Ome Suspension Kit With Deaver Aal

Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
Hi Folks,

I did the installation of OME front and rear suspension kit with deaver AAL kit (AAL, UBolts, 2.5 degree Shims, Sway bar relocation) and the Rig is wabbling from the rear now even i can hear the springs sound while turning (not squeaking sound)

Measures Before 26.5 CM front, 30 CM Rear
Measures After 32 CM front, 36 CM rear

I did the alignment for the front but the rear wabbling still there

attached some photos

Any idea?

Thank You

B4B2FBCD-45DF-4D85-8B13-B4F1D28E15CD.jpeg D08FAE44-9D27-43BB-A680-234D6B310094.jpeg 8BD30E1E-0B0A-43D6-8DE6-DD58F72D19A7.jpeg CBA1524F-FE31-4266-B111-DA05F6800882.jpeg DF0C4D20-E713-45B8-8A8C-7EC5930BB5DF.jpeg 3C96B794-D6F9-49CB-A190-71F542CF77F6.jpeg 1E2F449C-232A-4BD8-B6EC-6092D6930F91.jpeg D0394340-CABE-4B1B-9860-796809CA59D2.jpeg 8FDBDB9D-D75C-4A2D-B3B4-37B4C1B0957D.jpeg 57052CC8-ED8F-4E2B-B356-68AEAF888EF6.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Hello and welcome!

You've got a nice kit there, we'll see if we can help you sort out your issues.

Things to check:
Make sure lug nuts are properly torqued.

Check your tire pressures, over or under inflated can cause this issue.

Was the vehicle's weight on the back axle when you torqued the u-bolts and have you retorqued them since you've been driving it? I find it usually takes two times retorquing them to get them settled in.

Hopefully one of these will fix your issue!
 

Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
Hello and welcome!

You've got a nice kit there, we'll see if we can help you sort out your issues.

Things to check:
Make sure lug nuts are properly torqued.

Check your tire pressures, over or under inflated can cause this issue.

Was the vehicle's weight on the back axle when you torqued the u-bolts and have you retorqued them since you've been driving it? I find it usually takes two times retorquing them to get them settled in.

Hopefully one of these will fix your issue!

hi,

thank you for the help and warm welcoming

yes torqued twice on ground after and before driving, also alignment done, tires pressure checked and inflation 35 psi
 

outback97

Wheeling
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, Utah
Those don't look like OME leaf packs. Could it be as simple as you're using OME shocks with a leaf pack that doesn't work well together? I know these are ideally designed to be used together in a matching set, OME with OME.

Also, I'm not sure what's up with the shims... in the picture from the front (fat part) of the shim it looks like it has some voids in it rather than solid metal?
 
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Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
Those don't look like OME leaf packs. Could it be as simple as you're using OME shocks with a leaf pack that doesn't work well together? I know these are ideally designed to be used together in a matching set, OME with OME.

Also, I'm not sure what's up with the shims... in the picture from the front (fat part) of the shim it looks like it has some voids in it rather than solid metal?
This is a full kit from nisstec. Full shocks with coils and deaver add a leaf as i am still using the stock leaf springs and they are still on a good shape

shims are 2.5 degree and they are strong and fixed as per the instructions to coorrect the drive line angel

I don’t know what’s the issue, supposedly all should be fine
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
What exactly do you mean by wobbling?

The OME shocks are valued stiffer than OE, especially the S, X, and SE package shocks. If you mean that you're being pitched back and forth more, that's probably true as the new stiffer shocks are going to translate more of the road to the body.

They are designed to control heavier loads and control those loads on rougher roads. You might be noticing that more now since you were used to how the OE stuff felt.
 

Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
What exactly do you mean by wobbling?

The OME shocks are valued stiffer than OE, especially the S, X, and SE package shocks. If you mean that you're being pitched back and forth more, that's probably true as the new stiffer shocks are going to translate more of the road to the body.

They are designed to control heavier loads and control those loads on rougher roads. You might be noticing that more now since you were used to how the OE stuff felt.
When turning or driving through round about or over bumps the car wabbling from the back also i can hear the springs compression sound while the back of the car wabbling ... even with minor bumps you will feel the instability and springs compression sound
 

Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
What exactly do you mean by wobbling?

The OME shocks are valued stiffer than OE, especially the S, X, and SE package shocks. If you mean that you're being pitched back and forth more, that's probably true as the new stiffer shocks are going to translate more of the road to the body.

They are designed to control heavier loads and control those loads on rougher roads. You might be noticing that more now since you were used to how the OE stuff felt.
Worth to mention also there is minor vibration with 35-40 miles speed
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Did you loosen the bolts on the ends of the springs during lift and retorque them once the lift was on and weight was back on it? I'm wondering if the "spring sound" you describe is the rubber bushings creaking because they are stressed from being torqued at the original ride height and now they are out of that position.
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I wonder if the clunking or "springing" noise is the stiff AAL rubbing on the softer stock springs. I had that same gap in the arc. Did you put any lube on the ends where they connect?

I did the same AAL and shim from Nisstec (different shocks), and my u-bolts kept coming out of torque, and my shim even went crooked at some point. When torquing them down I had them "close," but the only fix was literally undoing and redoing while counting the threads to make them exactly even, otherwise they constantly moved.
 

Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
Did you loosen the bolts on the ends of the springs during lift and retorque them once the lift was on and weight was back on it? I'm wondering if the "spring sound" you describe is the rubber bushings creaking because they are stressed from being torqued at the original ride height and now they are out of that position.
Torqued twice:(
If i pushed the car from the side and trying to wabbling the car on stop position i can hear the springs sound (not squeaking) thr sound like the springs loosely and but they tied very well
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Is it possible that he could have a degree to much in the shim since it was an old leaf pack with an AAL ?? Mine had some vibration when the AAL was put on a NEW OME leafpack and then adding the 140lb's of a new rear bumper cut the vibration at least in half and they do settle in a few week's of driving. I don't know , I'm thinking out loud again !!
 

Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
I
I wonder if the clunking or "springing" noise is the stiff AAL rubbing on the softer stock springs. I had that same gap in the arc. Did you put any lube on the ends where they connect?

I did the same AAL and shim from Nisstec (different shocks), and my u-bolts kept coming out of torque, and my shim even went crooked at some point. When torquing them down I had them "close," but the only fix was literally undoing and redoing while counting the threads to make them exactly even, otherwise they constantly moved.
i think i am facing the same issue that u described and i am afraid that the shims will damage at a point.... the arc of deaver aal much more bigger than stock leafs... and there gaps at the ends (not corners) .... I didn’t put grease but nisstec asked me to put some in the gap ... I didn’t get how u fix thr issue? Could you please explain?
Do u have some little vibration at 35/45 miles speed?
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
I

i think i am facing the same issue that u described and i am afraid that the shims will damage at a point.... the arc of deaver aal much more bigger than stock leafs... and there gaps at the ends (not corners) .... I didn’t put grease but nisstec asked me to put some in the gap ... I didn’t get how u fix thr issue? Could you please explain?
Do u have some little vibration at 35/45 miles speed?

I had a very minor vibration but barely noticeable. I sprayed WD40 silicone variant all over my leafs before putting them back together.

For the u-bolts, I didn't torque them high enough the first time. Stock torque is for the smaller u-bolts, but the ones from Nisstec should have been higher. By the time I retorqued a couple times I think I may have stretched the threads. I ended up getting a flip kit with new bolts, and made sure when I put the nuts on, I hand threaded to the exact same point, then very carefully counted rotations so each one was tightened down exactly the same. Then once snug, torqued each one 5 ft-lbs at a time to make absolutely sure they would end up the same. (Probably overkill, but I was paranoid by that point.) Once torqued to spec, I put a line with a sharpie so I could visually see if there was any change.

As for the difference in arc, mine still have them but no noise.
PXL_20201104_220730064.jpg
 

ffxcores

[fully disclosed]
Supporting Member
Location
Virginia
To be clearer on the problem with mine, I think I tightened down one side farther than the other side too soon, instead of doing one crank on each in criss-crossing intervals.

When one side was tightened down, the plate got slightly crooked, and that was putting pressure laterally so the plate was pressing against the bolts instead of the bolts being free from the plate and putting pressure on the axle and leaf pack. So when I torqued down, that amount of torque was partially being put only on the plate and not actually keeping anything together.

That's my theory of what happened, based on torque being technically to spec but the shim being able to vibrate out of place. And supporting that, the retorque was significantly more off one one side.

IMG_20200723_104441~2.jpg
 

Ahmad Taha

Test Drive
To be clearer on the problem with mine, I think I tightened down one side farther than the other side too soon, instead of doing one crank on each in criss-crossing intervals.

When one side was tightened down, the plate got slightly crooked, and that was putting pressure laterally so the plate was pressing against the bolts instead of the bolts being free from the plate and putting pressure on the axle and leaf pack. So when I torqued down, that amount of torque was partially being put only on the plate and not actually keeping anything together.

That's my theory of what happened, based on torque being technically to spec but the shim being able to vibrate out of place. And supporting that, the retorque was significantly more off one one side.

View attachment 15924
Ok the torque on the ubolt now around 100 pounds and nisstec recommend 87 pound ,,, i still have spaces at edges between the springs and we fill it with grease and that’s worked as no sound there anymore and wabbling almost gone !! Not sure if this will remain too long?!

i still have vibration at 35/45 miles speed however the 2.5 degree shims still there and installed!! Not sure what next
 
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