Replace Battery Terminals, Battery & Alternator

Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
Another one of my little projects for the truck. I want to upgrade my battery terminals for extra space to connect stuff. I plan to install a winch in the next six months (when my front bumper arrives), and a CB. Need to get better stereo and speakers as well, that means amp. I see Rugged Rocks has some nice terminals. Any other recommendations? I would like to replace the connectors on the cables as well. Maybe the whole cable? They look pretty worn. Not a wiring guy, have no idea how to install new cables but it is doable yes? I want a nice strong battery as well, Optima Red Top? I plan on upgrading the alternator too and will keep the old one as a spare. Anyone have a link to a better alternator?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I used marine terminals.


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You have to drill out the fusible link to 3/8 and crimp a ring on the ground after cutting off the OE battery terminal but it works great.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
I used a set of th marine hydra 3 way terminals (which seem to be discontinued maybe), after seeing @RM975 post about them on here. I replaced my negative cable with on from batterycablesusa - I forget the size but I just barely got it to fit through the sensor thing. I have the cables and fuse and such to finish the positive side in one of my backlog piles/crates of stuff to do. For now I just did a mini extension to fit onto the terminal.

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Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
I like those 3 way terminals. I’ll try to find something similar. Also like the new battery cable, definitely want to do that and the crimped rings too.
 

Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
I used a set of th marine hydra 3 way terminals (which seem to be discontinued maybe), after seeing @RM975 post about them on here. I replaced my negative cable with on from batterycablesusa - I forget the size but I just barely got it to fit through the sensor thing. I have the cables and fuse and such to finish the positive side in one of my backlog piles/crates of stuff to do. For now I just did a mini extension to fit onto the terminal.

View attachment 19837
Where does the negative cable connect after passing through the sensor? Does it have a ring on the other end as well? Any idea how long the cable is?
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Where does the negative cable connect after passing through the sensor? Does it have a ring on the other end as well? Any idea how long the cable is?

Its a ring on the other end, bolted to the engine block kind of below where the throttle body is if I recall correctly. Easier to access with the battery out. I looked up my order, and I used 2awg, 14” long. Could have been maybe an inch shorter.
 

Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
Its a ring on the other end, bolted to the engine block kind of below where the throttle body is if I recall correctly. Easier to access with the battery out. I looked up my order, and I used 2awg, 14” long. Could have been maybe an inch shorter.
Perfect, thanks so much.
 

XterraRising

Need Bigger Tires
Supporting Member
Location
Utah
Those are nice. I need the fusible link riser correct?

I didn’t use the riser that came with mine. I made a short spacer that was high enough to allow the fusible link to clear and give me the clearance I needed to run my inverter cable.

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Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
My Rugged Rocks terminals showed up today, they are nice. Was going to install them and the new negative battery cable, but I don’t know how to get the new cable through the voltage sensor? I bought a cable with rings on each end, I don’t think the ring will fit through the sensor.

@Zack. were you able to fit the ring through the sensor? I bought the 14” cable you mentioned and had an M8 size ring added to both ends. Before I cut the old cable to get it out, want to make sure I can get the new one in. Also, I noticed the end connected to the engine is bent at 90 degrees. Can I bend the end on my new cable to match without damaging it? Or do I just install it as is?
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
I had one end of the cable with no ring on it, then I worked it into the hole carefully with a little bit of spray lubricant (I forget which one, but probably silicone) to finagle it to the right spot. Then i crimped the ring onto that end. I actually unbolted the sensor piece so I could do it all on the week bench. I believe I used a straight ring on the terminal and just angled it away from anything.
 

Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
Dang. I should have asked that question before ordering the cable. Glad I checked before ripping out the old one. I guess I can pull the ring off one end then re-crimp a new one. It’s such a nice looking cable, I don’t want to tear it up. I’ll hide my hack job at the engine end and put the nice end on the terminal.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
Sorry, I should have given more detail on that in the first place. Now that I think about it, I did the same thing and bought the cable with rings on both ends, and had to cut one end of as well.
 

Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
Another question. The old battery cable was ground at the base of the voltage sensor bracket and again on the engine block. With the ne cable I grounded only to the engine block. Will this cause problems?

I ask because I’ve had a couple small gremlins since replacing the terminals and cable. A few times I have started the truck and the 4wd light is on. It goes away on the next startup.

Just now my truck wouldn’t start. It kept turning over but no go. Plugged in the computer and got no codes. Ran a battery test, which needs to have a startup to complete. Cranked it for about 15 seconds and it started, the test said bad battery. Ran an alternator test, no issue.

Turned it off and ran both tests again. This time it said battery was good and again alternator was fine.

Any ideas?
 

Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
Another question. The old battery cable was ground at the base of the voltage sensor bracket and again on the engine block. With the ne cable I grounded only to the engine block. Will this cause problems?

I ask because I’ve had a couple small gremlins since replacing the terminals and cable. A few times I have started the truck and the 4wd light is on. It goes away on the next startup.

Just now my truck wouldn’t start. It kept turning over but no go. Plugged in the computer and got no codes. Ran a battery test, which needs to have a startup to complete. Cranked it for about 15 seconds and it started, the test said bad battery. Ran an alternator test, no issue.

Turned it off and ran both tests again. This time it said battery was good and again alternator was fine.

Any ideas?

Bumping this question. I replaced the battery last week. Just had trouble starting again. It sat yesterday, the rest of the week I drove daily.

Is this something from replacing the negative cable? Maybe my starter is going or time for new plugs?
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I’m not experienced with this but I think it has to be ground to the sensor because that is what tells the alternator how much juice it needs to put out. Without that maybe it’s not charging correctly? Lots of people here I think would actually know.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Bumping this question. I replaced the battery last week. Just had trouble starting again. It sat yesterday, the rest of the week I drove daily.

Is this something from replacing the negative cable? Maybe my starter is going or time for new plugs?
The ground near the sensor is the main body ground. Then the engine ground is for the drive train which is mostly isolated from ground by the mounts.

You need to add a cable from where it was attached to the sensor to the engine OR split your new cable where you can then reterminate them both and connect the two new ends where the ground was near the sensor.

It's early and I'm on one cup of coffee so I hope that made decent sense.
 

Gen X

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Ashburn, VA
The ground near the sensor is the main body ground. Then the engine ground is for the drive train which is mostly isolated from ground by the mounts.

You need to add a cable from where it was attached to the sensor to the engine OR split your new cable where you can then reterminate them both and connect the two new ends where the ground was near the sensor.

It's early and I'm on one cup of coffee so I hope that made decent sense.

Thanks TerryD, makes perfect sense and what I was thinking needed to be done. I’m going to order another cable. I’ll ground the original replacement cable to the sensor mount and then from there to engine block with the new cable.
 

Zack.

Has been dubbed Arnold
Supporting Member
Location
Livermore, CA
That’s weird, I haven’t had any issue without the ground by the sensor. I did add a larger ground wire for the ground that goes block to body on the other side (under air box), I wonder if that might have helped it? Either way, adding another cable to my list as well to be safe.
 
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