The Dumb Question Thread

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
For you guys that have added a lift shackle and already had a 2° (or whatever) shim, did you just leave the shim? Remove it? Change to a different angle?

I did kind of the reverse order; I had the lift shackle with no shim, then did the aal and added the shim. My understanding is that if you need it for the spring you need it for the spring, and that the shackle lift alone doesn’t require it since you are changing just one end.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I did kind of the reverse order; I had the lift shackle with no shim, then did the aal and added the shim. My understanding is that if you need it for the spring you need it for the spring, and that the shackle lift alone doesn’t require it since you are changing just one end.
This.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Is there a thread detailing which shocks are okay to run spacers with? I have Nisstec MKII extended travel and I’m wondering if I can slide a 1/4” spacer on top or if I should just increase preload instead. Obviously I don’t want to bind up my CV and lower ball joints.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Is there a thread detailing which shocks are okay to run spacers with? I have Nisstec MKII extended travel and I’m wondering if I can slide a 1/4” spacer on top or if I should just increase preload instead. Obviously I don’t want to bind up my CV and lower ball joints.
Pull the bottom bolt out of your shocks and then fully extend your suspension. The difference between the bolt hole in the control arm and shock bushing is how much spacer you can run.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Pull the bottom bolt out of your shocks and then fully extend your suspension. The difference between the bolt hole in the control arm and shock bushing is how much spacer you can run.
Simple enough. I didn’t know if it hit the “too extreme” point before that or not. I’ll check next tire rotation.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Simple enough. I didn’t know if it hit the “too extreme” point before that or not. I’ll check next tire rotation.
The lower ball joint maxes out first. Then the TREs, then the CVs. You can leave a little extra there for safety but even maxed out, I think the boots will fail on three lower ball joints before the joints themselves.

I've got to change a lower ball joint soon myself because the boot is wasted.
 

Gen X

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
Fluid change question. Time to do transmission fluid. 2010 with 143k. Do I drop the pan and change the screen? I’ve seen many say yes, and many say not necessary.

For the Xterra, what do you all think?
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Depends. If it's coming out the color of arterial blood, you're fine. If it comes out looking like it ate taco bell, drop it.

But if it's pink like Jim's mom, replace the whole thing
 

Gen X

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
So drain and check the color? I bought it in 2020 and had the fluid changed at a shop then, but didn’t look at it. They didn’t mention needing a filter change. I’ve put 23k on since buying it. Just trying to figure out if another flush and fill at a shop is good, or if I should do it myself with a little more intervention.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
So drain and check the color? I bought it in 2020 and had the fluid changed at a shop then, but didn’t look at it. They didn’t mention needing a filter change. I’ve put 23k on since buying it. Just trying to figure out if another flush and fill at a shop is good, or if I should do it myself with a little more intervention.
Poor Man's Flush for the win.
 

ThatGuy

Need Bigger Tires
Supporting Member
Location
Big Island
I would like to run wire from my battery to the rear of my x with Anderson plugs or something similar to plug in an inverter or my tire pump. Would 8 gauage work or do I need 6 or 4 AWG? Was thinking of putting a 50 amp fuse inline on it as well. Thanks for any advice.
Ken
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
So drain and check the color? I bought it in 2020 and had the fluid changed at a shop then, but didn’t look at it. They didn’t mention needing a filter change. I’ve put 23k on since buying it. Just trying to figure out if another flush and fill at a shop is good, or if I should do it myself with a little more intervention.
The 2nd Gen transmission doesn't use a filter, just a screen. They're not maintenance items according to the manual and service schedule.

A Poor Man's Flush every 30k miles is what I do.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I would like to run wire from my battery to the rear of my x with Anderson plugs or something similar to plug in an inverter or my tire pump. Would 8 gauage work or do I need 6 or 4 AWG? Was thinking of putting a 50 amp fuse inline on it as well. Thanks for any advice.
Ken
00 and a 150A or bigger fuse. Give yourself a battery terminal to work with.
 

Gen X

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
I’m thinking of getting a fridge slide. But, once installed it will block my storage tray cover yes?

My thought is get a sheet of plywood and trace the cover, then cut it where needed so I can still access the storage.

Those of you with fridge slides, what did you do?
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
I’m thinking of getting a fridge slide. But, once installed it will block my storage tray cover yes?

My thought is get a sheet of plywood and trace the cover, then cut it where needed so I can still access the storage.

Those of you with fridge slides, what did you do?
I made a full tray slide that extends fully, and when empty, I can access the cubby hole under the plastic tray. However, I Don't actually use it. I think I have something in there currently, but I'm not sure I can tell you what it is. IMO, that area is too small to be truly useful.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Is the V6 in the later year R50's going to be pretty similar to a 2nd Gen Xterra engine?

My buddy has a 2003 Pathfinder (R50) and mentioned the other day that it hasn't been running well. Sounds like it will usually start OK but then loses power... he did say something about someone previously telling him it could be cam or crank sensors.

I've replaced cam and crank sensors on our Xterras, so I'm familiar with what's involved. I'd like to help him get his Pathy running better but want to know what I'm getting into.

Assuming that they are similar, are Hitachi or OEM the go-to sensors just like with our Xterras?
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I would like to run wire from my battery to the rear of my x with Anderson plugs or something similar to plug in an inverter or my tire pump. Would 8 gauage work or do I need 6 or 4 AWG? Was thinking of putting a 50 amp fuse inline on it as well. Thanks for any advice.
Ken
This depends on how many amps you need to draw, and how much voltage drop you can afford.
00 and a 150A or bigger fuse. Give yourself a battery terminal to work with.
I'll disagree with this. While you absolutely COULD run 00 and put a 150A fuse there, do you really need to? How big is your inverter, and what fuse is in the compressor?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
This depends on how many amps you need to draw, and how much voltage drop you can afford.

I'll disagree with this. While you absolutely COULD run 00 and put a 150A fuse there, do you really need to? How big is your inverter, and what fuse is in the compressor?
I just like the convenience of having a terminal for the entire battery not under the hood. So as you add more things, you don't have to resize what you did or repeatedly run stuff up front.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I like to use fuse blocks. You can run a 4ga to a fuse block rated at 100A, and be fine. But, I see where you're going there, and I can see how that would be useful. I still don't feel like running 00 gauge is necessary. at most, you'd need 2 AWG, 00 is rated at like 200A, and if you're putting that much out, you should really be looking at other solutions, IMO. To each their own though. ;)
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
BTW, when putting in an anderson plug, if it's going to be on the outside, make sure to usese a weatherprroof cover. Those terminals can easily corrode. I use 3pin anderson connectors to hook up to the DC-DC charger in my trailer. I had to order the stupid covers from Australia, since nobody here sells. them.
 

CHUG

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Trying to Get Rotary Mower working again. ALL good Except Rear wheel, Wheel does not swivel.. Grrr.. Zerk would not take Grease. Removed cleaned. grease flows Re-installed Pressed Grease, really hard to press New grease.

Hmm easy just Push cutter pin out.. Drop shaft.. easy.. NOT a chance (insert French words). Big F-hammer, Heat, Wedge under the frame. Gained 1/4". CRAP. Not gonna work for that distance to drop. ( 5")
Did add a rim and filled with Penetrating oil to soak. hoping week of that will ooze deep. .

Wonder if a Gear Puller will press it out??? Or stuck with a Hydraulic Press to force out. My last resort. ugh...

Beer time.. DONE for the day!


The Photo of Beast!.
Mower 1.JPG
 

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reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Getting ready to install a 180A alternator in my 03, but I'm not sure exactly what cables to upgrade, and where they need to go....anybody got any tips on this one?
 

BEEFY

I Smile when Gasoline Can Freeze
Getting ready to install a 180A alternator in my 03, but I'm not sure exactly what cables to upgrade, and where they need to go....anybody got any tips on this one?
The ones I did were the main ground cable. Alternator charging cable. Power cable to the under hood fuse box along with upgrading the fuze for the alternator. Power wire to the starter. I just folled the wires, upped them a guage or 2. And make them longer when ever possible. I also added a night switch in the grill to kill power when I park for long periods.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I'm not modifying the oem fuse box. Would it work if I upgrade the alternator to battery wire, engine ground, and battery ground, without modifying anything else? I just need to be able to pump more juice into the battery while driving.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Extra alternator isn't going to help with that. You need a house battery and a DC-DC charger setup.

Alternators do not charge batteries. Period. Look on any battery manufacturer's website and they'll tell you that. They maintain a voltage, but to charge you have to exceed the target voltage in order to charge.
 

xyoverland

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Other than being a pain in the butt to remove and/or reinstall, any reason I shouldn’t weld my bumper to the bumper support wings to make it one piece? I suppose in a really bad situation I’d want that to move before it tweaked my frame. Just not convinced it’s not moving with less effort than it should.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Extra alternator isn't going to help with that. You need a house battery and a DC-DC charger setup.

Alternators do not charge batteries. Period. Look on any battery manufacturer's website and they'll tell you that. They maintain a voltage, but to charge you have to exceed the target voltage in order to charge.
Alternator charges the starter battery, right? I have a house battery in the trailer (charging off a 20A dc-dc charger).

The issue is, the stock alternator doesn't put out enough juice to charge the trailer battery, the starter battery, and charge my power station that I use to run the fridge. I have a 180A mean green alternator that I want to put in.
 
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