SAS SUA swap gathered info

R

ruination fan

Test Drive
Location
Knoxville, TN
Seems like there is a lot spread out info on SUA swaps. I was thinking maybe everyone that has done SUA could post up their swap info? Axle used, springs used, shocks used, Pitman arm used, steering set up, driveshaft, etc.... Maybe we can gather this info in one thread for everyone to find and know it would help me as I am gathering all the necessary parts to complete a SUA swap using a waggy axle. I am looking to use:

Axle: '88 Grand wagoneer D44
Springs: Rancho RS44044 and Bonney kit
Pitman arm: ??
Steering: diy crossover kit from complete offroad
Shock towers: tube shock hoops
Driveshaft: hopefully stock like Xterror04
Shocks: bilstein 33-185552 10" travel
 
maillet282

maillet282

If you bleeding, Imma fix you
Moderator
Location
Saguenay quebec Canada
not completely sure but I think your using the wrong acronym in your thread.

SUA means Spring Under Axle.

I think your looking for information to complete a SAS ( Solid Axle Swap) for the front end.
 
Jwelch

Jwelch

Bought an X
Location
Michigan
I just finished a SUA solid axle swap. I have yet to modify the transmission crossmember but I plan to run the stock X driveshaft. Once I removed the differential side flange it bolts right up to a 1310 yoke no problem. The only thing that could be an issue is if you push the axle forward it might need to be extended which will more than likely be the case for my build. The axle I got already had a high steer kit on it so I am running that to allow a flat draglink and I will have plenty of space to get over 4" of bump before running into issues with the steering contacting the frame. This allows me to have little to no bump steer. In your case with the kit you listed I would see no issue running it with the stock pitman arm(You will have to either ream out the pitman arm to the taper of the TRE's or use a tapered sleeve) you will just have a greater drag link angle and thus more bump steer, to mitigate this as much as possible I would make sure to run the tie rod over the knuckle to keep the angle as shallow as possible. Your height will then be your variable changing your angle. Many people in the jeep world run with a bit of an angle but the flatter the better. I will be doing a write up on what I did for the SUA leaf spring SAS in the next week or two as I have not been able to find any good photos of a leaf spring SAS on an X.
 
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Jwelch

Jwelch

Bought an X
Location
Michigan
The stock x driveshaft is not very useable unless you are running a high pinion front axle, it is not only to short for the amount droop you will have but it also binds immensely. I ended up getting a Jeep xj front double cardan driveshaft, and then added the precision 627 flange. This is fairly close to the Nissan bolt pattern on the t-case so I made a 1/2" aluminum adapter on a Bridgeport mill that was tapped and it has worked well. Link to a write up doing this http://nissannut.com/projects/Driveshaft/
For hangers for with the booney motor sports kit, I didn't to try and cut cost and it definitely just made it take way longer as I ended up needing to move my front hangers down to fix the pinion angle/angle the leaf springs were at. For brake lines I've been pleased with the 4x4parts extended brake line kit, the front brake lines actually fit the single piston Chevy calipers that were on many Dana 44's. You will definitely want to do the master cylinder upgrade as the pedal goes to the floor. Expect 2 times as long to get it right.
 
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