p0505
- Thread starter drbandkgb
- Start date
- Location
- North Alabama
Run through the diagnostic in the EC section of the FSM starting on page 992. My guess though is in order to do the diagnostic that you will have to pull the plenum and if you are gonna pull the plenum might as well have a new IACV in your hand to install. Under the plenum I would use a Nissan IACV rather then an auto parts store knockoff. Going to need a plenum gasket as well.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
This is going to sound weird but terra threw that code a few years ago. I narrowed it down to the iacv. I cleaned it with a tooth brush and the code went away.
(i know, i couldnt believe it either, but true story)
Sent from my brain using technology
(i know, i couldnt believe it either, but true story)
Sent from my brain using technology
- Location
- Morrison, CO
Is it idling funny? Too high? Might have a cracked rubber line going to the IAC, causing it to not bypass the air for the control portion of the idle.
But you have to just about have to take the intake off to check it all out though.
But you have to just about have to take the intake off to check it all out though.
- Location
- Morrison, CO
It has a paper gasket too. But yeah, replacing it would be easier than cleaning it and hoping the code goes away.
Now if you had access to a Consult II or III, then you could test it to see if it was working correctly.
Now if you had access to a Consult II or III, then you could test it to see if it was working correctly.
NMTerras
Suspension Lift
- Location
- New Mexico
I was certainly not advocating cleaning over replacing. Happened to be my best option at the time. Needed to pass an emissions test.
- Location
- Morrison, CO
I know that, I would usually clean it myself. I like to fix 'em. But since he's in a time crunch, then replacing would seem the quickest route. If he had time, then cleaning it and seeing if that fixes it would be best, save him some money.
It's all about the money!
It's all about the money!
- Location
- New Mexico
Will a Consult III work on a first gen? I've been looking at what I think are Chinese C-3 knock-offs and I can't tell which model years it's compatible with. Have you (or anyone else) heard any feedback on the Consult adapters being sold on Ebay? : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Cons..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a74bb9067&vxp=mtr
- Location
- Morrison, CO
Considering that a Consult III costs around $5k (or more), I don't know what that one would actually be. And they're usually only available to dealerships. I'm curious about it now. If it is a working Consult III, for that price, I'd buy one!
I don't know if it will work on a 1st Gen personally, I think it would work on any OBD II compliant Nissan ('96 and newer). I think what it's saying though is that it won't work where the original Consult I worked, but I saw it mention an adapter cable for the previous years ('95 and older OBD I compliant vehicles) with the squarer gray connector.
I dunno. Buy it and tell me!
I don't know if it will work on a 1st Gen personally, I think it would work on any OBD II compliant Nissan ('96 and newer). I think what it's saying though is that it won't work where the original Consult I worked, but I saw it mention an adapter cable for the previous years ('95 and older OBD I compliant vehicles) with the squarer gray connector.
I dunno. Buy it and tell me!
- Location
- New Mexico
It looks like the real Consult III comes with a "hardened" laptop PC while the Ebay knock-offs just include the modules and connectors that attach to a PC (and the software to load on a customer supplied laptop). Seems a little risky but I'll do a little more research and if I don't find anything too negative about them, I'll get one to try out and let you know how it goes...
-Rok
-Rok
- Location
- Morrison, CO
Well, there's a couple of things that I'd check before I spent the money.
What does Stan idle at when he's warmed up?
If you're at idle, no lights on, a/c off, foot off the brake, engine fully warmed up and you turn the a/c on, does the idle go down and stay down or does it idle back up after the a/c turns on? If the idle stays down, the IACV is not working correctly. If it idles up, then it's working correctly.
But if it doesn't idle up, then we still have some checks. You'll need to get in there and disconnect the brown connector to the IACV. Turn the key on and check for battery voltage on the yellow/black wire. If there's no battery voltage there, then there's another connector that needs to be checked for power. It's located on the passenger's side valve cover, near the front. It's the black connector, and you're still looking for battery voltage on the yellow and black wire there. If none, then check fuse 15 in the fuse box inside the cab (by your left knee). That fuse supplies the power for the IACV and the Throttle Position switch. So if it's blown, I'd think you'd have more codes and Stan would be driving bad.
If you have all the powers, and Stan doesn't idle up, then you'll need to also check the resistance at the IACV too. After disconnecting the two wire brown connector, test the continuity of the IACV itself. It should be about 10 ohms. If the resistance is more, then it's bad and needs replaced.
But, if Stan idles up with just the a/c being turned on, then I'd retighten the grounds on the engine. They're the two bolt on the intake manifold next to the main harness as it runs along the side. Just give them both a little grunt tight, nothing massive.
See what happens and we can go from there.
What does Stan idle at when he's warmed up?
If you're at idle, no lights on, a/c off, foot off the brake, engine fully warmed up and you turn the a/c on, does the idle go down and stay down or does it idle back up after the a/c turns on? If the idle stays down, the IACV is not working correctly. If it idles up, then it's working correctly.
But if it doesn't idle up, then we still have some checks. You'll need to get in there and disconnect the brown connector to the IACV. Turn the key on and check for battery voltage on the yellow/black wire. If there's no battery voltage there, then there's another connector that needs to be checked for power. It's located on the passenger's side valve cover, near the front. It's the black connector, and you're still looking for battery voltage on the yellow and black wire there. If none, then check fuse 15 in the fuse box inside the cab (by your left knee). That fuse supplies the power for the IACV and the Throttle Position switch. So if it's blown, I'd think you'd have more codes and Stan would be driving bad.
If you have all the powers, and Stan doesn't idle up, then you'll need to also check the resistance at the IACV too. After disconnecting the two wire brown connector, test the continuity of the IACV itself. It should be about 10 ohms. If the resistance is more, then it's bad and needs replaced.
But, if Stan idles up with just the a/c being turned on, then I'd retighten the grounds on the engine. They're the two bolt on the intake manifold next to the main harness as it runs along the side. Just give them both a little grunt tight, nothing massive.
See what happens and we can go from there.