The Dumb Question Thread

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Seems to me you should be trying to replicate this odd steering thing while it's not moving and not running. It it's something like a mechanical linkage, it would move, and then you may find it easier.

Agreed, I'm finally at my brother's house so I'm going to have another person to rock the steering while I look. Don't really want to spend 200 on the lower steering shaft but I kind of hope I see it move so I can be done with it.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Not to stray from your topic above☝️, but anyone see something a little odd about this pic on Home Creepo’s page for Warn shackles? I found it rather funny that I’ve survived much deeper doo doo than that!!! And I don’t have a winch. Hopefully it’s pulling someone else out?!?!?
E99C6889-EF1F-4411-8B82-F6D3DC42CB44.png
 

Brunnie

Bumpers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
Not to stray from your topic above☝️, but anyone see something a little odd about this pic on Home Creepo’s page for Warn shackles? I found it rather funny that I’ve survived much deeper doo doo than that!!! And I don’t have a winch. Hopefully it’s pulling someone else out?!?!?
View attachment 12273

Yeah, he's pullin' a jeep out. ;)
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
What might cause a hot burnt smell in the cabin, somewhat reminiscent of an overworked vacuum cleaner belt? Noticed it last night after the 10 minute drive back from the in laws. Only smelled it after reversing into the garage. Thought maybe I left the ebrake in or something but didn’t smell it by rear wheels and didn’t really smell it under the hood either.
 

CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
What might cause a hot burnt smell in the cabin, somewhat reminiscent of an overworked vacuum cleaner belt? Noticed it last night after the 10 minute drive back from the in laws. Only smelled it after reversing into the garage. Thought maybe I left the ebrake in or something but didn’t smell it by rear wheels and didn’t really smell it under the hood either.
Give the sniff around the Shifters boot.. I recall its gear oil your smelling.
But not sure where it comes from, seen that info posted on another thread Regarding odd smell. Be a place you can investigate.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA

Not really. I went over it and tightened all the cam bolts, rack bolts, and the steering shaft bolt a little more but none of them were loose or anything. On a test drive I can still hear the noise at low speed and the wheel can still be forced to go left or right on sharp turns. I'm really not sure what's going on, the noise reminds me of something like a frozen shock shaft.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
So the noise is still there and thankfully getting loud enough to be able to tell which side it's coming from. At any speed under 20ish mph or while sitting still if I turn the steering wheel very slowly I can hear something bind and release repeatedly. It's primarily around the steering straight ahead area and 1 turn either left or right.

This video is very similar to the noise, I'm thinking now it's probably coming from the coil spring seats. the moog coils didn't come with a wrapping on the end like OEM and by now whatever paint they came with is long gone. Also it would help explain why it's worse after trucks been sitting in a high humidity area. I'm going to get some actual grease into the seat and see what happens.
 
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SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
So the noise is still there and thankfully getting loud enough to be able to tell which side it's coming from. At any speed under 20ish mph or while sitting still if I turn the steering wheel very slowly I can hear something bind and release repeatedly. It's primarily around the steering straight ahead area and 1 turn either left or right.

This video is very similar to the noise, I'm thinking now it's probably coming from the coil spring seats. the moog coils didn't come with a wrapping on the end like OEM and by now whatever paint they came with is long gone. Also it would help explain why it's worse after trucks been sitting in a high humidity area. I'm going to get some actual grease into the seat and see what happens.
Yeah, don't get that theoretical grease. It doesn't quite hold up under real world conditions.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
I just had a moment of clarity where I connected a few symptoms. $35 dollar Moog coil springs + one side sitting slightly lower for no clear reason + metal on metal noise coming from spring when slightly loaded. I think I need to get in there and look for a crack in the coils somewhere.

Moving the continuation of this to my build thread.
 
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RxnNic66

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
TX
The passenger rear shock broke on Roxanne. Idk how. I need to replace all four shocks anyway, what good options do I have? I have no suspension lift as of yet, just a BL.
 

RxnNic66

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
TX
Another question. The idler arm brace on 4x4 parts says it won't work with aftermarket idler arms. Will it work with a moog?
 

RxnNic66

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
TX
Really? Oh. Well boot is down in the back and up up front cuz it only went one way. And the words are right side up. So it's all good
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
6EC51B7F-EFA5-4BC8-9D8B-B3C7CE841F64.jpeg

Dumb question time: Any reason not to keep a few lug studs from my old recently replaced wheel hub as trail spares? They are a bit dirty but otherwise look to be in good shape.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
View attachment 13267

Dumb question time: Any reason not to keep a few lug studs from my old recently replaced wheel hub as trail spares? They are a bit dirty but otherwise look to be in good shape.

They're light and easy to store so I'd keep them. Its rare that you'd need them but the one time that I actually needed one my day would have been a lot easier if I'd had a spare handy lol.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
They're light and easy to store so I'd keep them. Its rare that you'd need them but the one time that I actually needed one my day would have been a lot easier if I'd had a spare handy lol.

Thanks. Yeah it’s unlikely I’ll need them but I’ll keep some on hand just in case. In 30 years of driving I’ve had to replace exactly one, but you never know, and they don’t take up much room.
 

Me!Here!

Bought an X
Location
Somerville, MA
I feel like there's a good story here haha

There actually is, apparently someone tried to steal my lug nuts (cuz they're really cool red ones) I did not realize before we hit the highway for a weekend getaway 75 miles from home, did not notice anything on the highway but once we arrived I noticed she felt off...I got out had my wife drive towards me and all I could see was the pass rear tire wobbling, 4 lugs gone on the rear 2 on the front, 5 of the studs sheared off...but with that said my avatar is from that weekend, it was a nice trip after I fixed everything...
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
There actually is, apparently someone tried to steal my lug nuts (cuz they're really cool red ones) I did not realize before we hit the highway for a weekend getaway 75 miles from home, did not notice anything on the highway but once we arrived I noticed she felt off...I got out had my wife drive towards me and all I could see was the pass rear tire wobbling, 4 lugs gone on the rear 2 on the front, 5 of the studs sheared off...but with that said my avatar is from that weekend, it was a nice trip after I fixed everything...

Wow that could have ended worse than it did but still, fixing 5 of those must have been a huge PIA. I had to replace one on the rear after going a little too crazy with the red threadlocker on a wheel spacer and that was bad enough.
 

Me!Here!

Bought an X
Location
Somerville, MA
Wow that could have ended worse than it did but still, fixing 5 of those must have been a huge PIA. I had to replace one on the rear after going a little too crazy with the red threadlocker on a wheel spacer and that was bad enough.

My old man gave me a couple tricks to use to make the job a bit easier with limited tool access
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Can I convert my front Bilstein 5100s to a coil-over and put a 600# or 650# spring on them? Or should I get a pre-packaged setup like the Nisstec Bilstein B8 6112 coil-over kit?

And, can I get by with the stock upper control arms with either of those setups?
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
Can I convert my front Bilstein 5100s to a coil-over and put a 600# or 650# spring on them? Or should I get a pre-packaged setup like the Nisstec Bilstein B8 6112 coil-over kit?

And, can I get by with the stock upper control arms with either of those setups?

I'm not totally sure what you're asking about converting because 5100's are coilovers.

As far as springs those can definitely be swapped, 650 might be a bit stiff depending on the weight of your truck, steel bumpers and skids usually work well with that weight. I don't have any personal experience with the 6112 but those usually get great reviews from people that have used them.

If you set the 5100's to the lowest perch (no lift) you can probably get away with the factory UCA, the amount of lift where aftermarket becomes necessary is usually right at 2".
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Can I convert my front Bilstein 5100s to a coil-over and put a 600# or 650# spring on them? Or should I get a pre-packaged setup like the Nisstec Bilstein B8 6112 coil-over kit?

And, can I get by with the stock upper control arms with either of those setups?
You CAN. But they suck. 5100s don't have the valving to deal with that mess. Mine was hopping when it came out of pot holes. Lifting the front tires. It sucked.

Get the 6100s or Rads or really anything but converted 5100s with over 550lb coils.
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
I'm not totally sure what you're asking about converting because 5100's are coilovers.
That’s why I asked on the “Dumb question”thread. LOL! Thanks for clearing that up for me though. That actually makes sense not that I think about it.

You CAN. But they suck. 5100s don't have the valving to deal with that mess. Mine was hopping when it came out of pot holes. Lifting the front tires.

I currently have my spring perches set an 0.5 inches, and get a lot of wheel lifts. what I’m thinking is that pre-loading the spring has given my the little lift I wanted, but sacrificed some articulation.

I’d ultimately like to get a WAM winch plate and winch, and remove the front sway bar. So I’m leaning toward 600 LB springs, but would 650 lbs help stabilize the front better?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
That’s why I asked on the “Dumb question”thread. LOL! Thanks for clearing that up for me though. That actually makes sense not that I think about it.

.





I currently have my spring perches set an 0.5 inches, and get a lot of wheel lifts. what I’m thinking is that pre-loading the spring has given my the little lift I wanted, but sacrificed some articulation.

I’d ultimately like to get a WAM winch plate and winch, and remove the front sway bar. So I’m leaning toward 600 LB springs, but would 650 lbs help stabilize the front better?

Lifting reduces down travel. The preload accomplishes the lift. So yeah kinda.

You can't increase the lift and not change the control arm, steering and front diff mounting locations and keep the up/down travel #s you had stock. You gain up travel but lose down travel because the range of travel of the joints are still the same.

Stiffer springs carry more load. They also reduce body roll. The factory sway bar and spring rates are designed for best ride and handling. You increase the spring rates and you mess with that balance.

Now. I have been without sway bars running 650lb/in coils and Rads for a couple years carrying a full frame Warn winch in a full Shrockworks bumper. I'm satisfied with how it works but there's a little part of me that wants to drop back to 600lb/in coils and put on a smaller sway bar like from a 2wd 4cyl Fronty just to see what it affects.
 

General_Tarfun

Sliders
Location
Atlanta, GA
That’s why I asked on the “Dumb question”thread. LOL! Thanks for clearing that up for me though. That actually makes sense not that I think about it.



I currently have my spring perches set an 0.5 inches, and get a lot of wheel lifts. what I’m thinking is that pre-loading the spring has given my the little lift I wanted, but sacrificed some articulation.

I’d ultimately like to get a WAM winch plate and winch, and remove the front sway bar. So I’m leaning toward 600 LB springs, but would 650 lbs help stabilize the front better?

I'm not really a fan of the 5100's with a stock spring rate coil either, with just the slightest preload applied it struggles to control the wheel. I emailed Bilstein asking what the damping rates were for it and they didn't have access to the info because it was vehicle specific. They did know the rates for the 5125's I have though.
 

RxnNic66

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
TX
Where does everybody mount their fire extinguishers and stuff? Trying to find a good place in here that is easily accessible from the driver's seat that doesn't impede visibility or moving parts such as the seat sliding all the way forward and back.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Where does everybody mount their fire extinguishers and stuff? Trying to find a good place in here that is easily accessible from the driver's seat that doesn't impede visibility or moving parts such as the seat sliding all the way forward and back.

I keep one in the wet box on the roof.
 
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