Year: 2002 Make: Nissan (duh) Model: Xterra (double duh) Trim: title states XE/SE so who knows! Color: Super Black (with a splash of hot pink) Codename: Chance Pilot: Dani Co-pilot: Norman/Walter and Keith Tires/Wheels: 33" Nitto Mud Grapplers 305/70r16 33'' TreadWright Guard Dog M/Ts (since removed) 16 Pro Comp Rock Crawlers Suspension: PML 2 BL Bilstein 5100 Series 3 pack AAL Calmini UCA's Low Pro bump stops Armor: InSain Fabrication one off custom tube bumper. (winch to follow) Fully armored- SkidRow Skids EOE Sliders (cut to fit 35's) Electronics: Midland 75 4' Firestik coated Hot Pink Lighting: B&M Lo Pro Light bar 20' Alien LED Light Bar Other: Bedlined & Trimmed Plastics WeatherTech Floor Mats FlipHitch Mod Doodle Style Yakima Load Warrior roof rack Gobi Ladder Stock radiator replaced with 02' Super Charged. Safari Snorkel Custom camo head liner JVC navi with dvd and back up cam Steering: Calimini Steering Removed: Mud flaps Stock step rails Majority of lower front bumper Plastic door trim Stock headliner Many more mods to come.. stay tuned! Bought stock March 2nd 2011. March 2015 Merica!
Haha I did... but so far my build is nothing compared to everyone elses. With the new job will come new mods! Driving to work today with the new tires... wow. I def know where some of the new raise is going towards... GAS! Thanks!
HAHA I know I know! I was totally slacking. But I have finally come to the dark side.. Now where are my cookies?! :RAWRx2:
LOL Yeah, for every extra pound of rim/tire, its the same as adding ~ 3 lb of cargo as far as the power required to move it....and, that's times four, for each of the tires. So, if the rim/tire combo is only 1 lb more than before, that's like adding 12 lb to the rig weight. If the tire has a higher rolling resistance, that adds a lot of power needed to move too. My 33 x 13.5/16 Interco LTBs' were 59 lb each, my 305/70/16 BFG AT ko's were 61 lb each, pretty close....and bothere were 33" diameter....and they were both mounted on stock rims...but I got ~ 20 mpg on the AT ko's, and ~ 16 mpg on the LTB's....JUST because of the higher rolling resistance of the LTB's. My 305/70/16 BFG KM2's are also 59 lb....also 33", and on stock rims....and the mpg is closer to 18 mpg with them. So, as the TW's have a lot of weight, and, a high rolling resistance, plus, you might have heavier rims too...you will be best friends with the local petroleum purveyors.
Well, a little bit of cutting was done over the weekend. This will allow me to cut the wheel and turn and not worry about rubbing. I still have to flex her out to see what rubs when the tire is tucked into the wheel well. But for now, with it being freezing out, this will do. The line of cutting. The first cut. The final product. I thought enough was cut, however a few months later and a day in the Pine Barrens the wheels have been tucked so much that I realize that more has to be cut.
Used a angle grinder because I assumed a sawzall would be too choppy of a cut. Then took a little sander air tool (not sure what it's called and sanded down the rough edges and used a body hammer to roll the edge in. Finished it off with bedliner to the bare edge to prevent from rusting.
Thanks. It's crazy how while working on something makes you think of so many other mods you want to do. I'm thinking that after I do more cutting to fit the stuffing of the tire when its tucked up in there that i may take some C channel molding and wrap the edges from what i cut. Just to give it a clean look. It's the same molding that Ricel used to finish off his fliphitch and what i will also be using to finish my fliphitch.
I sweare that those tires transformed that thing into the root of all Bad A**! Coming along nicely Trout!
Thanks Guys! :-D Once i find the perfect black and pink checkered pattern the headliner will be getting a make over. I have the total sag going and i found someone to do it for $40 and if i want the doors done i can add another $75.
Lookin good. Keep an eye out for steering stuff. That should be next on your list. Those 33's will kill stock steering.
thanks and yes 2in. I pieced it together myself and with the help of Hoagie and CrashDan installed it.
Sorry for the stupid question, I went back and reread your list of mods, I guess that tire and wheel combo seems very tall for some reason in your pictures. Off topic: I have to laugh at your stick people everytime I see it, it reminds me of my wife and I.
Well this weekend I FINALLY replaced my heater core. And to be quite honest... it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. My core was still good, but seeing as though NO ONE sells the hard plastic tubes that connect from the core and run thru the firewall I had no choice but to buy a whole new core. I did keep my old core and the lower of the two hard plastics tubes, incase anyone is to need these later on down the line. I wasn't sure why there was cause to take out the entire dash, but I then realized while doing the break down... there are two bolts that are NOT accessable without taking the entire dash out. I'll try to break down the pics for ya, sorry I didnt take one with each step but.. hey it's taking apart the dash.. it's TONS of screws. LoL Mind you I already had my core bypassed before starting this. Remove glove box Remove center colsole, steering column plastic, trim for radio, heater controls, the radio, etc. I removed two metal brackets that are behind the plastic trim as well. Unattach the A/C hoses from the engine side of the fire wall. Be mindful to loosen the cap for the antifreeze on the rad before loosening the connectors. If you don't do this you will have a lovey mist of antifreeze spew all over your engine. I can see the witch of a heater core! ::Insert many curse words sworn at the core:: I have already removed the black box that contains the AC unit. *sorry for the blurry shot* The center black unit is what you will be removing. Driver side shot... you can thank the boyfriend for it being a crappy picture. After I went Office Space on the old core are retreived it back from the other side of the front yard. The old core gets the finger. The whole core had to be replaced because of this little break in the heater core tube that was not even an inch of tubing. You can't see it but I can feel it! She's blowing hot!!! However, the blower only works on 3 and 4. I have to play around with the blower cable to get it to go back to the original setting.
Outstanding Doodle. My heater core starts to leak I'm gonna chuck in 5 gallons of gasoline and a road flare. :happy:
Lmao.. Its odd I didn't see it as being a hassle at all. It was a nice day and it was nice spending time with the bf doing something we both enjoy. oddly enough I didn't get frustrated once the whole day. Good thing is, now if someone else.locally goes I can help lol
You going to write up an independent how to on this doodle? Sent from the Nighthog mobile command unit.
Welp.. Xterra Mike was correct... Seems as though just the rear is shot but why do only one right?! RIGHT! That's what I thought, so i'll replace both this weekend. While i'm at it i think i may pick up some wheel bearings to have on hand as well. Sounds like the front passenger may be going. But instead of tearing it all apart i'm going to do the u-joints first and then see if the noise goes away when i turn left. lol God I need a garage with heat!
Finally had a nice enough weekend to change out my u-joints. First off I couldn't get the drive shaft out after finally getting it out I had to take all the darn tootin clips out of the u-joints. The biotch to follow that was actually getting the joints out. Rented a press... which didnt do jack! I ended up driving my BFs lexis over to my friends shop and taking a torch to to the u-joints. The easiest thing was to just melt them away. 5 mins of a nice hot flame and Bam! old joints are now a pile of melted metal. *Warning- the grease in them will pop and can land on skin- Thankfully I was wearing gloves* The new u-joints are now in and running smooth as butter! And a extra bonus, realizing that i bought grease-able u-joints!