The Dumb Question Thread

TheCrabby1

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
I had a cel come on tue and the shop replaced the MAF sensor with a hitachi one and 2 day's later the light came back on . When they checked it out yesterday they said the ECM is not recognizing that the new MAF is functioning but there big ODB system is showing that it's working . They also said there was a bulletin out about this from Nissan . They also said that since it's a small # Nissan doesn't have to do a recall but they can flash [download] stuff back into your ECM that will resolve this issue for a modest little charge $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
Has anyone else had this type of issue. The MAF sensor they took out was some POS sub-standard make that looked almost new . Think they said Duralast . Could the ECM have relearned something from this garbage sensor that made it not recognize the new one , I don't know !

I was told I could drive it like this for right now since the MAF is functioning and of course I'm supposed to leave for the Nexterra/Rausch event today . "" Talk about perfect timing ""
ANY and ALL comment's-feedback would be appreciated .
 

Brunnie

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Colorado Springs
I had a cel come on tue and the shop replaced the MAF sensor with a hitachi one and 2 day's later the light came back on . When they checked it out yesterday they said the ECM is not recognizing that the new MAF is functioning but there big ODB system is showing that it's working . They also said there was a bulletin out about this from Nissan . They also said that since it's a small # Nissan doesn't have to do a recall but they can flash [download] stuff back into your ECM that will resolve this issue for a modest little charge $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
Has anyone else had this type of issue. The MAF sensor they took out was some POS sub-standard make that looked almost new . Think they said Duralast . Could the ECM have relearned something from this garbage sensor that made it not recognize the new one , I don't know !

I was told I could drive it like this for right now since the MAF is functioning and of course I'm supposed to leave for the Nexterra/Rausch event today . "" Talk about perfect timing ""
ANY and ALL comment's-feedback would be appreciated .
Bet the code is P0101. I get the same thing and have had my shop check for other codes or anything else with their higher quality scanner(s), and they didn't find anything. Their advice was to keep an eye on it, keep resetting the CEL, just do my normal air filter maintenance and clean the sensor at the same time. I do have a ScanGauge attached to the OBD port so I can check codes when the CEL light comes on and reset the P0101 code on the fly.
 

XterraRising

Sliders
Supporting Member
Location
Utah
Get it flashed. I have to update flash files on ECM’s all the time. Usually the updates have something to do with widening range of operational parameters, especially when I deal with ammonia or NOx sensors on Cat aftertreatment systems. Many updates include other things that help with engine operation overall.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Does the Radflo 2.0 extended travel have the “clunk?” Or is that only the 2.5” ones?

Now I’m debating between Radflo and the MK84 mII.
 

SledheadX

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Rochester, NY
Does the Radflo 2.0 extended travel have the “clunk?” Or is that only the 2.5” ones?

Now I’m debating between Radflo and the MK84 mII.
No clunk on my 2.0’s. For what I’ve read, there’s appears to be an issue when people use their Nissan mounting hardware with RadFlo’s of either size. Google “RadFlo clunk how I fixed it PBR” and read the post. Yes I replaced my hardware when I first installed my rads so I don’t have a comparison to the old Nissan bolts. I will be TS-ing when the weather breaks in March/April so I’ll be cleaning them up and checking their wear after almost 20k miles on them.
 

Shane_Anigans

Test Drive
Location
MI
PB Blaster works equally as well. But I’ve had some really good luck with this other stuff.
Good old PB did the trick! Just removed the original (Date code 1211!) spare, complete with rusty wheel and an animal nest of some sort. Once I got it freed up, I coated the chain with the stuff before winding it back up. I put the spare in my garage for now, since the tire is well past its freshness date, and the wheel it's mounted to looks a bit suspect as well, but that may just be surface corrosion.

Now for the hitch!
 

outback97

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Yeah, it looks pretty simple, based on the videos I've watched. Might need an extra set of hands to hold thing thing, but I've got a jack so hopefully that'll do the job.

Last summer I repainted our OEM bumper due to some rust that was appearing, and when I reinstalled the hitch I used a couple of straps on either end of it to help support it. Wish I had a photo of it. but basically had the hatch open, straps looped around each side of the hitch, and up to the rear seat strikers. I used 1" webbing straps with cam buckles so I could pull them tighter or let some out to adjust it. Worked great and made it a lot easier to wrangle the hitch when working solo, it would have been a bit awkward otherwise.
 

Shane_Anigans

Test Drive
Location
MI
Last summer I repainted our OEM bumper due to some rust that was appearing, and when I reinstalled the hitch I used a couple of straps on either end of it to help support it. Wish I had a photo of it. but basically had the hatch open, straps looped around each side of the hitch, and up to the rear seat strikers. I used 1" webbing straps with cam buckles so I could pull them tighter or let some out to adjust it. Worked great and made it a lot easier to wrangle the hitch when working solo, it would have been a bit awkward otherwise.
I need to repaint mine as well, once it gets a bit warmer.
 

outback97

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
@Shane_Anigans I took a look through my phone and actually did find a picture that shows the strap I used to help hold the hitch for removal and reinstall. You get the idea I'm sure.

Painting the bumper really cleaned up the look of the back end. Also used a heat gun on the plastic cover, and that helped darken it up a bit although it was hard to get it even and it's already faded a bit. Utah sun is brutal and it's always parked outside.
 

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Shane_Anigans

Test Drive
Location
MI
Painting the bumper really cleaned up the look of the back end. Also used a heat gun on the plastic cover, and that helped darken it up a bit although it was hard to get it even and it's already faded a bit. Utah sun is brutal and it's always parked outside.
Mine is rusting around the left license plate light. I'm thinking I'll redo it in black.
 

SledheadX

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Rochester, NY
Mine is rusting around the left license plate light. I'm thinking I'll redo it in black.
I had the same rust spots around the lights and even a dent from the previous owner. I also painted it black. Love the new look. Just some advice if you do paint it. Remove the bumper and prep it fully. Especially behind and around the inner framework. These bumpers are prone to rust and in my opinion their paint job was garbage. So far 4 years in NY winters and my rattle can makeover still holding strong. If you have rust at the license plate light, it’s probably elsewhere too.
 

XterraRising

Sliders
Supporting Member
Location
Utah
Yeah, it looks pretty simple, based on the videos I've watched. Might need an extra set of hands to hold thing thing, but I've got a jack so hopefully that'll do the job.
Get a bolt started on one side just a few threads. Then lift up the other side and thread in another bolt. That’s how I did mine. It’s a bit on the cumbersome side, but I’m used doing work like this on my back in the mud. So a garage floor was luxurious to me.
 

Shane_Anigans

Test Drive
Location
MI
I had the same rust spots around the lights and even a dent from the previous owner. I also painted it black. Love the new look. Just some advice if you do paint it. Remove the bumper and prep it fully. Especially behind and around the inner framework. These bumpers are prone to rust and in my opinion their paint job was garbage. So far 4 years in NY winters and my rattle can makeover still holding strong. If you have rust at the license plate light, it’s probably elsewhere too.
Yeah, I saw some on the inside of it when I was underneath getting the spare tire off, so I'll definitely do both sides of it.
 

Shane_Anigans

Test Drive
Location
MI
Get a bolt started on one side just a few threads. Then lift up the other side and thread in another bolt. That’s how I did mine. It’s a bit on the cumbersome side, but I’m used doing work like this on my back in the mud. So a garage floor was luxurious to me.
I'll probably just get my little brother to come over and hold it in place while I install the fasteners. After all, that's what little brothers are for!
 

outback97

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
2nd gen people, how do I get a 2nd gen to switch into 4wd when the abs isn't working.

I *think* you can by doing the following:

1) turn off the truck
2) switch to 4WD
3) pull ABS fuse
4) start the truck
ETA 5) reinsert ABS fuse so you have speedo / odo

But I have never had to do this. Maybe someone else can confirm?

ETA thanks @Prime for adding more detailed info
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
But yes, that process is correct. You can reinstall the fuse after 4wd is engaged. If you leave it out you'll have no speedo or odometer.

While you are in 4wd you can shift back and forth to 4-lo to your hearts content. But. If you shift back to 2wd, you have to pull the fuse and restart the truck.
 
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