The Dumb Question Thread

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
Ok maybe the grand daddy of stupid questions- The fold flat front seat switch- I have pulled hard on it and it does nothing, seems to be stuck. Does the seat have to be in some secret position? It just seems like it does not engage anything or is stuck in place.
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
Ok maybe the grand daddy of stupid questions- The fold flat front seat switch- I have pulled hard on it and it does nothing, seems to be stuck. Does the seat have to be in some secret position? It just seems like it does not engage anything or is stuck in place.
Uh.... Did you say the magic words? They're in the OM. ;)
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
No personal experience with the fold flat (unfortunately), however I recall seeing a gal on one of the FB groups who had to take apart the seat to fix some connection or something like that.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
On my fold flat you have to lift the handle on the seat back to tilt the back forward, then lift the handle on the seat bottom to fold it flat, making it a two step process.
 

CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Its tricky. I think you have to slide Seat ahead some.. OR its Vertical Position Before the Handle will lift and release to lay the seat down.

Really handy to have that seat go flat, For either sleeping, stuffing fishing poles, kayak, Eh High Price 2x4's With No armed Escort .
 

RxnNic66

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
TX
Not sure this is a DUMB question, but I can't find what I'm looking for. What are the torque specs for the transmission pan bolts, and the control valve body bolts? I'm replacing solenoids, and I found the specs for thise but not anything else involved.
 

XterraRising

Bumpers Installed
Location
Utah
Not sure this is a DUMB question, but I can't find what I'm looking for. What are the torque specs for the transmission pan bolts, and the control valve body bolts? I'm replacing solenoids, and I found the specs for thise but not anything else involved.

Without knowing the year or transmission you have, it’s hard to say. But this page is a good reference to find the answer to your question.

 

Lazerrred

Bought an X
OK, I had a 20% coupon from HF, “Fathers Day”, so that made the Apex Badlands 12k winch @ $479.00. So, the dumb? Is how to fab it as “stealth”.
Edit: This freakin Apex Ain’t nothing stealth about it.
I like the X front end, I don’t want to murder it to bad. ‍
Edit, btw this is HolyGoast’s fault. He inspired me !! With all the shait he did to YellowX in what seemed days.
 

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Lazerrred

Bought an X
@ TerryD, yep, I know thanks, WARNING, LONG READ, as been there & done that. :)
Yes they do have a very nice looking one. I actually had ordered a bumper from them & it was like 16 to 18 weeks out....& OK, fine. THEN, as it was a couple weeks after the order, I asked if I could add a light bar as shown in the options for that “particular” bumper. OMG, wrong thing to do. Cluster F warning. Huge up selling production carried on for two days. I finally said said screw it, I’d like to do a change order to the mount & it’s already paid for by my deposit. WAM said, but,but,but, I’ll have to check, and BTW, YOU KNOW ALL SALES ARE FINAL WITH NO REFUNDS. I said WTF, you need to read your web page disclosures on same. Duh-Huh. I asked to speak to the owner and had my deposit back the next day. He was great, but I had already lost any confidence & trust I had with WAM by that time. F Dramatic BS.
The day after that, WAM emailed me and let me know they could have one built for me in 30 days and delivered to my house @ almost free shipping. Probably should have, but didn’t.
Even at that, not sure the Apex would’ve just “fit” it without some fabrication & @ $450.00, I can do a lot fab work. Already have facia off & mocked up. But, Dayam, it’s almost to hot & humid already, but @ that $450.00, I could do AC in my garage/shop.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
REAR HATCH LOCKED SHUT

My hatch won't open with the handle nor will the key turn inside the lock mechanism. I can hear it functioning inside the door with the key fob and I can feel the handle slip off when lifting so I did the "open from interior" mod.
20210613_195919.jpg
..but when I stuck my finger through and worked the latch from the inside.. viola! NOTHING!

I tried squirting PB blaster in the key hole and working the key back and forth a couple days.. what do y'all think?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Kinda sounds like the rod is off the actual latch mechanism down at the bottom of the gate. You will probably have to cut a larger hole down near that latch or try to pull the whole trim piece from the inside (not sure if that's possible?)
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Kinda sounds like the rod is off the actual latch mechanism down at the bottom of the gate. You will probably have to cut a larger hole down near that latch or try to pull the whole trim piece from the inside (not sure if that's possible?)
I would say this. I just happened to grab a pic the other day. The handle just pulls a cable with a ball at the end. If that popped out, it’s not actually pulling anything. Arrow is where the cable attaches. The little hole cut is where you stick your finger through to push the hatch from the inside.
23D74F67-5C68-4FAF-B7F6-6EF245352075.jpeg

I’m not sure you can get off the trim without opening, but may be worth the shot. If you drill a bigger hole for your mod, you can still cover it with an outlet cover and you may be able to get long needle nose in to grab the cable.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Kinda sounds like the rod is off the actual latch mechanism down at the bottom of the gate. You will probably have to cut a larger hole down near that latch or try to pull the whole trim piece from the inside (not sure if that's possible?)

I would say this. I just happened to grab a pic the other day. The handle just pulls a cable with a ball at the end. If that popped out, it’s not actually pulling anything. Arrow is where the cable attaches. The little hole cut is where you stick your finger through to push the hatch from the inside.
View attachment 18255

I’m not sure you can get off the trim without opening, but may be worth the shot. If you drill a bigger hole for your mod, you can still cover it with an outlet cover and you may be able to get long needle nose in to grab the cable.
Ok, I need to get the stuff I've got in there out and see if I can get the panel off although there won't be any room to work in there..

I can feel a/the cable in the hole I cut when I put my finger in, in fact, I goobered it up a little, no biggie. I'm wondering if I could grab it and work it with some needle nose and get it to open. I also wonder if it's the locking mech, motor or just a disconnected handle. I'm guessing the 14yrs of dust has the lock frozen..
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Well ufck. I see the attachment. I feel the attachment at the other end behind the panel. They're connected. Won't open. Lock works.20210616_174547.jpg
Panel comes off with hatch shut with several expletives.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Well ufck. I see the attachment. I feel the attachment at the other end behind the panel. They're connected. Won't open. Lock works.View attachment 18269
Panel comes off with hatch shut with several expletives.
What is that mat made of? Is it sound dampening? You should be able to get at the latch right behind it. (You said you could feel it - I should read the whole thing before replying.) I must have the only X with absolutely nothing between the plastic and a single sheet of metal.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Also, maybe it’s something as simple as a washer that fell where the latch connects and it’s just jammed? Trying to be positive for an easy fix I suppose.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Anyone know why an earlier year 2nd Gen rear bumper differs from a newer one? The one from my 2006 (bottom one in photo) has a bit more steel in it and feels heavier than the 2010 example (top of photo). Maybe a running production change to cut costs?

oHCPwXYEQyvqrRBX5aYaCJVKxFQWhQ3ALM7RBwLuHcB25MoCl9K7RM4VhBZxaHX3kcJS4-a237NoNrgdJXfg770szuT1XTpd-3FMecQwq8aQk4tZ8skeEl4RgtXTG4haXzFcd9Qjm8A=w2400
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
That, or a change to accommodate different crash test requirements.

I wondered about that as well. The newer one is probably more crumply... I think that's the technical term!

I have had a hard time finding torque specs for the bumper mounting bolts. I've seen receiver install instructions that call for 86 ft. lbs. for the smaller bolt and 136 ft. lbs. for the larger ones. My torque wrench only goes to 100 ft. lbs so for anything more than that I torque things to "good and tight".
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
I wondered about that as well. The newer one is probably more crumply... I think that's the technical term!

I have had a hard time finding torque specs for the bumper mounting bolts. I've seen receiver install instructions that call for 86 ft. lbs. for the smaller bolt and 136 ft. lbs. for the larger ones. My torque wrench only goes to 100 ft. lbs so for anything more than that I torque things to "good and tight".
Four "dakkas"
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Four "dakkas"

What is the conversion from dakkas to ugga duggas? I always forget that one.

Anyway, I was really glad to have my impact wrench when I removed the hitch and bumper for repainting. Those bolts were in there pretty good. Yay for antiseize and the previous owner using it.
 
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