it?

Mine got knocked loose by a water crossing yesterday.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
We won't be taking photos of wiring today as to not give any moderators heart attacks.
Got it cleaned up, a little.. was getting a drain after a cpl days once installing the KC lights, relay and switch. I've disconnected the power and grounds to the new KCs and no more drain so now to work my way down the line and see..20210826_093132.jpg
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
I'm still puking at that positive terminal. The relay mounted to the holddown... I'm assuming it's just a physical connection, no electrical expected through the tab? I ask because while it may ohm out as a ground, it's not one I would use as such.
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
The relay mounted to the holddown... I'm assuming it's just a physical connection, no electrical expected through the tab? I ask because while it may ohm out as a ground, it's not one I would use as such.
It is not a ground. If it was.... well one of my circuits wouldn't work as I have the relay attached to a plastic box. :D
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Is there a more secure method to install fog lights in the factory bumper? There’s the metal grip that fits over plastic tab on the outer side, and the single screw on the inner side. Well I guess because mine have gone in and out so many times, the plastic tab doesn’t really have anything for the teeth to grab on to.

Anybody have a recommended fix? Stronger plastic added on to the original to extend/widen it? Some sort of adapter for screws/bolts to hold it?

Mine got knocked loose by a water crossing yesterday.

Not exactly what you asked, but maybe this will give you some ideas. A couple years ago my elderly neighbor backed into our '06 and broke the fog light mounting tab. I cut a small piece of pipe hanging strap (that's what I call it, may be known as plumber's tape or by other names) and epoxied it into place to fix the mount.

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Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
I'm still puking at that positive terminal. The relay mounted to the holddown... I'm assuming it's just a physical connection, no electrical expected through the tab? I ask because while it may ohm out as a ground, it's not one I would use as such.

I've been dying to find something to use as an alternative to the positive mess I've got going there but just haven't ever gotten to it. Then, we'll I,.. there's no excuse. I hate wiring. I don't even know what that big thingamajigger is on the positive cable and whether I need it or not.

Where do I put the relay? I was just in a hurry and losing light and never got back it b4 disconnecting.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I've been dying to find something to use as an alternative to the positive mess I've got going there but just haven't ever gotten to it. Then, we'll I,.. there's no excuse. I hate wiring. I don't even know what that big thingamajigger is on the positive cable and whether I need it or not.

Where do I put the relay? I was just in a hurry and losing light and never got back it b4 disconnecting.
I’m not in a position to say much since my wiring is a mess right now, but you can put the relay on the bolt holding the foot of the fuse box down. There’s also another bolt in that same are between there and the power steering fluid reservoir.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Is it normal for a brand new ignition coil to have this gunk here? Like do they sometimes ship with dielectric grease or is it some kind of corrosion?

5994E71F-1FEA-4E02-828F-FE15F76F561C.jpeg
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Before I drop the dough and just so I have a little piece of mind. Will I need to re-gear or upgrade my breaks when I go to 33's, 285/75 R16?
What are you geared now and what do you do with your X?

I ran Cooper 285s on my stock 3.13 gears for a good while. I didn't tow heavy loads but I did a good bit of crawling. Upgrading to 3.69 P4X diffs was a huge help.
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Stock 2012 Pro-4X. Moderate Moab-style 4WD (think Fins, Sevenmile, Cameo Cliffs) and mountains now that I'm in CO. I haven't fully left Moab yet, still have to go back and get my 14' raft that I'll be trailering back to Fort Collins at some point this fall.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Stock 2012 Pro-4X. Moderate Moab-style 4WD (think Fins, Sevenmile, Cameo Cliffs) and mountains now that I'm in CO. I haven't fully left Moab yet, still have to go back and get my 14' raft that I'll be trailering back to Fort Collins at some point this fall.
I wheeled 35s w/ 3.69s at Moab. Twice now. and several trails on this side of the divide. You'll be fine.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Got specs?

Sorry for link to the site that shall not be named....

 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
What CNC millable/lathe-able material would be strong enough for the glamisdude style t-swap top hats?

follow up - anyone on here have the right program and skills to create the file?
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
@Prime When you took out the front sway bar bolt to disable the sway bar, which one did you romper? I’m thinking the one circles in blue, but maybe it doesn’t matter, or both of them and remove the whole link. I think I’m over thinking it.
B069B69A-0655-416D-ABB3-4DCD02680DC3.jpeg
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
@Prime When you took out the front sway bar bolt to disable the sway bar, which one did you romper? I’m thinking the one circles in blue, but maybe it doesn’t matter, or both of them and remove the whole link. I think I’m over thinking it.
View attachment 19609
I removed the entire link. Left it that way for like 4 years. It's now gone for good.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Are #600 TS 2.5 Rads “too soft” for a HeftyFab aluminum bumper/10k lb winch combo (120 lbs) Or is #650 the more common “best fit” opinions? Also no sway bar
 
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SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
I would think the 600# would be fine with the aluminum bumper. I'm running the 650# with the Shrock and Warn Zeon 10k winch.
Updated my question to note it’ll be for TS and no sway bar. Still sounds like a good fit? I’ve got same Rads (non TS) on now and almost no body roll or nose diving.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Updated my question to note it’ll be for TS and no sway bar. Still sounds like a good fit? I’ve got same Rads (non TS) on now and almost no body roll or nose diving.
Might go up to 650# if you're TS'd. The added length of the control arms changes the leverage on the springs and from what I've read, going up 50# on your rate when you TS is a good rule of thumb.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
What size lift would these Nisstec spacers be at 1.25", anyone know offhand? I got them with some shocks and never used them.
Thx in advance20210920_222608.jpg
 
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