The Dumb Question Thread
- Thread starter SledheadX
- Start date
Me!Here!
Bought an X
- Location
- Somerville, MA
NOt even sure this should go here but....what the DUECE is up with our windows and master switches?? Why are they such crapola??
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Not sure, but maybe you should start the “Gripes & Grumbles” thread
Me!Here!
Bought an X
- Location
- Somerville, MA
Tempting....
So here's a dumb question....did the X's come with auto up windows? I ask as when I bought my 10 a couple years back it was auto down and manual up, replaced the master switch a couple months back w/one from Amazon and this has auto up...just wish these switches were a tad less finicky
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I replaced my switches as well and also gained auto up. Which I love. If they could add the auto up for the drivers window, why not the others?
Me!Here!
Bought an X
- Location
- Somerville, MA
Yeah I love it too, am 43 and this is my first with auto up...I'm a smoker so auto up and down is real nice
Me!Here!
Bought an X
- Location
- Somerville, MA
Damn...I'm actually 44...forgot
AustinFound
Bought an X
- Location
- Austin, TX
I frequently forget my own age too...
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Same here. Auto up and down for both front windows on the wife's Pathy.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Whenever I'm on a trip that involves driving a long time on one of those roads made up of larger than normal gravel rock pieces (the roads that just vibrate everything to death, steering wheel pulling left/right/left) I've wondered what's easier on the rack/tie rods, hold the steering steady or allowing it to jump back and forth and just steering it loosely. Thoughts?
- Location
- Covington, Va
I don't know that it really matters. I'd say neither one is good for it, especially if you're lifted where the TREs are further out of plane with the rack than originally intended. That generates the loading that wears the bushings inside the rack that causes them to thump.
Holding it steady is probably better for the rack than the constant movement and letting it move is probably easier on the TREs. That's just an assumption though, and probably not worth the breath to say outloud.
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Makes sense to me, I'd think holding the rack in one place would put most of the load on the TRE's because they would (I think) be weaker than the rack and more willing to give if the rack bushings were in good shape. That might be what happened to the last set of moog tre's that I had, they wore out in something like 7 months but I had a few long trips over forest service roads like that.
- Location
- Denton, TX
These might be the best dumb questions ever.
t's a good thing when you learn something from a dumb question, even if they are randumb~
Lucas
t's a good thing when you learn something from a dumb question, even if they are randumb~
Lucas
General_Tarfun
Sliders
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Me!Here!
Bought an X
- Location
- Somerville, MA
I do it all the freakin time!!! First it was glasses now memory...turning into my old man
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Random (hardly randumb) question #2a,b: Just received the OffRoad Gorilla M226 rear diff cover with both logos (Thank you very much) and where should I stop the paint job? Just TO the mating surface of the outer ring (only the 3/8" outer edge), or mask off part or paint All of the mating surface of the outer ring (rear face the gasket applies to)? Should there be any paint touching the gasket so I don't have raw steel exposed or will that make a bad seal? New LubeLocker Gasket hasn't arrived yet but want to get painting started.
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- Location
- Rochester, NY
Thx man. That's exactly what I did so far with the self-etch primer. Now it's do I do Black logos on blue body? or blue logos on black body? decisions, decisions...
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- Location
- All over PA
Black on blue. Always. But I’m biased.
- Location
- Rochester, NY
I’m working on it.... This ceramic fortified caliper paint takes forever to dry!!
- Location
- All over PA
jsexton
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Lewis Center, OH
Also, don’t bother painting the inside at all. If that rusts, you have much bigger problems.
- Location
- Livermore, CA
How long do I need to run the car/drive how far for the battery to recharge to a decent level after the car sat for a week with two dash cams going?
Also what heavy duty jumper cables does everyone carry? My jump jack was dead and the only traditional cables I have were from a kit I got at the white elephant gift exchange at work last year and they’re total garbage. I don’t know why anyone would even manufacture them that thin.
Also what heavy duty jumper cables does everyone carry? My jump jack was dead and the only traditional cables I have were from a kit I got at the white elephant gift exchange at work last year and they’re total garbage. I don’t know why anyone would even manufacture them that thin.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Our charging system won't do a good job bringing the battery back. Get a charger and trickle charge it. It'll be healthier for the battery.
I use some of the cables from Wal-Mart and they seem made reasonably well.
- Location
- Hainesville IL
so, my gen 2 has a 2 inch lift and 2 inch body lift and 33s on factory wheels. i ordered 1.5" wheel spacers from nisstech and im wondering, do you think i have to do a little trimming up front? melt mod and what not has been done of course.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
A bit. Not much.
- Location
- Glenside, PA
- Location
- Hainesville IL
Ok, I say on Jays build how much he cut so I think I have an idea. But thanks for confirming.
- Location
- Hainesville IL
More or less than what you did?
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Less. I'm on 35s. I cut all the way back to the slider.
- Location
- Hainesville IL
besides a shrock, what front bumpers are there for gen 2s that are body lift friendly?
bad enough i get crap for my gen 1's feature.
bad enough i get crap for my gen 1's feature.
- Location
- Glenside, PA
- Location
- Covington, Va
I'm not running a body lift but I really like my Shrock. Hefty doesn't make anything but the aluminum version on his plate bumper and last time I priced it, it was around $1700.
- Location
- Glenside, PA
Ooof. Forgot he stopped making steel plate bumpers.
Me!Here!
Bought an X
- Location
- Somerville, MA
Besides gauges and tweeters what else can be shoved in a pillar pod?
Own it. Make a meme out of it.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I like how the shrock fits with the body lift. The only noticeable difference is that the bash plate has a steeper angle.
- Location
- Hainesville IL
i was doing some pricing and with shipping the shrock is cheaper than the HF tube bumper. and i know for sure it will fit the body lift. even pricing on HF's site and not nisstec, the shrock is still cheaper. but we all know how shrock do... the best bumpers on the market but oh gobble that wait.
- Location
- Hainesville IL
yeah i have noticed this as well and i need to see how my current skids on the X look and will pair up with everything.