The Dumb Question Thread

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia

You might have to call them. But they're fantastic.
I’ll call them tomorrow. I previously asked Z1 if they’d sell standard front and extended rear and they said no (https://www.z1offroad.com/z1-produc...5-15-stainless-steel-brake-lines-p-19809.html) but I’m also wondering if they’re “standard” is slightly longer than stock. If so, that’d be all I need.

@TheCrabby1 got their extended ones, but in the front it’s a little too long for my comfort.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I’ll call them tomorrow. I previously asked Z1 if they’d sell standard front and extended rear and they said no (https://www.z1offroad.com/z1-produc...5-15-stainless-steel-brake-lines-p-19809.html) but I’m also wondering if they’re “standard” is slightly longer than stock. If so, that’d be all I need.

@TheCrabby1 got their extended ones, but in the front it’s a little too long for my comfort.
Crown will make whatever you want. Super reasonable on price too.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
I think I saw them, but had never heard of them so I wasn’t sure.

Im pretty sure a saw several folks posting about them for d21s and d22s on Infamous or Nicoclub back when I had my 97 hardbody pickup. Prime’s suggestion may be the better option to get exactly what you want though.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Got a wild hair idea to install a small aftermarket powered subwoofer under the seat.

My dumb question is if I can just remove this plastic duct from the HVAC system. And if so… what to plug it with, or where to redirect it.

I don’t care about any backseat passengers toe temperatures. No real need for air back there and if I remove this it’ll make a much easier flat area for install.

More of a follow up to my own dumb question earlier. I got the small JBL powered sub installed the other day. I removed the underseat duct completely, and ended up just duct taping over the duct that feeds that. I cut a piece of plywood to fill the resulting gap and padded it with some carpet pad.

I cut and painted a 5/8" piece of plywood and screwed it to the floor, ran my wires, laid the original carpet back down, and then screwed the sub to that. RCA cables and remote turn on lead come down from the head unit, fused + power comes through the firewall, ground is attached just in front of the sub. Dirty truck but relatively clean wiring.

The speaker sounds good and fills in the lower end nicely, for what it is. It falls off really rapidly below about 40Hz, but it's good for the music we listen to.

Now I want to get another one to put into the commuter-ru.
 

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TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
More of a follow up to my own dumb question earlier. I got the small JBL powered sub installed the other day. I removed the underseat duct completely, and ended up just duct taping over the duct that feeds that. I cut a piece of plywood to fill the resulting gap and padded it with some carpet pad.

I cut and painted a 5/8" piece of plywood and screwed it to the floor, ran my wires, laid the original carpet back down, and then screwed the sub to that. RCA cables and remote turn on lead come down from the head unit, fused + power comes through the firewall, ground is attached just in front of the sub. Dirty truck but relatively clean wiring.

The speaker sounds good and fills in the lower end nicely, for what it is. It falls off really rapidly below about 40Hz, but it's good for the music we listen to.

Now I want to get another one to put into the commuter-ru.
I'll bet if you turn it up to 11 it could literally shake $hit lose !! :D
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Yeah I found that in my searching around. I reached out to AFE today just to see what they’d say. I’ll post if I get a response. Even though it’s stainless, it goes up pretty high after the muffler and with the humidity here and how much water I see from my exhaust now, I don’t want all that water making it back forward after I stop.

Unless AFE tells me it’s going to horribly degrade performance or something I’m going to do it.
Did you hear back from them?
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
and ended up just duct taping over the duct that feeds that.
That will eventually dry up and come off. The heat crystalizes the adhesive and it turns to powder. The metallic duct tape doesn't. Do you have any kind of access to change it when the time comes?.... if it matters.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
Anybody know the exact length of standard/OEM brake lines? I need to give a length for quotes for custom ones, but I’ve only seen a value listed for extended ones. I could measure mine, but I don’t know if the measurement is the line itself or tip to tip of the fittings.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Anybody know the exact length of standard/OEM brake lines? I need to give a length for quotes for custom ones, but I’ve only seen a value listed for extended ones. I could measure mine, but I don’t know if the measurement is the line itself or tip to tip of the fittings.

Front lines?
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
That will eventually dry up and come off. The heat crystalizes the adhesive and it turns to powder. The metallic duct tape doesn't. Do you have any kind of access to change it when the time comes?.... if it matters.

The junction with the next upstream duct piece was pretty loose and not airtight, and we rarely to never have the HVAC set to the lower ducts that feed this one anyway, so I'm not too worried about it. To access, I would have to remove the seat (four bolts and one wire) and the sub (four screws and some wires) and a trim piece in order to pull back the carpet. It's not something you'd want to do often, but really not too bad.

The duct tape was absolutely a half assed solution. I was tired of working in the heat and crappy air quality, and running out of time to get it done.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Anybody know the exact length of standard/OEM brake lines? I need to give a length for quotes for custom ones, but I’ve only seen a value listed for extended ones. I could measure mine, but I don’t know if the measurement is the line itself or tip to tip of the fittings.
I just got off the phone w/ Crown about my front brake lines. Stock length on the X is 14.5 center to center. I ordered mine 20.5 center to center.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I just got off the phone w/ Crown about my front brake lines. Stock length on the X is 14.5 center to center. I ordered mine 20.5 center to center.
Just ordered my set. +1” in the front (my front are currently okay) and +2” in the back. Priced better than everybody else I’ve seen online. 4 week lead time though.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
You're a stud for having done it in the first place.... this air has been..... well.... the worst in the world a few days.
Yeah I installed it last Saturday, right after the AQI was at its worst point.

Mainly I was trying to get it done before my wife flew back into town, this is her semi daily driver and I was wanting to surprise her.
 

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Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Why didn't they put a light underhood on the X?!

I'm going to attempt an aftermarket kit to brighten up my wrenching experience today but the great folks in China didn't give me any instructions. I bought a "more affordable", shiat, kit to put in old Chevy and it came with the smallest gauge wire, maybe 30ga, looks like a hair that I'm supposed to solder to 18ga..

Let the fun begin. One of the kids comes with a hood switch so I don't need to trace wiring down but I fear the other one..
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Which side is which damnit!?

20210827_114603_copy_763x1612.jpg

20210827_114610_copy_1612x763.jpg

The top one has a bit more arch on the right. The bottom one has that same "bit more arch" on the left. So they're not identical. But I can't figure out which side is which!
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Not knowing since I don’t have those with the heim joints, but I’m gonna try some logic and make a public guess to see if I’m right. I’d say the more arched side of each arm would be to the front of the truck to help clear the coil bucket if you want increased caster due to lifting?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Not knowing since I don’t have those with the heim joints, but I’m gonna try some logic and make a public guess to see if I’m right. I’d say the more arched side of each arm would be to the front of the truck to help clear the coil bucket if you want increased caster due to lifting?
I like this logic. I guess we'll find out.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
So here we are. This is the upper with the larger arc at the front. The Uniball has a slight backwards tilt compared to the frame. Is this right? Or should the Uniball be more level with the frame?

20210828_162406_copy_1612x763.jpg

20210828_162340_copy_1612x763.jpg

20210828_162346_copy_1612x763.jpg

20210828_162352_copy_1612x763.jpg

Thoughts?
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Ok, ill bite a second time. Have you tried putting the spindle in the ball joint for each? I have to believe one will line the spindle to the ball joint hole better for the expected caster angle. But I know for damn sure you’re not upside down. And let me guess, NEITHER binds on your coil bucket? Does one give you more droop than the other? Have you called Greg yet?
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Sent this picture to a buddy in Vegas who has the arms.

This was his response.

Screenshot_20210829-120758_Messages.jpg

Possible? I emailed pics to Greg. We'll see if I get a response.
 

SledheadX

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
Rochester, NY
But did he tell you which side they were for? You could get at least half the rig done

And separate general dumb question.

leading into my TS and want to know which is more cost effective on the front CV’s. Getting the Rugged Rocks extended shafts to retro-fit my CV’s for $140/pair or completely new pair for the QX56 (NI8433) off RockAuto for $220/pair? Mine don’t sound or feel bad right now and boots are good. Also looking down the line when I have to replace a CV joint.
 
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