Reaver's 03 XE Build thread!

xEndlessfight503x

Bought an X
So after this last trip, I'm wondering about rear traction devices (I've got a lokka for the front, just haven't had it put in yet). I'm wondering if an LSD axle out of an earlier model X would work well enough for my needs. My purpose of this rig isn't to rock crawl, but long distance remote camping (we're planning a 2500 mile trip for next year). Isn't the break away torque of the pre-02 lsd axles 180-ft lbs or something like that? Would that plus the front locker be sufficient for most uses? I'm trying to avoid spending 1800 or so on installing a rear ARB locker if I don't REALLY need it.

Plans for next year are full under armor, complete the 3" lift, shocks and tires. Maybe an upgraded LSD in the rear if it's as simple as an axle swap.



Honestly, I would try to source a LSD unit from a pathfinder or, if you you come across an Xterra unit you can add clutch packs and shims to make it useful. I have a late LSD in my truck and its horrendously useless.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I've got the stock 03 lsd, and I agree. Isn't the spline count different from the 1st and 2nd gen pathy? Or does that not matter?
 

xEndlessfight503x

Bought an X
I've got the stock 03 lsd, and I agree. Isn't the spline count different from the 1st and 2nd gen pathy? Or does that not matter?


You are correct, but you can swap the carrier and it works out. The spline count doesn't matter at that point, if i recall correctly.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Honestly, I've got the front Lokka, so once I get that put in, I'll drive it for a while and see if I feel that I even need the rear locker. If I do, I'd probably just do the ARB, as the full swap wouldn't really save me that much money anyways.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
So I think I've finalized the design of my storage system.

Storage-System-Design.png


The idea is to have essentially three drawers in the back (as you can see). The hatch on the passenger side is an access panel for my auxillary electrical system. The extension will be removable, without removing the rear drawers. The extension will be two pieces. The bottom drawer will be enclosed in it's own box. My plan is to use the passenger rear seat bolts to anchor it down. The upper drawer is part of the extension, which will be supported by the lower drawer box. The only other part I'm not sure of is the area between the electrical hatch, and the part above the drawer. I want that to be a cubby for things that don't get accessed often. The part I'm not sure about is how best to support the hatch that I would build, and maintain strength to be able to sleep on it.

I'm also still trying to decide on where to put my additional 12v and usb ports, and my volt meter. I'll also need to add at least two switches. I'm actually thinking a box on the driver's side "wing" might be a good solution.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
So, I'm trying to figure out what I want to do for the lift. There's always the option of an SAS. It would be rad, but for the stuff I do, an SAS isn't at all necessary. I'm building a reliable, long distance exploration rig, not a rock buggy.

I've been thinking about whether I want to go body lift, suspension lift, PML, and what combination of the above would work best.

Not even considering cost factors here, here's where my brain is at right now....

Body lift + 32's = profit.

I could do a 2" body lift, add a tiny bit of crank to the torsion bars, and call it a day. There are a couple of advantages to this, in my eyes. Would definitely allow room for 32's (MAYBE 33's with some trimming). Doesn't raise the COG much, and maintains suspension travel, since I'm not lifting by cranking the torsion bars. It's also cheaper than a suspension lift (doesn't require longer shocks, UCAs, or add any more wear on suspension components).
PML + 32's

I could go full PML + 32's. This would ultimately look the same from the outside, and would give me more static clearance. However, it would limit front suspension travel, since it involves cranking the torsion bars. It also adds a touch more wear on suspension and steering components.
3" Suspension lift + 32's

I could go full suspension lift. This is the most expensive route, as it requires new shocks, etc, and still could possibly wear parts faster as well.
Right now, based on the trips I've done in the rig so far, I'm leaning heavily towards doing just the body lift, and putting 32's on the rig. Suspension travel is pretty important for the places I've been going, and so far, I've not had an issue with clearance. This combo would give me room for larger tires (which means a little more clearance), and maintain that all important suspension travel and reliability I'm looking for.

If, in the future, I find that I need even more clearance, then it's suspension lift, and I've already done the body lift, so I can move to 33's.

What are your thoughts here? I'd really like some input from some of you folks.
 

xEndlessfight503x

Bought an X
Personally, I hate body lifts but If you are going cheap it will be a viable option. I was happy I went 3" SL but I also use my truck in a way different manor. That being said, It was nice to be able to drive like stock with 35s and just a 3" SL on the fire roads and hit the rock gardens on the way back.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Personally, I hate body lifts but If you are going cheap it will be a viable option. I was happy I went 3" SL but I also use my truck in a way different manor. That being said, It was nice to be able to drive like stock with 35s and just a 3" SL on the fire roads and hit the rock gardens on the way back.

It's not so much a matter of cheap per se, but more of what would work best for what I need right now. A suspension lift is certainly on the table.
 

HolyGhost

First Fill-Up (of many)
I'll throw out my 2 cents here. I really like the PML and 32's I am running the calmini arms but I don't have the lift in the rear for the full 3" lift. I am running stock shocks too so my travel is limited however it does everything I need it to do.

I think it's the perfect height for a daily adventure rig and I don't see myself replacing the rear springs for an extra 1.5" but I do want longer shocks so I can get more drop at the front.

I would like to go SAS eventually but I like my ride height so much I don't want to ruin it by going SAS. Also if you can find the 17" wheels you can get jeep rubicon tires super cheap used. Those guys think they need 35's for a dirt road.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
The more I think about this, the more I think I'll be happy with a PML plus 32's. I've already got the rear shackle, but my leaves have sagged a bit already, hence I'm thinking I just spring for new leaves.

Mine rarely gets dailied (though I do drive it just because I love it so much), so I'm less concerned there.

I'm not sure I want to give up an inch of sidewall, but that's definitely an option. I'll have to put some thought into that one. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

BCXterra

Bought an X
I’m on 32’s with a pml and 2” and after running it lots this past year, have been very happy with it. Cranking in the front gave me just that little bit of extra room in the front to avoid a harsh ride and hitting bump stops while travelling at speed on FSR’s.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
We've decided that once we get some stuff paid off, we're going to pick up an offroad trailer for camping. That's a few years out though.

I was talking to my buddy over the weekend, and he's planning on going to 37s on his Rubicon, so I **MAY** go the 17in rim / jeep tire route. His KO2s have tons of tread left, and I could probably get them for cheap.

I can't wait to do my drawers. It takes us an hour to pack up the gear, and we have to play jenga to get it all in.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Well, I finally got around to building the drawer carcass, and getting all the electrical, water pump, and other various goodies built and installed.

20201112-162825.jpg


20201112-162748.jpg
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Not much in the way of updates. I've simply been enjoying and using the X.

That being said, she's finally got some new shoes!

IMG-20211127-124437.jpg


IMG-20211127-124450.jpg

She's now sitting on a set of 265/75r16 Kenda Klever At2s in load E.

This should seriously help with my traction. I wasn't originally going to go with E range tires, but they were only $3 more per tire than the non E range tires.

If these tires are half as good as I hear, I will be very happy with them.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
A few months ago I replaced the chincey 6 switch plastic panel I put in last year with a metal 4 switch box with a dual usb fast charge/voltmeter combo. The switches were all wired up during the initial install. This was finished this morning.

IMG-20220116-130556.jpg


It's wired up so that it turns on when the ignition is on, and off when the key is off. I mostly wanted the USB ports, but this will be handy for seeing voltages while driving, as the X doesn't have any sort of battery meter in it.
 

diabetiXtwo

Test Drive
Location
New Jersey
I realized I never posted photos of the finished build! Still need to paint it, but I've gotta wait for it to warm up just a bit more.

20201220-092001.jpg


20201220-092021.jpg


Super happy with how this turned out!

Not much in the way of updates. I've simply been enjoying and using the X.

That being said, she's finally got some new shoes!

IMG-20211127-124437.jpg


IMG-20211127-124450.jpg

She's now sitting on a set of 265/75r16 Kenda Klever At2s in load E.

This should seriously help with my traction. I wasn't originally going to go with E range tires, but they were only $3 more per tire than the non E range tires.

If these tires are half as good as I hear, I will be very happy with them.
First thing. Build me that drawer system. :) Joking aside can you show me how you mounted your awning to the rack? I wanted to put mine on tomorrow figured you can save me some time from figuring it out. :)
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
First thing. Build me that drawer system. :) Joking aside can you show me how you mounted your awning to the rack? I wanted to put mine on tomorrow figured you can save me some time from figuring it out. :)
Haha. I found the original plans on the forums here.

Check this thread out:

I modified it a bit, using 1x8s for the vertical supports, and making one of the drawers a bit more shallow to allow for the slide out table.

The awning is mounted using arbs brackets. They're clamped to the rack bars using exhaust clamps. I had to drill an additional hole in the brackets, but they've held just fine.

I'll take some pictures tomorrow if I remember.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
So the last couple of months I've been blowing taillight fuses. When I wired up the switch panel, I used spade connectors to make it so that I could somewhat easily remove it. In doing so, I must have crossed a wire somewhere.

I took the whole thing out, and decided to wire it up using DT connectors.

I finished making the connectors for the switches last night.

IMG-20220204-064438.jpg


So much cleaner that what I was doing before. Yes, there are some 18ga wires in there. I'm only pushing 1 amp to the switches, and back again to the relays, so 18ga will work fine (I was using ethernet cables before, and it worked fine).

The connectors say that are for 14-18ga wire, but I can fit 12ga through there no problem. Solid contacts are where it's at. I'm pulling the relay box tonight, and wiring that up with a DT connector for the relays. I only need to run 6 wires to the back, but there's 8 at the box, as one is power for the usb/volt meter (green) and one is illumination for the switches (controlled via dash lights - yellow).
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
So, taillights and dash lights are working again. Checked my tail lights yesterday to make sure the led bulbs were the correct direction.

I have one wire that seems to have a continuity problem, but I don't have a multimeter with a continuity feature yet to figure out where it is. I only have two lights at the moment, so for now, I just swapped which Relays control which lights until get a multimeter with a continuity function.

Now, my plans for Gamora this year are:

1. Swap the starter battery with 100Ah rv dual purpose battery.

2. Cut the fridge power cable, and make it so I can hardwire it.

3. Get a full size spare (have 265/70r16 junkyard spare)

4. Coastal Offroad front bumper?

5. Manual hubs

6. Have lokka installed
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I figured out why I wasn't getting the relay to trigger with the problematic switch. Turns out the spade connecter had dropped out of its holder, and want touching the terminal on the relay. Reseated the connector, and everything works again!

I've noticed the rear tends to squat when the vehicle is loaded, so I'm debating either adjusting my shackles, or putting in an AAL.

I'm also going to switch to two round Spotlights on the bumper, and replace the light bar up top, as it's pretty much useless (it was free, but my 20' nilight on the front is much brighter).

Waiting on an auxbeam switch box for the frontier to get here, and I'm planning on moving the 20" bar over to that.

I also added a shower tent to the passenger side for the wife and kid to have a place to do a potty.

I've got some parts in the bin that I've still not installed. I'm not sure when I'll get around to doing the following, as I'm focused on trying to get the trailer to a usable state.

Lokka
Manual Hubs
180A Mean Green Alternator
HD tie rod adjusters

Fridge power cable modded to allow both hardwire to the aux fuse block, as well as to standard 12v socket, and a 5mm dc plug. I used DTP connectors for this. These are my new favorite connectors.

Full size spare purchased and delivered on Monday. These damn Kendas were 160 each when I originally bought them. The spare was 210! Good thing I only needed one.

Trying to source myself a set of Calmini Ucas from @kirk

I also have a hitch receiver from my sister that was in the back of the 04 she bought, and had no intention of using.

That's about all. Overall, I'm very happy with how the X is currently sitting.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I've managed to knock a few things off the list for Gamora.

I now have a full size spare tire. It's not actually mounted yet, but it's at the house. I need to take it in to get it mounted/balanced, and then put it on the tire carrier.

I've also got it all set up to hardwire the fridge. I made a pigtail that hooks into the fuse block, and has a DTP connector on one end. I cut the main power cable for the fridge, and wired some more DTP connectors in. This way, I can hardwire it by plugging it directly into the fuse block in the X, or, I can put the cig plug back on it, and run it off of any 12v cig plug socket.

Now, I know I'm going to need shocks in the next 12 months, and I just stumbled across these on AC's site:


My question is, what is the difference between these, the 4600's, and the 5100's? Are they all basically the same shock, but with different valve tuning?

For $250 for all four corners, I'm inclined to not really care that much, and to just order them. It's about half the cost of the 5100's.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I've managed to knock a few things off the list for Gamora.

I now have a full size spare tire. It's not actually mounted yet, but it's at the house. I need to take it in to get it mounted/balanced, and then put it on the tire carrier.

I've also got it all set up to hardwire the fridge. I made a pigtail that hooks into the fuse block, and has a DTP connector on one end. I cut the main power cable for the fridge, and wired some more DTP connectors in. This way, I can hardwire it by plugging it directly into the fuse block in the X, or, I can put the cig plug back on it, and run it off of any 12v cig plug socket.

Now, I know I'm going to need shocks in the next 12 months, and I just stumbled across these on AC's site:


My question is, what is the difference between these, the 4600's, and the 5100's? Are they all basically the same shock, but with different valve tuning?

For $250 for all four corners, I'm inclined to not really care that much, and to just order them. It's about half the cost of the 5100's.
I'm not sure what those NISMO socks actually are but the 4600 and 5100s just have different valving with the 5100 valved for lifted trucks. That's from the mouth of a Bilstein rep when I was researching shocks for my Xterra.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I'm not sure what those NISMO socks actually are but the 4600 and 5100s just have different valving with the 5100 valved for lifted trucks. That's from the mouth of a Bilstein rep when I was researching shocks for my Xterra.
I figure it's probably the same body as the 4600/5100,but with custom Nismo spec'd valving. I figure for half the cost of the 5100s, maybe it's worth a shot?
 

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
I finally git around to looking at the door sticker...

Turns out my xterra is one of those apparently rare N/A trucks with 4.9 gears.

Not that this changes any of my build plans, but that's good to know.
had no idea this was rare :/
 
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