PhullD's Build Thread

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Here is a shot of the new place. Built in 1848 allegedly, could be older by a few years, place was pretty much re-done with new plumbing and electrical, new windows etc. etc. but I bought it for the garage. That's the Xterra in it, I could comfortably store 3 and possibly 4 Xterras inside...and that's the reason I bought the place lol! I got this outside of any housing bubbles last December before the bubbles grew into this community so I didn't pay 3-4 times the price like everyone is doing for houses right now....just madness.

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Anyway, so I plan on doing 4 major things to the Xterra this year.

1. Install ARB front locker that has been sitting on a shelf for 2-3 years
2. A new mod to add a grease fitting to the leafspring eyelets (If you have poly bushings and Alcans, you know exactly why!)
3. New lower control arms with limit strap tabs and installing limit straps
4. New Cooper STT Pro M/T's

I am also going to give it a once over for rust prevention/fixing like dropping the rocksliders, going over the frame and all that jazz since the truck will never see another winter again. Thinking about changing the plastic piping around the fender flares to rubber weather stripping too.

I originally tried to find a king cab Frontier in manual as a daily, but that deal fell though. Picked up this bad boy to handle the day to day commuting, 2021 Colorado with the 2.8L Duramax.

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Gets over 600 miles (1050 kms) per tank stock...this Friday did a little "deleting" and everything is much much better now! I wish the Xterra had this engine option, underrated but factory specs were 181-186hp and 370tq. Added 40 hp and 70tq to that. I didn't think I'd like it as much as I do even if it's an auto (eww), but kind of glad the Frontier deal fell through..
 
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PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Some shots of the garage. 24x35, fully insulated with a 9ft door and a urinal in the back lmao! The furnace still works but I'm going to replace it before next winter. Also you can't really see it in the picture, but I got a new vanity plate for the Xterra, it is "OFFROADX".

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PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
If it’s the idler pulley that’s a quick/cheap jog to do. I think I did mine in under 30 minutes.
Be sure to check the A/C compressor clutch pulley. See if it goes away or lessens when you turn the A/C on. Thats usually a good indicator since the front compressor bearing is carrying a good portion of the load when the clutch is engaged.

To add some closure to this, I had play in a pulley, tensioner was weak, belt slipped enough since replacing that it was glazed again and in the end I replaced the belt, tensioner and idler. No more squeals or chirping.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
First run of the year, on a baby trail with a buddy that wanted to see what it was like to offroad in a vehicle. Blew the front diff. I am almost 100% sure it was previously damaged last year on that nightmare trail and I just didn't know it yet. Should have put in the front locker....might have saved myself some trouble lol!

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PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Front diff is complete and installed along with the ARB air locker.

I installed grease fittings into the leaf spring eyelets where the shackles go. No more annual re-assembly and lube to get rid of the pops and creaks!

I ripped out the rear panels and removed all the bolts, the utility tracks, rear weather stripping on the hatch and both rear doors and did a full rust prevention/correction. Also replaced the defective rear weather stripping on the rear doors which I have been living with since new!

Last bit of maintenance is to remove the rocksliders and treat those and any spots on the frame if any.

My camera kept restarting, finally figured out the rear camera or the coax cable going to it are faulty causing the front (main) camera to restart every 3-5 min.

I didn't get to do much this season, but I'll at least be ready for next season.

I'm thinking of MT's for next season, haven't decided which yet.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Front diff is complete and installed along with the ARB air locker.

I installed grease fittings into the leaf spring eyelets where the shackles go. No more annual re-assembly and lube to get rid of the pops and creaks!

I ripped out the rear panels and removed all the bolts, the utility tracks, rear weather stripping on the hatch and both rear doors and did a full rust prevention/correction. Also replaced the defective rear weather stripping on the rear doors which I have been living with since new!

Last bit of maintenance is to remove the rocksliders and treat those and any spots on the frame if any.

My camera kept restarting, finally figured out the rear camera or the coax cable going to it are faulty causing the front (main) camera to restart every 3-5 min.

I didn't get to do much this season, but I'll at least be ready for next season.

I'm thinking of MT's for next season, haven't decided which yet.
I got the Falken Wildpeak MT-01's and there not to noisy since the lug's are a little closer together unlike a true MT or look at the Nitto ridge-grappler's also .
 
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PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
I got the Falken Wildpeak MT-01's and there not to noisy since the lug's are a little closer together unlike a true MT or look at the Nitto ridge-grappler's also .
Going full MT, truck is no longer driven except for trails/camping and for the odd trip around town when I feel "the urge" cause it looks and feels awesome to drive lol! I felt so spiteful this year though, only took it out once on a baby trail and it cost me $4k CAD, now I just LOL at the irony. Next year will be better I am sure.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Couple teaser pictures. By Next weekend the supporting steel should all be in place. I am doing this so I will be able to mount my RTT on top. Underneath the tent will be the solar panel on a slider or something to deploy at camp. I'm going to use aluminum sheets to build the walls and top, the floor will likely be steel with 3/4 plywood for rigidity. If I remember tomorrow I'll grab a few pictures of the front locker stuff and the grease fittings.

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PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Well more bad news. Almost exactly two years ago I installed my radflo piggy back shocks in the rear and I found a small puddle of blue oil today coming from the driver's side shock. I've put maybe 5k miles on them, probably not even and I did 2 trails with them. The truck has been in the garage all winter. I'm quite disappointed to say the least. Now begins the PITA process of trying to find a place to rebuild them because no way in hell I am going to pay $500 to send them to Radflo. I can't even cross the border to avoid the absurd shipping costs...double suck!
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
For $100 I was able to get my shock serviced by a friend of a friend. He says it was probably just dirt in the seal and it caused the leak. It was worth it (due to the low mileage) to just take it apart and clean/recharge it instead of purchasing a rebuild kit. If it does leak again, he will rebuild it for free but I need to get the parts from Radflo. Hopefully the weather holds out so I can take the X to work tomorrow.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Floor of the trailer is next. All the framing is done. Went with aluminum diamond plate for the sides/floor and cover. It was actually cheaper than steel sheets....crazy times!! Once the floor is in and the frame is painted I'll take a few pics before we do the sides and start with the internals like solar/kitchen/water tanks etc..

Also got the P2096 code. O2 registered lean. At 110k km, not much mileage on the truck, I'm hoping it is a loose clamp in the intake or something and not an O2 sensor.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Was working on the trailer, pulled the truck out. Couple hours later the truck won't start. I'm not super great with diagnosing no-start conditions. 100% not the clutch cancel button or whatever you call it, truck has power, terminals seem tight. Security icon goes off when the key is in as so not the key chip.

I don't hear the fuel pump prime.
Starter doesn't turn over.
No engine light.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
So lights and radio work? Honestly I'd try a different battery first. I'd also check the main fuses at the positive battery terminal.
I've checked the fuses, today I pulled out the batteries. I have an Odyssey battery and a Die Hard battery that came with my trailer as spares. I'm going to charge one and hook it up and see if it will start.

It's strange because if it was the starter you would hear the fuel pump prime, if it was the fuel pump the starter would turn over.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Well I think I found the issue. The cable was pulling out of the terminal it looks like...this is after I cut off the terminal but you can still see the jacket looks like it was pulling out. I put in this cheapy terminal I had as a quick fix to test everything. Sure enough it started up no problem. I should mention this was on my second battery, I was still charging my main when I discovered this, so I still have to put everything back in place when I get a new terminal and do another final test.


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PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
For those of you that are interested, this is where I'm at with the trailer so far. Rear swing-out tire carrier, front drops down to access the front, kitchen and slide installed.

To Do still:

1. Aluminum covers (two overlapping in the middle so that I can access everything easily
2. Weather stripping
3. Wire up lights
4. Slides for fridge
5. Plumb water and hot water
6. Plumb dual battery, replace rotten rocker switches
7, Slide out for solar under tent
8. Mount tool boxes over fenders and in the front
9. Install jacks
10. Install awning(s)
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maillet282

If you bleeding, Imma fix you
Moderator
Location
Ontario Canada
For those of you that are interested, this is where I'm at with the trailer so far. Rear swing-out tire carrier, front drops down to access the front, kitchen and slide installed.

To Do still:

1. Aluminum covers (two overlapping in the middle so that I can access everything easily
2. Weather stripping
3. Wire up lights
4. Slides for fridge
5. Plumb water and hot water
6. Plumb dual battery, replace rotten rocker switches
7, Slide out for solar under tent
8. Mount tool boxes over fenders and in the front
9. Install jacks
10. Install awning(s)
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Looks way better than the last time i saw it. Keep up the good work
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Anyone have their rear sway bar kicking around they are willing to part with? I will pay to have it shipped to me. I am doing some experiments.
 

PhullD

First Fill-Up (of many)
Supporting Member
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Still no replies for a rear sway bar. With the shear number of people I know that have removed the rear you would think more would be lying around! I threw mine out in 2016 (was living in a condo) lol

Anyway saw this video and it got me thinking.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcgKbUTQJy8


I will start by stating I have 650 lb springs on radflo coilovers up front right now and Alcans in the rear. The front behaves amazing on-road, no need for a sway bar, but the back likes to lean all the time. I can live with that, but I've kind of been disappointed with how the front of my Xterra behaves off-road.

I thought maybe the 650's were too much, maybe they have too much preload (adjusted for lift) but I don't think that's it because the coliover collar is adjusted up only 1/2". I thought of running the coilovers at the lowest setting but in reality I think the problem is the rear. It articulates so much and so freely the front just goes with it, resulting in excess drama up front, and NO articulation and a tire lifting on occasion where it shouldn't. Especially on uphill obstacles. The worst incident resulting in the truck full on leaning when on a banked obstacle and just sliding down once the rear got involved, whereas had it been controlled and the front articulated it would have been nothing. I love the articulation the Alcans provide, but seems like it is now detrimental, and if that video has any truth to it, I think it is worthwhile to experiment with the possibility of re-implementing a sway bar back there.

Thoughts?

My Avatar pick was with different springs and the stock leaf springs, an AAL and Hellwig helpers maxed out. The Hellwigs kind of kept the rear from just drooping so easily and the front would eat bumps articulating nicely because of it, I really miss that feeling.
 
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