Prime'z X²

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Went back to the junk yard today to pull the rear calipers from that same Armada. Not as new as the front ones, but still completely serviceable. $60 for $300 worth of calipers and bolts. Win. Also found an OE cup holder insert. Double win.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
ufck it. I'm going to make my own shock mounts. With blackjack and hookers.

Actually I'm going to design some new rear upper shock mounts designed for a 2" body lift. It'll raise the factory upper shock mount above the frame rail as high as it'll go. That way you can run a longer shock. Or in my case, relocate the lower shock mount so that it doesn't hang below the axle tube all while maintaining the factory geometry.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Nice. I'd like to know your reaction to the mod.

What is the lead time on the adapters? Also, do you have a link?
Me too. Gonna do a YouTube thing about it.

Unfortunately not on the link. I got the parts for the adapters from Secret Xer 2 years ago. Spent the afternoon soldering and shrink wrapping.
 

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I rather enjoyed slaving over a soldering iron for a few hours today. Add'l shrink wrap will be here Sunday. Hope to be able to pull the upper and install everything next weekend. Plus fix the leaking valve covers.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
So. I just found out that the locker in my TItan axle is exploded.

Fine.

I need to do something about it. I'm too far in to back out now. I've got ALL the other parts for that axle sitting here at the house. And I got the axle for free. So I assumed that risk. Now. The question.

Do I replace it with a newer factory E-Locker? Can get that for $730 from Summit. Plug/play. All my factory wiring works. Nothing else to do.

OR

Do I get an ARB for $1000, Compressor $250, reworking the wiring, taking the time to install the compressor.

My complication is that I WANT air. It's always been in the plan to have OBA. And I think if I already had it and it was installed, I'd probably go straight to the ARB and just redo the wiring. But the extra $500 and time doesn't sound worth it to me at the moment. BUT. I know the ARB is a better locker.

BUT. That $500 helps pay for the front regear. Which I need in order to finish the swap.

Torn. Torn like an old sweater!
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Actually no. It was a 2-spider. Which surprised me. I was told that axle came out of a 2012. Which would have been a 4-spider. Which was why I wanted it. Of course that was 5 or 6 years ago now. But still.

And as you can imagine, the spider gears grenaded.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yea, a '12 should be a 4 spider. Putting mine back together presently with a 4.

I'm thinking that's the way to go. Plug and play.

Where'd you get yours? I think the 2 spider was just too weak for weight and power of the Titan. My 2-spider in the X has been perfect.
 

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca
I'm thinking that's the way to go. Plug and play.

Where'd you get yours? I think the 2 spider was just too weak for weight and power of the Titan. My 2-spider in the X has been perfect.

Summit. Was going to get it from RR but I had some credit with Summit. I had no failures, just decided to go big during the regear and do it all.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
After much deliberation I've decided to do the E-locker. While the ARB is better, the factory locker will be easier to deal with.

That and my 2-spider in the X has been perfect even with 160k on the ticker. So I don't feel scared about buying a new 4-spider. Summit has it for 739 without the carrier bearings. Which is perfect since I already paid for the master kit with the gears.

Hopefully after all that I still have enough money to get the front regeared.
 

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca
I suggest doing the position switch while you are in there. I wasn't going to do mine until I read that the carrier has to come out to do it.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I suggest doing the position switch while you are in there. I wasn't going to do mine until I read that the carrier has to come out to do it.
Yeah, the one in my truck is spotty. It doesn't fully engage all the time. Do you happen to have the p/n for it?
 

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca
$130! ufck they're proud of that switch. Lemme talk to Nisstec and see if the one in the axle NEEDS replacing.

I put a meter on mine and found it was closing "dirty". The Jeep switch looks identical, by the way. There may be some price advantage there. The Dana parts book doesn't show the switch.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I don't see why the carrier would have to come out to replace the switch. It unscrews from the outside and it just a slider for when the locking ring moves.
 

RM975

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Templeton, Ca
I agree, though seeing the tolerances with it apart, I could see how having the ring gear rigged further left would cause the "hat" on the plunger to catch the lock indication ring before its unthreaded all the way. May be a case by case basis.
 

IM1RU

Skid Plates
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
It's just built stronger. Can stand up to more abuse.

The only rear diffs I've seen granade have been open..... I've seen axles twist on an e locked diff, but the diff was fine....

If you were running a 2 spider version, you're sure as hell not gonna blow the 4 spider version.

I'm glad you decided to go E locker.... I just wish Nissan had offered an E locked front
 
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