Rear end sag

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
07S with 62k
I had a 1.5" leveling kit installed in the front so when I tow my small (15') boat the back end looks to be sagging. Recommendations for preventing this?
Vehicle is strictly a fishing machine used 90% on pavement so I am not interested in making her into an off road machine.
 

maillet282

If you bleeding, Imma fix you
Moderator
Location
Ontario Canada
your leaf packs ate probably starting to flatten out. There are a couple bandaid fixes you can tru but the ultimate solution to your problem is a leaf pack replacement and upgrade.
In the mean time you could try helper springs IIRC i used the Helwig 550 helper springs on mine before i replaced the entire leaf packs. Or you could do an add a leaf but those will flatten out at some point as well
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I had the Helwig 550 helpers and the Bilstein 4600 shocks from a Pro4X on mine for a while and it was a huge improvement.

However, vehicles that tow typically are higher in the rear from the factory so they level out during towing. If you're after the level look when not loaded, you might look into a set of the air bags (not air shocks) for the rear so you can adjust the balance once you're loaded.
 

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
Cost is not important- This is my fishing machine! So if I was to get new springs installed what would I be looking for? Not interested in jacking her up- Just prevent the sag.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
The factory springs are notoriously soft. If you want new springs, Alcan's will set you back about a grand.

If you want to go that route, load up the truck like you're going fishing (including the boat) and get it weighed at a commercial weigh station. Most truck stops have them. It'll cost like $15. The rear axle weight will tell you how much over stock you are.

Per @jsexton stock weight is as follows:

Steer: 2340
Drive: 2120
Gross: 4460

Once you know your weight you can calculate how much extra weight capacity you need.

Call Alcan and tell them you want springs with zero lift and +whatever weight you calculated.
 

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
After doing nothing it is time to get Betty some relief! I am thinking of Bilsteins all the way around and OME medium leafs.
Any thoughts from more knowledgeable folks?
 
Last edited:

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va

Argan

Test Drive
Location
arizona
I have the full medium OME kit and I really like it. I do not tow anything, but when I take it off road it performs well. On the road (where I drive it 95% of the time) it is stable and smooth. A little stiff when it does not have a load, but that doesn't really bother me.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Just pulled the trigger on the OME suspension kit with the nitrocharger shocks.
Excellent choice. I have the OME setup on both of my Xterras. Still doing great at >30K and >55K miles respectively, I have only had to replace a few bushings recently.

One vehicle needed shims to correct a vibration, and also needed the LCA's cut out to install camber adjusting bolts. The other one (installed by previous owner) did not require shims nor cutting of the LCA since the bolts weren't seized.

So my point is that you may or may not require new LCA's and shims when installing this suspension. I would check your LCA bolts ahead of time to see if you'll be able to get them out or if you'll have to cut them. Although you can get the alignment "in spec" with the stock LCA bolts, for best handling and even tire wear I would highly recommend that you install the camber adjusting bolts.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Thanks for the advice! I have ordered the bolts to have installed with the lift. Now to find a shop for the install........
Sounds good, have you checked the stock bolts to see if they’re removable? If they’re fused, as mentioned earlier the LCA’s will need to be cut. That means getting new LCA’s will be required.
 

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
Have not checked yet- Its peak steelhead season! So if I need to replace the lca's would it be wise to replace uppers at the same time?
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Have not checked yet- Its peak steelhead season! So if I need to replace the lca's would it be wise to replace uppers at the same time?
I did the OME all around on the 05S and transferred it to the 11P4x after a tree hit me [don't ask] . It is a stiffer ride on the road but better offroad then stock . Anyway I did the 1.5 inch lift shock's in the front and I added a .5" spacer on the top for a total of 2.5" of lift . I had to get the SPC UCA's so I could bring my alignment in to where I liked it. You should be fine with stock if you stay at 1.5" of lift. But if you think you might ever decide to go a little higher I would get those and install now while everything is apart but just to double check contact NISSTEC to make sure.
 

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
Finally had the OME kit installed- They were able to remove the bolts and install new set. After adding the OME kit the front end was an inch lower so back apart it all came to put the 1.5' leveling kit.

Now for tires- My understanding from reading as much as I can find is the largest tire I can fit under there would be 285 75 16" with only doing the melt mod and removing the factory mud flaps?

Tires I'm leaning towards the Ko2's
Wheels will either be DX4 or Black Rhino

Thanks guys I greatly appreciate the responses as this is all new to me and it seems the more I read the more confusing it gets so its great to hear from real people! :D
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Finally had the OME kit installed- They were able to remove the bolts and install new set. After adding the OME kit the front end was an inch lower so back apart it all came to put the 1.5' leveling kit.

Now for tires- My understanding from reading as much as I can find is the largest tire I can fit under there would be 285 75 16" with only doing the melt mod and removing the factory mud flaps?

Tires I'm leaning towards the Ko2's
Wheels will either be DX4 or Black Rhino

Thanks guys I greatly appreciate the responses as this is all new to me and it seems the more I read the more confusing it gets so its great to hear from real people! :D
If you run aftermarket wheels, you'll probably have to trim some metal to run 285/75/16s. They clear on the OE wheels but aftermarket wheels usually have less backspace (offset) and create a wider scrub radius that contacts the rear of the front wheel wells.

Also, be sure the UCAs aren't contacting the coil bucket with the spacers on your front shocks. That can lead to the upper ball joint pulling apart.
 

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
Decided to stick with the factory wheels and had the 285 75 ko2's installed today- No rub from my short test drive but the SLIP light came on rounding a sharp corner at normal speed. Hmmmm
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Decided to stick with the factory wheels and had the 285 75 ko2's installed today- No rub from my short test drive but the SLIP light came on rounding a sharp corner at normal speed. Hmmmm
That's going to be normal. The ABS is based on the circumference of the OE tires (265/75/16) so it sees the added difference between the hub speeds for the larger tires as too much differential and activates the traction control. Gentler lead ins will help but it's just your new norm.
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Decided to stick with the factory wheels and had the 285 75 ko2's installed today- No rub from my short test drive but the SLIP light came on rounding a sharp corner at normal speed. Hmmmm

As Terry said, that's pretty normal on the Xterras when upsizing to 285's. I have heard that the system has some ability to "learn" and this may improve with time but I'm not sure how true that is.

How is your alignment? On our '06 the SLIP light would come on more frequently on turns until I added adjustable camber bolts and improved the alignment. It still does it when cornering, just not as much. And the '09 (which has the same OME lift but stock tire size) doesn't hardly ever do it unless I'm cornering too aggressively.
 

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
As Terry said, that's pretty normal on the Xterras when upsizing to 285's. I have heard that the system has some ability to "learn" and this may improve with time but I'm not sure how true that is.

How is your alignment? On our '06 the SLIP light would come on more frequently on turns until I added adjustable camber bolts and improved the alignment. It still does it when cornering, just not as much. And the '09 (which has the same OME lift but stock tire size) doesn't hardly ever do it unless I'm cornering too aggressively.
 

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outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
That looks pretty good, similar to my numbers.

Still not sure if this is really a thing, but supposedly if you disconnect the battery for a while it will do a reset and that may help. Worth a try, although you will also reset the A/B trip odometers to 0 miles.

When you reconnect the battery, on your first drive you may see the VDC and SLIP lights come on. Find a straight stretch like in a big parking lot or quiet street. Turn off the truck, start it back up with steering wheel straight, drive slowly forward without touching the steering wheel. Should reset those lights.
 

XTERRA2FISH

Bought an X
Location
OREGON
That looks pretty good, similar to my numbers.

Still not sure if this is really a thing, but supposedly if you disconnect the battery for a while it will do a reset and that may help. Worth a try, although you will also reset the A/B trip odometers to 0 miles.

When you reconnect the battery, on your first drive you may see the VDC and SLIP lights come on. Find a straight stretch like in a big parking lot or quiet street. Turn off the truck, start it back up with steering wheel straight, drive slowly forward without touching the steering wheel. Should reset those lights.
Thanks! I will give that a try.
IMG_0246 (1).jpg
 
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