New Sas Kit

Un4seen4

Test Drive
So some wisdom for those who are looking at doing this and some things I have learned with the Yota pickup crawler which is SAS'd

-This is not a plug and play kit no matter how much they say otherwise. You will have to do lots of fab work to get it to work right and even then you will have to tweak and tune and dial it all in. I am having to do this with a leaf sprung SAS.

things to consider:
:you will have to design and adapt steering.
:mess with the ABS
:breaks will need to be adapted and modified to run the bigger ford calipers
:you will have less ground clearance with a D60 w/ 37s than with a D44 w/ 33s
:you'll have to re-gear the axles
:lockers are not cheep
:coil-overs are not cheep
:custom drive shaft again not cheep
:you are going to get really really tall ie: higher center of gravity

Cost break down of major components:

4500-kit
2000-axles -found on FB MP
300-D60 gears
300-S10.5 gears
2000- 2x ARBs
1000- coil overs

-10K+ easy thats not including tires



-Our ABS dose not play nice with anything even its own system. Many of you who live out east and go in water frequently know what I'm talking about. The ABS system really limits on what you can do with the drive line on the truck and make the overall computer happy. Even if the dana60 speed sensors are "compatible" its still not going to be 100% and which then screws with other stuff.

-Gears get over rocks and we have one option for T case gears: an Atlas which in reality because of the cost and the computer/ABS problem the Atlas is really not an option. O and you'll have to get an adaptor for it ;) There is a reason why that 1980s shiat box Yota thats like 3 grand and has a 90HP 22re keeps up with the LS swapped JKU on 40s: a 217:1 crawl ratio.

-if you want to go over 35s or seriously wheel with 35s you are probably going to want to get a sterling 10.5 for the rear. Dana 44s are more than strong enough for 35/37s but we don't have the option of chromoly axle shafts which a stock S10.5 axle shaft is more than enough for 37s.

-Bead locks are amazing on the trail but they are costly for aluminum and supper heavy for steal weld on ones and you pretty much are forced to upgrade axle shafts due to the added traction and even then its not a promise you won't break or you'll move the breakpoint to another spot.


The second gen Nissan community is really spoiled. Bang for its buck a Titan swap is just amazing its all bolt in and used just about all factory parts. ~10" of travel on factory geometry is just insane for an IFS, there is a reason why TC doesn't make a long arm kit for a titan/X/Frontier, there is no reason. There is no reason for custom fab or anything like the Yota guys or other brands do. Lots of us have no experience or concept to what goes into a solid axle swap, I know I didn't when I got the pickup and I'm just trying to convey the scope of what is involved.

I would absolutely love to SAS my or Mrs. Unseen's X but the cost/benefit is just not there for me in my mind, Ive gone around for hours with Bill, Greg and other people about this and I personally just can't see it.


but someone do it so I can live vicariously though you haha!
 
Last edited:

JeffPro4x

Hot Pipe
Super Moderator
Supporting Member
Location
Glenside, PA
Yeah. I definitely need to see it in person before making any decisions. From the videos I've seen, there doesn't seem to be much more travel than a TS. But it gets rid of our week rack and pinion. That's a plus
 

jsexton

Wheeling
Location
Lewis Center, OH
So some wisdom for those who are looking at doing this and some things I have learned with the Yota pickup crawler which is SAS'd

-This is not a plug and play kit no matter how much they say otherwise. You will have to do lots of fab work to get it to work right and even then you will have to tweak and tune and dial it all in. I am having to do this with a leaf sprung SAS.

things to consider:
:you will have to design and adapt steering.
:mess with the ABS
:breaks will need to be adapted and modified to run the bigger ford calipers
:you will have less ground clearance with a D60 w/ 37s than with a D44 w/ 33s
:you'll have to re-gear the axles
:lockers are not cheep
:coil-overs are not cheep
:custom drive shaft again not cheep
:you are going to get really really tall ie: higher center of gravity

Cost break down of major components:

4500-kit
2000-axles -found on FB MP
300-D60 gears
300-S10.5 gears
2000- 2x ARBs
1000- coil overs

-10K+ easy thats not including tires



-Our ABS dose not play nice with anything even its own system. Many of you who live out east and go in water frequently know what I'm talking about. The ABS system really limits on what you can do with the drive line on the truck and make the overall computer happy. Even if the dana60 speed sensors are "compatible" its still not going to be 100% and which then screws with other stuff.

-Gears get over rocks and we have one option for T case gears: an Atlas which in reality because of the cost and the computer/ABS problem the Atlas is really not an option. O and you'll have to get an adaptor for it ;) There is a reason why that 1980s shiat box Yota thats like 3 grand and has a 90HP 22re keeps up with the LS swapped JKU on 40s: a 217:1 crawl ratio.

-if you want to go over 35s or seriously wheel with 35s you are probably going to want to get a sterling 10.5 for the rear. Dana 44s are more than strong enough for 35/37s but we don't have the option of chromoly axle shafts which a stock S10.5 axle shaft is more than enough for 37s.

-Bead locks are amazing on the trail but they are costly for aluminum and supper heavy for steal weld on ones and you pretty much are forced to upgrade axle shafts due to the added traction and even then its not a promise you won't break or you'll move the breakpoint to another spot.


The second gen Nissan community is really spoiled. Bang for its buck a Titan swap is just amazing its all bolt in and used just about all factory parts. ~10" of travel on factory geometry is just insane for an IFS, there is a reason why TC doesn't make a long arm kit for a titan/X/Frontier, there is no reason. There is no reason for custom fab or anything like the Yota guys or other brands do. Lots of us have no experience or concept to what goes into a solid axle swap, I know I didn't when I got the pickup and I'm just trying to convey the scope of what is involved.

I would absolutely love to SAS my or Mrs. Unseen's X but the cost/benefit is just not there for me in my mind, Ive gone around for hours with Bill, Greg and other people about this and I personally just can't see it.


but someone do it so I can live vicariously though you haha!

so much passion.
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
It looks like a nice setup. There's a ton of time in doing something like this and I'm glad they did it.

I had messaged them and they said minimum ride height (measured under the frame behind the front wheel wells) is around 19".

I would personally be happy with a JKU D30/D44 out front and a ride height around 3-4" of lift area. 2nd Gen SAS rigs are too tall for my taste.
 

Un4seen4

Test Drive
It looks like a nice setup. There's a ton of time in doing something like this and I'm glad they did it.

I had messaged them and they said minimum ride height (measured under the frame behind the front wheel wells) is around 19".

I would personally be happy with a JKU D30/D44 out front and a ride height around 3-4" of lift area. 2nd Gen SAS rigs are too tall for my taste.

with how heavy Xs are wed snap a 30s axle shafts like a twig, they are only like 27 spline or something

And I would whole heartedly agree. Particularly after watching them in Moab for years now. Sort of like a drop bracket and 37's is WAY too tall.

yep! heck my pickup has the same roof line as the X and its on 37s
 

jsexton

Wheeling
Location
Lewis Center, OH
It looks like a nice setup. There's a ton of time in doing something like this and I'm glad they did it.

I had messaged them and they said minimum ride height (measured under the frame behind the front wheel wells) is around 19".

I would personally be happy with a JKU D30/D44 out front and a ride height around 3-4" of lift area. 2nd Gen SAS rigs are too tall for my taste.

The frame is the problem for ride height and SAS on these, not the d60. And the m205 is actually a d40. Dana/spicer makes the m205 for nissan.
 

Un4seen4

Test Drive
going off what @jsexton said: (in general terms)

R180: with a 7" ring gear
D30: 27 spline axle shafts with a 7 1/8" ring gear
Toyota 8": 30 spine axle shafts with an 8" ring gear
M205: 8" ring gear
D44: 30 spline axle shafts with an 8.5" ring gear
Ford 9": 31 spline with a 9" ring gear
Dana 60: 35 spline with a 9 3/4" ring gear
 

TerryD

Total Tease
Supporting Member
Location
Covington, Va
going off what @jsexton said: (in general terms)

R180: with a 7" ring gear
D30: 27 spline axle shafts with a 7 1/8" ring gear
Toyota 8": 30 spine axle shafts with an 8" ring gear
M205: 8" ring gear
D44: 30 spline axle shafts with an 8.5" ring gear
Ford 9": 31 spline with a 9" ring gear
Dana 60: 35 spline with a 9 3/4" ring gear
By my count a R180 is 27 spline as well.
 
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