- Location
- Denver Adjacent
I can PM you his cell.
Terry's 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
- Thread starter TerryD
- Start date
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
And tell him i said what's up.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Got some used 265/75/16s installed today. Looks much better.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
- Location
- Covington, Va
Got the GenRight bumper installed. I still have to put the winch controls back on my winch and get it mounted up.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Got the winch back together and mounted up today. Took multiple trips to multiple hardware stores to get enough bolts to do it.
Gonna be shopping for a flat link. The angle on the recovery points puts the shackle is a weird bind.
Gonna be shopping for a flat link. The angle on the recovery points puts the shackle is a weird bind.
- Location
- Colorado Springs
No job is ever complete without at least 2-3 runs to the store for "stuff". 
Looks good, nice install.
Looks good, nice install.
Flat links FTW!
- Location
- Allen, Texas
I have an ACE Hardware, Auto Zone and Harbor Freight within walking distance of where I live. I'm not saying I've torn something apart in my driveway and had to hoof it to the parts/hardware store, but I'm not saying I havent either.No job is ever complete without at least 2-3 runs to the store for "stuff".
Looks good, nice install.
Until I bought this little gem for $250. Now I can buzz back and forth!
Looking like a big ass bear on a tiny bicycle in a circus.
Sorry, continue.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Tractor Supply wouldn't be bad but the 12 mile interstate trip to ACE would be perilous at best.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Hard top acquired! Ready for winter now.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Nice find! Those have to be rare AF!
- Location
- Covington, Va
Not as bad as I thought. This is an aftermarket one from Rally with slider windows with screens. Pretty skookum. Expensive though. $1500-2k for most. This was $1700 but $3k new so not too bad in my book.
Lazerrred
Bought an X
O my, looks like a fun project,
- Location
- Covington, Va
I feel a little sick but I just dropped $1400 on a full aFe exhaust system (including cats) for this thing.
My primary cats are throwing codes and I'm not 100% sure but I think they've come apart and stopped it up. Was trying to maintain 65mph on the interstate the other day I 3rd gear and gas pedal on the floor.
Either way, it needed cats and a better exhaust system so there. That's done.
Gonna change out the rusted to shiat oil pan while I have the head pipes out of the way.
My primary cats are throwing codes and I'm not 100% sure but I think they've come apart and stopped it up. Was trying to maintain 65mph on the interstate the other day I 3rd gear and gas pedal on the floor.
Either way, it needed cats and a better exhaust system so there. That's done.
Gonna change out the rusted to shiat oil pan while I have the head pipes out of the way.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Rear bumper arrived. Getting the main structure painted now. Will get the basket painted once this is done.
- Location
- Covington, Va
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Hell yeah! Looks good!
- Location
- Covington, Va
And just got my slider tracking number!
- Location
- Covington, Va
Got the rack installed. The extra space will be nice.
- Location
- Covington, Va
5.13s ordered.
My brakes are gonna be useless in 1st/4 Low.
My brakes are gonna be useless in 1st/4 Low.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Got my White Knuckle Offroad sliders installed today!
- Location
- Covington, Va
Put the hard top on tonight..... *sad*
- Location
- Covington, Va
I've been sick for three weeks and so far behind on projects I can't see daylight.
5.13s are here
2/3 exhaust system is here
Oil pan and gaskets are here.
Thinking about calling the shop and see what they'll charge to do the exhaust and oil pan once the rest arrives.
I'll get the gears done once we hit another lull in the kitchen work. But need to make some headway on it now that the drywall is done.
5.13s are here
2/3 exhaust system is here
Oil pan and gaskets are here.
Thinking about calling the shop and see what they'll charge to do the exhaust and oil pan once the rest arrives.
I'll get the gears done once we hit another lull in the kitchen work. But need to make some headway on it now that the drywall is done.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Installed the Toyota H4 headlight conversion. Super skookum lenses and a nice harness. It's designed for the FJ40 (and possibly the FJ60) and comes with relays and fuses.
Needs a little touch up on the harness and I need a better ground but it was a big upgrade in light output over the old sealed beams.
Needs a little touch up on the harness and I need a better ground but it was a big upgrade in light output over the old sealed beams.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Had the shop do my exhaust and oil pan and I'm glad I did. He had to pull the primary cats twice to trim the sockets for the header flange to get it to stop leaking.
But that's done! Sounds nice. Not as loud but much better tone than the old crappy pipes on there.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Regeared the Jeep this weekend. Started about 10am on Saturday and finished up about 4pm on Sunday. Took a while to get it figured out. Neither of us has ever done the Rubicon D44 with the external shims and the air lockers. We also wasted over an hour trying to get my pinion depth tool to work and never did get dependable repeatable measurements.
The carrier bearing both front and rear looked like this. My guess is it sat for several years with a lot of moisture in the axles and the bearings rusted.
Someone had replaced the DS rear wheel bearing at some point and they cut into the sealing surface when the took the old bearing off. That explains why the wheel seal is leaking. That cost $115 to learn and I'll still have to replace the whole shaft to get that leak stopped.
Sometime in its past, it lost a front u-joint and carved up the DS wheel bearing bolts and bent the ears on the inner shaft. It took some beating to get the ears straight and a new joint in. I'll have to replace the wheel bearing bolts as soon as I can get them ordered.
On the whole it went OK though. The new gears dramatically improved highway driving but it's highlighted a few other issues to address. Firstly, the drive shaft u-joints and front double cardan joint need replaced. The front starts shaking at about 65mph which is around 3500rpm for the front shaft with the 32s and 5.13s.
It was SO nice having my buddy's lift but he lacks some of the specialty tools I have and I didn't realize that so there was some struggling to make due on that front.
Hopefully this is my last time regearing this thing. If I blow up a R&P in the future, I'm gonna be powerful tempted to go 60-9 hybrid.
The carrier bearing both front and rear looked like this. My guess is it sat for several years with a lot of moisture in the axles and the bearings rusted.
Someone had replaced the DS rear wheel bearing at some point and they cut into the sealing surface when the took the old bearing off. That explains why the wheel seal is leaking. That cost $115 to learn and I'll still have to replace the whole shaft to get that leak stopped.
Sometime in its past, it lost a front u-joint and carved up the DS wheel bearing bolts and bent the ears on the inner shaft. It took some beating to get the ears straight and a new joint in. I'll have to replace the wheel bearing bolts as soon as I can get them ordered.
On the whole it went OK though. The new gears dramatically improved highway driving but it's highlighted a few other issues to address. Firstly, the drive shaft u-joints and front double cardan joint need replaced. The front starts shaking at about 65mph which is around 3500rpm for the front shaft with the 32s and 5.13s.
It was SO nice having my buddy's lift but he lacks some of the specialty tools I have and I didn't realize that so there was some struggling to make due on that front.
Hopefully this is my last time regearing this thing. If I blow up a R&P in the future, I'm gonna be powerful tempted to go 60-9 hybrid.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Ordered Ten Factory shafts for the back of the Jeep this morning. Was looking for the Revolution USA made shafts but they're out of stock across the board.
Also ordered new u-joints for the rear driveshaft and the parts to get the park brakes rebuilt.
*Northridge called and the TEN Factory stuff is out of stock. He recommended the Revolution Discovery shafts which are Indian made.
Why is it so hard to get parts right now?
Also ordered new u-joints for the rear driveshaft and the parts to get the park brakes rebuilt.
*Northridge called and the TEN Factory stuff is out of stock. He recommended the Revolution Discovery shafts which are Indian made.
Why is it so hard to get parts right now?
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- Location
- Covington, Va
A few weeks ago, the wife and I were out riding around after some flooding and the Jeep popped a CEL. Crankshaft Position Sensor code and random/multiple cylinder missfire.
Got it home and pulled the crank position sensor and the end was cracked and had been rubbing the tone ring on the flexplate. I installed the spare from my truck box, cleared the code and was good to go.
Well, Friday I was riding around town and it happened again. I pulled the sensor and it seemed OK. Inspected the wiring around it and added some new loom to protect the harness (WHEN DID EVERYONE STOP SELLING STANDARD SPLIT LOOM?!?) After not finding any glaring issues I just stuck it all back together and took a test drive.
Everything was going good for about 4 or 5 miles then it just died. Flashing CEL. It fired right up doing a rolling crank though. Pulled into a parking lot, cleared the code and took off again without issue since (4 days now).
It was suggested on the Jeep forum that a failing camshaft position sensor can cause a mess of weird signals and the primitive computer misinterprets what it's seeing as a crankshaft issue. With that in mind, I swapped out the cam sensor with my spare as well. The old one had been glued back together anyways so no big loss.
During all this, I got a chirping noise that I think is the Oil Pump Drive Assembly (OPDA) going out. It's the replacement for the distributor that drives the oil pump and has the tone ring for the camshaft position sensor. The original version sealed the oil off below the upper bearing and that bearing is known to fail. Crown makes an updated version with live oiling to the bearings so I ordered one of those to have on hand.
I also ordered the rear RockJock track bar. Slowly getting my lift kit together.
Got it home and pulled the crank position sensor and the end was cracked and had been rubbing the tone ring on the flexplate. I installed the spare from my truck box, cleared the code and was good to go.
Well, Friday I was riding around town and it happened again. I pulled the sensor and it seemed OK. Inspected the wiring around it and added some new loom to protect the harness (WHEN DID EVERYONE STOP SELLING STANDARD SPLIT LOOM?!?) After not finding any glaring issues I just stuck it all back together and took a test drive.
Everything was going good for about 4 or 5 miles then it just died. Flashing CEL. It fired right up doing a rolling crank though. Pulled into a parking lot, cleared the code and took off again without issue since (4 days now).
It was suggested on the Jeep forum that a failing camshaft position sensor can cause a mess of weird signals and the primitive computer misinterprets what it's seeing as a crankshaft issue. With that in mind, I swapped out the cam sensor with my spare as well. The old one had been glued back together anyways so no big loss.
During all this, I got a chirping noise that I think is the Oil Pump Drive Assembly (OPDA) going out. It's the replacement for the distributor that drives the oil pump and has the tone ring for the camshaft position sensor. The original version sealed the oil off below the upper bearing and that bearing is known to fail. Crown makes an updated version with live oiling to the bearings so I ordered one of those to have on hand.
I also ordered the rear RockJock track bar. Slowly getting my lift kit together.
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Harbor Freight has split loom and you can find it on Amazon too.
- Location
- Covington, Va
I had ordered a set of the Revolution Discovery shafts from Northridge4x4 and when they arrived, 4 of the studs were missing.
I installed the drivers side a few weeks ago to replace the shaft with the cut seal surface. Northridge4x4 got the replacement studs shipped and after a tour of the ENTIRE USA, they arrived.
Today I got the passenger shaft installed. The I started assembling the parking brakes from scratch. After getting the passenger side assembled wrong, pulling it apart and starting again, I realized that with the larger flange on the Revolution shafts, you have to pull the shaft to get the parking brakes assembled.
So, I pulled the shafts, assembled the brakes, and got it all working.
Next I replaced the damaged front wheel bearing bolts, greased everything and rotated the tires.
I installed the drivers side a few weeks ago to replace the shaft with the cut seal surface. Northridge4x4 got the replacement studs shipped and after a tour of the ENTIRE USA, they arrived.
Today I got the passenger shaft installed. The I started assembling the parking brakes from scratch. After getting the passenger side assembled wrong, pulling it apart and starting again, I realized that with the larger flange on the Revolution shafts, you have to pull the shaft to get the parking brakes assembled.
So, I pulled the shafts, assembled the brakes, and got it all working.
Next I replaced the damaged front wheel bearing bolts, greased everything and rotated the tires.
- Location
- Covington, Va
Took a 5 hour round trip last weekend to pick up the 1/4 beef I bought from a friend. On the way home, I had some rough idle issues. Watching the live data, the bank 1 (first 3 cylinders) STFT went way negative during the rough idle. Like -15 to -18%. Once the idle smoothed out, it returned to numbers that matched the bank 2 STFT.
I dumped a double dose of Seafoam in the tank this week and it's not making much difference. Today I was doing a visual inspection of everything and saw that the #3 injector is cracked. It's not leaking, just a split in the body.
Tonight I ordered a full set of the remanufactured Bosch 4 hole injectors that are supposed to be factory matched and have a lifetime warranty.
Slowly getting this thing in order.
I dumped a double dose of Seafoam in the tank this week and it's not making much difference. Today I was doing a visual inspection of everything and saw that the #3 injector is cracked. It's not leaking, just a split in the body.
Tonight I ordered a full set of the remanufactured Bosch 4 hole injectors that are supposed to be factory matched and have a lifetime warranty.
Slowly getting this thing in order.
sounds like its time for a 302 swap
- Location
- Covington, Va
Never.
No problem I’ll try again tomorrow
- Location
- Colorado Springs
The heck with 302... 390 for the win!!
- Location
- Covington, Va
Only place you swap a Ford motor INTO is a recycling bin so they can cast more LSs.
When the final ls dies it will get hauled to recycling by a 302
- Location
- Covington, Va
300 I6 maybe. The last 302 will split through the cam bearings and drop the lifters into the oil pan before then sugar.
Not worried, all that generally happens well after an ls eats its lifters and o ring on the oil pick up tube fails
no need to worry tho, I will share the miller lites I buy with the crusher money with you