Members running 35" tires

AdventureRider81

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Savannah, GA
Another popular thread from that other site. Would like to start it fresh on here now.


Here's what's up. Essential this is a roll call for all who are running tire sizes from 34.5 to 35.5 tires. This is for other members that are interested in going to 35" to reference easily and understand what it takes.

The "loose" guidelines.

1. Tire size 34.5" to 35.5"
2. Tell us the lift your running
3. Tell us how much you trimmed
4. Provide us the wheels you used and provide the offset
5. What gear ratio your using
6. Let us know if there is any rubbing like frame rub, etc.
7. Have fun. Remember this is a reference for others whom maybe interested in a set up like yours. Please provide factual information and photos.

Note: post your info and photos has a reply to this thread and I will update the O.P. has we go along.

Time to get started. Here are some that I know are on 35's now. Hopefully they post a pic.

AdventureRider
jsexton
Kuma (Sold Truck)
@PhullD
@AlbatrossCafe
@Maxterra
@GPD605X
Prime
@Smileyshaun
bmrandolph1s
 
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AdventureRider81

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Savannah, GA
20190820_190403.jpg 20190820_190420.jpg 20190706_155338.jpg

Suspension Lift -
Front - Titan swapped (Radflo's set to spec/ approx 4.25" lift)
Rear - 4" over Alcan packs. PRG adjustable shackles set to middle hole (approx 4.25" lift)

Body Lift - 4x4 parts 1" body lift kit (Not necessary since I cut the fenders anyway).

Fenders - Cut 1" on top. Bottom cut 2.5" tappered from 1". Small grind, bend to pinch welds to fit whell well liners.

Wheels - Black Rhino Duggar 17"x8.5" (+10 offset) Note: Shaved brake calipers to get them to fit.

Tires - Goodyear Ultraterrain 35X12.50r17 (Actual 34.8" x 12.50)

Gear Ratio - Rugged Rocks 4:10 gear set with master install kit.

Rubbing - No, rear is very, very close on the quarter plastics. Front clears no problem.
 
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Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Copper STT Pros
315/70/17

OE Titan 17x8.5 wheels

Stock 3.69 gears now. Going to 4.56s soon.

1.5" spacers to convert the lugs to 6x5.5

2" lift with standard length Radflo's and PRG lift shackles.

2" body lift.

Melt mod like a crazy person.

Front fenders cut back to the edge of the sliders.

There wasn't any rubbing until one of my fender liners broke and now needs to be replaced.

I want to go bigger next time. But I don't know how.

It's completely streetable. 6th gear is useless on the road. Definitely feels undergeared off road.
 
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jsexton

Need Bigger Tires
Supporting Member
Location
Lewis Center, OH
Bunch of us are on 35’s.

Titan swap, 2” BL, 315/75r16 nitto trail grapplers. 4.56 in an automatic. 4” Alcans with PRG shackles on lowest setting. 2” wheel spacers on the rear axle.

Never rub the front (but come very very close to rubbing the top of the wheel well). Rub slightly in the back at full stuff (plastic to the rear of the wheel well). Not enough to change anything to fix it. Not an issue.

Cut to the inner line, folded to the outer line
V4bBIBo.jpg


CvMOkZp.jpg
 

xdblduty

Test Drive
Good thread, a possible goal of mine. Should the minimum gearing be 4:10 and with the added weights front locker required?
 

AdventureRider81

Bought an X
Supporting Member
Location
Savannah, GA
Good thread, a possible goal of mine. Should the minimum gearing be 4:10 and with the added weights front locker required?

I like the 4:10s. Definitely would not recommend 4:56's. I think 3:90s would be perfect for folks that drive a lot on the highway. Doing the math. 3:78 gearing would be equal to a stock P4X auto gearing for 35's.

I prefer open front diff. I would save that money and put towards a winch instead (if you don't have one). Front lockers rarely are needed and when they are, it comes with significant cv breakage possibilities. 1 pro the locker is it replaces the stock carrier with a stronger one. That's awesome, just couldn't justify the price for me. Rear locker and winch can get you anywhere.
 
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xdblduty

Test Drive
I like the 4:10s. Definitely would not recommend 4:56's. I think 3:90s would be perfect for folks that drive a lot on the highway. Doing the math. 3:78 gearing would be equal to a stock gear for 35's.

I prefer open front diff. I would save that money and put towards a winch instead (if you don't have one). Front lockers rarely are needed and when they are, it comes with significant cv breakage possibilities. 1 pro the locker is it replaces the stock carrier with a stronger one. That's awesome, just couldn't justify the price for me. Rear locker and winch can get you anywhere.

Thanks! Good point, and yes I’ve used my Warn once already, such a valuable tool, good insurance esp. when wheeling solo.
 

AustinFound

Bought an X
Location
Austin, TX
Copper STT Pros
315/70/17

OE Titan 17x8.5 wheels

Stock 3.69 gears now. Going to 4.56s soon.

1.5" spacers to convert the lugs to 6x5.5

2" lift with standard length Radflo's and PRG lift shackles.

2" body lift.

Melt mod like a crazy person.

Front fenders cut back to the edge of the sliders.

There wasn't any rubbing until one of my fender liners broke and now needs to be replaced.

I want to go bigger next time. But I don't know how.

It's completely streetable. 6th gear is useless on the road. Definitely feels undergeared off road.

Prime!

You're going to love 4.56 over 3.69. I just regeared my manual X to 4.56 (still on 33's, gonna wear them out before I upsize). Regearing made me fall back in love with this truck!

-Craig
 

AustinFound

Bought an X
Location
Austin, TX
Bunch of us are on 35’s.

Titan swap, 2” BL, 315/75r16 nitto trail grapplers. 4.56 in an automatic. 4” Alcans with PRG shackles on lowest setting. 2” wheel spacers on the rear axle.

Never rub the front (but come very very close to rubbing the top of the wheel well). Rub slightly in the back at full stuff (plastic to the rear of the wheel well). Not enough to change anything to fix it. Not an issue.

(Picture removed for space/bandwidth savings)
(Picture removed for space/bandwidth savings)

Cut to the inner line, folded to the outer line

That is a super clean fender trim! is the inside line the cut line, and the outside line the fold-over line?

-Craig
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Prime!

You're going to love 4.56 over 3.69. I just regeared my manual X to 4.56 (still on 33's, gonna wear them out before I upsize). Regearing made me fall back in love with this truck!

-Craig
If I can ever get the money together to buy the parts, I'll be golden. Heh.
 

jsexton

Need Bigger Tires
Supporting Member
Location
Lewis Center, OH
That is a super clean fender trim! is the inside line the cut line, and the outside line the fold-over line?

-Craig

Thanks.

Yep, inside is cut and outside was fold. Used a pneumatic flanging tool before I folded. Super easy but it does crack the paint. Hit it with some sandpaper real quick and painted the corner black.
 

bmrandolph1s

Test Drive
Location
Joplin
Hi all. Long time listener 1st time caller here. When noobs asks questions they usually get blasted with "there's already a forum for that dummy". So I'm trying to avoid that and I think I found the right forum. Another common blast is "slow down and do your research". Well I might be a noob to Xterras, but I'm not a total noob to building and off roading. My 2 previous rigs were Tacomas, the last of which was a decent overland build. I attached a pic to try to gain a little street cred lol. But I have awaken to realize how amazing Xterras are, especially when you compare performance to $$. So be gentle please.
IMG-0331.JPG

Has anyone heard of anyone running 35x12.50 tires on a rim that has so much offset that wheel spacers were not needed? Or are wheel spacers just unavoidable? I would really like to not use wheel spacers if at all possible.

I just picked up a 2014 Pro 4X 6 speed this week. My trusted local 4x4 shop has already been working with Nisstec and is set to order the following:

Titan Swap KIT:
650 Coil Spring Rate
Coil over Diam. 2.5"
Rear Shock 3-3.5
Extended bump stops - no
Adjustable Camber Bolts - yes
Rear shackle -blk
Rear Leaf - Alcan Leaf 0-199
Front Diff/CV - R180
SPC UCA
Coil spring color - silver

I think I'll also have to do a body lift to get high enough for 35"s and I'm fine with tons of trimming. 35"s are the goal. Believe it or not, they actually talked me down from 37"s. I was all in, emotionally and financially ready for a SAS and lift to fit 37"s. But they said from the research they did, they just couldn't recommend 37"s as sustainable long lasting build. I was a little disappointed, but I got over my tiny heart syndrome and have now come to terms with 35"s.

Anyone have any other suggestions on building to 35"s if you could do it all over again from scratch?
 
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IM1RU

Sliders
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Anyone have any other suggestions on building to 35"s if you could do it all over again from scratch?
You'll need Gears. 4.10's at the very minimum, but you really should go 4.56's, and if possible you should change out the Front Diff to the M205... Nisstec has one already built and ready to ship with 4.56's (as per their website)

And your 4x4 shop is right... 37's really don't work on the X.... and unless you're building a Moab trailer queen, you don't need 'em
 

bmrandolph1s

Test Drive
Location
Joplin
You'll need Gears. 4.10's at the very minimum, but you really should go 4.56's, and if possible you should change out the Front Diff to the M205... Nisstec has one already built and ready to ship with 4.56's (as per their website)

And your 4x4 shop is right... 37's really don't work on the X.... and unless you're building a Moab trailer queen, you don't need 'em
4.56 gears it is then! Thanks man!
 

bmrandolph1s

Test Drive
Location
Joplin
View attachment 10476 View attachment 10475 View attachment 10274

Suspension Lift -
Front - Titan swapped (Radflo's set to spec/ approx 4.25" lift)
Rear - 4" over Alcan packs. PRG adjustable shackles set to middle hole (approx 4.25" lift)

Body Lift - 4x4 parts 1" body lift kit (Not necessary since I cut the fenders anyway).

Fenders - Cut 1" on top. Bottom cut 2.5" tappered from 1". Small grind, bend to pinch welds to fit whell well liners.

Wheels - Black Rhino Duggar 17"x8.5" (+10 offset) Note: Shaved brake calipers to get them to fit.

Tires - Goodyear Ultraterrain 35X12.50r17 (Actual 34.8" x 12.50)

Gear Ratio - Rugged Rocks 4:10 gear set with master install kit.

Rubbing - No, rear is very, very close on the quarter plastics. Front clears no problem.
Did you have to use wheel spacers with that offset? I don’t see where you mention spacers though?
 

IM1RU

Sliders
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Did you have to use wheel spacers with that offset?
The only reason spacers are needed, is to approximate the track width of the front on the rear. T swap gets you 3" wider each side on the front, so most guys run 2" spacers on the rear. Other than that spacers are just for looks.
 

bmrandolph1s

Test Drive
Location
Joplin
The only reason spacers are needed, is to approximate the track width of the front on the rear. T swap gets you 3" wider each side on the front, so most guys run 2" spacers on the rear. Other than that spacers are just for looks.
Ahhh that’s what I thought but I couldn’t find a definite explanation. Thank you!
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I wouldn't count on finding matching gears unless you get a whole truck for scrap. I'll say, doing the rear is a lot of work. A lot. Spacers are definitely easier. And it changes the lug pattern. So you need new wheels. It's a lot.
 

IM1RU

Sliders
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
A Titan rear axle has 4.10 gears right? And that is compatible with no issues with my 6 speed?
No on the 4.10's, nothing came stock with 4.10's. Any axle or front Diff you get will need to be re geared. And since you are a manual, and wanting 35's, you gotta go 4.56, or you're gonna hate it.

And to what @Prime said, if you put in a Titan axle, you gotta run different wheels and brakes, which means different spindles and brakes up front too, then you need the master cylinder as well. And to be fair it's a cool thing, but so is a VK swap.

Spend the $100 on spacers and be done with it.
 

bmrandolph1s

Test Drive
Location
Joplin
Lift has arrived as well as wheels and 35” Nittos. COVID supply chain issues be damned!


Now just waiting on my install date of 30 Aug. So pumped!!

But does anyone know anywhere that I can find everything needed to swap gears on my Pro 4X 6 speed. Like gears, carriers, everything. I’ve asked Nisstec several times but they don’t return my emails. I’ve never seen a business so adverse to making money 890EE542-76BE-49E1-ADAA-3BAD61A1BB93.jpeg0AD59FB0-7692-4A51-B467-51E769149987.jpeg
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
RockAuto is a decent source for gears. They sell Yukon under the American Standard Gear name and you can usually get any ratio you want at very reasonable prices. Carriers and install kits check with SteeveO at RuggedRocks.com.

As far as Nisstec goes, they're much better to deal with over the phone or just ordering off the website.
 

jsexton

Need Bigger Tires
Supporting Member
Location
Lewis Center, OH
revolution makes great install kits for the front m205 for very reasonable $$. I can't remember if they make them for the m226 or not. have to look them up under titan.

The yukon 4.56 m205 gears are a very tight fit when mixed with an ARB. Need to trim about 3/16" off the passenger side adjuster to get them in.
 

bmrandolph1s

Test Drive
Location
Joplin
5F4966BA-67ED-4BC1-80BC-A85EE5BE656C.jpeg2011 Titan M205 front diff carrier secured. Rugged Rocks 4.56 gears on order. Lift, gears, and tires all go on in 3 weeks, I’m so pumped! Also Coastal Off Road tire carrier is getting powder coated right now!

C1911A58-A418-45A7-B5B9-6D1D7DF62ED1.jpeg
 

IM1RU

Sliders
Supporting Member
Location
SLC, UT
Are you planning on cutting your fenders on the top? Or do you have some really big bump stops?

I'm asking because I don't see a body lift, and you're T-swapped with 35's, that generally requires a body lift, or fender cutting. I'm T-swapped and running 33's and my fenders have been self clearanced a few times. If ya'll hit a good bump those 35's are going to mash the hell out of those fenders.
 

bmrandolph1s

Test Drive
Location
Joplin
I’ll have to check with my shop. I told them to order whatever lift was necessary to run 35”s. I’m not positive if they got a body lift or not, and I don’t think they got a lot of help from Nisstec. And I won’t be home for about another month to inspect myself. I may have to add a body lift.
 
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