OffRoad/P4X Axle into Automatic X/S/SE

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I'm on the lookout for a M226 with 3.69 gears but if I remember correctly I need the drive shaft from an automatic OffRoad or P4X. Although I think I read I could use my factory shaft (07 S Automatic) since I'm lifted at least 2" in the rear.

I also need the vehicle side connector for the locker as well as the wheel speed sensors from the M226.

*EDIT* 8/18/20

Swap is done. I've been running the M226 with my stock "S" driveshaft for about 4 months now without issue. I am running the Timbren rear bump stops/ helper springs and Alcan rear springs but I haven't noticed any issues with the driveshaft length.
 
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TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Well this project has come and gone.

I have 2" of lift and was able to reuse my OE "S" rear shaft without issue.

Everything else was bolt in, even my rear caliper brackets and brakes.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Hey TerryD , glad you had a decent vacation !! As you know I ordered my rear bumper which eventually mean's a front bumper will be on order so my thought's would be with all the extra weight that maybe I should re-gear ? maybe up to 373's. How do I find out what axle and gear's [ 313's ? ] do I have right now in my stock 05 S . I really have no basis for comparison or know if the previous owner might have switched gear's already. Although this would be next year before it happen's I like to think ahead . Thanx as all-way's for the use of your knowledge !!;)
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Hey TerryD , glad you had a decent vacation !! As you know I ordered my rear bumper which eventually mean's a front bumper will be on order so my thought's would be with all the extra weight that maybe I should re-gear ? maybe up to 373's. How do I find out what axle and gear's [ 313's ? ] do I have right now in my stock 05 S . I really have no basis for comparison or know if the previous owner might have switched gear's already. Although this would be next year before it happen's I like to think ahead . Thanx as all-way's for the use of your knowledge !!;)

I would be willing to bet the farm you're still 3.13. It's VERY rare that anyone just changes ratio in a 4wd due to cost. A shop would want $3-5k to regear an X, and sourcing gearing for them is difficult at best.

The most common thing would be hunt up a set of Pro4X diffs from a salvage yard. I use www.car-part.com to find most of my parts. It's where I found my 3.69 geared Pro4X diffs. They cost me right at $1k and were about 5hr from home.

I'm REALLY happy with my 3.69s right now. It made a huge difference in the power this thing has.

There's also the option of going with the 3.54 M226/R180 from a MT X, S, SE Xterra. Looks like a rear sells for under $500 and most of the time the yard will have the front R180 to match from the same vehicle if you ask. It's usually really cheap to get as well since they will already have the vehicle on the rack to pull the rear. The 3.54 diffs don't have the locker but you can add a lunch-box automatic locker for under $500 easy enough.

I'm on the fence as to which way is better. I like the electric locker for my DD use and I like the 3.69s, but as this thing slowly drifts toward a trail rig, the cheaper axle without the electronics and odd-ball-hen's-teeth axle shaft has a certain allure to it.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
Is there a way to identify an X with the m226/r180 diff's vs the one's that I have ? When I look on my door sticker my axle is ca31 if that mean's anything. when I looked around I did see more locker option's some auto lock and other's with out air for the 226/180. Do the year's of the Xterra model's have something to do with it ? Thanx Eddie........
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
The Second Generation Xterra only came with a factory e-locker. The air locker is aftermarket from ARB and they make them to fit all the differentials the X was available with.

The Automatic transmission Offroad and Pro4x came with the e-locker and 3.36 gears in a M226.

The Manual Transmission Offroad and Pro4x came with the e-locker and 3.69 gears in a M226.

The Manual X, S, and SE packages have an open differential M226 in 3.54 gearing.

The Automatic X, S, and SE came with an open diff C200K with 3.13 gears.
 

TheCrabby1

I Smell Fishy
Supporting Member
Location
Burtonsville, Md
MT = Manual tranny =I had a brain fart and it didn't register; Sorry :( I think I could get away with the 3.54 gearing since not towing anything and would only be carrying gear for 1-2 people :cool: but maybe I should get the tow hitch added to bumper for Chug's liquor trailer :eek:;) or Zack's beer wagon !!
 

Plucky

Test Drive
I am in the process of gathering the parts to swap an M226 into a 2013 Xterra S. I am maintaining stock height. Will the driveshaft need replacing also? I have read some reports that using the original driveshaft will cause the rear seal on the transfer case to eventually leak, but other folks report no problems.

Getting the parts has been more of an adventure than I anticipated! The rear diff was really hard to find, the one I eventually got came with a leaking seal on the driver's side, which was not obvious until the rotor was off. The ABS sensor wires had been cut, so they will probably need replacing (unless I can get lucky splicing them).

I didn't need all that pesky money anyway...
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
I am in the process of gathering the parts to swap an M226 into a 2013 Xterra S. I am maintaining stock height. Will the driveshaft need replacing also? I have read some reports that using the original driveshaft will cause the rear seal on the transfer case to eventually leak, but other folks report no problems.

Getting the parts has been more of an adventure than I anticipated! The rear diff was really hard to find, the one I eventually got came with a leaking seal on the driver's side, which was not obvious until the rotor was off. The ABS sensor wires had been cut, so they will probably need replacing (unless I can get lucky splicing them).

I didn't need all that pesky money anyway...

I think you'll need the driveshaft at stock height. Mine is close at nearly 3" of lift.

They aren't as hard to find as the axles but you'll need one from an Automatic like your's because the MT driveshafts are different than the Automatic with C200k or M226.
 

Plucky

Test Drive
I figured as much. I found one for $250 from the same place I got my rear differential (probably from the same truck), I will order it on Monday. I'll save the original driveshaft for the (inevitable) lift in the future. The mod bug bites hard!

The adventure will really begin when I have gathered all of the parts together and start the project. I haven't done any wrenching in 25+ years, so I'm a bit terrified by the whole thing...
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
Honestly these are pretty easy to deal with a far as the lift and suspension goes. The engine is quite a bit more complex but only if you're not familiar with DOHC.

I will say the transmission and t-case are built pretty stout. There's 14 bolts on the mating flange. I just finished replacing my t-case. Hopefully the 30k mile unit will run the same 200k my original did.
 

Plucky

Test Drive
A couple questions...

Any way to test the e locker to see if it is working properly when the differential is off the vehicle? I want to be sure t is working before I install everything.

Do the springs need to be removed to do the swap? I've seen sites that claim that the job can be done with the springs in place, while others claim it is impossible to do without removing the springs. Seems like it would make the job simpler to remove them.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
You can just pop the shackles off but you'll want to make sure the ABS wires and brake hoses are loose first.

I doubt you could swap them with OE springs anyways though. I have Alcans and didn't have to take them loose.

You can supposedly test the locker by touching the two wires for the locker to a 9V battery. The vehicle diagram shows which is power and which is ground. Make sure you get them right because the indication switch is back there too.
 

Plucky

Test Drive
The diff swap is complete, thank you all for your advice and encouragement. The only snag was that the rear output seal on the differential began leaking after a week or so, but I half expected that to happen from what i have read on the forums, so I was not disappointed or surprised. I should have just done it when I did the swap. Still need to have an alignment done, and the odometer calibrated!

I have yet to test it on any trails. I haven't noticed any real differences in performance on the highway.
 

Plucky

Test Drive
3.36. If at some time in the future I decide to go with a lift and big tires, I'll have it re-geared lower. Right now it is perfect for what I normally do, but as I get more experience I might get more adventurous. I need to find some folks to wheel with.
 
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