Prime'z X³

Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Which is why I brought the head unit ground to the back where the amp is grounded. But I left it also grounded to the chassis behind the dash. That's why I thought adding a chassis ground to the loop in the back. Kind of...equalize
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Fixored! 0.3 Ohm discrepancy between the grounding block and the body. Added a 10ga from the rear body ground to the block. Same input as the head unit. Zero discrepancy. The only noise now is the background gitters from the Chinesium head unit.

No more whine!
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
So. I need ball joints and front brskes. Pretty badly. And since I'm knee deep in the Mustang, I don't have SAS / gear/ locker money. I'm just going to give the front end a little refresh. I was hoping to hold off on doing anything with the front until it was SAS time. But alas, time to order some parts.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Oh, and I found out I have a leak at the top center of the windshield. So I'm hoping for a large rock so that I don't have to pay to replace it. Need to get new side molding for it so I can have it on hand when it's time.
 
H

hemanrecords

Test Drive
Location
Maryland
Hello @Prime, so when you put this cluster back together what is the drill for putting the needle back on the gas gauge so it reads correctly? There must be a default position. Thanks.
jk
 
Pauly

Pauly

Bought an X
Location
Denver-ish, Colorado
I love the 1st gens - you're doing a fantastic job with this build! A couple notes for you...

1. I know crawler gears is "phase 3" but Clayton has a TX-10 transfer case with 3.9:1 gears and SYE. He's in Lakewood. 3.9:1 TX-10 Transfer Case - Facebook Marketplace
2. I have spare supercharger parts (I think I have a full swap besides manual trans ECU). I've been hoarding them, but it seems like you'd be a worthy candidate... Let me know if you need anything. Would be happy to share (also in Denver).
 
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Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
paulforeman02 said:
I love the 1st gens - you're doing a fantastic job with this build! A couple notes for you...

1. I know crawler gears is "phase 3" but Clayton has a TX-10 transfer case with 3.9:1 gears and SYE. He's in Lakewood. 3.9:1 TX-10 Transfer Case - Facebook Marketplace
2. I have spare supercharger parts (I think I have a full swap besides manual trans ECU). I've been hoarding them, but you'd be a worth candidate... Let me know if you need anything. Would be happy to share (also in Denver).
Click to expand...
You have my attention. We should definitely talk. I have the manual SC ECU.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
hemanrecords said:
Hello @Prime, so when you put this cluster back together what is the drill for putting the needle back on the gas gauge so it reads correctly? There must be a default position. Thanks.
jk
Click to expand...
So what I did was leave the cluster mostly unassembled, drove to the gas station, filled it to the brim and then took it apart and set the needle at the full position in the parking lot. Been perfect ever since.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
So. Bizarre thing happened tonight. Temp gauge shot up to just under the danger zone. Checked the ECU with the OBD scanner. Computer was reporting 180° dead. A few minutes later, it popped right back to the middle where it's supposed to be.

So I need to find out if there's two senders. One for the ECU and one for the gauge.
 
Pauly

Pauly

Bought an X
Location
Denver-ish, Colorado
Prime said:
So. Bizarre thing happened tonight. Temp gauge shot up to just under the danger zone. Checked the ECU with the OBD scanner. Computer was reporting 180° dead. A few minutes later, it popped right back to the middle where it's supposed to be.

So I need to find out if there's two senders. One for the ECU and one for the gauge.
Click to expand...
I second what @Muadeeb said - I have had erratic temp gauge behavior. It's always fixed by replacing the 1-pin sender.

I think it's because the crimp on the end gets loose and rattles/flops around?

I also have some of these at home - I bought extras last time I put in a parts order from RockAuto. Come get one from me for $free dollars if you want.

>>>Sender - Advance Auto <<<
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Truck ADD brain ran hard tonight. I think I have a plan to do the steering wheel swap. 21 Maxima clock spring seems to be pretty ufcking close in size. Provided I can get it onto the column.

The SE clock spring I'm running now has 8 wires.

The Maxima clock spring with the heated wheel option has 17 wires. Still a two plug airbag.

So if I can get the clock spring to work, here's the pitfalls. The schematics for the Maxima show a different layout for the cruise control buttons. It will take an understanding of the ohms reported by the Xterra cruise controls that feed into the cruise module. And will possibly require disassembly of the Max buttons to reroute how the buttons are connected. Still two wires between the two sets. But the impedance needs to be corrected so that the cruise module understands what's coming from the buttons.

The heated wheel, illumination, and stereo controls are easy since there just adds to the existing wiring.

I also have to build the 30 minute timeout with a relay for the heated steering wheel. By brain says to tie it to the rear defroster so thst I don't need another button. If I need the defroster, I need the wheel too.

Yep. ADD brain goes hard.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I think I'm going to preemptively replace the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor before I have everything to install the supercharger. The off idle jitters seems to still be a thing, but once I put my foot in it, it's fine. So I'll prioritize that.

Gotta get (in no particular order) a timing belt, water pump, throttle cable, cam seals, main belts, maybe send the injectors off to be checked out, some random ass coolant hoses, a couple of PCV valves, possibly a smaller pulley, and a weekend to put this together.

I can't thank @Pauly enough for making this a easy reality.

Where do I tap the boost gauge?
 
relentless044

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
Prime said:
Sometime this summer. Dates are TBD, but we definitely going. I need to get back up there.
Click to expand...
I'm game even if its just us but it'd be great to get a few more. shiatty xterra meets nice xterra

As much as I loved the bronco up there......
 
relentless044

relentless044

Silver Slut
Supporting Member
Am also not hell bent on supercharging my x atm.

Having to run premium in a truck that gets 15 mpg at best sounds kinda shiatty, and yeah, its slow, but it'll still be slow when supercharged, it is what it is, at least this way I can do plugs without engine disassembly.

that and money isn't as easy to come by these days
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Always run 91 currently. It makes a huge difference on how the truck does things at altitude. So that's a non issue.

You don't drive one of these for the gas mileage.
 
Nd4SpdSe

Nd4SpdSe

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Quebec & Ontario
Prime said:
Truck ADD brain ran hard tonight. I think I have a plan to do the steering wheel swap. 21 Maxima clock spring seems to be pretty ufcking close in size. Provided I can get it onto the column.

The SE clock spring I'm running now has 8 wires.

The Maxima clock spring with the heated wheel option has 17 wires. Still a two plug airbag.

So if I can get the clock spring to work, here's the pitfalls. The schematics for the Maxima show a different layout for the cruise control buttons. It will take an understanding of the ohms reported by the Xterra cruise controls that feed into the cruise module. And will possibly require disassembly of the Max buttons to reroute how the buttons are connected. Still two wires between the two sets. But the impedance needs to be corrected so that the cruise module understands what's coming from the buttons.

The heated wheel, illumination, and stereo controls are easy since there just adds to the existing wiring.

I also have to build the 30 minute timeout with a relay for the heated steering wheel. By brain says to tie it to the rear defroster so thst I don't need another button. If I need the defroster, I need the wheel too.
Click to expand...

Resistance, not impedance, it's not a speaker. But it's not that bad. I helped a friend with putting in controls when going with an aftermarket steering wheel in his MX-3, which wasn't an issue as we didn't have airbags, but wanted to retain having cruise control. I know it as a MUX system, but you're right, it's just a bunch of resistance values. We used just generic push buttons and generic resistors of the right values and it worked just fine.

I would at first organize a chart of what the resistance of the Xterra button is and what the Maxima button is. From there you can extrapolate what the difference is between the two. If the Maxima's resistance is lower, well that's easy, you just need to put another of the missing value inline to that button. If it's too high, you put a resistance in parallel with it and it'll divide 1/R. You can use an online calculator to figure out what you need to bring it down. However wiring in that parallel resistor may be tricky.


Myself, my old X was a Supercharged 5-Speed and wouldn't of had it any other way. Anyone I know whose done the swap hasn't regretted it.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Cylinder 2 misfire threw a code tonight. Plugs, wires, cap, & rotor will be here this week while I'm out of town for work. Need to do that ASAP before I have everything else to do the supercharger install.
 
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