The Dumb Question Thread

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
Another option is to have a local welder fab you some. Mine were built basically like the white knuckles, but cost me about 1/2 as much (mostly due to shipping and the USD->CAD garbage exchange rate).
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
I'm looking at these White Knuckle sliders. They seem to have two styles:

Rear diamond top plate
Full diamond top plate

Is the difference just cosmetic? I'm guessing yes but it doesn't hurt to ask. The both say "bolt on" but I'm not sure if that means... "bolt on" at a minimum but "weld on" is preferred or is that's not the case? Is weld on a superior attachment method or maybe bolt on is best... or maybe it's just a preference. Thoughts?

Thank you!
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I'm looking at these White Knuckle sliders. They seem to have two styles:

Rear diamond top plate
Full diamond top plate

Is the difference just cosmetic? I'm guessing yes but it doesn't hurt to ask. The both say "bolt on" but I'm not sure if that means... "bolt on" at a minimum but "weld on" is preferred or is that's not the case? Is weld on a superior attachment method or maybe bolt on is best... or maybe it's just a preference. Thoughts?

Thank you!
It is an anesthetic thing. Kinda. I have the diamond plate at the rear only. It like it.

As far as bolt/weld on.... White Knuckle are bolt on. But. There are a bunch of bolts that you have to drill into the frame to help support it. You can weld it also, but mine are bolted in and have taken a ton of abuse with no issues.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
It is an anesthetic thing. Kinda. I have the diamond plate at the rear only. It like it.

As far as bolt/weld on.... White Knuckle are bolt on. But. There are a bunch of bolts that you have to drill into the frame to help support it. You can weld it also, but mine are bolted in and have taken a ton of abuse with no issues.
Thank you very much sir. Drilling holes into the frame is way beyond my experience level... but I'll probably do it anyway. :) Thanks again!
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Thank you very much sir. Drilling holes into the frame is way beyond my experience level... but I'll probably do it anyway. :) Thanks again!
If you've drilled a hole you're ok.

I don't have any of the plate. Just got it powder coated and added the grip tape from Home Depot. I also got the 10* tube option so they make a better step.

20171201_124017.jpg
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
If you've drilled a hole you're ok.

I don't have any of the plate. Just got it powder coated and added the grip tape from Home Depot. I also got the 10* tube option so they make a better step.

View attachment 17544

Holy shiat man... there are so many scratches on your ride it almost looks like a deliberate design pattern! Thank you for the info sir. Yours look good. Makes a step and still nice and clean.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Holy shiat man... there are so many scratches on your ride it almost looks like a deliberate design pattern! Thank you for the info sir. Yours look good. Makes a step and still nice and clean.
Mine is a beater. That's from running the side trail on Big Levels from the field out the mountain. It got so tight the bumper was basically plowing the mountain laurel.

But I bought it to beat. My buddies just ordered a bandaid sticker to go on that dent on the front fender. It apparently bothers them more than it ever has me.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
More of a rant than a dumb question, but why did Moog design their sway bar end links to require two 18mm wrenches to tighten them? The OEM ones were 17mm and 19mm IIRC. I don't think there's a single 18mm fastener on an Xterra, at least that I have found.

We were out driving the other day and noticed a clunk in the front end when going over rocks. Narrowed it down to a loose nut on an end link. I get out the tool kit and I have a 17mm and 19mm but of course no 18mm wrench or socket. I had to use a vise grip and channel lock to tighten it but I roughed up the boot in the process and slightly rounded the nut.

Most average metric sets go from 17 to 19 and don't even have an 18mm wrench. Why didn't Moog just use 17 and 19 like the OEM one?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
More of a rant than a dumb question, but why did Moog design their sway bar end links to require two 18mm wrenches to tighten them? The OEM ones were 17mm and 19mm IIRC. I don't think there's a single 18mm fastener on an Xterra, at least that I have found.

We were out driving the other day and noticed a clunk in the front end when going over rocks. Narrowed it down to a loose nut on an end link. I get out the tool kit and I have a 17mm and 19mm but of course no 18mm wrench or socket. I had to use a vise grip and channel lock to tighten it but I roughed up the boot in the process and slightly rounded the nut.

Most average metric sets go from 17 to 19 and don't even have an 18mm wrench. Why didn't Moog just use 17 and 19 like the OEM one?
I haven't had a front sway bar since I installed Rads so I dunno. You could try to get some used ones from someone ditching their bar?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
More of a rant than a dumb question, but why did Moog design their sway bar end links to require two 18mm wrenches to tighten them? The OEM ones were 17mm and 19mm IIRC. I don't think there's a single 18mm fastener on an Xterra, at least that I have found.

We were out driving the other day and noticed a clunk in the front end when going over rocks. Narrowed it down to a loose nut on an end link. I get out the tool kit and I have a 17mm and 19mm but of course no 18mm wrench or socket. I had to use a vise grip and channel lock to tighten it but I roughed up the boot in the process and slightly rounded the nut.

Most average metric sets go from 17 to 19 and don't even have an 18mm wrench. Why didn't Moog just use 17 and 19 like the OEM one?
Because people who don't make the OE parts don't care about you.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
More of a rant than a dumb question, but why did Moog design their sway bar end links to require two 18mm wrenches to tighten them? The OEM ones were 17mm and 19mm IIRC. I don't think there's a single 18mm fastener on an Xterra, at least that I have found.

We were out driving the other day and noticed a clunk in the front end when going over rocks. Narrowed it down to a loose nut on an end link. I get out the tool kit and I have a 17mm and 19mm but of course no 18mm wrench or socket. I had to use a vise grip and channel lock to tighten it but I roughed up the boot in the process and slightly rounded the nut.

Most average metric sets go from 17 to 19 and don't even have an 18mm wrench. Why didn't Moog just use 17 and 19 like the OEM one?

I haven't had a front sway bar since I installed Rads so I dunno. You could try to get some used ones from someone ditching their bar?
I have my old end links sitting on a shelf. If you need them I can send them.
 

westslope

Wheeling
More of a rant than a dumb question, but why did Moog design their sway bar end links to require two 18mm wrenches to tighten them? The OEM ones were 17mm and 19mm IIRC. I don't think there's a single 18mm fastener on an Xterra, at least that I have found.

We were out driving the other day and noticed a clunk in the front end when going over rocks. Narrowed it down to a loose nut on an end link. I get out the tool kit and I have a 17mm and 19mm but of course no 18mm wrench or socket. I had to use a vise grip and channel lock to tighten it but I roughed up the boot in the process and slightly rounded the nut.

Most average metric sets go from 17 to 19 and don't even have an 18mm wrench. Why didn't Moog just use 17 and 19 like the OEM one?

Sounds like another argument for erring on the side of OEM.

outback97: Gotta ask. Did you originally tighten the nut with a torque wrench to spec? And if so -- which I am guessing is the case -- how did the nut become loose?
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
I haven't had a front sway bar since I installed Rads so I dunno. You could try to get some used ones from someone ditching their bar?

I know lots of people run without a front one, but as long as this is my wife's daily and the occasional daytrip to the desert vehicle (80MPH on the freeway to get there) the swaybar is staying on.

The Moog ones aren't messed up enough to swap out to a set of OEM's, just baffled as to why when they have a choice they'd pick not only 18mm but two 18mm nuts when it's not a common size.

Because people who don't make the OE parts don't care about you.

Sad trombone.

You're not wrong, but someone had to make the decision to go with that size... why make this choice? That's more like actively being mean, not just not caring.

I have my old end links sitting on a shelf. If you need them I can send them.

Thanks for the generous offer! I may want to do that for spares, but so far I haven't messed the Moog ones up enough yet to make we want to swap. I'll ponder that if that's OK.

Sounds like another argument for erring on the side of OEM.

outback97: Gotta ask. Did you originally tighten the nut with a torque wrench to spec? And if so -- which I am guessing is the case -- how did the nut become loose?

Sure OEM is great, and for lots of parts I agree. But OEM was like $70 each and these were $18 each. They do the same function, it's just the dumb fastener size that is annoying.

As far as the torque... I dunno. Probably not, because the FSM says like 14 ft. lbs I believe. I don't even think my torque wrench is accurate down that low. I probably tightened the nut down until the one on the backside began to spin, and called that 14 lbs. As to how I could tighten it down when I don't have an 18mm wrench... I do have an 18mm deep socket, so I'm sure I put these on with the wheels off. It was a couple years ago when I did pretty much the complete front end suspension.

I'm not sure why it loosened. We do a decent amount of fast washboard and some bumpy rocky stuff wandering around in the desert, but not hardcore wheeling by any means. Other than that it's the grocery getter / errand runner for my wife.

Thanks all for the replies.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
New dumb question:

When my Xterra got here from Massachusetts it smells extremely musty on the inside. I sure would like to freshen it up but those cheap pine trees that you hang from your rear-view mirror or the cloying spray you get from the car wash just ain't going to do the job for me. Anybody have any suggestions at all?

Thank you!
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
New dumb question:

When my Xterra got here from Massachusetts it smells extremely musty on the inside. I sure would like to freshen it up but those cheap pine trees that you hang from your rear-view mirror or the cloying spray you get from the car wash just ain't going to do the job for me. Anybody have any suggestions at all?

Thank you!
Take it to a detail shop and let them clean it.
 

westslope

Wheeling
Use a small rug cleaner or steam cleaner to clean the upholstery and carpeting. In the worst case scenario, replace all rugs in the X.

Grab a bucket of hot water and mix in a cup of baking soda to clean plastic and metal surfaces using a cloth. Do not slop too much on and dry it quickly if near working parts or electrical stuff.

Leave a few upside down lids or glass jars full of baking soda inside the vehicle overnight. This technique is probably worth repeating daily over a couple of weeks.

Leave all 4 windows open for as long as possible. If you have a garage, open up the X inside the garage and point a large fan on top speed into the rear.

Replace the air cabin filters.

Clean the inside windows with powerful ammonia-based window cleaner.

Look for dead rodents or reptiles under the hood. Remove if found and apply some degreaser to the engine bay next time you stop at a do-it-yourself pressure hose auto wash. Go easy on the water pressure inside the engine bay. Perhaps protect the battery and terminals with a plastic bag.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Use a small rug cleaner or steam cleaner to clean the upholstery and carpeting. In the worst case scenario, replace all rugs in the X.

Grab a bucket of hot water and mix in a cup of baking soda to clean plastic and metal surfaces using a cloth. Do not slop too much on and dry it quickly if near working parts or electrical stuff.

Leave a few upside down lids or glass jars full of baking soda inside the vehicle overnight. This technique is probably worth repeating daily over a couple of weeks.

Leave all 4 windows open for as long as possible. If you have a garage, open up the X inside the garage and point a large fan on top speed into the rear.

Replace the air cabin filters.

Clean the inside windows with powerful ammonia-based window cleaner.

Look for dead rodents or reptiles under the hood. Remove if found and apply some degreaser to the engine bay next time you stop at a do-it-yourself pressure hose auto wash. Go easy on the water pressure inside the engine bay. Perhaps protect the battery and terminals with a plastic bag.

Now that's what I call some advise! Thank you very much and to be honest... the funniest statement in there is "Remove if found". Thanks again sir!
 

CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Ozone Generator, off Amazon. $59.00's. covers about 1,200 Sq Feet.. Roll up windows Except a crack for the Extension cord, Run 3 hours.
Ventilate really good. Before driving. Give sniff test.. if good.
Repeat, for maybe half the time, run Recirculate the air, Toss Cabin filters Get new ones.

worked good for Mouse smell, in Van.

PS. Check for Dead body, under the Rear cargo storage area.. OR body parts..
Or undercarriage, for carrion stuck.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Another stupid question...

OEM in the Xterra/Off-road Vehicle world seems a bit different than in my computer world. Wikipedia says this...

When referring to auto parts, OEM refers to the manufacturer of the original equipment, that is, the parts assembled and installed during the construction of a new vehicle. In contrast, aftermarket parts are those made by companies other than the OEM, which might be installed as replacements after the car comes out of the factory. For example, if Ford used Autolite spark plugs, Exide batteries, Bosch fuel injectors, and Ford's own engine blocks and heads when building a car, then car restorers and collectors consider those to be the OEM parts.[citation needed] Other-brand parts would be considered aftermarket, such as Champion spark plugs, DieHard batteries, Kinsler fuel injectors, and BMP engine blocks and heads.

So I think I get it but how am I supposed to know who the OEM is for this or that part on my X?

 

Springfield

Bought an X
Location
Sunny Florida
Stupid question: My 2005 X stopped starting, all the lights but no starter. Got under it and wifey hit the switch - nothing - I banged the end of the starter and it started. So R&R starter, right, nothing nefarious like a doomed controller box, right?
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
All depends on what part. For example, wheels.... do not need to be OEM they can be after market. Sparkplugs, best bet is NGK (oem) but they have been upgraded from platinum to Iridium so you use those. Sensors, most are made by Hitachi (oem) so you go buy Hitachi.

If it is a "critical part"... then best to use OEM. When in doubt use OEM, or ask here.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
New question: I'm looking at fuel and water containers. Anyone have anything good or bad to say about ROTOPAX or alternatives to consider? Thank you!
I’ve been wondering the same. Last weekend for some reason my brain skipped a beat and it wasn’t until the fuel light came on 15 miles from the nearest gas station that I realized I needed gas. Obviously I can make 15 miles but I don’t like cutting it that close, and there are some places (especially out towards where we go offroading) where gas stations close at 9pm and you’re SOL. I just don’t have a good place to keep a fuel can.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
I’ve been wondering the same. Last weekend for some reason my brain skipped a beat and it wasn’t until the fuel light came on 15 miles from the nearest gas station that I realized I needed gas. Obviously I can make 15 miles but I don’t like cutting it that close, and there are some places (especially out towards where we go offroading) where gas stations close at 9pm and you’re SOL. I just don’t have a good place to keep a fuel can.
There seem to be an almost limitless ways to attach them, stack them, etc. I'm thinking right now of the flat ones on the roof side the roof rack. Anyway... check these out for some ideas. Still curious about what the vets have to say on the subject.

tanks.jpg
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
New question: I'm looking at fuel and water containers. Anyone have anything good or bad to say about ROTOPAX or alternatives to consider? Thank you!
I like Rotopax cans for the form factor, although IMO they’re a bit overpriced. I’ve bought all of mine as factory blemished or lightly used so I’ve saved a lot doing that. And I don’t have any of their mounting accessories, just DIY stuff.


Also, a 2GL one fits perfectly in the wet box.

To reduce the tendency of unvented plastic fuel cans to swell excessively here’s what I do:

I put 3.9 gallons in my 4GL ones, let the fuel warm up (gasoline expands a lot with heat), then cap tightly while pushing in the sides of the can. This minimizes the swelling effect quite a bit. If you acclimate them in this way, they will go slightly concave when they get cold, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
I like Rotopax cans for the form factor, although IMO they’re a bit overpriced. I’ve bought all of mine as factory blemished or lightly used so I’ve saved a lot doing that. And I don’t have any of their mounting accessories, just DIY stuff.


Also, a 2GL one fits perfectly in the wet box.

To reduce the tendency of unvented plastic fuel cans to swell excessively here’s what I do:

I put 3.9 gallons in my 4GL ones, let the fuel warm up (gasoline expands a lot with heat), then cap tightly while pushing in the sides of the can. This minimizes the swelling effect quite a bit. If you acclimate them in this way, they will go slightly concave when they get cold, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

There goes you with the good information again outback97. Especially the little roof project you linked in. Normally I wouldn't because I'm paranoid but do you carry fuel containers (full) inside the X?
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
There goes you with the good information again outback97. Especially the little roof project you linked in. Normally I wouldn't because I'm paranoid but do you carry fuel containers (full) inside the X?
Not generally, no, although I have a time or two hauled them short term in the Xterras and Subaru wagons.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Yes he's back with another stupid question!

So I'm looking at tents and, in theory, I like the SUV tents that attach right over the hatch. Here's the rub, if I were to go to a campground and use it I'd be right next to the parking pad and the road rather than out in the campsite. If I go for the whole "dispersed camping" thing it's not much help either because you have to park within one car length of the road or trail. Once again you put up your SUV tent and you're right next to the path of travel.

It seems that unless you are out away from a road that an SUV tent is a poor decision. Am I missing something? Thank you!
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Stupid question number two... I just got a magnetic hide a key... where on the X should I hide it? Damn sure not hiding it in the wheel wells like the show you on tv!
 

westslope

Wheeling
Good, smart questions.

How many persons do you plan on having camping at any one time? If it is just one or two persons, I would get a 3-person tent -- 3-season medium quality should be sufficient, 4-season, alpine expedition quality is not required. This option is inexpensive and versatile.

You could easily transport the tent, waterproof ground-sheet, sleeping bag and self-inflating mattresses a hundred metres in order to enjoy a quiet, safe, comfortable tenting site.

I can set up my 3-person Eureka tent (originally designed for canoe tripping in Eastern Canada) in about 15 minutes; it takes an extra 5 minutes for the sleeping bag and mattress. Might take 25 minutes to take down and properly pack. It is all good exercise. The first few times will take a bit longer.

If you have little or no real camping experience -- RVs do not qualify -- then take a while to research this, and avoid buying the cheapest options out there unless you want to be uncomfortable and be in a position to have replace everything a few years later. Wander into a some well known backcountry outdoor stores (e.g., REI) and explain that you want to do some light car camping. Make notes. Go to another store and ask the same questions.

Think long term. If you spend the extra dollars on a quality high loft goose down sleeping bag -- one that zips completely open -- you can camp in warm summer to sub-freezing shoulder season temperatures. Take care of that bag and it will last a lifetime.

This topic should ideally be a separate thread but whatever.
 
Last edited:

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Good, smart questions.

How many persons do you plan on having camping at any one time? If it is just one or two persons, I would get a 3-person tent -- 3-season medium quality should be sufficient, 4-season, alpine expedition quality is not required. This option is inexpensive and versatile.

You could easily transport the tent, waterproof ground-sheet, sleeping bag and self-inflating mattresses a hundred metres in order to enjoy a quiet, safe, comfortable tenting site.

I can set up my 3-person Eureka tent (originally designed for canoe tripping in Eastern Canada) in about 15 minutes; it takes an extra 5 minutes for the sleeping bag and mattress. Might take 25 minutes to take down and properly pack. It is all good exercise. The first few times will take a bit longer.

If you have little or no real camping experience -- RVs do not qualify -- then take a while to research this, and avoid buying the cheapest options out there unless you want to be uncomfortable and be in a position to have replace everything a few years later. Wander into a some well known backcountry outdoor stores (e.g., REI) and explain that you want to do some light car camping. Make notes. Go to another store and ask the same questions.

Think long term. If you spend the extra dollars on a quality high loft goose down sleeping bag -- one that zips completely open -- you can camp in warm summer to sub-freezing shoulder season temperatures. Take care of that bag and it will last a lifetime.

This topic should ideally be a separate thread but whatever.
Thank you very much sir. My issue is normally spending too much and buying much more than I need. I won't be backpacking this tent so here is what I'm looking at... don't laugh too hard. :)

Lotus Bell 13' tent - Even I didn't consider this one though it's amazing. $2,500 isn't too much for a tent right?
Elk Mountain - Yukon Bell 13' tent - Considering it but there are two things... one it's still expensive $745 and two I can't find any for sale
Kodiak 12' x 9' Cabin - Also expensive at $599 and if you want the big awning it's $699. Out of stock on the website though so perhaps I can't find one.
Kodiak 10' x '10 Flex-Bow VX tent - I like the Kodiak cabin tent more but it's hard to set up with only one person. $619
Danchel 13' 4000 Pro - This one is only $216 bucks but it's a bit more flimsy than the others. Seriously considering this one.


Kodiak 12' x 9' Cabin
Kodiak - 12 x 9 ft. Cabin.jpg

Kodiak 10' x 10' Flex-Bow VX Tent
Kodiak 10 x 10 ft. Flex-Bow VX Tent.jpg

Danchel 13' 4000 Pro
danchel.jpg

I would go with either of the Kodiak tents if they weren't so expensive (and available). Looking hard at the Danchel 13'. So you can see I like the cabin style and the Flex-Bow style. Teepee and yurt are also good as long as it has some screens/windows. If you have any thoughts I would be very happy if you would share. Peace. :)
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
The more you spend for a tent the more you will enjoy it.
Well I've just revised my list as I never really measured 13' and understood that it's pretty damn big. I like this 4 man Coleman Cabin tent and it's pretty cheap. $109. We'll see if anyone screams and if not I'm buying it tonight. I would have paid more if I had found something I like but I think this is it.
 

Attachments

  • Coleman Cabin Tent 4 person - $109.jpg
    Coleman Cabin Tent 4 person - $109.jpg
    87.7 KB · Views: 1

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Well I've just revised my list as I never really measured 13' and understood that it's pretty damn big. I like this 4 man Coleman Cabin tent and it's pretty cheap. $109. We'll see if anyone screams and if not I'm buying it tonight. I would have paid more if I had found something I like but I think this is it.
I have that 4 man and a 10 man version. They're awesome! I used the 4 man as a solo tent or if one of the kids fits with me. I can have it set up in just a couple minutes by myself and ready to sleep in. It HAS to be guyed though. Without the corners staked and the lines tied out, it will twist and collapse.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
I have that 4 man and a 10 man version. They're awesome! I used the 4 man as a solo tent or if one of the kids fits with me. I can have it set up in just a couple minutes by myself and ready to sleep in. It HAS to be guyed though. Without the corners staked and the lines tied out, it will twist and collapse.
Well right now it's just me and Pansy but it seemed like I might have room for a "guest" when appropriate. :) If not then I'll upgrade when the time comes. Thank you for easing my mind Mr TerryD. Most appreciated.
 

1L19

Bought an X
Location
Sacramento
Early morning stupid battery questions:

I'm considering a second battery setup and as a marker I'm going to start with an Optima Red Top as my cranking battery and an Optima Yellow Top as my second "device powering" battery. So here we go:

1. Are there AGM batteries other than Optima which are worth a look?
2. Can you mix and match e.g. a lead-acid cranking battery with an AGM second battery? If so is there an advantage to using an Optima Red (or other AGM cranking battery) vs traditional sealed lead-acid battery?
4. What the the best locations for a second battery in a G2 X?
5. Is there a kit or "easy way" to do this myself? Taylor Spaulding has at least 100 steps to perform the installation which is based on GeoXplorer's How To on TNX which is even more complicated and way too heavy for me. If that's how it is that's fine I just don't want to jump into something I can't finish.

Thank you!
 
Last edited:

westslope

Wheeling
Go for a big one. Make sure you camp where you are protected from the wind. Or bring along larger, longer stakes and extra guy ropes.

Forget about versatility.

Do you have experience as a hunter using wall tents in the bush? If not, count on going through a few BIG tents before you get it right. Prepare to spend money to get a good one.

Also budget more time to set everything up.

Good luck!
 
Top