Reaver's 03 XE Build thread!

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
If you suspect steering, get under it and have somebody turn the wheel back and forth. Look for play in the center link, idler arm, and tie rods.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
OK, it's definitely not the tie rods. It honestly sounds like somethings hitting, so I'm wondering if it the sway bar. We couldn't get it to reproduce the problem after work today.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Weird. Could be swap bar. If you pass that, we're on to control arms and ball joints. Then we've covered the entire front end.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Yeah, didn't notice any play in the tie rods. I couldn't really see the center link, so I'm not ruling it out yet. I doubt it's control arms, as it's not related to suspension cycling (at least I think), but only does it on sharp turns. Ball joints are not out of the question though.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Yeah, I need to put the thing up on jackstands, and start going through it. If only I had a covered area to work in. :(

Also, if it was a wheel bearing, wouldn't that make a more rhythmic sound?
 
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reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Ok, so I'm getting ready to order the parts and materials needed to fabricate the rear bumper. I'm driving the X for another week and a half, then she'll get parked for a while, so I can start building it.

All told, I think the bumper parts will cost me about $250 out the gate. I'm planning on having a single jerry can mount (i'll be carrying two 8gal rotopax on the roof), and a 5lb propane tank, as well as possibly some traction boards on the carrier.

I'm also planning on doing a full steering upgrade. Grassroots centerlink, HD tie rod adjusters, and new inner and out tie rods. I'm certainly open to suggestions on which tie rod ends to get!
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Ok, so I'm getting ready to order the parts and materials needed to fabricate the rear bumper. I'm driving the X for another week and a half, then she'll get parked for a while, so I can start building it.

All told, I think the bumper parts will cost me about $250 out the gate. I'm planning on having a single jerry can mount (i'll be carrying two 8gal rotopax on the roof), and a 5lb propane tank, as well as possibly some traction boards on the carrier.

I'm also planning on doing a full steering upgrade. Grassroots centerlink, HD tie rod adjusters, and new inner and out tie rods. I'm certainly open to suggestions on which tie rod ends to get!

Sounds awesome! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with there!
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Thanks! The other big project is getting my storage system and sleeping platform sorted out by spring. I've gotta keep it modular, as I will periodically need to use the back seats, but don't want to have to remove the platform to do it. I'm thinking a heavy duty hinges that will allow me to fold it back.
 
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reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I finally git around to looking at the door sticker...

Turns out my xterra is one of those apparently rare N/A trucks with 4.9 gears.

Not that this changes any of my build plans, but that's good to know.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Mines an auto.

Also, planning on getting started building the bumper, installing shackles, and doing a PML, building a roof rack similar to the dephep rack, and building sliders after the holidays. I just got a $3/hr raise at work, so things should progress pretty quickly.

I'm also planning on doing the IAB, and tie rods when I do the lift. Followed by an alignment, and new tires.
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Mines an auto.

Also, planning on getting started building the bumper, installing shackles, and doing a PML, building a roof rack similar to the dephep rack, and building sliders after the holidays. I just got a $3/hr raise at work, so things should progress pretty quickly.

I'm also planning on doing the IAB, and tie rods when I do the lift. Followed by an alignment, and new tires.
Nice! Autos with the 4.9s are rare.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I'm not planning on moving from the 265/75r16s I'm currently running, I'm not really sure what advantage the 4.9 gears give me, but I'll take that it's a rare config!
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
OK. Did my first off road day trip with the xterra today.

First impressions are...... Holy crap. This thing is an animal.

The first leg of the trip was along a winding washboard road along the edge of a reservoir. I had to go slow due to pretty low traction, and a very steep drop-off. I think the low traction is due to tires.

Once we got of that, and started climbing, it was ruts, and forest service roads. I took one picture at the top when we reached the fire tower. 7500 foot elevation.

On the way back down, we took a detour with a steep climb. This road was articulation city. I'm 99% sure I've got an LSD, since the xterra just kept climbing. And climbing. And climbing.

20191116_121137.jpg
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I'm getting ready to start ordering parts for the build. Ordering adjustable shackles, IAB and HD Tie rod adjusters after next week.

I'm also thinking about tires. I can't decide if I want to go with 265/75r16s or 235/80r16. Either way, they're both an inch taller than the 265/70r16 tires I have now.

Are there advantages to running a narrower tire?
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Depends on who you ask. I'd go with the more readily available option for ease of replacing a damaged tire while traveling.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Hmmm.... Well, I plan on carrying a spare and a tire repair kit, but that's definitely a good point. Now, the question is
.... Which one is more common? I'd venture to guess that the 265 is the more common size.
 

BCXterra

Bought an X
I'm getting ready to start ordering parts for the build. Ordering adjustable shackles, IAB and HD Tie rod adjusters after next week.

I'm also thinking about tires. I can't decide if I want to go with 265/75r16s or 235/80r16. Either way, they're both an inch taller than the 265/70r16 tires I have now.

Are there advantages to running a narrower tire?
I used to run 33x9.5 on my ‘88 4Runner. It was a great setup. I found it worked really well on moderate to packed snow conditions and was easy to manage when on rough rutted ground. A little easier on steering components too.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Hmmm.... Well, I plan on carrying a spare and a tire repair kit, but that's definitely a good point. Now, the question is
.... Which one is more common? I'd venture to guess that the 265 is the more common size.
A spare works good to get you off the trail but if you're in for a week's wheeling and cut down a tire on day 2, you're without a spare for the remainder of the time.

I do a 5 tire rotation so I want all mine to match. If I was running a 255/85 and had to replace one with a 285 on a trip because I couldn't find my preferred brand in 255, it'd wreck my maintenance plan and be a little bit of a waste of money in my mind.

But it all depends on how you feel about the situation...
 

meisanerd

Need Bigger Tires
I run the 255s on mine. Since it is more daily driver than trail rig, the extra weight of the 285s was a negative in my book. It is harder to find these tires, though, so I can see the argument against them for trail usage. I think a lot of it comes down to preference and vehicle purpose.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I run the 255s on mine. Since it is more daily driver than trail rig, the extra weight of the 285s was a negative in my book. It is harder to find these tires, though, so I can see the argument against them for trail usage. I think a lot of it comes down to preference and vehicle purpose.

It's going to be a camping /overland rig. I wanna shoot for the best mpg/capability compromise I can get (knowing full well mpg is not great on the 3.3l v6). 33's/285's aren't in the cards at this time. 265s would be easier to source on a trip, but I can't negate the weight savings of the 235s. I'm kind of torn atm.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
235/85/16 has the advantage of being a very popular dually truck tire so you are probably not going to have an issue sourcing them the way you would a 255/85.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
OK, question. Does a bad knock sensor on a naturally aspirated motor cause it to run a bit rich? I've had a p0328 code since I bought it, but it never set the SES light off. Tonight it did, and it has a p0430 for catalyst efficiency below threshold. Runs fine, but I'm assuming I'll need to replace both the kock sensor, and the catalytic converter? Or is it more likely to just be the sensor?
 

HolyGhost

First Fill-Up (of many)
OK, question. Does a bad knock sensor on a naturally aspirated motor cause it to run a bit rich? I've had a p0328 code since I bought it, but it never set the SES light off. Tonight it did, and it has a p0430 for catalyst efficiency below threshold. Runs fine, but I'm assuming I'll need to replace both the kock sensor, and the catalytic converter? Or is it more likely to just be the sensor?


I have had my knock sensor code since I bought my X in 2011 I never replaced it and didn't have any codes from the cat's. The knock sensor code supposedly puts the X in limp mode and pulls timing causing a decrease in MPG. I would just leave the knock sensor as it's hard to get to under the lower intake manifold.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
I have had my knock sensor code since I bought my X in 2011 I never replaced it and didn't have any codes from the cat's. The knock sensor code supposedly puts the X in limp mode and pulls timing causing a decrease in MPG. I would just leave the knock sensor as it's hard to get to under the lower intake manifold.

When I asked if it was likely the sensor, I meant an o2 sensor. Probably should clarified that.
 

reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Ok, update on the sensor. I cleared the code, and it's not come back yet, which leads me to believe that I do have a sensor beginning to go out. I'm not terribly concerned at this point.

Another update - I found a thread on thenewx.org by surf and snow (I don't know if he's on here), but I loved the way he setup his roof rack. I've decided to emulate that setup. I just ordered the Lund lock box, and will be putting it on my rack when it gets here. I believe based on my crappy measurements that I've got almost 35" between the bars on the 1st gen. Some sites list the box as 31" wide, others at 32", and amazon says it's 34.5" wide. Either way, I should be good. I'll just get some longer u-bolts, and center it between the bars.

Build is starting.....:D

Edit.... This is what I'm going for.

851fbe63cdd8f53266e4480e87f49126.jpg
 
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reaver

Lockers Installed
Supporting Member
Location
Caldwell, ID
Got my roof box mounted up today. 20200118_160302.jpg

Got some tools and whatnot in it. I'm planning on picking up some traction boards, and mounting them on the lid of the box.

Also, this happened a while ago, but I picked up a Midland mxt275 gmrs radio on black Friday, and mounted it inside the center console. I used a shielded cat6 cable to run a port up, and terminated it in the dash. Alas, I misjudged where to drill the hole initially, but the handset now plugs right into the dash.

20200117_151751~2.jpg
 
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