Prime'z X²

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Here's the jenga-jam.

Ordering gears this week. Plan is to get the axles built out of the truck. Complete the Titan rear soup to nuts. Get the 205 geared and buy v8 Pathy half shafts.

Swap the Titan rear and 205 in. Leave the front suspension untouched for right now. Sell the matching 3.69 axles.

Once those are gone, use that cash to buy Titan uppers, and the rest of the brake parts for the front.

Then I just need leaves for the rear and shocks. That gives me the ability to sell the Radflo's I have now.

Need to have the geared axles in by winter this year. Then do the suspension and front brakes in the spring.
 

BillySpivitz

Bought an X
Location
Denver, CO
Here's the jenga-jam.

Ordering gears this week. Plan is to get the axles built out of the truck. Complete the Titan rear soup to nuts. Get the 205 geared and buy v8 Pathy half shafts.

Swap the Titan rear and 205 in. Leave the front suspension untouched for right now. Sell the matching 3.69 axles.

Once those are gone, use that cash to buy Titan uppers, and the rest of the brake parts for the front.

Then I just need leaves for the rear and shocks. That gives me the ability to sell the Radflo's I have now.

Need to have the geared axles in by winter this year. Then do the suspension and front brakes in the spring.

I'm going to be a bit behind you in schedule - looking to buy front/rear 4.56 gears this fall, install in M205 off-truck this fall, buy UCA/Shocks/Half Shafts/LCA/everything else in spring, regear M226 on truck in late spring (while removing r180 half shafts and running 2wd for a bit), swap front diff and install front susp shortly thereafter. Then sometime later in 2020 2"body lift for 35's.

Would love to swing by when you do install the front/rear diffs this fall/winter,
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I'm going to be a bit behind you in schedule - looking to buy front/rear 4.56 gears this fall, install in M205 off-truck this fall, buy UCA/Shocks/Half Shafts/LCA/everything else in spring, regear M226 on truck in late spring (while removing r180 half shafts and running 2wd for a bit), swap front diff and install front susp shortly thereafter. Then sometime later in 2020 2"body lift for 35's.

Would love to swing by when you do install the front/rear diffs this fall/winter,
Yeah, I plan to have a mod day once the axles are ready to go in. My neighbor will probably come help, but the more we can get the faster it'll go.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Damn, my head is spinning thinking of all the things I want to copy you on. I'm on a mission to learn as much as I can so if you ever need an extra hand or a beer assistant I'm in Aurora and would be willing to help out when I'm not at work just to absorb some knowledge~

Plus I'd like to ride in a TS'd X to see how much sooner I can talk myself into one.

Hit me up..
940-465-6565

L
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
All masked up. Ready for rust prevention.
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Rust prevention applied

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And some forbidden snacks. Bumper cookies.
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I'll give the paint another 30 minutes or so. Then comes mounting and wiring.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Lights are all mounted. Going to work on the harness tonight. The front amber LEDs will function as combination turn signals and DRLs. They'll be tapped into an ignition wire. The amber LEDs on the side ones will be turn signal only.

All the white LEDs are going to be wired to the "bumper lights" switch in my overhead console.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Found a wire in the IPDM to tap for keyed ignition. Going to get all my measurements today and build my relay harness for the turn signals / DRLs.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Another project done.

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So these amber lights are on whenever the truck is on. These are the DRL function.

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Here is it with the parking lights on.

Then there's the turn signals. This is done with a double pole single throw relay. The DRL circuit is the input, the turn signal circuit toggles the relay and the side LEDs are the other leg of the relay.


Then. Then we have light. Lots of it.
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These are independent off of a switch in my overhead console.

Yes. It's overkill. But I love it.
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Overall, this came together exactly like I wanted it to. The ONLY gripe I have is that the amber in the front pods that I'm using for DRL...I don't feel like they're quite "amber" enough. They look almost like incandescent white with a bit more orange.

Next is the 3 clearance lights in the grill. "raptor lights" if you will. Then I'll put the grill back on.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Did a few things today.

Finally replaced the bad ABS sensor on the rear. So now all systems are normal again. Got really tired of going under tw hood to get 4wd to work in the snow.

Also did this.
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The cap that comes on the CSF radiator is the wrong kind for our coolant system. It holds pressure at the radiator. Our coolant system presurises the overflow and the radiator is just passive.

A while ago I gutted the the CSF cap. But it started to leak because of the way it's constructed.

So I ordered a new set of Nissan caps.

Problem. The difference in construction of the caps means that the Nissan cap had to me modified to fit the CSF radiator. The hold down on the OE cap is too wide to fit into the CSF rad.

So out comes the Dremel.

20200229_185241-1612x763.jpg

I cut down the catch so that it fit the CSF filler neck.

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That said, the drain plug on the radiator is still dripping. So I have to fix that too. Ugh.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
About 3 months ago my clutch safety switch broke. So I had to use the bypass button every singe time to start the truck.

Not anymore.
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I took the switch apart, soldered the contacts together, wrapped the entire thing in electrical tape, and plugged it back into the harness.

The clutch is now bypassed permanently.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
That also lead me to the easy way to do a bypass switch with two wires instead of 18 like the factory one. Granted, it doesn't have the redundancy and safety features of the "momentary until the next time you start the truck" but it'd work.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Went to the junk yard today. Looking for some core parts for the Titan brakes. Kind of won.

Pulled these calipers off of an 05 Armada (bolted one up to my 2012 QX56 knuckles).

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I was going to use these for cores on new calipers.

But then I looked inside.
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These are new calipers! Those pots have almost zero miles on them.

And the rubber on the pins is perfect.
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So I'm just going to clean them up and paint them. $15 junk yard calipers for the win!

Also ordered the hard lines for the Titan rear today. I'm tired of letting things sit. Time to swap this bitch.
 

Xterrorista

Charcoal Briquette
Supporting Member
Location
Denton, TX
Went to the junk yard today. Looking for some core parts for the Titan brakes. Kind of won.

Pulled these calipers off of an 05 Armada (bolted one up to my 2012 QX56 knuckles).

View attachment 16415
I was going to use these for cores on new calipers.

But then I looked inside.
View attachment 16416

These are new calipers! Those pots have almost zero miles on them.

And the rubber on the pins is perfect.
View attachment 16417

So I'm just going to clean them up and paint them. $15 junk yard calipers for the win!

Also ordered the hard lines for the Titan rear today. I'm tired of letting things sit. Time to swap this bitch.
Huh..ask and you shall receive.. disregard my other inquiry/statement.
 
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